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I apologize if this has been discussed and or asked already...

Is there any lost of light output or reduction in brightness with the NX7 if it is mounted further back from the screen, or is better to keep it as close to the screen (within required distance) to keep a brighter image?

Looking at either the C-DCR lens which would require me to mount at a minimum distance of 16' or a DCR lens @ 14'

-Thanks

sorry for the emoji, not sure how it got there or how to get rid of it
Generally speaking, closer will be brighter. My throw is 14' lens to screen too.
 

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I do most of my movie, television, and game playing at night between 7:00PM and 2:00AM. That ends up putting a lot of hours on the projector but I really enjoy it. I use the daylight hours for all my physical activities so I don't feel like I am missing out on a lot.
Many people talk about TV veiwing in the day, many people are concerned about this even though most do not watch TV during the day.....I know I rarely watch TV during the day...
 

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Same with me...projector ONLY for movies...all other viewing on my 85” Sony (hockey etc)...have had projector since August, only 230 hours on it


Same movies for me only. I have a tv in the other room when I need to watch sports or anything else. I usually watch a movie a night ( late ).
 

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Same movies for me only. I have a tv in the other room when I need to watch sports or anything else. I usually watch a movie a night ( late ).
For me, I have no issues regarding the hours I put on the projector/bulb however I kinda think of watching something in my HT as like opening up a special bottle of wine. I look at playing vinyl (vs. digital) on my 2 channel system in the same way, but who asked anyway?
 

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I apologize if this has been discussed and or asked already...

Is there any lost of light output or reduction in brightness with the NX7 if it is mounted further back from the screen, or is better to keep it as close to the screen (within required distance) to keep a brighter image?

Looking at either the C-DCR lens which would require me to mount at a minimum distance of 16' or a DCR lens @ 14'

-Thanks

sorry for the emoji, not sure how it got there or how to get rid of it
Generally speaking, closer will be brighter. My throw is 14' lens to screen too.
As Craig indicated, closer is brighter. This is balanced by the contrast increasing with distance. You change one at the expense of the other.

I don't know that Projector Central's calculator is accurate in terms of actual light level estimates, but I threw in your figures, and it came up with 30 fL at 14' vs 28 fL at 16' (assuming a unity gain screen). Again, those actual numbers might or might not be accurate, but hopefully the relative values will provide some guidance.
 

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I apologize if this has been discussed and or asked already...

Is there any lost of light output or reduction in brightness with the NX7 if it is mounted further back from the screen, or is better to keep it as close to the screen (within required distance) to keep a brighter image?

Looking at either the C-DCR lens which would require me to mount at a minimum distance of 16' or a DCR lens @ 14'

-Thanks

sorry for the emoji, not sure how it got there or how to get rid of it
Yes. The closer you can mount to the screen, the brighter the image. The farther back from the screen, less brightness.
 

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MadVR for dummies

Hi Folks...


Is there a MAdVR for dummies thread? There seems to be a few threads out there and I want to ensure I'm accessing the right one...Could someone please point me in the right direction...? Looking to build an HTPC with MadVR to take my video to the next level...Is it a big undertaking? Seems like there are a million settings...Thanks
 

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As Craig indicated, closer is brighter. This is balanced by the contrast increasing with distance. You change one at the expense of the other.

I don't know that Projector Central's calculator is accurate in terms of actual light level estimates, but I threw in your figures, and it came up with 30 fL at 14' vs 28 fL at 16' (assuming a unity gain screen). Again, those actual numbers might or might not be accurate, but hopefully the relative values will provide some guidance.
For the sake of argument, let's say Projector Central's numbers are correct; would one notice the difference, 30 fl to 28fl? Would one notice the contrast gain or loss?
 

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For the sake of argument, let's say Projector Central's numbers are correct; would one notice the difference, 30 fl to 28fl? Would one notice the contrast gain or loss?
I'll be interested to hear what others say, but I would think that if you did a careful, side-by-side comparison, where you could compare them in real time, that you would notice a subtle difference in brightness overall. Using those numbers, going from 28 to 30 represents just over 7% gain, which is likely observable, but fairly small. And I would guess that contrast differences, if observable, would be even more subtle.

But, "let's hear from the majority" (- an obscure 'Producers' reference, for lovers of that movie)!
 

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Another thing to consider in the discussion of where the projector is mounted is noise. Although I find the fan in high on the NX7 to be less noticeable than the RS520, I'm happy to keep the mount point further back to keep the unit away from the viewer. While I may be losing a bit of brightness, I think it's worth not having the projector right over head.
 

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Another thing to consider in the discussion of where the projector is mounted is noise. Although I find the fan in high on the NX7 to be less noticeable than the RS520, I'm happy to keep the mount point further back to keep the unit away from the viewer. While I may be losing a bit of brightness, I think it's worth not having the projector right over head.
I second the noise issue in regards to projector placement. My NX5 is right over my head and it's too loud in high lamp mode. Not sure if its worth the work to move it about 5 ft back?
 

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Latest IR Codes?

I use Control4, via IR, to control the NX7 in my system, and overall it is fantastic. I've even been able to add discrete IR codes for instant access to Anamorphic Codes C and D with my Control4 remote, which really comes in handy.

The one remaining thing I would like to have is discrete, direct access to select "Medium" or "High" for HDR Level when using Frame Adapt mode. I can set up a Control4 macro do this through a sequence of commands, as if using the JVC remote, but it would be a lot better to have direct access.

I've searched, but haven't discovered any recent updates to the codes that have been published in the past. I'm posting because I wonder if I've either overlooked some, or if somebody has been able to 'retro-engineer' a way of doing this.

Thanks.
 

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Hi all not sure if this has been answered already, but when should one do a retouch on Autocal for my RS2000? After 100 hrs? Give or take?
Currently using Spyder X for gamma and ES2000 for color. I also noticed on my Xfinity 4K cable box sdr cable channels looks undersaturated compared with other sdr sources say like Apple TV 4K and Firestick.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Hi all not sure if this has been answered already, but when should one do a retouch on Autocal for my RS2000? After 100 hrs? Give or take?
Currently using Spyder X for gamma and ES2000 for color. I also noticed on my Xfinity 4K cable box sdr cable channels looks undersaturated compared with other sdr sources say like Apple TV 4K and Firestick.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
That depends on hour many hours are already on the projector. Gamma droop develops quite fast in the beginning but slows down as time goes on. Just run Autocal in Log Only mode whenever you want to check.
 

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Is that to compare the blue (before) gamma line with the white (corrected) one ?
If you run Log Only there will be only one line, no before/after.

Check that line is straight diagonal, and more importantly, check the Color Temp tab to make sure the grey and white are all consistent.
 
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