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There’s a thread that references these as being compatible with the JVC and being from the same manufacturer.

Are the JVC glasses really my only option? I might as well have not bought the adapter at this point...
Xpands makes the JVC Glasses, but the difference between the JVC branded ones and the Xpand ones is the JVC ones are polarised horizontally, and the Xpands are vertical.

As far as I know, your only option is the JVC ones.

Unless @zombie10k knows something I dont...
 

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Just my .02 cents about HDR on MY RS440

Finally installed the projector just a few days ago and of course since then have binge watched a few things while constantly adjusting settings.

At first, HDR was a disappointment. Colors definitely popped, but the blacks and shadows were so dark and the over all image was so dark the viewing experience was not enjoyable on a 4k HDR disc.

I found this thread and this webpage http://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-x950r_x750r_x550r_x9000_x7000_x5000_xc7890r_xc6890r_xc5890r_rs600_rs500_rs400_uhd.html

Finding those settings was a god send. After putting those in, it breathed life into the HDR mode. I had to adjust the settings slightly different from the ones listed on the website from JVC, but I am much happier with the projector now.

side note, the website lists the gamma as D. I don't have gamma D and assumed they meant HDR(2048). Was I wrong to assume that?
That's interesting as I find the HDR out of the box to be very good on my RS440. I don't have any measurement tools, but just adjust the iris to my liking for light output. However, looking forward to Chad B coming out for optimization.
 

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I just rebuilt my screen with Carl’s flexiwhite material. At this point it’d be cheaper to build a new screen then to buy JVC glasses. Or return the 540. Not interested in spending $1000 for 8 sets of glasses.


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I use cheap $15.00 Sony glasses they work just fine, forget the JVC ones they are a rip off.
 

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Here is my story: I'm a pretty happy owner of the DLA-X550R projector. I've had it for 18 months and it works great, except for ONE THING: HDR

About six months ago I upgraded my system to 4K, including purchasing a 4K OLED television. The bottom line is, native 4K material looks fabulous on the X550 as long as it is not HDR-enabled. If it is, the picture goes noticeably darker. I have worked with other contributors of the 950/750/550 thread to see what is causing the issue. I have the latest firmware, downloaded the BT.2020 color profile, and set a User Input mode specifically to the setting JVC recommends for HDR. No dice.

So.... Before I consider upgrading from my X550 to a X590, how has the HDR experience been with the X790/X990? (I assume that some X590 owners post here as well):rolleyes:

The issue I have is that when I'm watching HDR-enabled material (About 25% of the time) I really can't use the X550. On the other HDR and Dolby Vision material looks positively sensational on the LG.

Many thanks,
Brian
Not sure you would see much of an improvement if you upgraded, most of us are happy with the built in 2084 gamma tweaked a little and/or with the custom curves, not much has changed on the new gen in that regard. I also have and OLED and it is a drag going back to the PJ to watch HDR after the TV I agree but that is just the nature of things. The large screen however is a different experience altogether.

You should definitely try the custom curves first.
 

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I use cheap $15.00 Sony glasses they work just fine, forget the JVC ones they are a rip off.
Those are not horizontally polarised though are they?
 

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Those are not horizontally polarised though are they?
No idea, they work just as fine as the originals I used to have.
 

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No idea, they work just as fine as the originals I used to have.
The issue with this user is his screen retains polarisation thus he needs the horizontally polarised glasses.
 

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The issue with this user is his screen retains polarisation thus he needs the horizontally polarised glasses.
kool, was just sayin
 

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Okay- newbie here with gamma anything. Is there a website or thread with said curves? Does the upload replace what’s on the unit or add to? Do I need the Spyder to do that? Do I need my own calibrated curve?

My 540 gets here soon. The more I read about all these settings and adjustments I may be in over my head. Seems to be a step up from just using the Spears and Munsil disc.



