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i don't know how to search for specific pages, and what i remember what i seen it still didn't get my question answered. I know the optimiser is static, but i want know why it doesn't work together. I mean the technical reason, what is the correct way and why.
It will work, but double tone mapping will not provide the best picture. Dynamic tone mapping is a better system than static tone mapping. When you use static tone mapping you are limiting the range the dynamic tone mapping has to work with.
 

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Both methods have constraints and limitations, depending which specific implementation. Here is a graph from some researchers that attempted to classify varying techniques, though I would just say 'you'd have to test' any specific method before you'd really know. I don't think these classifications mean that much, but just goes to show you how 'all over the place' this stuff is, they still haven't gotten close to standardizing any of it.

 

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As for the recommendation to avoid it: I don't know that anybody has done any rigorous, objective testing as such, so it's more of a conceptual approach. The idea is to give the JVC the full, unadulterated, original HDR signal, not already tone-mapped to a certain level (which is what the HDR Optimizer does on the Panasonic). Basically, this argument says that it's better to have one device handle all the Tone-mapping, and since the JVC does this dynamically, and the Panasonic does this with a static approach, the JVC is the better choice.

The DRA Slider refers to the Dynamic Range Adjustment Slider available on the Panasonics, when you're playing HDR content. It's in the same menu where you have the choice to engage the Optimizer, and enables you to shift the curve in a brighter or darker direction. I think of this as a means to tweak the default signal to compensate for the individual factors in any given theater: screen size and gain, room conditions, projector brightness capability, etc.
Does the DRA Slider on the Panny apply ONLY to the playback of blu-ray discs or to the streaming content (i.e. NetFlix) too?
 

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Does the DRA Slider on the Panny apply ONLY to the playback of blu-ray discs or to the streaming content (i.e. NetFlix) too?
As I recall, it is available for any HDR content, both Disc and Streaming (I'm about 95% certain there). Since getting the NX7, I've mostly used the Roku Premiere+ for the occasional streaming I do in my Theater Room, since I would no longer use/need the Panny's Optimizer. Many of us found the Panny's Amazon app to be problematic, with frequent 'stuttering' despite solid, hard-wired connections. It is possible that this has changed, as it's been quite a while since I've tried it, again relying on the Roku.
 

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Does the DRA Slider on the Panny apply ONLY to the playback of blu-ray discs or to the streaming content (i.e. NetFlix) too?
It works in streaming, but the UI for streaming is mega-bad and laggy and just feels 'wrong'.

Also, I think there are fewer adjustments available in the other area when using streaming (less tone adjustments), but you can do the full generic dynamic adjustment, but would have to look again. I didn't personally experience any stuttering, but didn't watch it very much. The IR receiver is also the worst of any device I've ever owned, most people are going to need an IR repeater unless they get line of sight perfect, and the IR repeater might add more lag to an already laggy UI.

It's ok in a pinch though, one more streaming device to play around with.
 

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Since getting the NX7, I've mostly used the Roku Premiere+ for the occasional streaming I do in my Theater Room, since I would no longer use/need the Panny's Optimizer.
Does the Roku have the equivalent of Panasonic’s DRA?
 

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Does the Roku have the equivalent of Panasonic’s DRA?
It doesn't, Dominic. It would be nice if it did, but with the limited HDR content I've watched on it (Amazon and Netflix), I actually haven't felt the need for it thus far.

I have mentioned this before, but I watched 6 Underground (Netflix) with it a week or two ago, and the picture quality rivaled my best HDR discs.

I am mostly disc-based in my Theater, so others who watch more streaming content might come across content that would benefit from the slider, but so far I haven't.
 

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It doesn't, Dominic. It would be nice if it did, but with the limited HDR content I've watched on it (Amazon and Netflix), I actually haven't felt the need for it thus far.

I have mentioned this before, but I watched 6 Underground (Netflix) with it a week or two ago, and the picture quality rivaled my best HDR discs.

