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When I run the calibration for gamma (to calibrate the color, I will use Calman and my old meter), I know it calibrates for 2.2. It is my understanding that then all the other gamma presets (2.4, B, etc...) will therefore be calibrated, am I right? If I see that my preset gamma 2.4 is not yet fully calibrated, do I then use Gamma Adjust (for 2.4) in the Autocal to refine it?
Autocal always uses gamma 2.2 for its patterns during calibration, as that corresponds to a straight line.

Also, before running the calibration, do I reset all the gains, offsets, Picture Tone, Dark Level, Bright Level back to zero or it does not matter?
Those settings affect the Before and After validation runs, but not the actual calibration.

EDIT: I assumed “Autocal” meant JVC Autocal; if you’re using 3DLUT, ignore the reply.
 

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My comment still applies. Whether you use JVC 12-pt or 3dlut, the RGB Gains should be adjusted for 100%, not 80%.


Does it hurt the process that I adjusted at 100, 80 and 20? The auto CAL is running now for 4913 points it it is going to take a while. But if I should stop at and adjust only at 100 so be it.

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Does it hurt the process that I adjusted at 100, 80 and 20? The auto CAL is running now for 4913 points it it is going to take a while. But if I should stop at and adjust only at 100 so be it.
How did you even adjust both 100 and 80 with the same set of controls (RGB Gains)?
You definitely should not use the 12-pt controls if you’re using 3DLUT.
 

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How did you even adjust both 100 and 80 with the same set of controls (RGB Gains)?

You definitely should not use the 12-pt controls if you’re using 3DLUT.


I used the gamma adjustment controls as follows: Picture Tone worked for 100%, Dark Level worked for 20%, and Bright Level worked for 80%, as I recall that is what happened.

From the manual it seem like those controls were for a better “fine“ control and they definitely worked better than just the gain and offset controls when I first tried this last night.

I’m guessing that was the wrong way to adjust it?


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I used the gamma adjustment controls as follows: Picture Tone worked for 100%, Dark Level worked for 20%, and Bright Level worked for 80%, as I recall that is what happened.

From the manual it seem like those controls were for a better “fine“ control and they definitely worked better than just the gain and offset controls when I first tried this last night.
Unless chromapure specifically recommends it, I wouldn’t touch those controls when using 3DLUT. Just use RGB Gains to adjust for D65 at 100%.
 

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I am a relatively new 2nd owner of an X990. I have been having some issues of late that looked like an HDMI handshake issue. The colors on the screen would shift briefly. It hadn't been happening much or for very long.

Last night was a different story. I was watching Apollo 11 with a guest and by the end of the movie, it had failed almost hard. Here is a screenshot:



2 minutes before the movie ended, it corrected itself and the credit were perfect. I did not get much time to troubleshoot, but even removing the HDMI cable, the projector behaved the same way with the blank screen being red instead of black.

Anyone seen that before? If I have the problem again tonight, I will post some troubleshooting actions.

Thanks,
Doug
 

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I am a relatively new 2nd owner of an X990. I have been having some issues of late that looked like an HDMI handshake issue. The colors on the screen would shift briefly. It hadn't been happening much or for very long.

Last night was a different story. I was watching Apollo 11 with a guest and by the end of the movie, it had failed almost hard. Here is a screenshot:



2 minutes before the movie ended, it corrected itself and the credit were perfect. I did not get much time to troubleshoot, but even removing the HDMI cable, the projector behaved the same way with the blank screen being red instead of black.

Anyone seen that before? If I have the problem again tonight, I will post some troubleshooting actions.

Thanks,
Doug
I would suspect the HDMI cables first. There's a very recent post about resolving handshake issues in this thread.
 

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2 minutes before the movie ended, it corrected itself and the credit were perfect. I did not get much time to troubleshoot, but even removing the HDMI cable, the projector behaved the same way with the blank screen being red instead of black.
Never seen that before, maybe it just glitched out for a few minutes....... So the screen that should have been black, was that on a dead input/input with no signal or that same movie? Try a dead input next time, that will tell you if its the feed or the projector.
 

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I have an RS540 in a bat cave with a 110" Stewart StudioTek 130 screen. I am using two separate user profiles; one for SDR and one for HDR. For the SDR user mode, I am using Profile Off, High Bright Color Temperature (the only option), and the lamp is on Low. With the Iris set to manual (-8), I am getting 14.524 fL / 49 Nits as measured with 100% white using ChromaPure v3.

For the HDR user mode, I am using Profile Off, High Bright Color Temperature (the only option), and the lamp is on High. With the Iris set to manual and wide open, am getting 29.627 fL / 101 Nits as measured with 100% white using ChromaPure v3.

I just wanted to make sure that obtaining the maximum light output possible for HDR is correct.

Thanks.

Mark
 

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PSA - 790 Discontinued

I am currently awaiting the arrival of my 790 I ordered here in Canada a month ago. Today, inquiring as to its ETA, I was told that it has been discontinued. All placed orders would be still be shipped (mid to late June) but no further orders were being taken.

FYI.
 

