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Have you used these settings from JVC?
No. i'm actually a bit confused by the whole BT2020 vs HDR. I was under the (probably the mistaken impression) that BT2020 encompassed HDR. So I need to set both then by the looks of it. once I've set BT202) and the gamma settings, can i save all of it one user setting?

TIA

Mark
 

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No. i'm actually a bit confused by the whole BT2020 vs HDR. I was under the (probably the mistaken impression) that BT2020 encompassed HDR. So I need to set both then by the looks of it. once I've set BT202) and the gamma settings, can i save all of it one user setting?

TIA

Mark
BT2020 and Rec709 are Color Profiles, with corresponding color spaces: that is, the spectrum of available colors that can be displayed. Rec709 is the 'normal' one; BT2020 is the larger, or wider color space; hence the acronym WCG, for Wide Color Gamut. BT2020 provides access to a wider 'spectrum' of colors, and that is why it can potentially produce a more pleasing image.

HDR refers to High Dynamic Range, vs SDR, or Standard Dynamic Range. This is the range from the blackest blacks, to the whitest whites. As with the color space, having the wider range can produce a better picture. This is reasonably straightforward to implement on a TV, as it can be build specifically to accommodate this wider range. With Projectors, it is less straightforward, as the brightest brights are significantly more limited by the physical nature of the system than they are in a well-designed TV. So it is harder to 'squeeze' this broader range to what is available in a projector.

Further, with a Projector, you have a wide variety of different models, manufacturers, total brightness, contrast range it can produce (again, in a spectrum of black to white), screen sizes, screen reflectivity, distance from the projector to the screen, etc. This is a big part of why there are so many problems and posts dealing with getting a satisfactory HDR image on various projectors.

This is also the reason that many have decided that the resulting picture available with HDR in their projector is just not satisfactory. They they add the HDFury Integral (or have this capability built-in, as it is hoped will be finally implemented with the Oppo 203) to the chain. This provides the WCG of UHD Blu-rays, while removing the HDR component.

You can set up a User Profile for whatever combination of settings you want. For example, many of us have a 'regular' Blu-ray setting for watching conventional Blu-rays. This would use the Rec709 Color Profile, Low Lamp, Aperture setting of one's choice, Dynamic Iris setting of your choice, Gamma of choice (typically around 2.3 or 2.4, with Dark Level bumped up 2 or 3 notches), and whatever Brightness/Contrast/Color settings indicated through use of a calibration disc such as the Disney WOW.

Another User Slot can be configured for HDR: BT2020 Color Profile, High Lamp (although some choose Low Lamp), Gamma D (with sub-settings as recommended by JVC, starting points being Picture Tone +12, Dark Level +5, Bright Level +4), Aperture is by default wide open, with no Dynamic Iris available (a JVC restriction), and Brightness/Contrast/Color as needed. The Disney WOW disc isn't designed for HDR, and many are using patterns produced by Ray Masciola (I'm not familiar with exactly how these would be used) to make these adjustments.

Hopefully this will give you the broader context going in with this stuff. It can be confusing!!

And if I've mis-spoken on any issues, hopefully some more experienced posters will correct me (I'm still very much a newb here, with less than 1 year's experience).
 

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Yes, their verbiage is rather confusing. Perhaps give a shout out in the Phillips BD player thread as maybe someone has been able to verify what it's doing. I 'want' to say it just means the HDR is off and the player would be sending whatever the player resolution is set at - however, their wording is odd. With the Oppo, I just set HDR to Off and let it send 3840×2160.

Does the player have the HDR to SDR conversion slider/setting like the Panasonic? If so, it's possible this might need to be adjusted for more or less luminance depending on your set-up. So, if at default, the image seems a little dark this could be tweaked or dialed in better - there also might be a test pattern out there for this, but not sure.
Thanks for the reply, David.

I'll just give it a try in the next day or two, and determine for myself what's going on. The Marantz is good at telling me what signal is coming in, so I should be able to identify what the Philips is outputting there, and the JVC should also confirm this. I'm hoping it is actually 4k resolution, but SDR vs HDR. I guess I'll find out!

No slider that I've seen as I've played with the player itself, haven't seen any mention in the Manual. So I guess it's not really just a cheap Panny!

I'll post back once I'm able to test this out. Thanks again for an interesting suggestion!

