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I apologize if this kind of issue is discussed elsewhere in the thread; I did some searching but it's now almost 5000 posts long and I haven't yet read the whole thing, which I will probably do at some point.

I've had an RS400 for about a month. It replaced a 10-year-old RS1 that I thought was fine, but the improvement even on HD content (not UHD) in brightness, color, and image detail with the RS400 is startling. So I have very little buyer's remorse. Except...

The projector is not playing well with the Apple TV 4K which is our main viewing source (mainly for Plex and streaming services). At least half the time a format change in the output signal from the ATV causes the projector to completely lose its mind (so to speak). It displays flashing vertical lines, or horizontal streaks, or a flashing version of the previous image. When this happens the only solution is to power the projector off and on again. Since it takes 1m45s for the projector to power off and another 45s for it to power on again, it takes on the order of three minutes (while we sit in the dark) to get back to what we were watching.

The ATV can be configured to match (or not) the dynamic range and/or the frame rate of the source. I get the best image results when it’s configured to match both DR and FR so that’s what I’d prefer to use. In an effort to get past this problem I’ve played with those settings. It turns out that if either setting is “on” (i.e. match the source) the sync insanity can occur. When I turn both settings off there is no signal change at all and also no sync delay, but then 4K HDR content like “The Crown” on Netflix is so muddy and dark that it’s unwatchable.

Based on discussions above it seems that the darkness problem might be addressed by installing a custom gamma curve, and I'll be trying that soon. But if both "match frame rate" and "match range" are set to "on" (my preferred setting) then—when the sync problem doesn't occur—the projector behaves perfectly with the ATV, which outputs HDR or not according to the source. The "D" gamma curve looks fine in this configuration.

Has anyone else seen this kind of anomaly? It's a huge usability headache.

I should mention that I did not replace the 25-foot HDMI cable run from the A/V receiver to the projector. I was prepared to, but during installation the existing cable seemed to work fine, and when the projector actually displays an image it still seems fine. But...might an inadequate cable account entirely for this issue?

The A/V receiver is a Sony STR-DN1080.

Thanks for any help with this.
Many of us run into this loss of sync in various situations, one of which is switching to Netflix on an external device. It seems to be a glitch that occurs if CMD is enabled. If I turn CMD off (I usually have it on low), before switching into or out of Netflix, I don't run into this problem.

So if you have CMD turned on, then turn it off, and see if the problem goes away.

This is an unfortunate bug, and given that the RS400 is now several generations old, I don't think we're going to see a fix from JVC. This has been discussed multiple times in various JVC forums. The problem may be triggered by another device, but the JVC is still at fault for not being able to handle this conflict 'gracefully,' and requiring the hard reboot.
 

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The projector is not playing well with the Apple TV 4K which is our main viewing source (mainly for Plex and streaming services). At least half the time a format change in the output signal from the ATV causes the projector to completely lose its mind (so to speak). It displays flashing vertical lines, or horizontal streaks, or a flashing version of the previous image. When this happens the only solution is to power the projector off and on again. Since it takes 1m45s for the projector to power off and another 45s for it to power on again, it takes on the order of three minutes (while we sit in the dark) to get back to what we were watching.
I saw a post (probably for the RS420) that the projector still responds to the remote while the screen goes crazy. If indeed turning off CMD eliminates the problem but you prefer CMS on, you can program the User button to turn it off which hopefully with restore the screen.

The ATV can be configured to match (or not) the dynamic range and/or the frame rate of the source. I get the best image results when it’s configured to match both DR and FR so that’s what I’d prefer to use. In an effort to get past this problem I’ve played with those settings. It turns out that if either setting is “on” (i.e. match the source) the sync insanity can occur. When I turn both settings off there is no signal change at all and also no sync delay, but then 4K HDR content like “The Crown” on Netflix is so muddy and dark that it’s unwatchable.
You can set up the ATV to do either HDR->SDR, or SDR->HDR. Have you tried both to see if one works better than the other?
 

