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If it looks good to you, that’s what matters. Personally I have mine set to 4K HDR with match frame rate and range turned on. I can live with the extra handshaking and it gives a great picture.


I tried that and the handshaking was killing me. The home screen/ATV interface would be one thing, then the movie menu another then when I would click play it would go from my HDR mode, to my SDR mode, back to my HDR mode, iris cranking back and forth. The last time the iris made a grinding sound I hadn’t heard before. No thanks.

Plus, when I enabled 4:2:2 I got a pop up saying my home ISP wasn’t fast enough. So when I set the HDR to source turns out the ATV was downloading 4k SDR content. My home ISP does stink but we have no other options so I primarily buy disks anyways, but there are some movies I’m just kinda curious about (Justice League) but don’t really want to drop $30 on the disc, so I buy the digital code from the classified forums here and stream those.

So with the ATV upconverting the picture to 4k/HDR/60 it’s watchable, actually surprisingly good and my iris doesn’t get a workout. JL was decent from a visual standpoint, at least as good as a BR, lasers and colors had lots of pop even if they are upconverted. When I REALLY want to watch something I’ll pop in a disc.

I have a proper 7.4.2 Atmos/ceiling setup anyways, so anything less than a disc is a compromise anyways, so I’m buying physical media for a while. Justice League from iTunes is 5.1 only, pitiful compared to a true Atmos soundtrack. If Apple turns on Atmos then I may consider more streaming options.


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Yea, I tried to let him know the sig link was broken. It’s easier to search from a desktop but look for posts from him mentioning v3 curves. The instructions are in that zip file.


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The sig link never was broken. :)

Bytes link on the first page is also not broken.

However I have added the word curves to it, so now its more clear what the link actually is.
 

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When I click on it it goes to the wrong page. Tried on my iPad and desktop.


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Interesting, you on a mac? Works for me on my PC, and my mac.

This is the link in my sig, what happens when you click it? You know you may need to wait a few seconds for the entire page to render, for me, thats at least 3 seconds before it spins down to the actual post.

Note, I directly copied the link short-cut

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/2923938-official-jvc-20ltd-rs640-x990-x9900-rs540-x790-x7900-owners-thread-100.html#post55203652
 

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If you’re not opposed to a little tinkering (and I was at first but now I’m a believer) look at what Javs has posted for his ‘custom’ HDR curves- huge difference. Also, I uploaded Manni’s rec 709 color profile for SDR content- you do that with the JVC autocal software, even if you don’t use a Spyder. I did all three, Spyder, 709 SDR profile and Javs curves, and the picture is outstanding.

there are some recommended settings around here for using the latest beta for the Oppo with the new HDR modes, I haven’t gone that route. But if you already have the Oppo you can probably get similar results with the latest beta, several folks have been really happy with it and it’s a little more user friendly, although I’ve heard some folks have to adjust it for each movie they watch. Check out the Oppo 203 thread, several JVC users over there. We have a couple Oppo users here who can chime in.

It took me some tinkering, an Autocal with a Spyder 5 Express, and some learning with the Arve tool but all said and done it really does take the stock out of the box image up a level. But even out of the box it was a step up for me.


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In which order do you do all 3, I picked up a spider5 pro yesterday, I was reading some stuff about these profiles and even if you factory reset them all you cant get the profiles back, did you backup all the profiles first? before running the Jarvs curves and profiles? just wondering which order i should apply these, also i have a calman license and C6 meter, have u tried any further tweaking after the autocal,profile and curves?
 

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hello guys, looking for someone to help me with a little problem i m facing.

I have the new 2017 Fire TV connected to my onkyo tx-rz710 , when i use the info button on my jvc projector while in menus or when watching any SDR content (netflix, amazon etc...) its shows as its converting HDR to bt2020 SDR and the colors are kind of flat when using my calibrated Natural mode for SDR REC 709 content. is this how it suppose to show sdr ? when using my pc to play netflix the info shows RGB 8bit for sdr and it looks amazing.
On the other end when watching 4k/hdr on the Fire Tv it works as intended and everything looks great. Why is it converting HDR to SDR when the show is in SDR in the first place? there is something i dont get.
I m attaching couple of photos to show the info screen when in the Fire tv menus and when watching SDR , i tried changing settings to RGB and from 8bit to 12bit , whatever setting i change it stays the same.
any help would be nice.

thanks :)
 

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Interesting, you on a mac? Works for me on my PC, and my mac.

This is the link in my sig, what happens when you click it? You know you may need to wait a few seconds for the entire page to render, for me, thats at least 3 seconds before it spins down to the actual post.

Note, I directly copied the link short-cut

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/2923938-official-jvc-20ltd-rs640-x990-x9900-rs540-x790-x7900-owners-thread-100.html#post55203652


On a Mac. Your Sig and the link on the first page of this thread the links go to the totally wrong page. When I click the link you posted it works correctly. Weirdness. I’ll try again now that you’ve renamed it next time in my computer.

EDIT: It’s working since you renamed it. I guess a glitch in the forum?


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In which order do you do all 3, I picked up a spider5 pro yesterday, I was reading some stuff about these profiles and even if you factory reset them all you cant get the profiles back, did you backup all the profiles first? before running the Jarvs curves and profiles? just wondering which order i should apply these, also i have a calman license and C6 meter, have u tried any further tweaking after the autocal,profile and curves?


The only thing that needs to be backed up is the ‘init’ file autocal produces on its first calibration. That’s the factory calibration and you back that file up.

Check out the autocal thread. Even though it’s for 2015 models per title there’s a ton of good info on the first page.