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You'll be fine with the curve the projector comes with you'll just have to adjust it to your liking... I have mines at picture tone 3, dark level 3 and bright level at 1.. Then go to brightness and put that between 2-4.
Enjoy the projector for a few months don't drive yourself crazy like i did.. Then the day you have time download the curves if you feel like experimenting but the built in curve is just fine.. Don't quote me on this but I think the custom curves were meant more for the older models..

I do have the custom curves on my 520 just in case i need them one day..
 

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You'll be fine with the curve the projector comes with you'll just have to adjust it to your liking... I have mines at picture tone 3, dark level 3 and bright level at 1.. Then go to brightness and put that between 2-4.

Enjoy the projector for a few months don't drive yourself crazy like i did.. Then the day you have time download the curves if you feel like experimenting but the built in curve is just fine.. Don't quote me on this but I think the custom curves were meant more for the older models..



I do have the custom curves on my 520 just in case i need them one day..


I’ll keep tweaking it. I’m not dying to mess with custom curves just yet- I just want a watchable HDR Picture and right now it’s not watchable out of the box. I found the different gamma settings but didn’t see the tone/brightness etc. I didn’t have much time with it though. I just want to make sure I don’t have a bad unit.

And then there’s this 3D fiasco. I found a seller across the pond who has the JVC version of the XPAND glasses. Still cheaper than JVC glasses.

I’m going to try 3D on a sheet just to confirm it’s a polarization issue and not brightness.


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That's interesting as I find the HDR out of the box to be very good on my RS440. I don't have any measurement tools, but just adjust the iris to my liking for light output. However, looking forward to Chad B coming out for optimization.
I too am looking forward to Chad B this Jan/Feb here in So Cal. Don't think he's ever come out this far West before. Good timing as I should have just over 150 hours on the 640.
 

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I’ll keep tweaking it. I’m not dying to mess with custom curves just yet- I just want a watchable HDR Picture and right now it’s not watchable out of the box. I found the different gamma settings but didn’t see the tone/brightness etc. I didn’t have much time with it though. I just want to make sure I don’t have a bad unit.

And then there’s this 3D fiasco. I found a seller across the pond who has the JVC version of the XPAND glasses. Still cheaper than JVC glasses.

I’m going to try 3D on a sheet just to confirm it’s a polarization issue and not brightness.


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For HDR, try these settings:

ST2084
Picture Tone = 10
Dark Level = 5
Bright Level = -7
Low Lamp
0 for brightness and contrast.
 

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Hi brian... take a look at the 2nd post in this thread. I used Ryan's hdr10 patterns to dial in a hand full of stock st2084 gamma adjustments for 1000 nits. ie... 77 and 728 just barely flashing. The difference between each of the setting options is how the low mid grayscale is reproduced. I think I have identified a group of settings similar to the SDR Natural gamma, the B gamma and several intermediate steps.

If you have a film which is mastered closer to the 4000 nits standard, use the primary contrast control to reduce any crush or clipping of the specular highlights. So far, calibrating for 1000 nits has not been an issue on the HDR films I have.
Thanks very much, I'll play with this over the weekend! :)
 

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For HDR, try these settings:

ST2084
Picture Tone = 10
Dark Level = 5
Bright Level = -7
Low Lamp
0 for brightness and contrast.
Those are pretty drastic settings, has anybody measured this against the EOTF in calibration software to see how far off the target ST2084 EOTF this is, because I am guessing its a lot.

What nits level is this targeting?

Picture Tone control radically 'twists' the gamma S-Curve.

Has anybody compared these settings aginst my Arve two curves (with peroperly set black levels in the Arve tool)?
 

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Those are pretty drastic settings, has anybody measured this against the EOTF in calibration software to see how far off the target ST2084 EOTF this is, because I am guessing its a lot.

What nits level is this targeting?

Picture Tone control radically 'twists' the gamma S-Curve.

Has anybody compared these settings aginst my Arve two curves (with peroperly set black levels in the Arve tool)?

Not sure.. looks great with Planet Earth II and everything I’ve tried on Netflix and Amazon prime.
 

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So I wanted to show some comparison images shot from my phone of Paciific Rim 4k HDR in two different settings.