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Tanks, then I will try the premade curves of Dominic and Manni
I suggest you first try Manni's (new) Dolby Vision Emulation curve. I posted my curves (not finely tuned) mostly to get around the "dark video" issue with the original DVE curve. The new DVE curve is quite a bit brighter.
 

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I don't know anything about Apple TV but I strongly suggest you follow my JVC 4K QuickStart guide. It is rock solid. If you follow this guide and still have issues, it's the Apple TV. A bad cable will cause lots of weird and unpredictable issues like drop outs and such. I'd make certain you do that and...it's step 1. ;)
Thanks. I've ordered the 25-foot Monoprice cable you recommended. I would have done this at installation time except that it's an awkward in-wall cable run and the installer concluded that the existing cable was just fine. I'll have to figure out how to do this myself (the installer was too expensive and I'd prefer not to have him back).
 

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Many of us run into this loss of sync in various situations, one of which is switching to Netflix on an external device. It seems to be a glitch that occurs if CMD is enabled. If I turn CMD off (I usually have it on low), before switching into or out of Netflix, I don't run into this problem.

So if you have CMD turned on, then turn it off, and see if the problem goes away.

This is an unfortunate bug, and given that the RS400 is now several generations old, I don't think we're going to see a fix from JVC. This has been discussed multiple times in various JVC forums. The problem may be triggered by another device, but the JVC is still at fault for not being able to handle this conflict 'gracefully,' and requiring the hard reboot.
Son of a gun. This may be the entire problem. I wasn't even aware of CMD. So far I've been using the projector with the settings that the installer left, and I haven't dug very deep yet.

CMD was set to High. I had never touched it, so either that's the default or the installer set it that way.

With CMD turned off I couldn't reproduce the problem in a half-hour of trying. But when I turned CMD back on the sync loss returned very quickly.

Let me ask: do I need this to be turned on at all? Does it improve the image all that much? Would I be losing much if I just left it off? Turning it off and on again is possible but would be a headache because the problem can occur with any format change, including going back to the ATV home screen when a program ends.

Thanks very much for this pointer.
 

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Let me ask: do I need this to be turned on at all? Does it improve the image all that much? Would I be losing much if I just left it off? Turning it off and on again is possible but would be a headache because the problem can occur with any format change, including going back to the ATV home screen when a program ends.
I can't stand CMD (stands for Clear Motion Drive). It was the very first thing I shut off when I turned the projector on. You probably noticed with CMD off the image looks 'normal' again. I'm not exactly sure how best to describe CMD but to me it makes the movement look unnatural and 'sped up' because it 'adds' frames to try and smooth out the motion. I do not like it at all. No harm in leaving it off.
Thanks. I've ordered the 25-foot Monoprice cable you recommended. I would have done this at installation time except that it's an awkward in-wall cable run and the installer concluded that the existing cable was just fine. I'll have to figure out how to do this myself (the installer was too expensive and I'd prefer not to have him back).
Excellent. I suggest temporarily running it across the floor for a couple days if you can, at least long enough to watch a couple 4K HDR movies to make certain it works before you pull it though the wall. As for install, tape the end of the old HDMI cable to the end of the new HDMI and pull. Try to tape to the cable so all the pressure isn't on the connector and be sure to cover the connector with tape so it doesn't get caught as you pull. If there isn't one, pull an Ethernet cable at the same time. Lastly, find a string you can't break by pulling with your own strength and pull a couple of those through too...just in case you need to pull something later. ;)
 

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Son of a gun. This may be the entire problem. I wasn't even aware of CMD. So far I've been using the projector with the settings that the installer left, and I haven't dug very deep yet.

CMD was set to High. I had never touched it, so either that's the default or the installer set it that way.

With CMD turned off I couldn't reproduce the problem in a half-hour of trying. But when I turned CMD back on the sync loss returned very quickly.

Let me ask: do I need this to be turned on at all? Does it improve the image all that much? Would I be losing much if I just left it off? Turning it off and on again is possible but would be a headache because the problem can occur with any format change, including going back to the ATV home screen when a program ends.

Thanks very much for this pointer.
Glad to help.

