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Spent a few hours with the 790r. Here's my initial thoughts.

Good stuff:
-HDR is plenty bright and vivid using the recommendations on the first page. Honestly I was VERY surprised at how bright it was.
-black levels are nice. Negates the need for the masking panels I was going to construct.
-low latency mode.for gaming is great. Used to lose a lot of PQ when using game mode on my Sony 45ES
-xbox one x looks great playing games.


Meh stuff:
- noticing some noise/grainy distortion? Especially on the faces of people...anyone have any recommendations?

That's really all for now. Setup was a breeze once I got the right cable.

Side note. I am SHOCKED at how ****ty some titles in HDR are compared to others. Blade runner 2049 followed by Solo: A Star Wars story was insane.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Spent a few hours with the 790r. Here's my initial thoughts.

Good stuff:
-HDR is plenty bright and vivid using the recommendations on the first page. Honestly I was VERY surprised at how bright it was.
-black levels are nice. Negates the need for the masking panels I was going to construct.
-low latency mode.for gaming is great. Used to lose a lot of PQ when using game mode on my Sony 45ES
-xbox one x looks great playing games.


Meh stuff:
- noticing some noise/grainy distortion? Especially on the faces of people...anyone have any recommendations?

That's really all for now. Setup was a breeze once I got the right cable.

Side note. I am SHOCKED at how ****ty some titles in HDR are compared to others. Blade runner 2049 followed by Solo: A Star Wars story was insane.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
For the noise, check your enhancement setting and dial it back.
 

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Spent a few hours with the 790r. Here's my initial thoughts.

Side note. I am SHOCKED at how ****ty some titles in HDR are compared to others. Blade runner 2049 followed by Solo: A Star Wars story was insane.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Isn't that the truth. And just wait til you sample some crappy streaming HDR as featured on Netflix originals. The DPs on Iron First / Punisher / Lost in Space are quite possibly blind.
 
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I am guessing you are dealing with Peter.

BLOOD FROM A STONE.

Keep on them every two days mate, call them, dont email. Took me 5 months to get a refund on my 9900 after the two unit fiasco I went through. It was INSANELY frustrating that it eventually came down to be stonewalled by one man.
So it sounds like my X7900 has been fixed, but the service agent tells me they've fitted an Illumination Iris Unit that didn't come from Japan. Has anyone heard of this? Should I be concerned?

Edit: Now I'm told it is from Japan. I was looking for some after-market manufacturer called Illumination for a bit there :p
 

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So it sounds like my X7900 has been fixed, but the service agent tells me they've fitted an Illumination Iris Unit that didn't come from Japan. Has anyone heard of this? Should I be concerned?

Edit: Now I'm told it is from Japan. I was looking for some after-market manufacturer called Illumination for a bit there :p
So it does look like it was a dead lamp iris. Glad you got sorted (eventually).

I had mine replaced with a brand new unit. Eshift a little quieter, lens / convergence good, but brighter corners. I don't think they are anything out of the ordinary now I have the screen up but they are annoying if I look for them, they are visible in real content.

You are damned if you do and damned if you don't with these units because of the inter-unit variation. Either you wait an age to get a repair and get back (hopefully) a unit as good as what you had, or you get replaced quicker but run the product lottery.

I really hope they have improved the inter-unit variation on the newer model.
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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Thats my understanding how it works. The eshift process computes thevveshift offset from an 1080 images, using tgge surrounding pixels. When the source is 4k, it has to remap 4k pixels to the eshift number of pixels.

Computing the eshift from native 4k pixels is one thing. Computing eshift from an upscaling of a 2k sources would be computing of the 4k version of OPPOs bet guess of a 4k image. Seems like an extra step that just adds more guessing. Feeding an up scaled 4k image to a native 4k panel? Sure. Feeding an upscaled 4k image to a lower res eshift panel? Hmmmm...

I need to test with a 1080p brown fox pattern.
This use to be how it worked on eshift2 or maybe even eshift3. It no longer works this way. Eshift4 takes the full 4K source and calculates how to create the eshifted image by looking at "part of" the image. Eshift5 takes the full 4K source and calculates how to create the eshifted image by looking at "all of" the image.
 

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So it does look like it was a dead lamp iris. Glad you got sorted (eventually).

I had mine replaced with a brand new unit. Eshift a little quieter, lens / convergence good, but brighter corners. I don't think they are anything out of the ordinary now I have the screen up but they are annoying if I look for them, they are visible in real content.

You are damned if you do and damned if you don't with these units because of the inter-unit variation. Either you wait an age to get a repair and get back (hopefully) a unit as good as what you had, or you get replaced quicker but run the product lottery.

