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Sorry for my ignorance.


For anyone using Ultra HD Blu-Ray on the RS400...


Can you turn off HDR but keep the larger "rec 2020" color space or no?
Yeah, but to properly do it I think you need a player that can do HDR to SDR conversion like the Panasonic or madVR for HTPCs.

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Sorry for my ignorance.


For anyone using Ultra HD Blu-Ray on the RS400...


Can you turn off HDR but keep the larger "rec 2020" color space or no?
Buy the HD Fury Integral and then you can do what you want to do with any 4K UHD BD player.
 

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Another tool you can use is the screen calculator at projectorcentral.com You can mess with different throw distances and screen sizes, and it will give you an estimate of the brightness in foot-lamberts (fl). Most people say you should shoot for around 18-20 fl.
18-20? That seems way too high based on my setup I've been using the past 6 years. No where near that bright, and I think it's borderline too bright. I guess I don't know what I'm talking about, or some people just like really, really bright screens.
 

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18-20? That seems way too high based on my setup I've been using the past 6 years. No where near that bright, and I think it's borderline too bright. I guess I don't know what I'm talking about, or some people just like really, really bright screens.
You want a system that can go that bright or brighter. Then you use the manual iris to reduce light output, down to where you want. That way you get increased contrast and longer lamp life. For myself, I am even more conservative. I want to be able to light up my screen in low lamp with iris partially closed. That way fan noise is low, contrast very good and long lamp life. If you want to go with a large low gain screen, then it limits you on size.
 

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I see Mike has PM'd you...I strongly suggest following his advice. But if I were you, what I'd do is install the projector first, and just put up a bedsheet or a big piece of white posterboard on the wall, or just white primer. SEE what the image looks like at the different lamp settings and screen sizes. I have seen posts from people who say, "wow, this thing is too bright!" and others that say, "it looks dim." Your room and your own perceptions will be different from anyone else's.

Once you see what the image looks like on plain white, you can decide whether you need to take steps to darken the room further or move the projector, and you'll have a much better idea of what sort of a screen you need.

Another tool you can use is the screen calculator at projectorcentral.com You can mess with different throw distances and screen sizes, and it will give you an estimate of the brightness in foot-lamberts (fl). Most people say you should shoot for around 18-20 fl.
Yes I and Mike exchanged a few PM's. Thanks to you as well for the great advice. Based on the advice I have received so far, for my setup of about 14.5 ft lens throw distance from the screen, which is 120" diagonal in cinema scope format, I will need a 1.1 gain screen to reach the coveted 18ftL for 1080p 2D viewing.

The JVC RS400 (X550RB, I suppose for us Canadians) seems to be the only choice I have left to allow me all that, given my price range. Woohoo!

The world is awash with choices, but when you dig deep there is only one that suits your needs. I said that to myself as I was getting married. Hard to imagine I am saying the same thing about my projector.
 

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Yes I and Mike exchanged a few PM's. Thanks to you as well for the great advice. Based on the advice I have received so far, for my setup of about 14.5 ft lens throw distance from the screen, which is 120" diagonal in cinema scope format, I will need a 1.1 gain screen to reach the coveted 18ftL for 1080p 2D viewing.

The JVC RS400 (X550RB, I suppose for us Canadians) seems to be the only choice I have left to allow me all that, given my price range. Woohoo!

The world is awash with choices, but when you dig deep there is only one that suits your needs. I said that to myself as I was getting married. Hard to imagine I am saying the same thing about my projector.
No you don't. A 1.1 gain, 120" diag. 2.35 screen paired with RS400 would be able to give you a max around 39FL in 2D with new lamp. That is at short end of the throw, iris wide open and high lamp.
 