CMD is basically a "frame-interpolation" technique, intended to smooth out motion (see P. 39 in the RS400 manual). Some people love it, some people hate it. If you can, watch some content with and without it, and see what you prefer.

Default, most likely, was Off, so perhaps your Installer's preference is for High. But this is your projector, purchased to please your eyes, so do some experimenting, and see what you prefer. If you're fine with it off, as many are, then just leave it off, and don't worry about it!

Good luck.
 

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I am having issues with the brightness of my RS400. It just seems to have lost that "pop" it had from when I originally installed it. I have about 500 hours on this bulb. I have a 130" anamorphic setup. Acoustically transparent screen with a 1.2 gain, light controlled room.

What kind of hour life is everyone getting? I know that 130" is a little big for this lumen output, but overall it seems to have darkened considerably over the past year.
 

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I am having issues with the brightness of my RS400. It just seems to have lost that "pop" it had from when I originally installed it. I have about 500 hours on this bulb. I have a 130" anamorphic setup. Acoustically transparent screen with a 1.2 gain, light controlled room.

What kind of hour life is everyone getting? I know that 130" is a little big for this lumen output, but overall it seems to have darkened considerably over the past year.
Have you made any type of measurements to document where there has been any actual loss of brightness? I ask, because our perceptions can be pretty unreliable. We get a real thrill out of seeing something dramatic for the first time, but the overall impact will often decrease over time, even if what we're observing hasn't, because we're kind of 'used to' what we've been seeing.

That said, I'm getting near 1000 hours on my RS400, and haven't really noticed any change. And I have an even bigger screen: 160" scope screen (SI Solar White, Gain 1.3). I used the light sensor on my cell phone to 'guess-timate' the light output, using the IRE 100 pattern, and haven't detected any significant change over time. I realize that this is a poor way to measure, not likely to be particularly accurate, but possibly good enough to detect significant variations over time.

Most knowledgeable people in the forums, with experience far more extensive than mine, report this line of projectors to have fairly good and stable bulb life. But there are always exceptions, and it's certainly possible your bulb happens to be underperforming.

Another thought is that you might need to re-calibrate. There is what they call a 'gamma droop' as the bulb ages, so JVC Autocalibration would need to be repeated after several hundred hours (especially going from a brand new bulb). So that's at least something you could try to restore the 'pop' you seem to be missing.

My $.02, fwiw.
 

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Have you made any type of measurements to document where there has been any actual loss of brightness? I ask, because our perceptions can be pretty unreliable. We get a real thrill out of seeing something dramatic for the first time, but the overall impact will often decrease over time, even if what we're observing hasn't, because we're kind of 'used to' what we've been seeing.

That said, I'm getting near 1000 hours on my RS400, and haven't really noticed any change. And I have an even bigger screen: 160" scope screen (SI Solar White, Gain 1.3). I used the light sensor on my cell phone to 'guess-timate' the light output, using the IRE 100 pattern, and haven't detected any significant change over time. I realize that this is a poor way to measure, not likely to be particularly accurate, but possibly good enough to detect significant variations over time.

Most knowledgeable people in the forums, with experience far more extensive than mine, report this line of projectors to have fairly good and stable bulb life. But there are always exceptions, and it's certainly possible your bulb happens to be underperforming.

Another thought is that you might need to re-calibrate. There is what they call a 'gamma droop' as the bulb ages, so JVC Autocalibration would need to be repeated after several hundred hours (especially going from a brand new bulb). So that's at least something you could try to restore the 'pop' you seem to be missing.

My $.02, fwiw.
I have not checked the brightness with a meter and I agree that I could have just gotten used to it.

I am usually pretty decent at noticing things like this and overall the image is EXTREMELY dim on certain scenes. I watched "the watchmen" in 4k last night. I know it is a very dark movie, but overall the image quality in dark scenes was hard to discern faces at times. I watched this movie last year and didn't see the issue.

Maybe I should start from scratch on calibration. I hate to sound like a newb, but I do not know of any auto calibration on this model. Am I missing something?
 

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I have not checked the brightness with a meter and I agree that I could have just gotten used to it.