Don
OK, took some time to play around with this:

If you go into the main Settings, HDMI, for the Philips BDP7501 player, there is an option there to turn off HDR. When this is done, the 4k Resolution is maintained (60p or 24p), and it drops down to SDR/Rec709. So this works as one would want.

The impact of this is two-fold: the black crush is definitely improved. I used some of the early dark scenes in Jason Bourne, and went back and forth a couple of times (didn't try to take any photos - too lazy!;)), but this was reasonably apparent. So this is good. The negative is that the brighter scenes and colors were definitely more subdued. No big surprise there.

So with things set up this way, I get the benefit of: 4k Resolution, and the superior Audio track which is often present only on the UHD-BD. I get better shadow detail on the dark side, but lose some of the colors and visual impact on the bright side.

Clearly, this is why many opt for the HDFury, to give them both the 4k and WCG, while maintaining the better Audio track when present. How much better this is vs conventional Blu-ray is obviously a subjective call. I haven't yet decided whether it would be worth another $250 to find out.
 

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BT2020 and Rec709 are Color Profiles, with corresponding color spaces: that is, the spectrum of available colors that can be displayed. Rec709 is the 'normal' one; BT2020 is the larger, or wider color space; hence the acronym WCG, for Wide Color Gamut. BT2020 provides access to a wider 'spectrum' of colors, and that is why it can potentially produce a more pleasing image.

HDR refers to High Dynamic Range, vs SDR, or Standard Dynamic Range. This is the range from the blackest blacks, to the whitest whites. As with the color space, having the wider range can produce a better picture. This is reasonably straightforward to implement on a TV, as it can be build specifically to accommodate this wider range. With Projectors, it is less straightforward, as the brightest brights are significantly more limited by the physical nature of the system than they are in a well-designed TV. So it is harder to 'squeeze' this broader range to what is available in a projector.

Further, with a Projector, you have a wide variety of different models, manufacturers, total brightness, contrast range it can produce (again, in a spectrum of black to white), screen sizes, screen reflectivity, distance from the projector to the screen, etc. This is a big part of why there are so many problems and posts dealing with getting a satisfactory HDR image on various projectors.

This is also the reason that many have decided that the resulting picture available with HDR in their projector is just not satisfactory. They they add the HDFury Integral (or have this capability built-in, as it is hoped will be finally implemented with the Oppo 203) to the chain. This provides the WCG of UHD Blu-rays, while removing the HDR component.



You can set up a User Profile for whatever combination of settings you want. For example, many of us have a 'regular' Blu-ray setting for watching conventional Blu-rays. This would use the Rec709 Color Profile, Low Lamp, Aperture setting of one's choice, Dynamic Iris setting of your choice, Gamma of choice (typically around 2.3 or 2.4, with Dark Level bumped up 2 or 3 notches), and whatever Brightness/Contrast/Color settings indicated through use of a calibration disc such as the Disney WOW.

Another User Slot can be configured for HDR: BT2020 Color Profile, High Lamp (although some choose Low Lamp), Gamma D (with sub-settings as recommended by JVC, starting points being Picture Tone +12, Dark Level +5, Bright Level +4), Aperture is by default wide open, with no Dynamic Iris available (a JVC restriction), and Brightness/Contrast/Color as needed. The Disney WOW disc isn't designed for HDR, and many are using patterns produced by Ray Masciola (I'm not familiar with exactly how these would be used) to make these adjustments.

Hopefully this will give you the broader context going in with this stuff. It can be confusing!!

And if I've mis-spoken on any issues, hopefully some more experienced posters will correct me (I'm still very much a newb here, with less than 1 year's experience).
As someone getting ready to pull the trigger on the RS400 or maybe the RS500, thank you for the good summary of terms used throughout this thread.
 