I really hope they have improved the inter-unit variation on the newer model.
That's the way I'm looking at it now. I was a bit disappointed as it felt like I bought a faulty unit only to have to get it fixed immediately. I might as well have bought second-hand. But now that the iris is fixed I'm quite happy with the other features of the unit. I'm no expert but it's quiet, has good convergence to my eyes and is uniform from corner to corner. I've been testing it all evening and it hasn't faltered yet so onwards and upwards :)

Thanks for your efforts tracking this bobof.
 

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Hey all...I just got the projector up (790r) on the ceiling. When I feed it a 4k source it plays it in 1080 and when I manually switch resolution it goes to a blank screen then switches back to 1080. I tried to switch my resolution on my nvidia control panel to 3840 x 2160 but it keeps going blank and tells me that 1920 x 1080 is native. I then went to my xbox one x and it said "detected 4k signal but when I got to switch it over it gives me an error. I am thinking this may be an issue with the HDMI from my AVR to the projector but I would rather check everything else before I run that HDMI.

1) I ran this HDMI
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKBWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from my 1050Ti
to my AVR (Denon 6300). My AVR is set to pass through. And my Projector is set to 4k e-shift on and graphic mode 4k.

2) Then I tried my XBOX ONE X. It immediately asked me if I wanted to switch to 4k but when I do it goes blank and says it isnt working.
- on the "4k tv info" on Xbox it says my display meets all requirements for HDR, 4K 60hz, etc. It just won't let me switch it.


Anything I am missing, guys?
All the cables need to meet the spec so it's probably that one. Short length cables are usually not a problem. How long is the run from the AVR to the 790?
 

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I use Kodi too, though MadVR is running the video, its a fork of Kodi called DSPlayer.

You should have a look at using Kodi for the upscaling. The built in upscaling there would be better than an AVR. But not as good as the external players available and not as good as MadVR. You dont really have the horsepower in a GPU to use MadVR to its full potential but you may have some luck using it with lower settings. I would still look into it if I were you.
Kodi upscalers are actually good?

Side note. I am SHOCKED at how ****ty some titles in HDR are compared to others. Blade runner 2049 followed by Solo: A Star Wars story was insane.
No question about that :(
 

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It 100% was. Got a new one and fixed it immediately. Thanks for the reply!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
What cable did you switch to? What length were both cables?

I believe I am also having cable issues but am not sure if something else is going on because it is so hard to get the thing going again after an incident. Not sure if I should be asking here, or in the Oppo thread, or the HDMI cable thread...

I have been running my projector with the OPPO 203 connected directly using the 6 foot premium cable that came with it. I ultimately want the oppo further away, so I bought the Monoprice HOSS cable in 30 feet length based on recommendations in this thread for the 50 foot version. I ran the cable for a few days with the Oppo still next to the projector up on the rear shelf, with the HOSS cable coiled up, and it ran fine. I forced the Oppo output to 4K60 4:4:4 12bit on a movie and watched it through with no incidents and watched other random content at normal settings for a day or three, still no issues.

When I ran the cable across the room it also seemed to work initially, but then got squirrelly: I was testing a 3d bluray (settings on auto) and about 3 minutes into it the screen went blank and the projector reported no input. I pulled out and reseated the cable, no change. Tried with and without flexible pigtails, no change. I tried another long cable into HDMI 2 and it still said no input. Tried swapping JVC input setting from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 and back a couple times, no change. Restarted the Oppo, still the same. pulled power on Oppo and projector and restarted, still no input with either cable. Tried my 1080p TiVo straight into projector and it picked that up without issue. I moved the Oppo to another room and hooked it up to a 1080p tv and it started normal. I changed the output to 1080p auto and moved it back to the other room, and it started up okay with the HOSS cable. ran the Tivo through the passthrough input on the Oppo and it played for a few minutes at 1080p60 then blanked out again. Again there was no way to get any input to work so I had to move the Oppo to the other room and reset the output again. I gave up and moved it back to the shelf with the short cable. (and it worked for the hour I had it on)

What I don't understand is why I couldn't get it to reset at all, with power pulled, or changing inputs. It just won't handshake again?

What cable can I rely on in the 20-30 foot range?
 

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What cable did you switch to? What length were both cables?

I believe I am also having cable issues but am not sure if something else is going on because it is so hard to get the thing going again after an incident. Not sure if I should be asking here, or in the Oppo thread, or the HDMI cable thread...

