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It's in the OP, though this question keeps coming up so often I'm thinking we should just bold the text right at the top of the OP...where it'd still probably be ignored :)

Eshift 5. Reports so far indicate it's a minor, if not tiny, improvement over Eshift4
Working DI out of the box with HDR
Two new OOTB HDR settings
3 year drop-ship/replacement warrenty
There are many links and videos in the OP, but I don't seen any concise answer to what's new. I read about eshift4 vs. 5 and I don't see any claims that it's a big leap. So DI = dynamic iris, I believe. What does it means for DI to work w/HDR in the x40 models vs.the x20 ones? And the warranty got better? Is three years actually more, or is it just the drop-ship aspect.

Thanks...
 

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I'm using the official Kodi Krypton from Google store and it does showed all the info but grey out the color deep, see the example screen shoot that I found from a member here.


Just realized something that may help you too. I enabled the setting allow hardware acceleration - Mediacodec (Surface) under player settings and now I get HDR info in the JVC info menu. Turn it off and it’s gone.

Side note, does anyone know the best projector to choose in the harmony software for the RS540? I didn’t see the RS520 which I assume is the same. I think it was the x9000 or something that worked but there are some problems with it.
 

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Just realized something that may help you too. I enabled the setting allow hardware acceleration - Mediacodec (Surface) under player settings and now I get HDR info in the JVC info menu. Turn it off and it’s gone.

Side note, does anyone know the best projector to choose in the harmony software for the RS540? I didn’t see the RS520 which I assume is the same. I think it was the x9000 or something that worked but there are some problems with it.


I just set mine up a few minutes ago. DLA-RS500 worked just fine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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There are many links and videos in the OP, but I don't seen any concise answer to what's new. I read about eshift4 vs. 5 and I don't see any claims that it's a big leap. So DI = dynamic iris, I believe. What does it means for DI to work w/HDR in the x40 models vs.the x20 ones? And the warranty got better? Is three years actually more, or is it just the drop-ship aspect.

Thanks...
Eshift 5 is a small tweak at best. It's not nothing, but it's not a deal breaker either.

DI is Dynamic Iris yes. Prior models you would have to trick the PJ using a device like the HDFury Linker to get DI working with HDR. The new model you do not.

Warranty improvement is drop ship. In exchange for giving them a CC number JVC will now ship a replacement PJ without waiting to receive the "old" PJ - you get 30 days to ship the old one back now.

There are a few other minor things but the basic takeaway is: If you can get a screaming deal on a previous generation RS520/7700, price-wise, the differences between those and the new models are fairly minor unless you seriously care about working DI for HDR sources out of the box. All else (price) being equal there's no reason not to just order the new model.

It is not a major leap forward, it's incremental, much like the *20 series earlier this year was over the *00.
 

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I think the bright corners issue fades with time (not just lamp time either).
I put a brand new lamp in my JVC, and I can barely see the bright corners anymore (pretty much invisible).
The lamp is as bright as DAY # 1, but the bright corners aren't really there anymore.

Also, I am using a 4-year old JVC with over 4000 hours on it
If that's true, it must take more hours than I've ever owned any of these projectors. I don't even have 4000 hours on any of my TVs. :) Under 1000 hours, I saw zero improvement on an RS40. Can't speak to the newer models because I never kept them for more than a few hours.

I didn't get a chance to measure contrast today. I hope to get to it one of these evenings in the next few days.
You should be able to get some measures even for the iris-closed settings with the i1d3 if you close the diffuser and point it towards the lens. To get maximum contrast, zoom the image to the smallest possible size and use high lamp mode (this will max out brightness to make it easier for the i3D3 to get accurate readings) then position the meter at a distance from the projector that just keeps white from going over the meters maximum range. You should still be able to pickup a stable reading for black. You might need to experiment with different distances to keep the readings stable and within the meters most accurate range (away from either min or max range of the meter). If you're really curious about min/max contrast you would have to take a look at the shadow of the meter on your screen and move the meter to measure different parts of your screen - center will usually have the best contrast. Use manual iris settings only. The i1d3 doesn't have the dynamic range to measure dynamic iris contrast. To do this properly with most accuracy, most of us use light meters like the Minolta T10A.

Obviously when doing this you need to keep the room absolutely dark as any light contamination at all will throw off the readings. It's tricky if you need to keep a laptop screen open to see the readings. Maybe use a black wallpaper and cover up most of the screen except the area with the numbers. Or press the button to take a reading after you turn off the screen. That's why light meters with a "hold" function are better suited for this.
 

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Which device for 4k upscaling?

Hi all,

First of sorry if this question has been discussed somewhere else already.

I am wondering if someone has experience which device does the best upscaling to 4k. Since I have multiple in the chain which would be capable to I am struggling to decide which one would be best.

In my case following devices (European versions) would be able to do the upscaling:
Projector: Epson9300w atm but soon JVCx7900
AVR: Marantz SR7011
Player: Nvidia Shield
TV: VU+ Solo 4k
Windows 10 PC (NUC)
XBox One S

Any advice which device is doing the best job in 4k upscaling? I am mostly interested in TV and 1080p movie upscaling to avoid the format change which would cause annoying HDMI sync times on the JVC. Easiest would be the Marantz but I am unsure if it does a good job.

NoTechi
 

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Just realized something that may help you too. I enabled the setting allow hardware acceleration - Mediacodec (Surface) under player settings and now I get HDR info in the JVC info menu. Turn it off and it’s gone.

Side note, does anyone know the best projector to choose in the harmony software for the RS540? I didn’t see the RS520 which I assume is the same. I think it was the x9000 or something that worked but there are some problems with it.
Thank you for the tips, will try that tonight.
BT
 

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Are these new two HDR settings necessary to use if using custom gamma curves?
One HDR setting is with DCI P3 filter and the other setting is without DCI P3 filter. Without filter, you get native color space of the projector, which is slightly wider than Rec709.
 

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Can you configure the trigger to trigger in and not out? Would like receiver to trigger power on/off to projector.
 

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I think the bright corners issue fades with time (not just lamp time either).
I put a brand new lamp in my JVC, and I can barely see the bright corners anymore (pretty much invisible).
The lamp is as bright as DAY # 1, but the bright corners aren't really there anymore.

Also, I am using a 4-year old JVC with over 4000 hours on it, and no degradation in image quality at all. My contrast measures exactly the same as it did when I first measured it. Gamma drops a bit, but it levels off after a while (no idea if this happens on newer JVC's still)...

Pretty amazing...
My experience w/ bright corners over the past 10 years (starting w/ RS1) is that they don't fade even by 1%, even after thousands of hours. Believe me - I wish they did! However the person I sold my RS1 to (back in 2010) couldn't see them at all in his environment/setup.
 

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According to Ekki, they are caused from the bonding of the 3 color chip. If that is true, it would seem the bonding would have to change or alter over time.
 
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