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aka jfinnie
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I tried, but on my 100" there is no change in my opinion.
As I say I'd be concerned your unit is in some kind of half-assed state without having all the correct information entered in the mainboard for your panels etc. On previous series projectors when a mainboard is swapped there is stuff that is supposed to happen with the memories getting dumped and transferred over to the new board.

Where / by whom was this replacement? I'd suggest getting back in touch with them. While there may be some novelty value in thinking there is a feature enabled that shouldn't be, I'm sure there will be other issues. For example; the NX9 has a colour filter in certain modes, whereas the N5 does not. If those modes are present they're unlikely to have a proper image. In the new frame adaptive DTM - do you also have a Cinema filter option? That also shouldn't be there. Edit: I see you have that option. That does mean you will have a load of colour profiles that don't do the right thing.
 

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As I say I'd be concerned your unit is in some kind of half-assed state without having all the correct information entered in the mainboard for your panels etc. On previous series projectors when a mainboard is swapped there is stuff that is supposed to happen with the memories getting dumped and transferred over to the new board.

Where / by whom was this replacement? I'd suggest getting back in touch with them. While there may be some novelty value in thinking there is a feature enabled that shouldn't be, I'm sure there will be other issues. For example; the NX9 has a colour filter in certain modes, whereas the N5 does not. If those modes are present they're unlikely to have a proper image. In the new frame adaptive DTM - do you also have a Cinema filter option? That also shouldn't be there. Edit: I see you have that option. That does mean you will have a load of colour profiles that don't do the right thing.
I contacted service with this issue to let them know about this if there will be problem in future. I probably make default configuration (there are many color profile named Xenon and so on) and ugprade to proper fw 3.1, but I want to have agreement from service.
 

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aka jfinnie
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I contacted service with this issue to let them know about this if there will be problem in future. I probably make default configuration (there are many color profile named Xenon and so on) and ugprade to proper fw 3.1, but I want to have agreement from service.
Definitely sounds wrong. From what I understand, the piece of software they're supposed to use to set this all up properly is called Service Commander and allows the correct model number to be set up (and perform other tasks such as EEPROM backup etc). Sounds like they've missed out at least that model number setting step... Make sure they don't fob you off - there is no way it can be right or OK for the unit to be in the state they've left it in.
 

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I've found the Fire stick has a couple of advantages over the Roku.



1. Works better with Amazon Prime. Real shocker there. Frame rate matching doesn't always work on the Roku. Although I've seen the reverse on other services.



2. You can set the Fire Stick to output HDR all the time if you want.



Maybe your Apple TV is better on those items though. I refuse to buy Apple products, so I don't know.



Edit: but the FS is incredibly annoying as it shows a preview of something else every time you start something. Can be skipped, but still annoying as hell.
Have the 4K FS and the ATV 4K. Hate to say it but the ATV is probably the best overall streaming device IMHO if 4k and Atmos is what you're looking for. Dont like Apple either....

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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I prefer the Roku thus far, as I'm not too concerned about Atmos except for movies that I own.
The other devices just have some annoyance, keep going back to the Roku 4k.
I use the Roku 4K as well and it has been rock solid.
 
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I prefer the Roku thus far, as I'm not too concerned about Atmos except for movies that I own.
The other devices just have some annoyance, keep going back to the Roku 4k.
What is the main “annoyance” of the Apple TV 4K?
 

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What is the main “annoyance” of the Apple TV 4K?

I'll start with mine:


1. No true 24.000p or 60.000p output for those sources. Only outputs those sources at 23.976p or 59.94p respectively, resulting in frame skips every 41 seconds.
2. No audio bitstream output for Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, Dolby Atmos, DTS-HD Master audio, DTS:X. Instead, it outputs audio to decoded PCM multichannel, and Dolby MAT 2.0 for lossy DD+ Atmos streaming services. No local Dolby Atmos/DTS:X playback from your lossless audio sources. Maximum will be PCM 7.1.
 