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35 ft HDMI Combo HDMI cables that work 4k/60p

For people out there that need a long run HDMI 4k/60p connection from their Samsung 4k player to their JVC RS400/500/600 projectors here is alternative. I have tried numerous HDMI cables to pass a 4k/60p signal from my Samsung 4k UHD player to my RS400 projector which is a 35 ft run - I needed a cable that would pass a 4k/60p signal so the Menu would come up when I started my Samsung player. I tried the Monoprice Cabernet and I just tried the Monoprice LUXE and it will pass a 4k/24p signal but not a 4k/60p - I guess the Samsung player is just not sending out a strong enough HDMI signal for those cables to work. So before I spent $300+ for a 35 ft Fiber optic HDMI cable I thought I would try a 35 ft COMBO version from Monoprice since I already had a credit for the returns. So I tried the 20 ft and 15 ft Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI cable - part # 15431 & 15430 and the new Monoprice Blackbird 4k Pro Repeater Extender # 15650 (no power needed) and it worked. For the 1st time when I started up the Samsung 4k player the Menu came up at 4k/60p . So I know this is not the best alternative but for now this will work until they improve their long run cables .
 

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RS-232C null-modem (cross) cable and USB-to-RS232C adapter

Can anyone let me know which specific cables they used, where they purchased them and how much they cost for the two cables above that are needed to update the firmware? I know the documentation specifies that they tested with Tripp Lite Keyspan (model#: USA-19HS) & Staples USB-Serial Adapter (Item: 837560)

Thanks.
 

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For people out there that need a long run HDMI 4k/60p connection from their Samsung 4k player to their JVC RS400/500/600 projectors here is alternative. I have tried numerous HDMI cables to pass a 4k/60p signal from my Samsung 4k UHD player to my RS400 projector which is a 35 ft run - I needed a cable that would pass a 4k/60p signal so the Menu would come up when I started my Samsung player. I tried the Monoprice Cabernet and I just tried the Monoprice LUXE and it will pass a 4k/24p signal but not a 4k/60p - I guess the Samsung player is just not sending out a strong enough HDMI signal for those cables to work. So before I spent $300+ for a 35 ft Fiber optic HDMI cable I thought I would try a 35 ft COMBO version from Monoprice since I already had a credit for the returns. So I tried the 20 ft and 15 ft Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI cable - part # 15431 & 15430 and the new Monoprice Blackbird 4k Pro Repeater Extender # 15650 (no power needed) and it worked. For the 1st time when I started up the Samsung 4k player the Menu came up at 4k/60p . So I know this is not the best alternative but for now this will work until they improve their long run cables .


I had a 25' run for my Pre-Pro to my projector,I used Farstrider Highspeed Cable,works great,Amazon has them not that experience. It's been in service since I got it in September with zero issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I am about to buy a RS400 and it will be my first projector. I have a question about the slow sync/switching speed on this unit.

My media is all ripped to a server and I watch it through Kodi. I will almost never switch inputs on the projector. So if I am at the Kodi gui and click to play a movie will it just start or will the projector go into this sync issue each time?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

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I am about to buy a RS400 and it will be my first projector. I have a question about the slow sync/switching speed on this unit.

My media is all ripped to a server and I watch it through Kodi. I will almost never switch inputs on the projector. So if I am at the Kodi gui and click to play a movie will it just start or will the projector go into this sync issue each time?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


I use Kodi through a FireTV Box,hardwired ethernet,and I have no problems at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hey all,
Long time member who has just been enjoying his setup for the last few years.
Well, that's all about to change, as I just purchased a 4K TV, the JVC RS400 and a new Oppo 203 BDP

I've spent the last week reading this entire thread. Man, I forgot how much learning and work goes into this home theater stuff.
Today I fired everything up and already have a bunch of issues & questions for you knowledgeable members.
I'll start with just the basics.
* I had a hard time getting a picture from the Oppo to the RS400 using a Blue Jean 40' cable. I tried a 50' Monoprice Cabernet cable too with no luck. When I hooked either of these up to my DirecTV receiver, picture came right through (and it looked fantastic!) I finally figured out that I had to change the settings in the projector under HDMI2 EDID to "B" and plug into HDMI 2. This was the only way I could get any picture from the Oppo. Is there a reason for this?

* I ordered the new NVidia Shield TV that I want to use for Streaming. Can I pass this through my Oppo and still see 4K HDR content?

* I also ordered the HD Fury Inegral but I'm reading that, with the Oppo 203, I may not need it. Is this correct? Anyone know what settings I need to change in the Oppo to block the HDCP? I downloaded the manual to the HD Fury and it looks pretty complicated. Big learning curve. Hopefully I won't need it.

In the next few days I'm going to update the software and install the BT2020 profile. Anything else I'm missing?

Thank in advance for any suggestions!!!
 

