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I have not seen JTR S2/RSs in piano black gloss in the wild...

This is his piano gloss finish:
]
His piano gloss finish looks fantastic. I wonder why he doesn’t offer it as a standard option ? It would be worth the upcharge for many people.
 

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Thinking about returning (still under the 60 day) my PSA TV3612 and picking up the Cap4000....need to convince the wife first if I do decide to go that route.

I like the TV3612, I get that chest thump and my couch vibrates but somehow I feel like I’️m still missing something
where are you located? will happily offer a demo if you're in the North East area and want to take a drive my way.
I live in Northwest Iowa
 

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I live in Northwest Iowa
yeah that's a hike. when i spoke with tom back when he was taking orders for the tv36/tv42, he told me that the tv36 would not have the monstrous gains i was looking for vs the rythmik fv25's i was using. so for me it was a choice between the cap4000, tv42 or diy. if you really feel like you're missing something, i would pull the trigger and exchange for something more powerful before your return window runs out.
 

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I like the TV3612, I get that chest thump and my couch vibrates but somehow I feel like I’m still missing something
Like what, ULF? Have you measured your room to verify whether or not you mlp is not in a null?
 

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Aren’t there only like 3-4 movies out there that have ULF ex 10hz content ?
There are 100's of movies that contain ULF content
 

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Need help setting up my JTR. I have 1200XS,and have never owned anything this beastly. Coming from SVS PB2000. Ran Audyssey on my Marantz 6012. It set level at negative one. I bumped it up 6DBs andyou can barely hear it. Both Dynamic optioins off. Gain set at about 50%, phase at 0 crossover about 120. Sub is in front left corner where PB2000 sounded best, but it is a lot more sub,and may not have enough space. Any help is appreciated.
Odd. I have the same AVR, my 1200XS amp gain is set around 10:00, LF max, delay 0, crossover max...Audy set the level -10 and my sub is around 11ft away from the MLP. I bumped the sub trim up to -5. Dynamic eq off. @ MV-0 it hits 115-120db from 12-80hz.

Couple different things you might try...

Recheck connections.

Try the other input on the amp and/or AVR

A different cable.

Plugging a different source directly to the sub like a phone and play something off youtube or music app.
 

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Thinking about returning (still under the 60 day) my PSA TV3612 and picking up the Cap4000....need to convince the wife first if I do decide to go that route.

I like the TV3612, I get that chest thump and my couch vibrates but somehow I feel like I’m still missing something[/QUOTE=

You have the what if...It doesn't go away trust me.If I where you I'd use that 60 day and swap for a TV42.
Tom might let you return the TV42 if you don't like it,you would be in a position to try a TV36,TV42 and a CAP 4000 lol
The only thing that scares me about the TV42 is the drivers are over a thousand dollars a piece if you ever need a new one,where JTR uses a much more common Fi audio 18" spected out to what he wants.
I don't know about you guys but I run my subs hard on the daily and if I smoke a driver it's nice knowing I can get a rebuild from Fi audio anytime;)
 

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^^^ If I were spending the money for a TV42 at $4500, I would pocket the $500-600 and get the Cap 4000. All tested and measured and still one of the most powerful sub on data-bass. The numbers on data-bass are insane especially considering they are at 2 meters outside...:eek:
 

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Is the RMS 2400 watts on the Speakerpower amp? What is the peak?

For example, SVS PB16 states 1500 RMS and 5000 peak.

The Speakerpower specs just say 2400 watts.

I do know for a fact trading up to a pair of Cap 2400s that they are indeed more powerful than the pair of PB16s I had but wondering what the true Speakerpower specs are.
 

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Have any of you JTR owners also experienced Danley subs? There is an auction close to me that has a couple TH221. I’m curious on how they might compare to a Cap4000. I know they won’t dig as low, but the output on them is insane. If they were to be cheap enough, I’m toying with the idea of them as risers for a second row of seating.
 

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Need help setting up my JTR. I have 1200XS,and have never owned anything this beastly. Coming from SVS PB2000. Ran Audyssey on my Marantz 6012. It set level at negative one. I bumped it up 6DBs andyou can barely hear it. Both Dynamic optioins off. Gain set at about 50%, phase at 0 crossover about 120. Sub is in front left corner where PB2000 sounded best, but it is a lot more sub,and may not have enough space. Any help is appreciated.
Below is the guide for the initial subwoofer set up with Denon AVR's Audyssey.

Flow chart:

1. Adjust the settings on sub amp plate.
2. AVR auto calibration.
3. Post auto calibration adjustments

The LF Adjust acts as an equalizer that controls the ultra low frequencies. JTR's setting is, with LF Adjust @ Cut, it has the least low end. With the LF Adjust @ Boost, it has the most low end.

On your subs, start with the Gain @ 12 o'clock, the Cap 1200XS's LF Adjust @ cut, the Crossover @ 120 Hz/Out, the Delay @ 0 ms, the RCA input @ left. This means that you are letting your AVR set the crossover, delay, and etc.

Proceed with Audyssey where it sets the level/phase/distance for your speakers and sub. At the beginning, Audyssey will let you know if you have your sub gain level set properly. It asked me to turn down the sub's gain. So I went to SW Level Matching, and adjusted the sub's gain until it reads 84 to 85dB. Then proceeded with Audyssey sending chirps to your speakers. At the end of auto calibration, I chose NO for Dynamic EQ and Dynamic Volume.

