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Do most of you use Auto 1 or Auto 2 for your iris setting?

Used to be that everybody used Auto 2, but I sense a shift to Auto 1. I'm curious why.
 

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Discussion Starter #8,622 (Edited)
Why would the projector convert a 4k input to 1080p?
Thats my understanding how it works. The eshift process computes thevveshift offset from an 1080 images, using tgge surrounding pixels. When the source is 4k, it has to remap 4k pixels to the eshift number of pixels.

Computing the eshift from native 4k pixels is one thing. Computing eshift from an upscaling of a 2k sources would be computing of the 4k version of OPPOs bet guess of a 4k image. Seems like an extra step that just adds more guessing. Feeding an up scaled 4k image to a native 4k panel? Sure. Feeding an upscaled 4k image to a lower res eshift panel? Hmmmm...

I need to test with a 1080p brown fox pattern.
 

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I've spent a number of hours consuming this thread/some other calibration threads/some Madvr threads.. Here's what I've gathered - please let me know if I'm off base..


For calibration: Spyder 5 is a bad idea - use i1Display Pro instead.


Other users that have set up a 3D LUT - are they using i1Display Pro? Or is there another, better option out there?


Are there any tips for using i1Display Pro?


Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #8,624
I've spent a number of hours consuming this thread/some other calibration threads/some Madvr threads.. Here's what I've gathered - please let me know if I'm off base..


For calibration: Spyder 5 is a bad idea - use i1Display Pro instead.


Other users that have set up a 3D LUT - are they using i1Display Pro? Or is there another, better option out there?


Are there any tips for using i1Display Pro?


Thanks for the help!
My understand is both the S5 and i1Dpro need to be profiled to be reliable. Then the next consideration is how long that profile will remain accurate and this is where the i1Dpro will last longer due to the structual design.

Chad will profile my S5 and then i will take steps to store the sensor to help delay any negative environmental effects.
 

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Thats my understanding how it works. The eshift process computes thevveshift offset from an 1080 images, using tgge surrounding pixels. When the source is 4k, it has to remap 4k pixels to the eshift number of pixels.

Computing the eshift from native 4k pixels is one thing. Computing eshift from an upscaling of a 2k sources would be computing of the 4k version of OPPOs bet guess of a 4k image. Seems like an extra step that just adds more guessing. Feeding an up scaled 4k image to a native 4k panel? Sure. Feeding an upscaled 4k image to a lower res eshift panel? Hmmmm...

I need to test with a 1080p brown fox pattern.
That's where you are not quite right..

Feeding the JVC a 4k input signal (upscale your 2k blurays externally) is far far better in terms of resolution and detail than feeding 1080p.

If you feed 1080p to the JVC turn off eshift because it's totally useless in that case.

The JVC legitimately has 50% more detail and resolution capability when fed a 4k input .

The oppo is a pretty good upscaler, the Panasonic even better.

Just turn off the sharpening with the oppo and you won't have problems. The Panasonic sharpening is very good in moderation
 

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My understand is both the S5 and i1Dpro need to be profiled to be reliable. Then the next consideration is how long that profile will remain accurate and this is where the i1Dpro will last longer due to the structual design.

Chad will profile my S5 and then i will take steps to store the sensor to help delay any negative environmental effects.
I think I have read every post in this thread and have come to the conclusion that I am going to use your recommended cal settings and be done with it. If after a couple hundred hours I am not loving it I will go MADVR.

Just a couple questions with your recommended settings.

1) For SDR, which Gamma setting would you recommend if you prefer the brightest/most vivid (within reason) over more accurate?
2) Would keeping low latency mode on all the time mess with your settings?
3) Why you chose auto 1 vs auto 2 on the lens aperture?
4) For HDR, why you prefer the 3rd st2084 option, and once again, which would be the st2084 setting to yield the brightest pop in HDR?


Thanks in advance. You are truly an invaluable resource
 

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My understand is both the S5 and i1Dpro need to be profiled to be reliable. Then the next consideration is how long that profile will remain accurate and this is where the i1Dpro will last longer due to the structual design.

Chad will profile my S5 and then i will take steps to store the sensor to help delay any negative environmental effects.
I wasn't able to get my i1 pro to be detected by JVC autocal. Maybe didn't try hard enough? My work flow is to use a Spyder 5 with autocal, then switch to my recently calibrated i1 and adjust greyscale and gamut tracking.
 

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That's where you are not quite right..

Feeding the JVC a 4k input signal (upscale your 2k blurays externally) is far far better in terms of resolution and detail than feeding 1080p.

If you feed 1080p to the JVC turn off eshift because it's totally useless in that case.

The JVC legitimately has 50% more detail and resolution capability when fed a 4k input .

The oppo is a pretty good upscaler, the Panasonic even better.

Just turn off the sharpening with the oppo and you won't have problems. The Panasonic sharpening is very good in moderation
Would you recommend having my Denon 6400 do the upscaling? If so what Should I then set the 4k to on my JVC?
 

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Would you recommend having my Denon 6400 do the upscaling? If so what Should I then set the 4k to on my JVC?
Nope. Avr upscaling is horrendous.

