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That's not really an issue. It's not as daunting as it sounds on paper-- it's more like sitting in the middle of the theater as opposed to the front row.
Actually

10' from a 12' wide screen
is .83 screen widths viewing distance
and very close to the front row. 62º viewing angle

10' from an 8'-6" wide screen (120" diagonal)
is ~1.2 screen widths viewing distance
is right in the middle (45º viewing angle)



...Keep in mind that's based on a scope image 2.39:1
Full screen 16:9 content would be extremely taxing on your vision

What's the throw distance and what screen material/gain?

I cant imagine where you would have room for a center channel speaker if its not an AT screen.

If using an acoustically transparent screen at that size/distance that may explain it.
The larger you make the image, the larger the pixels get and sitting closer than "normal"
amplifies your ability to see things you would not at a typical viewing distance.
 

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I like it filling my field-of-view; makes for an immersive experience .
Having an image that large and sitting that close will definitely reveal artifacts that most wouldn't even normally notice.

Try keeping e-shift off for non-4K sources. I find it definitely increases the perceived sharpness to keep it off.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
 

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Having an image that large and sitting that close will definitely reveal artifacts that most wouldn't even normally notice.

Try keeping e-shift off for non-4K sources. I find it definitely increases the perceived sharpness to keep it off.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
That's odd (not saying it's not true) that E-Shift "Off" would sharpen 1080 content....
 

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That's odd (not saying it's not true) that E-Shift "Off" would sharpen 1080 content....
Yes it is very counter to what I would have expected when I received my JVC 6 months ago. However I'm not the only who has noticed this.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
 
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Gotcha. And, I'm speaking as a neutral. Both the JVC and the Epson are top of my list for a near future purchase. Users of the Epson talk about how significantly better 1080 Blu-ray is with 4K enhancement. Some of the pro reviews reflect this as well, like projectorreviews.com

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 

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I don't think its even possible to get the focus dialed in with E-Shift engaged,
its partially designed to intentionally blur the lines of the gaps between the pixels to reduce the screen door effect when you are closer to the screen.

It's those "gaps" that can reveal the pixel definition and at a distance "fool" your eyes
into believing they are seeing a sharper image.

That's why a true pro review uses the term "perceived" sharpness.

The JVC/Sony Lcos have an extremely high pixel fill factor compared to LCD panels
So the "gap" between pixels are much smaller and harder to see.



I know it sounds counter-intuitive but when viewed from a distance, a lower fill factor
can be perceived as sharper, when in fact it is not. The higher fill factor will appear more natural and film-like.

I prefer the later,
and its also why I've always liked Plasma over LCD TV's as well.

My 120" screen from 9' away, samsung smartphone camera :eek:

4K


1080 w/E-shift



1080 w/E-shift


If you like the Soap Opera effect, (looks too "digital" to my eyes)
Epson may be a better projector choice.
 

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Does anybody else have issues with the projector throwing error codes and failing to start? I have had this happen twice in about 8 months now. I get a code via the indicator lights that the bulb failed the light. I unplug and replug the projector and that fixes it. Not sure if this is something I should contact JVC over.
 

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If you like the Soap Opera effect, (looks too "digital" to my eyes)
Epson may be a better projector choice.
I don't think that Frame Interpolation and the "Soap Opera Effect" are at play here. That's not what's being discussed with regards to sharpness or "perceived sharper detail or resolution".
 

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To adjust my lens zoom, shift, and focus I turned off E-shift and used the JVC green grid.
Then the only adjustments I made from factory defaults were as per zombie10k's settings, 100% to the letter.
That's how I had set up my JVC as well. Used the Pattern Generator for Lens Shift, Focus, and Zoom.
I'm using a movie to only set Clear Black and Enhance, as they're essentially Darbee-like settings.


Actually

10' from a 12' wide screen
is .83 screen widths viewing distance
and very close to the front row. 62º viewing angle

10' from an 8'-6" wide screen (120" diagonal)
is ~1.2 screen widths viewing distance
is right in the middle (45º viewing angle)

...Keep in mind that's based on a scope image 2.39:1
Full screen 16:9 content would be extremely taxing on your vision

What's the throw distance and what screen material/gain?

I cant imagine where you would have room for a center channel speaker if its not an AT screen.

If using an acoustically transparent screen at that size/distance that may explain it.
The larger you make the image, the larger the pixels get and sitting closer than "normal"
amplifies your ability to see things you would not at a typical viewing distance.
All right, I took some actual measurements today. My screen is 10 ft wide; not 12. And my seat is exactly 13 ft away. The projector is 20 ft away from the screen. Brightness is not at all an issue now, even with Picture Tone at 0 and the lamp on low.

I'm not sure about the screen material but I do know that it's not Acoustically Transparent and the gain is 1.0.

This is a photo I had taken with my old Optoma projector just to give you an idea of what it's like: (and yes, I know that white walls wash out the contrast :) )




Pringles for scale.

Oh, and by the way, another factor to consider is that your player is superior and also comes with 4K upscaling. I'm using a PS3 at the moment and it induces judder at 24 hz. I know it's the PS3 because it's the same case when used with both my TVs. I won't say anything on this until I get my Oppo UDP-203, which will most likely make this a non-issue.


Having an image that large and sitting that close will definitely reveal artifacts that most wouldn't even normally notice.

Try keeping e-shift off for non-4K sources. I find it definitely increases the perceived sharpness to keep it off.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
I watched 13 Hours: The Secret Soldiers of Benghazi today with E-Shift off-- noticeably sharper. Just to test things out, I set Clear Black to high but hadn't noticed any artifacts. Enhance was at 3. I guess it depends on the source as well.