For me- figure out your iris settings for SDR/HDR content. For me that’s -10/-5. I used a light meter- I posted details a few pages back. Figure out what modes you use for various content. I did upload Mannis 709 color profile for SDR. Then I ran full gamma/color autocal for my SDR settings and again for my HDR settings. Use normal gamma to calibrate. Do it with CMD on and off. So 4 calibrations for me.

Javs curves can be installed before or after. They are based off your normal gamma curve, so they will be affected by autocal but you don’t have to redo them after an autocal.

I fine tuned my SDR just a hair with Disney WOW disc. I don’t have a cal man.


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Solution to loss of sync with fan switch on RS640?

I'm working through various challenges with my HT system setup with a JVC RS640U, one of which is my refurb Denon AVR-X6400H is in the shop... Another of which is that my old Onkyo spare receiver's HDMI out stopped working!

BUT... The problem bothering me the most at the moment is that changing the 4-position ceiling fan speed, or turning on/off, in the HT room causes an audible pop in my speakers and causes the projector to drop sync... And sometimes it doesn't re-sync and I have to cycle power. on the projector. (At the moment the HDMI runs from a DirecTV Genie mini to the projector and I'm using the digital out for sound.) Surge/power protection equipment listed below.

Looking for suggestions as how to prevent the loss of sync, the HT rooms gets hot and I often want to change the fan speed!

Is there reasonably priced power protection equipment that would prevent this; I understand fan motor on/off is a common problem in circuits?
It it possible a better/different fan switch would help? I'm sure the builder used the cheapest switch available...

Thanks!


  • Tripp Lite 1 Outlet Portable Surge Protector on the projector (suggestions for something better welcome for ceiling mount)
  • Furman PST-8 SMP EVS LiFT 15-Amp Aluminum Chassis 8-Outlet Cable (all equipment except projector)
  • RUIPRO HDMI Fiber Cable 50 (projector to source)
 

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If you find the black levels are wrong, best check this with an HDR pattern, then you need to type ‘ga’ then ‘bbo’ after you use the ‘lf’ command and play with the values (these default to 0.0016 - try 0.002 to make the blacks brighter, and 0.001 to make them darker etc...)

That scenario would look like this:

I'm i bit worried doing this wrong. If i open the Arve tool and load e.g. the 4000nitv3 configuration, the tool shows:
bbo Set black brightness out: 0.004 (Effective 0.021621621621621623)

i found using Masciola's pattern that the bars with numbers 81 and up, are showing, but the lower ones are not visible.
So my guess is i need to raise brightness using the bbo command?
Now, if i want to raise the brightness using bbo, should i enter a number larger then 0.004 or a number larger then the effective nr, 0.0216...? And how much larger?
 

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I'm i bit worried doing this wrong. If i open the Arve tool and load e.g. the 4000nitv3 configuration, the tool shows:
bbo Set black brightness out: 0.004 (Effective 0.021621621621621623)

i found using Masciola's pattern that the bars with numbers 81 and up, are showing, but the lower ones are not visible.
So my guess is i need to raise brightness using the bbo command?
Now, if i want to raise the brightness using bbo, should i enter a number larger then 0.004 or a number larger then the effective nr, 0.0216...? And how much larger?
I have an RS-420 and I'm at .001 with the iris at -4 for HDR on a 1.0 gain 120" screen with low lamp. At .004 even 64 is flashing. Originally I had the iris fully open for HDR but the highlights were blindingly bright so I clamped it down a bit to reclaim more shadow detail. I may try to go down as far as -6 later tonight. My room is not a bat cave (yet). You should have superior black levels compared to the 420 so something is not correct either with the player or the environment if you can only see 81 at .004. Make sure your JVC brightness control is at 0 and that there are no luminance adjustments set in the device you're playing the patterns on. Also ensure the dynamic iris is disabled while you make the adjustments.

To answer your specific question, larger numbers increase the brightness and lower numbers decrease them. From .004 if you go to .005 the brightness increases and if you go to .003 it decreases.
 

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I'll give it a try tonight. Another question, how do you guys handle the very short duration of the (masciola) testpattern? it only plays for a minute, and you lose the first 20-30 seconds on resolution changes and switching to the right HDR mode... do you pause it?
 

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You downloaded terrarium tv correct ;) Along with mobdro ?
excuse my ignorance but i m not familiar with these 2 and downloading them would affect and solve my problem?

thanks for ur help really
 

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I'll give it a try tonight. Another question, how do you guys handle the very short duration of the (masciola) testpattern? it only plays for a minute, and you lose the first 20-30 seconds on resolution changes and switching to the right HDR mode... do you pause it?


I pause it with the bars showing. Get it close, and then when I’m dialed in let it flash to be sure. But I keep hitting back. The patterns are too short.

I had to go 0.0005 to get it dark enough but I’ve got it where 68 is just barely starting to think about being visible. I decided to err on more blacks vs raised floor.

Make sure your iris is on manual as well.


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I'm i bit worried doing this wrong. If i open the Arve tool and load e.g. the 4000nitv3 configuration, the tool shows:
bbo Set black brightness out: 0.004 (Effective 0.021621621621621623)

i found using Masciola's pattern that the bars with numbers 81 and up, are showing, but the lower ones are not visible.
So my guess is i need to raise brightness using the bbo command?
Now, if i want to raise the brightness using bbo, should i enter a number larger then 0.004 or a number larger then the effective nr, 0.0216...? And how much larger?
I don't feel totally confident I have bbo set right either, but I'm using the hidden Sony patterns. In order to get 0.005 barely visible, I need to set bbo in the 0.030 range which doesn't seem to raise my black floor so I guess this isn't to high? If I set bbo so bar 0.001 is barely showing which is the bar just above the 0.000 bar my black floor is clearly raised so I'm thinking having 0.005 barely showing is correct?
 
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