:)

What player are you using?
 

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I wasn't able to get my i1 pro to be detected by JVC autocal. Maybe didn't try hard enough? My work flow is to use a Spyder 5 with autocal, then switch to my recently calibrated i1 and adjust greyscale and gamut tracking.
Assuming you’re referring to the i1Pro spectro:
It’s not listed by JVC as a supported meter, but when I tried it autocal identifies it as an i1Pro2 which is supported.
The trick is to start with a meter self-calibration, which autocal does do but it does not prompt the user. You have to place the meter on its calibration tile when clicking on the icon, then move it to the measuring position after autocal detects that it’s been calibrated.
 

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movies will be from my HTPC through KODI. No MADVR setup yet (looks daunting). PC has a 1050ti.

Videogames and the very rare physical media movie will be theough my xbox one x.
I use Kodi too, though MadVR is running the video, its a fork of Kodi called DSPlayer.

You should have a look at using Kodi for the upscaling. The built in upscaling there would be better than an AVR. But not as good as the external players available and not as good as MadVR. You dont really have the horsepower in a GPU to use MadVR to its full potential but you may have some luck using it with lower settings. I would still look into it if I were you.

You can get DSPlayer here:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/aa08ghuxc9e5p2w/kodi-17.6-Krypton_DSPlayer-x86.exe

And I have my MadVR settings in my sig. You could try that, but anywhere it says NGU, try something like Jinc instead. Might work for you.
 

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I use Kodi too, though MadVR is running the video, its a fork of Kodi called DSPlayer.

You should have a look at using Kodi for the upscaling. The built in upscaling there would be better than an AVR. But not as good as the external players available and not as good as MadVR. You dont really have the horsepower in a GPU to use MadVR to its full potential but you may have some luck using it with lower settings. I would still look into it if I were you.

You can get DSPlayer here:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/aa08ghuxc9e5p2w/kodi-17.6-Krypton_DSPlayer-x86.exe

And I have my MadVR settings in my sig. You could try that, but anywhere it says NGU, try something like Jinc instead. Might work for you.
awesome...thanks! Would I be better off with a 1060? I know I would a 1080ti would be even better but if 1050ti-1060 is a leap I could make the change.
 

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awesome...thanks! Would I be better off with a 1060? I know I would a 1080ti would be even better but if 1050ti-1060 is a leap I could make the change.
Not sure, you would have to look at benchmarks.

GFLOPS is what you need.
 

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Hey all...I just got the projector up (790r) on the ceiling. When I feed it a 4k source it plays it in 1080 and when I manually switch resolution it goes to a blank screen then switches back to 1080. I tried to switch my resolution on my nvidia control panel to 3840 x 2160 but it keeps going blank and tells me that 1920 x 1080 is native. I then went to my xbox one x and it said "detected 4k signal but when I got to switch it over it gives me an error. I am thinking this may be an issue with the HDMI from my AVR to the projector but I would rather check everything else before I run that HDMI.

1) I ran this HDMI
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKBWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from my 1050Ti
to my AVR (Denon 6300). My AVR is set to pass through. And my Projector is set to 4k e-shift on and graphic mode 4k.

2) Then I tried my XBOX ONE X. It immediately asked me if I wanted to switch to 4k but when I do it goes blank and says it isnt working.
- on the "4k tv info" on Xbox it says my display meets all requirements for HDR, 4K 60hz, etc. It just won't let me switch it.


Anything I am missing, guys?
 

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Hey all...I just got the projector up (790r) on the ceiling. When I feed it a 4k source it plays it in 1080 and when I manually switch resolution it goes to a blank screen then switches back to 1080. I tried to switch my resolution on my nvidia control panel to 3840 x 2160 but it keeps going blank and tells me that 1920 x 1080 is native. I then went to my xbox one x and it said "detected 4k signal but when I got to switch it over it gives me an error. I am thinking this may be an issue with the HDMI from my AVR to the projector but I would rather check everything else before I run that HDMI.

1) I ran this HDMI
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKBWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from my 1050Ti
to my AVR (Denon 6300). My AVR is set to pass through. And my Projector is set to 4k e-shift on and graphic mode 4k.

2) Then I tried my XBOX ONE X. It immediately asked me if I wanted to switch to 4k but when I do it goes blank and says it isnt working.
- on the "4k tv info" on Xbox it says my display meets all requirements for HDR, 4K 60hz, etc. It just won't let me switch it.


Anything I am missing, guys?
I bet it’s the cable from your AVR to your projector. This sounds like what’s happened to me (even with certified premium cables) that are just a bit too long. FWIW I plan to switch my HDMI over Ethernet balun (which is good for 10.2Gbps) to an active fiber optic HDMI cable once I need 18Gbps so I feel your pain.
 

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I bet it’s the cable from your AVR to your projector. This sounds like what’s happened to me (even with certified premium cables) that are just a bit too long. FWIW I plan to switch my HDMI over Ethernet balun (which is good for 10.2Gbps) to an active fiber optic HDMI cable once I need 18Gbps so I feel your pain.
It 100% was. Got a new one and fixed it immediately. Thanks for the reply!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
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