I am usually pretty decent at noticing things like this and overall the image is EXTREMELY dim on certain scenes. I watched "the watchmen" in 4k last night. I know it is a very dark movie, but overall the image quality in dark scenes was hard to discern faces at times. I watched this movie last year and didn't see the issue.

Maybe I should start from scratch on calibration. I hate to sound like a newb, but I do not know of any auto calibration on this model. Am I missing something?
500 hours is nothing. I have over 2000 hours and have no complaints with the way I have my setup configured now. I did not like the way Watchmen 4K looked at first on my projector, not at all. It is interesting that you did like it when you saw it before. Have you noticed this issue at all with HD content?

What 4K player do you own and do you have any HD Fury products?

I do have a JVC 4K QuickStart Guide that may act as a nice refresher for you and get you pointed in the right direction.
 

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I have not checked the brightness with a meter and I agree that I could have just gotten used to it.

I am usually pretty decent at noticing things like this and overall the image is EXTREMELY dim on certain scenes. I watched "the watchmen" in 4k last night. I know it is a very dark movie, but overall the image quality in dark scenes was hard to discern faces at times. I watched this movie last year and didn't see the issue.

Maybe I should start from scratch on calibration. I hate to sound like a newb, but I do not know of any auto calibration on this model. Am I missing something?
The more I think about your post, I'm more inclined to think this is a calibration issue.

JVC Autocalibration is available from JVC, using free software, but requires the purchase of a sensor, typically the Spyder 5 (usually around $100). Doing the autocalibration is fairly straightforward, but there is a moderately steep learning curve. If this is something that you have the time, patience, and orientation to pursue, I can provide a few links to get you started. But another option is to pay someone like ChadB to professionally calibrate it.

Finally, you mentioned watching a 4k movie - am I correct to assume this was a UHD Bluray Disc, with HDR? If so, that's a completely different matter. Assuming you're using the JVC Defaults, your projector will switch to "Gamma D" when it sees HDR content. This is known to be woefully inadequate, resulting in a very dark image overall. Solving this problem is possible, with excellent results very achievable, but like Autocalibration, there is a learning curve, and additional software tools and skills to acquire.

Again, depending on your level of motivation, this is something you can do yourself, but if time and general interest aren't there, a ChadB like calibrator can do this as well as part of his services.
 

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500 hours is nothing. I have over 2000 hours and have no complaints with the way I have my setup configured now. I did not like the way Watchmen 4K looked at first on my projector, not at all. It is interesting that you did like it when you saw it before. Have you noticed this issue at all with HD content?

What 4K player do you own and do you have any HD Fury products?

I do have a JVC 4K QuickStart Guide that may act as a nice refresher for you and get you pointed in the right direction.
I have an oppo UDP-203 as a source running through a Marantz AV7702MKii. Don't get me wrong, the brighter scenes are incredible, the low light just seems disappointing.

I appreciate the link to your 4k QuickStart guide. I will take a look at it.
 

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I have an oppo UDP-203 as a source running through a Marantz AV7702MKii. Don't get me wrong, the brighter scenes are incredible, the low light just seems disappointing.

I appreciate the link to your 4k QuickStart guide. I will take a look at it.
That sounds similar to my experience. Walk through those steps in the guide and take a look at the very bottom of it if you're still disappointed, that's where I found my answer.
 

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The more I think about your post, I'm more inclined to think this is a calibration issue.

JVC Autocalibration is available from JVC, using free software, but requires the purchase of a sensor, typically the Spyder 5 (usually around $100). Doing the autocalibration is fairly straightforward, but there is a moderately steep learning curve. If this is something that you have the time, patience, and orientation to pursue, I can provide a few links to get you started. But another option is to pay someone like ChadB to professionally calibrate it.

Finally, you mentioned watching a 4k movie - am I correct to assume this was a UHD Bluray Disc, with HDR? If so, that's a completely different matter. Assuming you're using the JVC Defaults, your projector will switch to "Gamma D" when it sees HDR content. This is known to be woefully inadequate, resulting in a very dark image overall. Solving this problem is possible, with excellent results very achievable, but like Autocalibration, there is a learning curve, and additional software tools and skills to acquire.