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Does anyone know what the difference (if any) there is between a JVC RS540U and RS540K?
I received my projector in March 2019, (built in Feb. 2019) and tag on back of PJ says RS540K.
 

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I would suspect the HDMI cables first. There's a very recent post about resolving handshake issues in this thread.
Never seen that before, maybe it just glitched out for a few minutes....... So the screen that should have been black, was that on a dead input/input with no signal or that same movie? Try a dead input next time, that will tell you if its the feed or the projector.
Thanks guys for the responses.

When the problem 1st started happening intermittently (almost too quick to see), I replaced the HDMI cable with a shorter one.

Today it powered and the issue appeared right away. (yay!)

With no input, I see this:



Note that the red is OUTSIDE of the blue no input boundary. (An overscan?) It is like the color management is screwed up. Like something is corrupted.

I went into the service menu and did a factory reset. It did not seem to fix it right away, but by the time I corrected the orientation to be ceiling hung, the picture had fixed itself. Not sure for how long. I let is cook for 10 minutes or so and I did not see any issues. I will attempt to watch some tonight to see how it behaves. If I read correctly, a factory reset does not touch color management.

Based on what I read in this thread it looks like 12.1 is the latest firmware. Not sure it is worth trying to figure out how to reflash it.
 

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Thanks guys for the responses.

When the problem 1st started happening intermittently (almost too quick to see), I replaced the HDMI cable with a shorter one.

Today it powered and the issue appeared right away. (yay!)

With no input, I see this:



Note that the red is OUTSIDE of the blue no input boundary. (An overscan?) It is like the color management is screwed up. Like something is corrupted.

I went into the service menu and did a factory reset. It did not seem to fix it right away, but by the time I corrected the orientation to be ceiling hung, the picture had fixed itself. Not sure for how long. I let is cook for 10 minutes or so and I did not see any issues. I will attempt to watch some tonight to see how it behaves. If I read correctly, a factory reset does not touch color management.

Based on what I read in this thread it looks like 12.1 is the latest firmware. Not sure it is worth trying to figure out how to reflash it.
While it's true that shorter cables are better, if the cables are NOT certified for 4K distribution, that won't resolve the issue. I've had good results using https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15430. If you need longer lengths, I recommend fiber optic cables https://www.monoprice.com/search/index?keyword=fiber+optic+4k.
 

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Autocal always uses gamma 2.2 for its patterns during calibration, as that corresponds to a straight line.


Those settings affect the Before and After validation runs, but not the actual calibration.

EDIT: I assumed “Autocal” meant JVC Autocal; if you’re using 3DLUT, ignore the reply.
I did perform the gamma calibration (for SDR) only with the JVC Autocal yesterday, and I got weird results. I positioned the Spyder 5 as required, ran the automatic calibration and ended up with a magenta tinted image (see picture below). I used the Normal setting for gamma, Reference as color space, CMD off, manual iris -5. I tried again and again, repositioning the meter, changing from Reference to Standard, but to no avail. Only one time (I believe this time I set the meter outside the box to the right), I got a calibration curve just bulging a little bit from the straight line, the image was not as magenta-looking, but still not satisfactory. I rarely have a valid measurement for the White (100%), usually it says "error". The Spyder software was not running, so it can't be this problem. What am I doing wrong?
 

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I did perform the gamma calibration (for SDR) only with the JVC Autocal yesterday, and I got weird results. I positioned the Spyder 5 as required, ran the automatic calibration and ended up with a magenta tinted image (see picture below). I used the Normal setting for gamma, Reference as color space, CMD off, manual iris -5. I tried again and again, repositioning the meter, changing from Reference to Standard, but to no avail. Only one time (I believe this time I set the meter outside the box to the right), I got a calibration curve just bulging a little bit from the straight line, the image was not as magenta-looking, but still not satisfactory. I rarely have a valid measurement for the White (100%), usually it says "error". The Spyder software was not running, so it can't be this problem. What am I doing wrong?
How far is the Spyder from the projector? The RGB readings should all be less than 1.0 (but add up to 1); your individual readings are over 1 which should never happen.
 

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How far is the Spyder from the projector? The RGB readings should all be less than 1.0 (but add up to 1); your individual readings are over 1 which should never happen.
The meter is about 1 to 1.5 foot away from the projector's lens. First, I set it up so that the reflection was below the lens, then I set it up so that it was aimed above the lens (but no difference in the weird results).
 

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The meter is about 1 to 1.5 foot away from the projector's lens. First, I set it up so that the reflection was below the lens, then I set it up so that it was aimed above the lens (but no difference in the weird results).
Have you tried placing it farther away, at 3 or 4 feet?
 

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I’m curious if there is a 10 point white balance option somewhere. I have it set pretty close with the gain and offset but have a few points such as 60% that I would like to touch up but using gain or offset hurts more points than they help. I see no where in the menu to have more fine tuning adjustments for this. The Samsung tv I helped my parents calibrate worked so nice with both 2 point and 10 point white balance control. Btw it’s a JVC x790r. Maybe it’s a hidden menu option?
 
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