The convergence is slightly off on either side of the image and I'm working on fixing it with Pixel Shift. I'm assuming this contributes to the sharpness as well?

Either way, I'm thoroughly impressed with the JVC's black levels (even with my white walls). The Auto Iris is a godsend and I can't even imagine how I'm going to use HDR without it. I see now why everyone here is using an Integral.
 
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Hoping I can get some help here on this, I've got my rs400 updated, have run the calibration, loaded the bt2020 profile, using Philips uhd players as well as the fury with edid 11 also with firmware updated, playing Lego movie I get a warning saying my display is not compatible with HDR.

Am I doing something wrong here? Or is that warning normal? Not wanting to do HDR, but as like many here, jut utilize the expanded bt2020 color space. Not sure if this warning is normal with that in mind, or if there's some setting I'm still missing.
 

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Hoping I can get some help here on this, I've got my rs400 updated, have run the calibration, loaded the bt2020 profile, using Philips uhd players as well as the fury with edid 11 also with firmware updated, playing Lego movie I get a warning saying my display is not compatible with HDR.

Am I doing something wrong here? Or is that warning normal? Not wanting to do HDR, but as like many here, jut utilize the expanded bt2020 color space. Not sure if this warning is normal with that in mind, or if there's some setting I'm still missing.
I believe that is what you should see, since the fury is sending edid info to the philips that it can't do hdr.
 

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I was trying to apply the sound and vision settings but they make reference to user1 picture mode and I don't have that as an option ? I have the latest firmware installed. Also, does anyone have settings that I can try ? I read 50 pages on this thread and no user settings and after trying out sound and vision I feel like they are entirely too dark. I mean, yes I agree the black levels are great on this unit but why would anyone watch movies that are so dark that I can't even make out certain parts of the movie ? I flipped back and forth between the cinema preset and sound and visions recommended settings and we both prefer the cinema preset by miles.
That said, I wanted to let everyone know that I have tried letting letting my McIntosh mx160 do upcnversion of signals to 4K and the projector image looks way better than if I just let the projector do the upconversion of a non 4K signal. What I'm trying to say is that I feel that this projects does a better job when fed a 4K signal whether it is a native 4K or upconverted 4K.
 

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Resetting

Is there a way to completely reset the JVC X550 to all default settings? I couldn't find anything in the manual

I've messed around with it too much and now it won't even display 4k anymore (I even tried to plug source into projector directly in case it was my receiver stopping it)
 

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This is what the convergence on my JVC looks like out-of-the-box. There's no Pixel Shifting done yet:





I tried using Pixel Shift with Fine Adjustment tonight and this is what I ended up with for the vertical line:




No matter how much I change Red and Blue to get a white line, it still has a green glow around it like a lightsaber. Is this normal? Is there anything I can do?
 

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This is what the convergence on my JVC looks like out-of-the-box. There's no Pixel Shifting done yet:





I tried using Pixel Shift with Fine Adjustment tonight and this is what I ended up with for the vertical line:




No matter how much I change Red and Blue to get a white line, it still has a green glow around it like a lightsaber. Is this normal? Is there anything I can do?
I think I have seen you post in the RS500 thread, you may get a quicker answer there as most of the pro calibrators and expert video tweakers are regulars there.
 

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Does anybody else have issues with the projector throwing error codes and failing to start? I have had this happen twice in about 8 months now. I get a code via the indicator lights that the bulb failed the light. I unplug and replug the projector and that fixes it. Not sure if this is something I should contact JVC over.
Same thing again. Warning is for abnormal circuitry. This isn't exactly filling me with hope for the future of my projector.
 

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Same thing again. Warning is for abnormal circuitry. This isn't exactly filling me with hope for the future of my projector.
I haven't seen any reports of this issue. It is probably time to discuss with dealer or jvc.
 

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Same thing again. Warning is for abnormal circuitry. This isn't exactly filling me with hope for the future of my projector.
Looks like the problem the RS4o and RS45s had back in the day. Problem was eventually defined as a bad motherboard or bad ballast board(or whatever it's called). Read those owners threads if you want more detail. I had the problem and sent the proj back to JVC service where a new MB solved the problem. Hasn't done it since. I would call JVC and get it fixed under warranty.
 
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Well I must say that I'm very happy with my RS-400 even without it being calibrated. Excellent picture (low lamp mode) on my inexpensive 92" screen and No ghosting, which may be a first for LCD, and the pop out on Avatar is amazing. Much better than on my Epson DLP 3D projector or anywhere for that matter.

I tried the HDR Gamma D setting which appears on their website and at first it was a problem because I was using a a/v splitter that was not 2.0/2.2 capable (too dark). None of my audio equipment has the required HDMI pass thru so that will force me to buy a "receiver" which can accommodate this. I thought that I read somewhere on this forum that only ONKYO receivers have this feature and they do.

I can't find a splitter that does 2.0/2.2 and RCA output female plugs on the same splitter

I tested HDR without going thru the splitter (direct hook up from my xboxone S and it seemed fine). I was also told to use the "animation" choice in the picture mode setting along with high lamp mode for a brighter image.

New dilemma: I like 3D and HDR so I will have to buy both of them which will get me close to $60.00 per movie. An exception that I found was that both Angry Birds and Ghostbusters had both 3D and HDR in the same package. Both for under $30.00
 
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