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I'm working on building my theater room. I picked up the 5040 refurbished. I'm working on dialing it in.

I apologize for asking such a noobish question, but I can't figure out how to search this thread for the life of me in the new forum format. What are the current recommended settings for best PQ? I plan to tweak myself, but wanted to know where to start.

Thanks!

20200808_135716.jpg
 

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I'm working on building my theater room. I picked up the 5040 refurbished. I'm working on dialing it in.

I apologize for asking such a noobish question, but I can't figure out how to search this thread for the life of me in the new forum format. What are the current recommended settings for best PQ? I plan to tweak myself, but wanted to know where to start.

Thanks!
I use Adam's here - Projector Calibration (6040UB) - Second Look
 

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So I got my 3D glasses, synced them up and threw in a few 3D movies (Prometheus, Final Destination 3D, RP1) to test it out. I'll be honest, I liked the 3D of my old Optoma DLP better. It's a bit hard to describe, but it just seemed like the 3D on the Epson was a bit more flat. It still looks pretty good, and the popout effects in Final Destination were very evident, but the depth (looking through a window) effect seemed better on my DLP. Anyone else feel the same?
If you are using my setting I sent you, all 3D should look fantastic...they do to me. I have a DLP 65 incher in the den and the 3D was good, but who wants to watch 3D on a 65 incher when you can watch it on a 110 inch screen that shows an almost life size picture.
 

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You know what? I forgot to put those 3D settings to memory because I didn't have glasses at that time. I'll do that tonight and give it another spin.
 

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ATV 4K can play movies at their native frame rate of 24 FPS. However, I’m not sure how that works for TV shows that are native 60 FPS.
Not a problem as long as you set “Match Frame Rate” to on.
 

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So I picked up a refurb 5040 a few months back and have been testing it in my theater build. I am seeing diagonal lines during bright faster moving scenes from all sources, the lines are at about a 45 degree angle from upper left to lower right. Has anyone else seen this issue? I thought it was normal until last night when I went to a friends house and saw how awesome his 5040 refurb looked even when watching an upscaled 720p movie.

Thanks
Donnie
 

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The only thing I see on my BNIB unit is a thin square outline around the whole outside of the image - very strange. I've asked on this forum about it but never got a reply of any kind. It is not a solid colour, more like a reflection of the portion of good image to the inside of it. It does not hit you in the face because it's not a solid colour but seems to be comprised of the same image characteriscs that are displayed on the screen. If you look very closely, it is there all the time and sometimes it's quite noticeable along the top because of the top usually being sky or something light like that. I have a 125" screen, the outline is about maybe 1/2" wide. Nothing diagnonal through the middle of the image like you describe. I want to send it in for inspection, but feel more often than not people are even less happy after their 5040 has been repaired or refurbished. Appears to operate well otherwise.
 

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What surge protectors / UPS are you guys plugging your projectors into?
I don't have a UPS backup for my projector and I do live in an area very prone to outages. How important is it or are these things pretty robust these days?
I too live in bad area for brown/blackouts but I also had some problems in my last house. Now I have a Panamax power conditioner on all my theater electronics except the PJ because it's pretty far away from the electronics cabinet. On the PJ I actually placed a very old UPS up in the floor joists, this thing is so old that my father used to have it on the computers when he closed the store in 1990. I put a couple new batteries in it and it appears to work pretty well still. Had a quick brown-out once with it already and the PJ didn't loose a beat. I really wanted to install one because I noticed every time we lost power while it was on - the PJ would go into some sort of safety loop where I couldn't really tell what I was supposed to do next. It would be unresponsive with blipping blue lights and be that way for many minutes. Finally after a frenzy of button pressing it would eventually start to work normally again. Very concerning, didn't like it. Much happier now. My impression of electronics is that they are very delicate to things like this, most electronics do not have an actual power switch anymore and therefore even when off they are on. I've known people that loose electronics to lightning strikes also, so I have a whole home stage 1 surge protector at the panel in addition to stage 3 protections at (like a power strip) at other electronics. Stage 1 panel surge protectors really are not expensive or hard to install - usually cost around $300 to buy. Based on my observations, experiences and assumptions - I think it was a no brainer to go this route. An electrician I know confirms that for the power strips to have any real clamping effect on big surges, they still need a big protector somewhere else as surge protector power strips only usually handle low surge joules often only with a tiny choke and capacitor. The Panamax and UPS's also have more advanced protection built-in so all and all I think I'm pretty safe.
 

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So I picked up a refurb 5040 a few months back and have been testing it in my theater build. I am seeing diagonal lines during bright faster moving scenes from all sources, the lines are at about a 45 degree angle from upper left to lower right. Has anyone else seen this issue? I thought it was normal until last night when I went to a friends house and saw how awesome his 5040 refurb looked even when watching an upscaled 720p movie.