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Congrats on the new gear!

* I had a hard time getting a picture from the Oppo to the RS400 using a Blue Jean 40' cable. I tried a 50' Monoprice Cabernet cable too with no luck. When I hooked either of these up to my DirecTV receiver, picture came right through (and it looked fantastic!) I finally figured out that I had to change the settings in the projector under HDMI2 EDID to "B" and plug into HDMI 2. This was the only way I could get any picture from the Oppo. Is there a reason for this?
Full 4k/HDR requires a cable to transmit at up to 18 Gbps. Achieving this at lengths greater than 20 to 25 feet or so has been a huge challenge, sometimes requiring very expensive fiber-optic cables. You can search for a huge thread discussing this subject. The fact that you have one at 40 feet that works at all is a huge accomplishment.
* I ordered the new NVidia Shield TV that I want to use for Streaming. Can I pass this through my Oppo and still see 4K HDR content?
I don't own the Oppo, but it is my understanding that the HDMI input on it is not HDR-compatible, so this won't work with HDR content.
* I also ordered the HD Fury Integral but I'm reading that, with the Oppo 203, I may not need it. Is this correct? Anyone know what settings I need to change in the Oppo to block the HDCP? I downloaded the manual to the HD Fury and it looks pretty complicated. Big learning curve. Hopefully I won't need it.
One of the appeals of the Oppo is that it would offer the ability to 'strip' HDR, while maintaining WCB/BT2020. This function has seen one firmware improvement that makes it sort of work, from what I've read, but it is still a work in progress. Assuming they get this working fully, then no, you wouldn't need the Integral. And then you can sell it to me for half-price as I might want to try one out!;)

Again, I don't own one, but look for something called HDR Stripping, or something like that, in the menu. And you'll want to get the beta firmware to get the most recent version of this function.

Don
 

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After much deliberation I'm happy to announce that I bought a RS400. It was out of my price range for a while, but Mike and the team at AV Science have "blow out pricing" on the RS400/RS500/RS600. Mike told me they bought the remaining stock JVC had. I'm super excited to set it up, but my theater room is about a month away from being ready. I hope.
 

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After much deliberation I'm happy to announce that I bought a RS400. It was out of my price range for a while, but Mike and the team at AV Science have "blow out pricing" on the RS400/RS500/RS600. Mike told me they bought the remaining stock JVC had. I'm super excited to set it up, but my theater room is about a month away from being ready. I hope.
Be sure to pull out the projector and test it out, when you receive it. Then box it back up, if you do not need it.
 

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After much deliberation I'm happy to announce that I bought a RS400. It was out of my price range for a while, but Mike and the team at AV Science have "blow out pricing" on the RS400/RS500/RS600. Mike told me they bought the remaining stock JVC had. I'm super excited to set it up, but my theater room is about a month away from being ready. I hope.

Mike and that team is top notch.
 

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I have been waiting for a B stock RS400 to become available for 6 months so I called Mike (AV Science) to ask how much it would cost for an A stock now that the RS420 is being released. To cut a long story short, I ordered an A stock on Monday for only $100 more than what I was quoted for the B stock. It was almost worth the wait.

I noticed a few other people had asked about that on this forum so I thought I'd mention it in case yo haven't received responses yet.
 

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I have been waiting for a B stock RS400 to become available for 6 months so I called Mike (AV Science) to ask how much it would cost for an A stock now that the RS420 is being released. To cut a long story short, I ordered an A stock on Monday for only $100 more than what I was quoted for the B stock. It was almost worth the wait.

I noticed a few other people had asked about that on this forum so I thought I'd mention it in case yo haven't received responses yet.
With the new models coming out, there hasn't been a better time to buy an RS400. It's like cars - buying last years model at a good discount !Timing is everything in life. :)
 

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With the new models coming out, there hasn't been a better time to buy an RS400. It's like cars - buying last years model at a good discount !Timing is everything in life. :)
Yep. I'm usually a person who likes to buy the newest but in this case there isn't enough that is different between the 2 for me to pay extra. It might be different if I were a gamer.
 

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Yep. I'm usually a person who likes to buy the newest but in this case there isn't enough that is different between the 2 for me to pay extra. It might be different if I were a gamer.
Yep, if you are not a gamer, it is a no brainer. :)
 
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