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Profiles?

How do you save a profile and more importantly, how do you get back to it?
I would want a profile for
UHD/4k, low lamp
BluRay (1080p) low lamp

Would I need a different profile if I was upscaling 1080P to 4K
Hope to be able to create macros on remote to choose different profiles depending on what I am watching
thanks
dan
 

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How do you save a profile and more importantly, how do you get back to it?
I would want a profile for
UHD/4k, low lamp
BluRay (1080p) low lamp

Would I need a different profile if I was upscaling 1080P to 4K
Hope to be able to create macros on remote to choose different profiles depending on what I am watching
thanks
dan
You just go into one of the user memories, and set it up how you like it for a given purpose. And then setup a different user memory for a different purpose. For example you could set up User1 for SDR, and User2 for HDR. That's probably all you'll need. And you can rename them so you don't have to remember what's for what.

FWIW I don't have my 640 yet, but I think it's got a special memory for HDR, so you probably want to use that for HDR rather than "User2".
 

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Discussion Starter #623
I'm assuming you have the X990?

You can download Arve's curves. But for me, on the X990, all I had to do with the gamma st2084 setting was set (only on white) Tone to +4, Dark Level +4, and Brightness +4. This gave me an image that was nothing short of excellence! -- and applicable to varying HDR material as well. The glint from metal objects looked realistic with dramatic pop and color, while blacks stayed inky and shadow detail abounded!

Simply put, this is the best HDR performance I've seen from any projector, anywhere, really. And you should be seeing the same. (It's not so much the increase in brightness, but I'm still floored by how good the black levels and contrast are on this thing. Amazing! And I'm coming from a JVC X750.) I think people are going to be thrilled with the X990 once they set up HDR properly. :)
Why not leave Bright level at 0 or a (-) value and raise picture tone more? Seems like by doing that you get greater apl thru the rest of the image, while reducing the crush of on the higher end of the grayscale range. That's how I got to Picture tone +12, bright level -4
 

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You just go into one of the user memories, and set it up how you like it for a given purpose. And then setup a different user memory for a different purpose. For example you could set up User1 for SDR, and User2 for HDR. That's probably all you'll need. And you can rename them so you don't have to remember what's for what.

FWIW I don't have my 640 yet, but I think it's got a special memory for HDR, so you probably want to use that for HDR rather than "User2".
For my setup / use pattern, I'll likely set up two additional equivalent ones with lens shift for HD vs. WS (16x9 versus 2.xx : 1 / 'cinema') aspect ratios.

I like to drop the image to the bottom of the screen for movies rather than leave it higher / centered.

Used to do this with a Lumagen for the RS35, but I don't see the, significant, expense of buying/upgrading to a 4k capable Lumagen to be worth it for the RS640.

Although, it would be nice to use a Lumagen to shift the image all the way to the top and then use JVC lens shift to move it all down. Thereby resulting in all the 'out of image' light falling off-screen onto non-reflective black.

Diminishing returns. Too much so for me for the kilo-bucks involved. :)
 

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Simply put, this is the best HDR performance I've seen from any projector, anywhere, really. And you should be seeing the same. (It's not so much the increase in brightness, but I'm still floored by how good the black levels and contrast are on this thing. Amazing! And I'm coming from a JVC X750.) I think people are going to be thrilled with the X990 once they set up HDR properly. :)[/QUOTE]

Stop saying that, I had the rs640 on preorder and it was ready and I decided to go sony 385es. Im sure the jvc will be spectacular since I'm going sony. I have an rs600 and think I'm going to miss the brighter image.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
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Diminishing returns. Too much so for me for the kilo-bucks involved. :)
I was pretty close to getting a Pro shortly after I got my RS600 for the HDR calibration aspect. Fortunately things have evolved since then. Can't say I'm glad I didn't get one, because I wish I had one, but I don't regret not spending that money then.
 

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You just go into one of the user memories, and set it up how you like it for a given purpose. And then setup a different user memory for a different purpose. For example you could set up User1 for SDR, and User2 for HDR. That's probably all you'll need. And you can rename them so you don't have to remember what's for what.

FWIW I don't have my 640 yet, but I think it's got a special memory for HDR, so you probably want to use that for HDR rather than "User2".
By user memories, you are not talking about the (3) memories on the remote..are you?
I thought they were for lens memories i.e aspect etc
thanks
I don't have mine yet either, just confusing myself with the manual
dan
 

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By user memories, you are not talking about the (3) memories on the remote..are you?
I thought they were for lens memories i.e aspect etc
thanks
I don't have mine yet either, just confusing myself with the manual
dan
IIRC, three have dedicated buttons on the remote. But there are ten total available.

== edit
Oh, and those store, can store, more than just lens settings. Again, IIRC from reading the manual. (Still waiting for my RS640 to ship.)
 