I have been running my projector with the OPPO 203 connected directly using the 6 foot premium cable that came with it. I ultimately want the oppo further away, so I bought the Monoprice HOSS cable in 30 feet length based on recommendations in this thread for the 50 foot version. I ran the cable for a few days with the Oppo still next to the projector up on the rear shelf, with the HOSS cable coiled up, and it ran fine. I forced the Oppo output to 4K60 4:4:4 12bit on a movie and watched it through with no incidents and watched other random content at normal settings for a day or three, still no issues.

When I ran the cable across the room it also seemed to work initially, but then got squirrelly: I was testing a 3d bluray (settings on auto) and about 3 minutes into it the screen went blank and the projector reported no input. I pulled out and reseated the cable, no change. Tried with and without flexible pigtails, no change. I tried another long cable into HDMI 2 and it still said no input. Tried swapping JVC input setting from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 and back a couple times, no change. Restarted the Oppo, still the same. pulled power on Oppo and projector and restarted, still no input with either cable. Tried my 1080p TiVo straight into projector and it picked that up without issue. I moved the Oppo to another room and hooked it up to a 1080p tv and it started normal. I changed the output to 1080p auto and moved it back to the other room, and it started up okay with the HOSS cable. ran the Tivo through the passthrough input on the Oppo and it played for a few minutes at 1080p60 then blanked out again. Again there was no way to get any input to work so I had to move the Oppo to the other room and reset the output again. I gave up and moved it back to the shelf with the short cable. (and it worked for the hour I had it on)

What I don't understand is why I couldn't get it to reset at all, with power pulled, or changing inputs. It just won't handshake again?

What cable can I rely on in the 20-30 foot range?
I'm not familiar with them but I think an active fiber HDMI cable is the way to go for you. I switched to only a 15' needlessly expensive cable from Best buy. Monoprice is showing up today so I can switch it out and see if it works.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Oh sorry, 2049 is Gorgeous. The yellows and the smog. So well done. It's dark but beautiful. Solo is a heaping pile of crap.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Agreed.
 

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What cable did you switch to? What length were both cables?

I believe I am also having cable issues but am not sure if something else is going on because it is so hard to get the thing going again after an incident. Not sure if I should be asking here, or in the Oppo thread, or the HDMI cable thread...

I have been running my projector with the OPPO 203 connected directly using the 6 foot premium cable that came with it. I ultimately want the oppo further away, so I bought the Monoprice HOSS cable in 30 feet length based on recommendations in this thread for the 50 foot version. I ran the cable for a few days with the Oppo still next to the projector up on the rear shelf, with the HOSS cable coiled up, and it ran fine. I forced the Oppo output to 4K60 4:4:4 12bit on a movie and watched it through with no incidents and watched other random content at normal settings for a day or three, still no issues.

When I ran the cable across the room it also seemed to work initially, but then got squirrelly: I was testing a 3d bluray (settings on auto) and about 3 minutes into it the screen went blank and the projector reported no input. I pulled out and reseated the cable, no change. Tried with and without flexible pigtails, no change. I tried another long cable into HDMI 2 and it still said no input. Tried swapping JVC input setting from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 and back a couple times, no change. Restarted the Oppo, still the same. pulled power on Oppo and projector and restarted, still no input with either cable. Tried my 1080p TiVo straight into projector and it picked that up without issue. I moved the Oppo to another room and hooked it up to a 1080p tv and it started normal. I changed the output to 1080p auto and moved it back to the other room, and it started up okay with the HOSS cable. ran the Tivo through the passthrough input on the Oppo and it played for a few minutes at 1080p60 then blanked out again. Again there was no way to get any input to work so I had to move the Oppo to the other room and reset the output again. I gave up and moved it back to the shelf with the short cable. (and it worked for the hour I had it on)

What I don't understand is why I couldn't get it to reset at all, with power pulled, or changing inputs. It just won't handshake again?

What cable can I rely on in the 20-30 foot range?
I've been using 30ft Monoprice Slimrun AV HDR cable from my AVR to 640U and have absolutely no problems. A short Amazon basics cable between Shield TV and my AVR had problems with occasional stuttering and I switched that with Fusion 4K cable and no problems from then on. I highly recommend Monoprice Slimrun for longer runs since its an active fiber cable and moreover it worked for me with out any issues(especially for 4k HDR).
 

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I've been using 30ft Monoprice Slimrun AV HDR cable from my AVR to 640U and have absolutely no problems. A short Amazon basics cable between Shield TV and my AVR had problems with occasional stuttering and I switched that with Fusion 4K cable and no problems from then on. I highly recommend Monoprice Slimrun for longer runs since its an active fiber cable and moreover it worked for me with out any issues(especially for 4k HDR).
Do I really have to pay a 600% premium and get a fiber optic cable at 20-30 feet?

Anyone able to explain why I could not resynch even with another cable? Is it a projector issue or player issue?
 

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