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No you don't. A 1.1 gain, 120" diag. 2.35 screen paired with RS400 would be able to give you a max around 39FL in 2D with new lamp. That is at short end of the throw, iris wide open and high lamp.
I guess you answered that with your earlier comment mentioned below, plus also given that I would like to watch 3D once in a while now, and perhaps some HDR content down the road in the near future...
You want a system that can go that bright or brighter. Then you use the manual iris to reduce light output, down to where you want. That way you get increased contrast and longer lamp life. For myself, I am even more conservative. I want to be able to light up my screen in low lamp with iris partially closed. That way fan noise is low, contrast very good and long lamp life. If you want to go with a large low gain screen, then it limits you on size.
 

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I guess you answered that with your earlier comment mentioned below, plus also given that I would like to watch 3D once in a while now, and perhaps some HDR content down the road in the near future...
If I recall, earlier we were talking 120" wide or 130" wide, not diagonal. With a 1.1 gain screen and wanting to be able to do some 3D and UHD BD with HDR, then 120" wide would be a good choice to not exceed.
 

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If I recall, earlier we were talking 120" wide or 130" wide, not diagonal. With a 1.1 gain screen and wanting to be able to do some 3D and UHD BD with HDR, then 120" wide would be a good choice to not exceed.
Correct, and based on your suggestion about the limit being 10 ft width, which actually makes it about 130 inches cinema scope diagonal width, I decided to go a one step lower, because, as an engineer, I get uncomfortable at the extreme end of an allowable range. Hence the 120 inch diagonal.

All I have left now is for a longish demo at a local store to see my choice in person before acquiring it.... maybe I will end up with the 130 inch diagonal after all, as I hear size does matter all the time. But although my room is light controlled to a large extent, but not light proof. Can't wait for the demo... :)

Thanks!
 

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You want a system that can go that bright or brighter. Then you use the manual iris to reduce light output, down to where you want. That way you get increased contrast and longer lamp life. For myself, I am even more conservative. I want to be able to light up my screen in low lamp with iris partially closed. That way fan noise is low, contrast very good and long lamp life. If you want to go with a large low gain screen, then it limits you on size.
Clamping down on the iris does not prolong the life of the bulb does it? Is it just a result of running in eco mode?
 

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Got a question about e-shift on the X5000. Does it only apply to 4K content or it also works on 1080p content?

I mostly watch 1080p content and play using an Oppo 103D. Should I get the Oppo to (a) output 1080p and then use e-shift or (b) to upscale to 4K, then use e-shift?

Or lastly, just run it native 1080p and forget about e-shift?
 

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No you don't. A 1.1 gain, 120" diag. 2.35 screen paired with RS400 would be able to give you a max around 39FL in 2D with new lamp. That is at short end of the throw, iris wide open and high lamp.
Mike, wanna ask "short end of the throw" means fully zoomed in or zoomed out?
 

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Mike, wanna ask "short end of the throw" means fully zoomed in or zoomed out?
Short: Zoomed out, image big.
Long: Zoomed in, image small.

That's why sometimes a long distance between the lens and screen is called a 'long throw'.
 

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Got a question about e-shift on the X5000. Does it only apply to 4K content or it also works on 1080p content?
e-shift is always on for 4K sources. You can turn it on or off for 1080p.

I mostly watch 1080p content and play using an Oppo 103D. Should I get the Oppo to (a) output 1080p and then use e-shift or (b) to upscale to 4K, then use e-shift?
You can try it either way, and see which you like best. Either will work, and it shouldn't take long to try.

Or lastly, just run it native 1080p and forget about e-shift?
Some people actually do that, but I believe most prefer to have e-shift on. If you sit far enough away, the distortion from the hard pixel edges with e-shift off can make the image appear a bit sharper.
 

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Clamping down on the iris does not prolong the life of the bulb does it? Is it just a result of running in eco mode?
Not the actual bulb life, no. But when you start off clamped down, that gives you the ability to open the iris gradually as the bulb ages, to compensate as the output drops. So having extra brightness to start with will extend the usable lifespan of the bulb. Potentially by quite a bit.
 
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