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Why not leave Bright level at 0 or a (-) value and raise picture tone more? Seems like by doing that you get greater apl thru the rest of the image, while reducing the crush of on the higher end of the grayscale range. That's how I got to Picture tone +12, bright level -4
That's a great point, and I had tried that, but preferred +4, +4, +4. To my eyes, the black floor didn't budge but raising the ceiling opened up more detail and dimension.
 

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Stop saying that, I had the rs640 on preorder and it was ready and I decided to go sony 385es. Im sure the jvc will be spectacular since I'm going sony. I have an rs600 and think I'm going to miss the brighter image.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Since, you already have the RS600, I could see why you went with the 385. I demo'd a few of the Sony 6xx series, and I can tell you that with this Eshift 5...well, okay, so we could talk about patterns all we want, and that's fair game; but with real content/material, Eshift 5 truly tricks me into believing I'm watching native 4K now.

Still, I have to say the Sonys I demo'd were nice, and the 385 with its dynamic iris for better contrast should be similar in many ways to the 6xx's. The Sonys project that airbrushed, softer look that exudes a calmness to their images, along with a smooth appearance with motion. With the two brands, you now have a nice selection.
 

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Discussion Starter #632
That's a great point, and I had tried that, but preferred +4, +4, +4. To my eyes, the black floor didn't budge but but raising the ceiling opened up more detail and dimension.
Thanks aztar. I will take your 444 settings a spin. :)
 

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I would like to try your settings, but I don't know
1. what (only on white) means
2. Is st2084 the UHD color space?
3. what settings do you use for 1080P (if you don't wish to upscale to 4k)
thanks
dan
1)"White" is the tint setting (along with colors red, blue, and green) in the st2084 gamma profile.

2) St.2084 is just a gamma setting for UHD w/HDR.

3) I think User 1 and Natural look good. For 1080P with 4K scaling off in PJ: User 1, input Standard, All Motion Enhancements off, MPC Enhance 2 only, low lamp, clear black low, iris at -4 or -10 with Auto 1 dynamic setting. I haven't enough hours on the unit to run a calibration. CMS turn on only.
 

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1)"White" is the tint setting (along with colors red, blue, and green) in the st2084 gamma profile.

2) St.2084 is just a gamma setting for UHD w/HDR.

3) I think User 1 and Natural look good. For 1080P with 4K scaling off in PJ: User 1, input Standard, All Motion Enhancements off, MPC Enhance 2 only, low lamp, clear black low, iris at -4 or -10 with Auto 1 dynamic setting. I haven't enough hours on the unit to run a calibration. CMS turn on only.
I know that it defaults to THX mode. Is that not a good option for general 1080P viewing? When would you want to use that mode?
 

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1)"White" is the tint setting (along with colors red, blue, and green) in the st2084 gamma profile.

2) St.2084 is just a gamma setting for UHD w/HDR.

3) I think User 1 and Natural look good. For 1080P with 4K scaling off in PJ: User 1, input Standard, All Motion Enhancements off, MPC Enhance 2 only, low lamp, clear black low, iris at -4 or -10 with Auto 1 dynamic setting. I haven't enough hours on the unit to run a calibration. CMS turn on only.
thanks, I will try those
dan
 

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Discussion Starter #636 (Edited)
I know that it defaults to THX mode. Is that not a good option for general 1080P viewing? When would you want to use that mode?
The THX mode locks in both the color and gamma options, and maybe locks the iris in manual mode as well. It is a safe place to start until you have a reason to explore variations from that setup. Simply adjust the primary contrast and brightness to the edge of SDR white and dark crush, dial in the manual iris on a 100% WHITE field and you're ready to rock.

It really is worth checking out ALL of the other picture mode options. Most of them have their own specific options (such as Xenon 1,2 &3) for some of the settings like color temp, which are subtle variations from the standard 5500/6500/7500/9500 color temp options.

One thing I'd note, where as 7500K color temp might usually provide a slightly brighter perceived brightness, 6500K seems to be factory calibrated for the max lumen output. Maybe this could be tweaked with some custom RGB gain/offset settings for 7500K and 9500K, but so far my observations supports sticking with 6500K.

I agree with aztar, the Natural picture mode is also a very good place to start. Try the 6500k, the Reference color setting, pick a gamma, and tweak the main Contrast and Brightness to SDR black and white crush points. And then you really are dialed in for any HD source. I have not played much with the custom gamma controls with SDR sources, sticking with Standard, A, B & C options for now. Once I am able to calibrate, I'll check out the limited gamma tweaks available for SDR.

Calibrating for HDR is were there is much greater flexibility and control over the gamma, and how gamma adjustments relate the main contrast and brightness being kept at or very close to zero settings. For now I have the gamma dialed in by eye for white and dark crush points, but have no idea what my gamma track measures. I'll address this once I can calibrate.

Don't be afraid to explore. Pick a movie and experiment.

Also, if you don't have a calibration disc for SDR and HDR, seriously consider picking some up. There is no substitute for accurate test patterns for adjusting even the most basic things like white and dark crush points.

I have the Ted's LightSpace disc for SDR and the Diversified HDR10 H.265 download for HDR. I have older SD and HD calibrations discs, but Ted's LightSpace allows for very fast navigation thru the test patterns.
 