Thanks
Donnie
Sounds like "hum" bars. Please check the grounds to all your components. Often the culprit is the cable input. Try disconnecting components one at a time until the bars go away.

Jeff
 

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Not a problem as long as you set “Match Frame Rate” to on.
Thanks for the answer. Turns out that’s true for the question I asked, for 24fps, but, as someone else pointed out, it won’t help for the TV shows that are 60fps HDR. I hadn’t though of that, so in the interest of future proofing (and my limited budget), I went with the HC 3800.
 

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Hello all. I am really hoping I can get some information. I bought a barely used 5040 off eBay but returned it after there seemed to be a problem with the auto iris. I got a full refund, fortunately. I then bought a refurbished 6040 for a couple hundred more but feel much better with the warranty.

Now to my question. I have been going back through this thread and really want to learn more about the HDFury. I believe people are using the Linker, but not sure if there is another popular product. I have searched for posts on it and read through them, but still would appreciate a basic summary of which it will do for me. I am using a Panasonic 820 and ATV 4k. I know that when I was playing around with the 5040, I had to change the HDR to 24Hz on my ATV, and I know the Linker had something to do with these conversions.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If anyone knows of specific posts or links I can read, that would be helpful too. Thank you in advance!
 

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Sounds like "hum" bars. Please check the grounds to all your components. Often the culprit is the cable input. Try disconnecting components one at a time until the bars go away.

Jeff
So I took my 5040 to my friends house and I get the same issue from his power and his source that looks amazing on his 5040. I will be calling Epson on Monday. Fingers crossed. It's almost like the pixel shift isn't working but I don't know. Thanks for the replies.

Donnie
 

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Does anyone have a direct link to HDR harpervision settings? My link to them is broken due to the new site. Even Dave Harper’s links no longer work.
You can still access the old links by deleting the reference to the page number:
 

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Any recommendations for Panasonic HDR Optimizer settings? I just got my 420 today and there aren't really clear instructions on how to best apply it to the Epson projectors. Thanks in advance.
 

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Some of the settings will depend on the picture settings you will use on the Epson however first thing is to turn the optimiser on and set the basic luminance to 'projector', this will then set the correct tone mapping.

If you intend to use the 'digital cinema' mode on the Epson to engage the filter, you could also then tweak the DR setting on the panny which will give you more brightness to offset the decrease in lumens.

Enjoy!

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I've been using Bright Cinema prior to getting the Panny, I guess I'll just experiment and see what works. Digital Cinema is a bit dim for my tastes due to the filter, but maybe the Panny will make it more usable. I just got it hooked up this afternoon and I have family visiting... daughters/nieces are camped out in the theater right now. I should be able to play with it a little more after everyone leaves tomorrow evening.
 
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Any recommendations for Panasonic HDR Optimizer settings? I just got my 420 today and there aren't really clear instructions on how to best apply it to the Epson projectors. Thanks in advance.
These are my 420 setting I use with my 6040 using NATUAL UHD settings.


HDMI

4K
4K(60p)(4:4:4)
AUTO
AUTO
AUTO ONLY
ON

ADVANCED

YcbCr (AUTO)
AUTO(12 bit Priority)
HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
ON
OFF
BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
OFF
AUTO
AUTO
ON
AUTO

VIDEO

AUTO
ON

AUDIO

OFF
---
UP TO 96 kHz
SURROUND ENCODED
NORMAL
---
O
OFF

3D

AUTO
ORIGINAL
OFF

REMOTE

HD OPTIMIZER

STANDARD
+8
0
+4
-4


Good luck!

John

...finally retired and spending time in my dedicated HT!!!

SPARKSPLEX HT - Epson 6040 3D/4K UB Projector; 110" .09 16x9 Dalite HD Progressive Screen; Sammy 3D/4K K8500 (r-free); Panny ub420; 7.2.4. Def Tech speakers, Earthquake P12v2 Subs; Auto Source 100vs Amp; Denon 4300H; MX990 Remote; .
 
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Hello all. I am really hoping I can get some information. I bought a barely used 5040 off eBay but returned it after there seemed to be a problem with the auto iris. I got a full refund, fortunately. I then bought a refurbished 6040 for a couple hundred more but feel much better with the warranty.

Now to my question. I have been going back through this thread and really want to learn more about the HDFury. I believe people are using the Linker, but not sure if there is another popular product. I have searched for posts on it and read through them, but still would appreciate a basic summary of which it will do for me. I am using a Panasonic 820 and ATV 4k. I know that when I was playing around with the 5040, I had to change the HDR to 24Hz on my ATV, and I know the Linker had something to do with these conversions.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If anyone knows of specific posts or links I can read, that would be helpful too. Thank you in advance!
I'm using the Linker so that my devices (Xfinity DVR and Roku Ultra) can send 4k60 4:4:4 (5040 won't accept) and the Linker converts it to 4k60 4:2:0 which the projector will accept.
 
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