Then go to Setup - Speakers - Manual Setup

In speaker config, front, center, and surround should be changed to small.

In level, test tone start, subwoofer1 should be -11dB ~ -9dB. You can add 3db to 6db here.

In crossover, if Front, Center, and Surround were set at lower than 80Hz, change that to 80Hz.

Then exit Audyssey.

Audyssey generally sets the sub level too low. This is why I have recommended adding 3 to 6 dB above. I can also increase the sub's gain.

As for the LF Adjust, turn it up to taste.

Then I would go to Setup - Audio.

In Dialogue Level Adjust, Default is Off. "Off" is equal to "ON and -6dB". Therefore, if I set it to "ON and -3dB" the center channel is 3db hotter than the other channels.

In Volume, Scale, I would change it to -79.5dB ~ -18dB.

In Audyssey, MultEQ XT 32, default should be Reference. I prefer Flat.
 

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Is the RMS 2400 watts on the Speakerpower amp? What is the peak?

For example, SVS PB16 states 1500 RMS and 5000 peak.

The Speakerpower specs just say 2400 watts.

I do know for a fact trading up to a pair of Cap 2400s that they are indeed more powerful than the pair of PB16s I had but wondering what the true Speakerpower specs are.
The PEAK wattage is marketing used to confuse people.

SpeakerPower amps are rated @ RMS. By SVS's logic, you can say that the Cap 2400 is 2400W RMS and 8000W peak.
 

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Below is the guide for the initial subwoofer set up with Denon AVR's Audyssey.
Flow chart: 1. Adjust the settings on sub amp plate. 2. AVR auto calibration. 3. Post auto calibration adjustments The LF Adjust acts as an equalizer that controls the ultra low frequencies. JTR's setting is, with LF Adjust @ Cut, it has the least low end. With the LF Adjust @ Boost, it has the most low end. On your subs, start with the Gain @ 12 o'clock, the Cap 1200XS's LF Adjust @ cut, the Crossover @ 120 Hz/Out, the Delay @ 0 ms, the RCA input @ left. This means that you are letting your AVR set the crossover, delay, and etc.
Proceed with Audyssey where it sets the level/phase/distance for your speakers and sub. At the beginning, Audyssey will let you know if you have your sub gain level set properly. It asked me to turn down the sub's gain. So I went to SW Level Matching, and adjusted the sub's gain until it reads 84 to 85dB. Then proceeded with Audyssey sending chirps to your speakers. At the end of auto calibration, I chose NO for Dynamic EQ and Dynamic Volume. Then go to Setup - Speakers - Manual Setup In speaker config, front, center, and surround should be changed to small. In level, test tone start, subwoofer1 should be -11dB ~ -9dB. You can add 3db to 6db here. In crossover, if Front, Center, and Surround were set at lower than 80Hz, change that to 80Hz. Then exit Audyssey. Audyssey generally sets the sub level too low. This is why I have recommended adding 3 to 6 dB above. I can also increase the sub's gain. As for the LF Adjust, turn it up to taste. Then I would go to Setup - Audio. In Dialogue Level Adjust, Default is Off. "Off" is equal to "ON and -6dB". Therefore, if I set it to "ON and -3dB" the center channel is 3db hotter than the other channels. In Volume, Scale, I would change it to -79.5dB ~ -18dB. In Audyssey, MultEQ XT 32, default should be Reference. I prefer Flat.

This was a big help. I cant believe how Audyssey sets this up. It had my fronts as large and crossover at 40hz. I still have some tweaks to do, but we may have to sub crawl as well, I just don't have many places for this beast. Jeff was holding a second one for me and I'm not sure I have the room.
 

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This was a big help. I cant believe how Audyssey sets this up. It had my fronts as large and crossover at 40hz. I still have some tweaks to do, but we may have to sub crawl as well, I just don't have many places for this beast. Jeff was holding a second one for me and I'm not sure I have the room.
Chucky was spot on. I was assuming you had all of those things he listed prior to posting addressed.

That is fairly common with room correction no matter the sub. I don't believe you will find a smaller 15" sub then the 1200XS. So if it is too large to add another then purchasing another brand wouldn't be any smaller. I also wouldn't mix the 2 subs either since you appear to be a novice at setting up subs. I would worry about dialing in the first sub and getting all of the potential out of it before moving to a second sub...especially something that has a different tuning point and driver.
 

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Chucky was spot on. I was assuming you had all of those things he listed prior to posting addressed.

That is fairly common with room correction no matter the sub. I don't believe you will find a smaller 15" sub then the 1200XS. So if it is too large to add another then purchasing another brand wouldn't be any smaller. I also wouldn't mix the 2 subs either since you appear to be a novice at setting up subs. I would worry about dialing in the first sub and getting all of the potential out of it before moving to a second sub...especially something that has a different tuning point and driver.
Thanks. I have never owned a sub like this. Smaller ones were always easier to get dialed in. Going to do sub crawl and play with it this week.
 

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Hello everyone, I'm thinking about buying a JTR sub. This is a BIG DEAL (read, expensive to me) for me. If I can only have one sub, which one should I get (90% movies/10% music) also, is it worth the upcharge to get the 220/240V model? I could get the electrical done easy enough. I welcome any and ALL opinions and thank you in advance.
Any other restrictions? like budget? or size?

Captivator 4000 is what I would go for if I were you. I have the RS2s, but the 4000s have more output and aren't that much more expensive.
 
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