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2 days past 2 years and I now have the dreaded "replace lamp soon" message. Image is still plenty bright in Natural, I only use Bright Cinema if the room lighting is high (or sunlight making its way in) and no flickering I've noticed before previous epson failures..

Question: Is the projector just basing it on hours or is it "smarter" and based on some sort of self-tests? Extra risk (explosion/damage) to keep the bulb in longer?
If it's purely an "hours" based replacement message, seems reasonable to keep running it a few more 1000.
But if it's based on lamp self-tests (power consumption/etc), maybe it's time to order the replacement.

Hours from service menu:
Total Operation time: 4729H
Lamp Op. Time 4904H
(3D/H/M/L/UL): 0H/ 1H/ 668H/ 4059H/ ----H
Lamp ON/Lamp OFF: 763Times / 760Times

Looks like BHP has the best OEM replacement cost at $237. Guess that's better than $300.
I made it till 8K hours on dynamic getting that message so probably no worries for awhile if it's bright enough. (All Eco)
 

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I made it till 8K hours on dynamic getting that message so probably no worries for awhile if it's bright enough. (All Eco)
How did yours fail at 8k? Failed @ low light? Exploded lamp?
I only hesitate because my 3010 developed LCD image issues when the lamp passed EOL message but probably just coincidental timing. Hopefully the panels are better in the 5040. Every new version it's said they're "less organic" and should last longer. Yeah, plenty bright, I only have a small 135" white fixed screen. Also found what purports to be OEM epson packaged replacement bulb for ~$140 on Ebay.

But I suppose Ive got a 5020UB on the shelf as backup if this one fails.
 

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I bought 5040 two months back, and loving it. Upgraded from 3500ub, that was amazing as well.
I checked out first post which talks about most known Blu-ray players or sources, but no mention of Sony Blu-ray player, i have x800. Can someone share or add to the compatibility section, any info for this player?
Also, can someone please share any posts with recommended settings? Main use movies, source Sony x800 player. Generic proHT screen from Fry's. Main use is under controlled lighting/dark.

Thanks in advance.

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This projector works just fine with the X800. You need only enable 24p output to ensure that UHD BD's and UHD Streaming will work. Though this player offers tone mapping of some sort (HDR->SDR conversion) I find it to be lacking. It is probably best to have the X800 not change the source signal.

On your 5040/6040 you should probably calibrate it (if you don't have a colorimeter then get a cal disc of some sort for the basics) using "Natural" mode. Adjust the lamp power to get the brightness that you prefer. For HDR viewing on the X800 I recommend keeping the 5040 in the same calibrated mode. Just be sure that your dynamic range is set to "Auto" or "Auto (Bright)" (adjust to your taste) and keep the color gamut at "Auto".

These settings are going to be the easiest way to get a decent picture with minimal effort. There are many other options for settings that you will see on this forum but I would be weary of dumping a lot of time into any of them if you don't have a colorimeter to ensure that you are getting proper gamma. A stranger's settings will be useless to you if your environment (screen + ambient light + etc.) results in a different gamma than theirs.

After trying all of these myriad settings I still prefer to use the X800 with with my "Natural" mode calibrated to gamma 2.4. This engages the Epson's tone mapping which, though not great, is not nearly as deficient as people on this forum will claim. The key to good performance on this is to have the gamma calibrated very accurately, especially at low IRE's. I use 21 point grayscale for gamma calibration - the Epson only allows editing of about 10 points but you will find that without the extra resolution during testing you may not choose the best values that keep the curve flat. Furthermore, the Epson gamma controls are nonlinear on the x-axis so a 21-point calibration allows for much more precision at the low IRE's where the Epson gamma controls are finer than 10% increments.

Of course the best image, in my opinion, comes from the Panasonic's with their own tone mapping but that is not relevant here as you are using the Sony (I have both, so I have done lots of comparisons).
 
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What to do?

I’m looking for advice from the knowledgeable folks on here. I’ll try to make a long story short.

Mistake number 1 was buying my 5040UB from Eastporters, which isn’t an authorized Epson dealer. Mistake number 2 was sending them my projector for "warranty" replacement.

Eastporters sent me a replacement projector that is worse than the projector I sent back and now they won't do anything further. The first problem should be easy enough to fix. There are dozens of dust blobs in the projected image. Even when the projector is properly focused these are visible if a bright or dark image is projected. If the dust blobs can be removed, will the projector always be prone to having them come back?

The second problem might be trickier to fix. The image doesn't "pop" like my previous projector did. Everything looks dark, playing video games is difficult because it's so dark. Of course I can bump up the brightness but then everything just looks washed out. It's as though the bulb needs to be replaced, but according to the menu, it's a brand new bulb. Interestingly, content in HDR is brighter than SDR.

So now my dilemma is whether to just cut my losses with this projector and buy another one. I can’t justify paying for another brand new 5040UB, but would take my chances with a refurb which are surprisingly affordable.

Or, I can see if the one I currently have can be cleaned and fixed. My concerns with this is that there’s no one local to me that could possibly fix this projector so I’d have to send it away. Plus, I don’t know if it can be properly fixed so this may just be a waste of time and money.

What are your thoughts?
 

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The image doesn't "pop" like my previous projector did. Everything looks dark, playing video games is difficult because it's so dark. Of course I can bump up the brightness but then everything just looks washed out. It's as though the bulb needs to be replaced, but according to the menu, it's a brand new bulb. Interestingly, content in HDR is brighter than SDR.
If HDR is brighter than SDR when the bulb is likely not the culprit. Try using the Bright Cinema mode. Also, contrary to what the name suggests, the Brightness Control is only used to adjust the black level, not the overall brightness.
 