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Shortcut wanted

Is there a shortcut to switch between the Zoom and Auto aspect settings without having to:

1) Hit Menu,
2) Slide over a few screens,
3) Hit Up to get into the Aspect field at the bottom,
4) Choose the desired aspect setting, (itself a couple of button presses)
and then
5) Hit Menu again to clear it off the screen?

I'd really appreciate learning how to create a one or two button-press shortcut to do all of that.
 

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Is there a shortcut to switch between the Zoom and Auto aspect settings without having to:

1) Hit Menu,
2) Slide over a few screens,
3) Hit Up to get into the Aspect field at the bottom,
4) Choose the desired aspect setting, (itself a couple of button presses)
and then
5) Hit Menu again to clear it off the screen?

I'd really appreciate learning how to create a one or two button-press shortcut to do all of that.
There are 10 Installation Memories, each with its one Aspect setting. Why can’t you just create two that include the required aspect settings, and switch between them using the Setting Memory button?
 

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Is there a shortcut to switch between the Zoom and Auto aspect settings without having to:

1) Hit Menu,
2) Slide over a few screens,
3) Hit Up to get into the Aspect field at the bottom,
4) Choose the desired aspect setting, (itself a couple of button presses)
and then
5) Hit Menu again to clear it off the screen?

I'd really appreciate learning how to create a one or two button-press shortcut to do all of that.
There are 10 Installation Memories, each with its one Aspect setting. Why can you just create two that include the required aspect settings, and switch between them using the Setting Memory button?
Looking at the manual, it looks like almost as many steps would be needed to change between Installation modes.

Once they're set up, you'd
1) Hit Setting Memory,
2) Choose retrieve,
3} Choose the desired mode, and
4} Hit Menu to exit.

This is one step less, and could, I suppose, allow for a larger scope image than just choosing Zoom, by using the lens controls as well.

I'll try it out.
 

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Looking at the manual, it looks like almost as many steps would be needed to change between Installation modes.

Once they're set up, you'd
1) Hit Setting Memory,
2) Choose retrieve,
3} Choose the desired mode, and
4} Hit Menu to exit.

This is one step less, and could, I suppose, allow for a larger scope image than just choosing Zoom, by using the lens controls as well.

I'll try it out.
Step 1) directly brings up the list you can choose from, so there is no need for Step 2).
To exit you can hit the same button (Setting Memory) again.

I find that I seldom change the Aspect setting by itself in isolation; it’s usually in conjunction with the zoom, so using the Installation Modes makes a lot of sense.
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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8,424 Posts
Looking at the manual, it looks like almost as many steps would be needed to change between Installation modes.

Once they're set up, you'd
1) Hit Setting Memory,
2) Choose retrieve,
3} Choose the desired mode, and
4} Hit Menu to exit.

This is one step less, and could, I suppose, allow for a larger scope image than just choosing Zoom, by using the lens controls as well.

I'll try it out.
There are discrete codes to change lens memory to any of the 10 lens presets as well as go to zoom, auto with one button. You just need to program these into your universal remote. If you're using the JVC remote, then you're limited by the buttons it has on it.
 

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I know that lots of folks use those kinds of remotes, but my only "universal remote" is the remote for my AVR.

That would be a steep learning curve, plus a bit of an expense.
 

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Vendor
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26,667 Posts
That sounds like a good idea. I have the free spare bulb that I got with my NX7 last year and haven't even opened it up yet. But with this approach, when I do replace the current bulb a new loose lamp purchase will allow me to still have a backup. :)
You got to test your bulbs when they come in. 2-3 years down the road you put that bulb in and you have an issues, that warranty will be long over on the bulb.....
 

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45 Posts
1. No true 24.000p or 60.000p output for those sources. Only outputs those sources at 23.976p or 59.94p respectively, resulting in frame skips every 41 seconds.
Is this a visible skip? Cause every now and then, I think I see a slight jump, almost like a bad edit.
Never saw it on my Sony, but I see it on my NX5. I've been wondering about it. With my ATV4K
 
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