Again, depending on your level of motivation, this is something you can do yourself, but if time and general interest aren't there, a ChadB like calibrator can do this as well as part of his services.
I think it is a calibration issue as well. I just never got around to calibrating the machine 100% completely. I did use the HDR recommendations from the JVC manual. Is there a settings thread anywhere that users are posting results? I know it will not be 100% accurate.

I am going to reset to factory and start over. Thank you for the help.
 

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I think it is a calibration issue as well. I just never got around to calibrating the machine 100% completely. I did use the HDR recommendations from the JVC manual. Is there a settings thread anywhere that users are posting results? I know it will not be 100% accurate.

I am going to reset to factory and start over. Thank you for the help.
The HDR recommendations from the JVC manual are unfortunately, grossly inadequate. And there's not a simple way to just copy settings from another user. I just sent someone else from this thread a PM addressing these issues, and should help point you in the right direction:

Here is my understanding of the basic steps that needs to be done to get an accurate, consistent picture.

For regular Blu-ray:

1. JVC Auto-calibration, which utilizes a Spyder 5 sensor (about $100 on Amazon), and the Autocal software provided by JVC.

There is a somewhat steep learning curve here, although once you understand what needs to be done, actually doing it is fairly straightforward. To get an idea of what is involved here, see Posts #1 , 9 and 10 in this thread:

JVC Autocalibration Software V6 & V7

2. As part of this process, you will download, import and calibrate the "Rec709" Color Profile.

3. Once these steps are done, you would set up a User Picture Mode in one of the available slots on the Projector, give it a username so you know what it is, and then select that Rec709 Color Profile, and Gamma of 2.3 (possibly 2.4).

These steps form the foundation for viewing any material on these Projectors.

If you're up for the challenge of doing it yourself, there are plenty of people on the forum, myself included, to help you through the process. If you don't have the time, interest, or patience for this, then getting ChadB to do it for you is an excellent choice. You can check on his website, but I'm guessing NJ is within his travel area.

And to finish the process up, you could also then use the Disney WOW Disc, or a free one available for download on AVS, to tweak Brightness, Contrast, Color, etc. You would also select an appropriate Aperture to get the brightness you want, choose Dynamic Iris or not, etc.

For 3D Blu-ray:

Building on the same foundation for regular Blu-ray, you would set up a separate User Picture Mode, giving it an appropriate name, and once again select the Rec709 Color Profile, use a Gamma (anywhere from 2.1 to 2.3, to make up for some of the lost brightness), possibly with some tweaks of the Sub-gamma settings (Dark Level, Picture Tone, Brightness Level). Typically you would also select High Lamp, and open the Aperture up completely, also to maximize brightness, since you lose a lot with any of the 3D glasses. The Color Profile remains the same - Rec709.

For UHD/HDR Blu-ray:

You would set up a 3rd User Picture Mode, with an appropriate name, and here you would select the BT2020 Color Profile, since HDR uses a different color space from the Rec709 one. During the initial Autocalibration, you would have downloaded, installed and calibrated this Color Profile, just as you would have for the Rec709.

For the Gamma setting, none of the options provided by JVC, including their "Gamma D," provides acceptable results, so you need to take a different approach:

One option is to import one of the curves made by others (Javs, Manni, etc.). This can be done using either the JVC Software, or Arve's software, depending on which curve you use, and what format it is in. I have used Javs "1000nit" curve, as well as Manni's 'DCE' (Dolby Cinema Emulation) curve, and they work fairly well.

The other option is to create your own curve, which would give the best results, since it would be customized to your room, your screen and throw distance, etc. This process is addressed by multiple forum members, and information and links can be found the appropriate section of Post #1 in that JVC Autocal thread linked to above.

Again, this is not technically demanding and challenging, but there is a learning curve in order to understand how to use the software, how the various parameters affect the curve, etc. But not everybody has the time or patience to deal with this themselves, and it is something that ChadB would include in his professional calibration (and he would do a better job of it than almost any of us would be able to accomplish on our own).