First is Cinema with HDR color temp and Gamma A.
Second will be HDR with HDR color temp and HDR(ST.2084) gamma.
I post these and ask what am I missing or what is wrong with the HDR mode? Like I said in my earlier post, HDR is so dark, unless its a daylight scene, I loose a lot of detail in the scene. Am i misunderstanding what the HDR mode is for and I should be watching all 4k HDR movies in Cinema mode with the HDR color temp? I just assumed the HDR mode with HDR(ST.2084) gamma were ment for 4k HDR movies.

I am new to the projector scene and am trying to understand HDR, WCG, and how it all comes together concerning calibrating or adjusting it for a better picture.

First image will be Cinema mode and second will be HDR. I do have projector menu screen shots with the same scenes if they are wanted for some reason.

20171124_191204Cinema.jpg
20171124_191142HDR.jpg


20171124_191324Cinema.jpg
20171124_191357HDR.jpg

20171124_191451Cinema.jpg
20171124_191434HDR.jpg
 

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I too am looking forward to Chad B this Jan/Feb here in So Cal. Don't think he's ever come out this far West before. Good timing as I should have just over 150 hours on the 640.
He come out that way some times, rare but it happens ;)
 

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So I wanted to show some comparison images shot from my phone of Paciific Rim 4k HDR in two different settings.

First is Cinema with HDR color temp and Gamma A.
Second will be HDR with HDR color temp and HDR(ST.2084) gamma.
I post these and ask what am I missing or what is wrong with the HDR mode? Like I said in my earlier post, HDR is so dark, unless its a daylight scene, I loose a lot of detail in the scene. Am i misunderstanding what the HDR mode is for and I should be watching all 4k HDR movies in Cinema mode with the HDR color temp? I just assumed the HDR mode with HDR(ST.2084) gamma were ment for 4k HDR movies.

I am new to the projector scene and am trying to understand HDR, WCG, and how it all comes together concerning calibrating or adjusting it for a better picture.

First image will be Cinema mode and second will be HDR. I do have projector menu screen shots with the same scenes if they are wanted for some reason.
I think you have answered your own question. It seems you are not familiar yet with how HDR supposed to look like, selecting Cinema with Gama A etc in an HDR mode will result in a washed out image and that's why they appear brighter but they are incorrect, you need to watch HDR in HDR mode with the correct gamma settings, you can go into the HDR gamma settings and tweak things there and/or in your player's HDR slider area to brighten up the image.
 

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So I wanted to show some comparison images shot from my phone of Paciific Rim 4k HDR in two different settings.

First is Cinema with HDR color temp and Gamma A.
Second will be HDR with HDR color temp and HDR(ST.2084) gamma.
I post these and ask what am I missing or what is wrong with the HDR mode? Like I said in my earlier post, HDR is so dark, unless its a daylight scene, I loose a lot of detail in the scene. Am i misunderstanding what the HDR mode is for and I should be watching all 4k HDR movies in Cinema mode with the HDR color temp? I just assumed the HDR mode with HDR(ST.2084) gamma were ment for 4k HDR movies.

I am new to the projector scene and am trying to understand HDR, WCG, and how it all comes together concerning calibrating or adjusting it for a better picture.

First image will be Cinema mode and second will be HDR. I do have projector menu screen shots with the same scenes if they are wanted for some reason.
I think you have answered your own question. It seems you are not familiar yet with how HDR supposed to look like, selecting Cinema with Gama A etc in an HDR mode will result in a washed out image and that's why they appear brighter but they are incorrect, you need to watch HDR in HDR mode with the correct gamma settings, you can go into the HDR gamma settings and tweak things there and/or in your player's HDR slider area to brighten up the image.

So I don't believe the Xbox One X has a "slide adjuster for HDR. At least none that I could see.

I could bring the Sony UHD player into the room, but would like to use the Xbox One X

What tweaks would be recommended? I have started reading that other thread about HDR, but it is about 2015 models. Some of it does apply.
 
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