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can someone who done the BT20202 file please give me a call 304-421-5777 . A friend and I just done the firmware update. Now I want the BT2020 file. I would like if someone could call us to explain a few things before we screw this thing up. Thanks in advance.
That would be me. lol

I never could get the network connection directly between the laptop and the projector to work.

Is there something you have to do that's not in the PDF to make it connect? I did go by the directions and apparently am missing something. This is a Windows 10 laptop if that makes any difference.
 

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That would be me. lol

I never could get the network connection directly between the laptop and the projector to work.

Is there something you have to do that's not in the PDF to make it connect? I did go by the directions and apparently am missing something. This is a Windows 10 laptop if that makes any difference.
Did you enable DHCP on the projector?
 

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That would be me. lol

I never could get the network connection directly between the laptop and the projector to work.

Is there something you have to do that's not in the PDF to make it connect? I did go by the directions and apparently am missing something. This is a Windows 10 laptop if that makes any difference.
Did you enable DHCP on the projector?
Also make sure you turn of WiFi on your laptop. That's not mentioned in the instructions, and caused me some grief until I figured out that it needed to be off.
 

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Are you connecting directly with CAT5 Lan cable or connecting through your home network?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Direct connect with ethernet cable going between projector and laptop.

Did you enable DHCP on the projector?
For direct connect, don't the instructions say to leave it off?

Also make sure you turn of WiFi on your laptop. That's not mentioned in the instructions, and caused me some grief until I figured out that it needed to be off.
Definitely didn't know to turn it off. It was on the whole time. :eeksurprise:
 

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So the only sure way for most of us is to get a professional calibration?
Pretty much, yes. You want a meter to be profiled off a good spectro (e.g. Jeti 1211, etc.) and these meters like projectors/displays will drift over time and need to be re-profiled. Think of it like a re-calibration. The Spyders while part of the autocal process vary a lot in term of accuracy. They are low end meters. Typically, a calibrator will use one for the auto cal then creating a profile to manually adjust with a better meter profiled to the spectro (like a Klein K10 to the Jeti). This is for the best result.
 

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Only problem is, you need a fairly accurate Spyder 5 meter and you have no way of knowing that, unless you get the meter profiled by someone that has a good meter.
Do the Spyder 5s have an internal memory to save a profile made off of a spectrometer or does the profile reside within the software such as Calman, etc.

Reason being is I thought I read that the Spyder 5 and 4 weren't particularly accurate and without having some way of profiling where the correction file goes into the Spyders, then you're likely to have gone through this exercise (and expense) and wind up with an inaccurate picture.

Too bad the software doesn't include an option for other colorimeters.
 

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For you all having trouble importing the JVC 2020 profile...you can also just create your own custom profile and use the settings provided on JVCs page (http://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-x950r_x750r_x550r_x9000_x7000_x5000_xc7890r_xc6890r_xc5890r_rs600_rs500_rs400_uhd.html ), under the "without autocal" section. It's the exact same thing as their profile either way. You should be reading that page anyway because unless you got a recent model with a recent update HDR is going to look like crud on it, out of the box. The settings outlined by JVC correct that.

I still find the 400 to be a little too dark, even in high lamp, for proper HDR on many disks. It could use more lumens. Or you can strip HDR and keep WCG with the Fury, or the new Oppo 203 (when they fix the latter with an update, it's an experimental feature right now and a bit wonky). I have a 122 scope screen so a smaller screen/shorter throw might make a difference too if that is your setup.

The Oppo 203, btw, is my favorite player with this PJ. I tried the Samsung, replaced it with the Phillips, and have now regulated the latter to my 4k TV downstairs. The 203 still has issues even with their recent beta firmware, but it is steadily improving and Oppo has a stellar rep for fine tuning.

I've already noticed some annoyances, like extremely long HDMI syncs, are a lot less annoying with the Oppo. Granted, they are still long - that is a JVC thing - but the Samsung and Philips UHD players seemed to be adding to the problem. The Oppo is quite reliable in this regard. Solid player and looks great too if you care about that kind of thing. HDR stripping still needs work but I believe it will get there soon and when it does this will be the perfect player for PJs like these that can't quite pump out enough light for HDR.
 

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For you all having trouble importing the JVC 2020 profile...you can also just create your own custom profile and use the settings provided on JVCs page (http://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/...0r_xc6890r_xc5890r_rs600_rs500_rs400_uhd.html ), under the "without autocal" section. It's the exact same thing as their profile either way. ...snip...
Thanks! In other words, on the RS400 use these settings for UHD, HDR. . and use the stripping metadata on the Oppo 203..which is a little wonky but is being worked on.
 

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Does the RS400 have WCG? Thanks.
Does 85% of DCI color space. The same as the Sony 365ES and 675ES.

Added
If you want full DCI, you have to step up to RS500/600.
 

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I have the Oppo 203 and gotta say that currently the strip metadata feature results in similar black crush issues as running HDR through it. For most films I've tested, turning off HDR resulted in the best picture.
 

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Thanks! In other words, on the RS400 use these settings for UHD, HDR. . and use the stripping metadata on the Oppo 203..which is a little wonky but is being worked on.
Not if you are stripping metadata, no. First, the UDP-203's strip metadata feature is more than a little wonky right now, though it is being worked on, and is really not something you would use currently. To really do this correctly today you'll need the Fury Integral.

Second, if you do strip metadata, you don't want to use the "stock" JVC settings for HDR with Gamma D, etc. That will result in a subpar picture. Most people use Gamma A instead of D when stripping. I can't find a good link at the moment but search this thread or check out the one dedicated to the Integral, there are JVC settings others are using posted for this use case. I'm not near my PJ atm or I'd check my settings for you (I have the Fury).

A question I do have for you RS400 owners, finding it hard to find pictures of games on this projector any places where I may find some?
Probably because very few people game on the current model JVCs :) Input lag. This is something of a sore point among JVC owners and it comes up, literally, every two-three pages of every JVC thread. That said I've seen many game SS posted in this thread alone so you should be able to find them.

There are two camps: "Input lag doesn't bother me, games are great, the rest of you are wrong" and "The input lag is horrible, no game ever made will play correctly on it, JVC is terrible for games, the rest of you are wrong". Or at least it often seems that way :)

Now that JVC has a slight refresh of their models on the way where the biggest change is, you guessed it, better input lag this debate will hopefully die soon. Though I fear it never will :)
 
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