I am mostly disc-based in my Theater, so others who watch more streaming content might come across content that would benefit from the slider, but so far I haven't.
Only once have i really needed tone mapping in streaming, watching Mythica 4 on Amazon, but the tone in the source wasn't perfect, regardless. It was fake HDR (as in poorly done or lacked proper metadata), and it looked better watching on Roku without HDR on Amazon than watching it on the Firestick 4k or Panny in HDR. There is content that is too dark where the Panny HDR slider can come in handy, but workarounds are simple enough even on older JVC's. I did have to increase the aperture for Netflix a few times, but didn't absolutely need a tone mapper adjustment, but for those of us on smaller screen, it's not as critical to have any tone mapping.
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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I know that lots of folks use those kinds of remotes, but my only "universal remote" is the remote for my AVR.

That would be a steep learning curve, plus a bit of an expense.
You're out of luck then. Sorry. These codes are only available to be programmed into a remote that can accept a pronto code.
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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What's the typical life of the bulbs on these? I have a relatively new (130 hrs.) RS1000.
I'd say about 3000-3500 hours if you always run low lamp, about 1500-1800 hours if you always run high lamp.
 

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I've now set up a second Installation Mode for pure scope films.

The shorter vertical of the scope image enables me to use both a bit more real lens zoom and the digital "Aspect" zoom, since I can shift the enlarged scope image higher up on the wall to avoid being shadowed by my hair. (I'm glad I thought to paint the ceiling - as well as the side walls - matte black in the front half of the room.)

The combination of these three beneficial tweaks makes the few steps needed to change between my "16:9 & VAR" and "SCOPE" setups worthwhile, and the availability of the greater lens zoom in the SCOPE setup mitigates the loss of digital zoom on 3D scope films, regaining for 3D scope films most of the size I had for digitally-zoomed 2D scope films in my single setup.

And it's at least one step fewer than simply toggling the Aspect setting, since when you slide over to the page where either of those is adjusted, the Mode field is where you land.
 

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I'd say about 3000-3500 hours if you always run low lamp, about 1500-1800 hours if you always run high lamp.
wonder if anyone has switched out yet - I'm coming up on 1500 hrs -
125" scope screen - high HDR - low everything else-(bat cave)
seeing no issues with brightness thus far -have not even touched iris yet (-10 on sdr/ open HDR)
have no measuring gear - looks great -
Don't mind switching out bulb once on year on high usage but looks like original bulb may have legs
 

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Looks like your bulb, like you, is a marathon runner!

I'm running in High Lamp and High HDR, since I have a large low gain (0.93) screen, but I'm only at 130 hours after about three months, though my use may accelerate.

I'll probably buy a new JVC bulb+housing and stockpile a bare bulb or two to put into the original housing, which ought to carry me for quite a few years!
 
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wonder if anyone has switched out yet - I'm coming up on 1500 hrs -

125" scope screen - high HDR - low everything else-(bat cave)

seeing no issues with brightness thus far -have not even touched iris yet (-10 on sdr/ open HDR)

have no measuring gear - looks great -

Don't mind switching out bulb once on year on high usage but looks like original bulb may have legs


1500 hours in a bat cave will lead one to become “batty”. I am lucky to get 300 hours a year in my room.
 
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1500 hours in a bat cave will lead one to become “batty”. I am lucky to get 300 hours a year in my room.
What I do is invite friends over as much as possible - my best friend comes over almost every week (he also helped out with the setup - he found a speaker wire lost behind a wall with a tone generator and a "Hello Kitty" transistor radio to detect the signal! - and he used an oscilloscope to determine the phase of the external amp driving the ceiling speakers).
 

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1500 hours in a bat cave will lead one to become “batty”.
The average person is awake about 5800 hours per year. 1500 hours is only 1 out of 4 hours watching movies. That still leaves 3 hours to try to regain your sanity back before returning for another showing.
 

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The average person is awake about 5800 hours per year. 1500 hours is only 1 out of 4 hours watching movies. That still leaves 3 hours to try to regain your sanity back before returning for another showing.
Wow. I'm doing good if I watch one movie every week or two! :)

Often it's just one per month when me and some friends get together for a movie night.
 

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The average person is awake about 5800 hours per year. 1500 hours is only 1 out of 4 hours watching movies. That still leaves 3 hours to try to regain your sanity back before returning for another showing.
shows how little time we have to do things we love - I have no idea how I survived working till 50 with my interests-
add in my physical activity and joy of reading and hrs are pretty much pretty done for day-
Internet is destroyer for most - reading up on current usage - numbers are staggering
 
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