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I’m looking for advice from the knowledgeable folks on here. I’ll try to make a long story short.

Mistake number 1 was buying my 5040UB from Eastporters, which isn’t an authorized Epson dealer...............


...............My concerns with this is that there’s no one local to me that could possibly fix this projector so I’d have to send it away. Plus, I don’t know if it can be properly fixed so this may just be a waste of time and money.

What are your thoughts?

Haven't seen a break down on the 5040 as of yet....there was one on the previous 6030 so might give one an idea of what is involved but with the motorized optical assembly it might be tricky... but they can be cleaned.





....thanks for the heads up on Eastporters...got my screen from them.....just assumed they were authorized....sadly sometimes the warranty is everything. : (


Curious as to what the explanation was that they wouldn't address your obvious concerns? .......... Good luck
 

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Not sure if this is of interest to anyone, but I fiddled around with a custom resolution in my Nvidia control panel, and the 5040 will handle a 1080p @90Hz signal just fine! With Nvidias new low latency mode it sure seems snappy.

 

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With regards to the HDMI 2.0 10 Gbit/s issue, would it be terribly involved to remove the existing HDMI port and replace it with an HDMI port that supports the full 18 Gb/s? Or is it an entire board or part of a board that would need to be upgraded? It seems to me like this should be a simple upgrade, but I don't know enough about how these projectors are built to say for sure.

What I do know is that I bought a (used) Epson 5040UB with the understanding that it was HDMI 2.0 for 4k and HDR, only to find out days after the unit arrived that it doesn't support 4k HDR gaming on the Xbox One X, which was the entire reason I was looking for a 4k projector in the first place. The linker seems like a very imperfect solution that almost has as much compromise to it as would just forgoing the 4k HDR altogether, but I'm not about to toss a $1500 projector to replace it with it's $3,000 latest model, which is way out of my price range anyways. I'm just surprised that someone with a little electrical know-how hasn't come up with a way to replace the limiting components to make this projector fully compatible with the standard. Not knowing enough about it myself, my fear is that, if nobody seems to have tried it, it's probably more involved than I'm supposing, which is something that I suppose I can begrudgingly live with, but it is incredibly disappointing when I had sought out what I thought was the perfect solution for wanting a quality 4k (ish) picture with excellent black levels and decent lag time, such that it can be used for movies and gaming both (though my primary use will certainly be gaming, hence the significant disappointment).
 

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I have seen some say that they have firmware 1.13 on their 5040UB. I went to Epson's USA web site and it says the latest is 1.12. What is actually the latest release?

This is what I have
 

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Many components in these pjs, are Epson proprietary components(you can't even find anything on the net about them), then you would have to deal with HDCP Ics as well, software to run everything, and so on.
My refurb unit just got delivered( I barely wait to get home) and I feel your pain, I'm in the same boat, I can't afford the 5050 yet, so I will have to settle with this pj for a while.
 

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Quick question if I may, guys!

Those who do calibration with a meter for SDR... do you see much gamma drift as the lamp ages? Is that drift restored back to normal when you put a new lamp in it?

I don’t think it’s as much of an issue with LCD as it is with LCOS panels but would like to know! Thx so much!
 

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Quick question if I may, guys!

Those who do calibration with a meter for SDR... do you see much gamma drift as the lamp ages? Is that drift restored back to normal when you put a new lamp in it?

I don’t think it’s as much of an issue with LCD as it is with LCOS panels but would like to know! Thx so much!
On my Epson 8345 the gamma dropped to 1.7 average. I believe it’s the panels, not the bulb which has only 600 hours. I had to use custom gamma to bring it higher as even the 2.4 setting is too low.
 

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Quick question if I may, guys!

Those who do calibration with a meter for SDR... do you see much gamma drift as the lamp ages? Is that drift restored back to normal when you put a new lamp in it?

I don’️t think it’️s as much of an issue with LCD as it is with LCOS panels but would like to know! Thx so much!
On my Epson 8345 the gamma dropped to 1.7 average. I believe it’️s the panels, not the bulb which has only 600 hours. I had to use custom gamma to bring it higher as even the 2.4 setting is too low.
Well, it could be both in fact. Difficult to know unless a new bulb is put into it. 🙂 why do you believe it’s the panels?

Btw, did that one have organic or non-organic panels?
 

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I have seen some say that they have firmware 1.13 on their 5040UB. I went to Epson's USA web site and it says the latest is 1.12. What is actually the latest release?

This is what I have
My 6040 came with 1.10 and I upgraded it to 1.11. It's not broken so I'm not going to fix it by going to a newer FW.
 

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I have just got my refurb unit, and has the V113/V111 on it as well. By the way, it is a good unit, no issues at all.
 

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A lot of the HDR settings listed here look great in bright scenes, but in dark scenes it is REALLY dark. Is it due to my .8 ALR screen or something eles? Would a higher gain be better?
 

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A lot of the HDR settings listed here look great in bright scenes, but in dark scenes it is REALLY dark. Is it due to my .8 ALR screen or something eles? Would a higher gain be better?
Personally, I would forget the hdr settings specific to the 5040 and learn about using madVR.

Madvr essentially does the tone mapping for hdr, but your working with an sdr image setting on your 5040. It makes a huge difference.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Personally, I would forget the hdr settings specific to the 5040 and learn about using madVR.

Madvr essentially does the tone mapping for hdr, but your working with an sdr image setting on your 5040. It makes a huge difference.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Do I need a computer with it?

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Do I need a computer with it?

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Yes, and time to learn.

But it is well worth it imo.

Madvr produces the best hdr I've ever seen.

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