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thx is a pretty good starting point I would think. it doesnt lock the iris in manual. and wiht a little bit of setup contrast brightness, there is some gamma adjustment and colour to eye. dial in iris to set for output and should look pretty good for SDR
 

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The THX mode locks in both the color and gamma options, and maybe locks the iris in manual mode as well. It is a safe place to start until you have a reason to explore variations from that setup. Simply adjust the primary contrast and brightness to the edge of SDR white and dark crush, dial in the manual iris on a 100% WHITE field and you're ready to rock.

It really is worth checking out ALL of the other picture mode options. Most of them have their own specific options (such as Xenon 1,2 &3) for some of the settings like color temp, which are subtle variations from the standard 5500/6500/7500/9500 color temp options.

One thing I'd note, where as 7500K color temp might usually provide a slightly brighter perceived brightness, 6500K seems to be factory calibrated for the max lumen output. Maybe this could be tweaked with some custom RGB gain/offset settings for 7500K and 9500K, but so far my observations supports sticking with 6500K.

I agree with aztar, the Natural picture mode is also a very good place to start. Try the 6500k, the Reference color setting, pick a gamma, and tweak the main Contrast and Brightness to SDR black and white crush points. And then you really are dialed in for any HD source. I have not played much with the custom gamma controls with SDR sources, sticking with Standard, A, B & C options for now. Once I am able to calibrate, I'll check out the limited gamma tweaks available for SDR.

Calibrating for HDR is were there is much greater flexibility and control over the gamma, and how gamma adjustments relate the main contrast and brightness being kept at or very close to zero settings. For now I have the gamma dialed in by eye for white and dark crush points, but have no idea what my gamma track measures. I'll address this once I can calibrate.

Don't be afraid to explore. Pick a movie and experiment.

Also, if you don't have a calibration disc for SDR and HDR, seriously consider picking some up. There is no substitute for accurate test patterns for adjusting even the most basic things like white and dark crush points.

I have the Ted's LightSpace disc for SDR and the Diversified HDR10 H.265 download for HDR. I have older SD and HD calibrations discs, but Ted's LightSpace allows for very fast navigation thru the test patterns.
What do you mean by "dial in the manual iris on a 100% white field"?
What am I looking for on a 100% white field
thanks
dan
 

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Discussion Starter #639
The THX mode locks in both the color and gamma options, and maybe locks the iris in manual mode as well. It is a safe place to start until you have a reason to explore variations from that setup. Simply adjust the primary contrast and brightness to the edge of SDR white and dark crush, dial in the manual iris on a 100% WHITE field and you're ready to rock.

It really is worth checking out ALL of the other picture mode options. Most of them have their own specific options (such as Xenon 1,2 &3) for some of the settings like color temp, which are subtle variations from the standard 5500/6500/7500/9500 color temp options.

One thing I'd note, where as 7500K color temp might usually provide a slightly brighter perceived brightness, 6500K seems to be factory calibrated for the max lumen output. Maybe this could be tweaked with some custom RGB gain/offset settings for 7500K and 9500K, but so far my observations supports sticking with 6500K.

I agree with aztar, the Natural picture mode is also a very good place to start. Try the 6500k, the Reference color setting, pick a gamma, and tweak the main Contrast and Brightness to SDR black and white crush points. And then you really are dialed in for any HD source. I have not played much with the custom gamma controls with SDR sources, sticking with Standard, A, B & C options for now. Once I am able to calibrate, I'll check out the limited gamma tweaks available for SDR.

Calibrating for HDR is were there is much greater flexibility and control over the gamma, and how gamma adjustments relate the main contrast and brightness being kept at or very close to zero settings. For now I have the gamma dialed in by eye for white and dark crush points, but have no idea what my gamma track measures. I'll address this once I can calibrate.

Don't be afraid to explore. Pick a movie and experiment.

Also, if you don't have a calibration disc for SDR and HDR, seriously consider picking some up. There is no substitute for accurate test patterns for adjusting even the most basic things like white and dark crush points.

I have the Ted's LightSpace disc for SDR and the Diversified HDR10 H.265 download for HDR. I have older SD and HD calibrations discs, but Ted's LightSpace allows for very fast navigation thru the test patterns.
What do you mean by "dial in the manual iris on a 100% white field"?
What am I looking for on a 100% white field
thanks
dan
Some folks like to use the manual iris to reduce the lumen output, which also reduces the black level on a movie black out. Folks have reported dialing the manual iris back to -6 or more. This can be very helpful when projecting on smaller screens.
 

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Some folks like to use the manual iris to reduce the lumen output, which also reduces the black level on a movie black out. Folks have reported dialing the manual iris back to -6 or more. This can be very helpful when projecting on smaller screens.
thanks,
I have a 106"diag , dalite high power screen. PJ will be ceiling mounted though and at about 19'.
Still should get pretty high lumens, hoping to be able to do HDR with low lamp
dan
 
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