In a (somewhat large) nutshell, that's most of what you need to know to get your RS400 to give you an excellent movie watching experience!

HTH!

Don
 

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The HDR recommendations from the JVC manual are unfortunately, grossly inadequate. And there's not a simple way to just copy settings from another user. I just sent someone else from this thread a PM addressing these issues, and should help point you in the right direction:

Here is my understanding of the basic steps that needs to be done to get an accurate, consistent picture.

For regular Blu-ray:

1. JVC Auto-calibration, which utilizes a Spyder 5 sensor (about $100 on Amazon), and the Autocal software provided by JVC.

There is a somewhat steep learning curve here, although once you understand what needs to be done, actually doing it is fairly straightforward. To get an idea of what is involved here, see Posts #1 , 9 and 10 in this thread:

JVC Autocalibration Software V6 & V7

2. As part of this process, you will download, import and calibrate the "Rec709" Color Profile.

3. Once these steps are done, you would set up a User Picture Mode in one of the available slots on the Projector, give it a username so you know what it is, and then select that Rec709 Color Profile, and Gamma of 2.3 (possibly 2.4).

These steps form the foundation for viewing any material on these Projectors.

If you're up for the challenge of doing it yourself, there are plenty of people on the forum, myself included, to help you through the process. If you don't have the time, interest, or patience for this, then getting ChadB to do it for you is an excellent choice. You can check on his website, but I'm guessing NJ is within his travel area.

And to finish the process up, you could also then use the Disney WOW Disc, or a free one available for download on AVS, to tweak Brightness, Contrast, Color, etc. You would also select an appropriate Aperture to get the brightness you want, choose Dynamic Iris or not, etc.

For 3D Blu-ray:

Building on the same foundation for regular Blu-ray, you would set up a separate User Picture Mode, giving it an appropriate name, and once again select the Rec709 Color Profile, use a Gamma (anywhere from 2.1 to 2.3, to make up for some of the lost brightness), possibly with some tweaks of the Sub-gamma settings (Dark Level, Picture Tone, Brightness Level). Typically you would also select High Lamp, and open the Aperture up completely, also to maximize brightness, since you lose a lot with any of the 3D glasses. The Color Profile remains the same - Rec709.

For UHD/HDR Blu-ray:

You would set up a 3rd User Picture Mode, with an appropriate name, and here you would select the BT2020 Color Profile, since HDR uses a different color space from the Rec709 one. During the initial Autocalibration, you would have downloaded, installed and calibrated this Color Profile, just as you would have for the Rec709.

For the Gamma setting, none of the options provided by JVC, including their "Gamma D," provides acceptable results, so you need to take a different approach:

One option is to import one of the curves made by others (Javs, Manni, etc.). This can be done using either the JVC Software, or Arve's software, depending on which curve you use, and what format it is in. I have used Javs "1000nit" curve, as well as Manni's 'DCE' (Dolby Cinema Emulation) curve, and they work fairly well.

The other option is to create your own curve, which would give the best results, since it would be customized to your room, your screen and throw distance, etc. This process is addressed by multiple forum members, and information and links can be found the appropriate section of Post #1 in that JVC Autocal thread linked to above.

Again, this is not technically demanding and challenging, but there is a learning curve in order to understand how to use the software, how the various parameters affect the curve, etc. But not everybody has the time or patience to deal with this themselves, and it is something that ChadB would include in his professional calibration (and he would do a better job of it than almost any of us would be able to accomplish on our own).

In a (somewhat large) nutshell, that's most of what you need to know to get your RS400 to give you an excellent movie watching experience!

HTH!

Don
Disregard, I auto answered myself :)
 
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So i just reset everything back to factory and started looking as some settings. Yes, HDR does go to gamma D and it is horrible. That fixed about 90% of the issues by switching to a, b or c. So I am assuming that the majority of you are using custom gamma curves, nothing just factory?

I am located in Arkansas and doubt i can find anyone local to do a calibration. I would rather do that if possible. I will start looking.
 
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