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N7 here and I am a bit concerned about white field uniformity. It's good at an aperture of about -7. Its acceptable at 0 with a slight shift to green towards the right but not noticeable during normal use. However at small aperture numbers like -15 there is significant difference between left and right sides.

On previous JVC projectors I definitely noticed a colour temperature shift from closed to open but not uneven across the frame!

I saw one post describing exactly this earlier in this thread on an RS3000 but no further mention of this unless I am searching the wrong keywords

Have others noticed this?

Slight light corners in the lower corners only too. But overall image is stunning
 

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On previous JVC projectors I definitely noticed a colour temperature shift from closed to open but not uneven across the frame!
Colour temperature shift with aperture still occurs on the new models, but can be easily corrected using the autocal software.
 

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On previous JVC projectors I definitely noticed a colour temperature shift from closed to open but not uneven across the frame!
Colour temperature shift with aperture still occurs on the new models, but can be easily corrected using the autocal software.

That's good but it won't help the fact the left and right sides of the image at -15 are a significantly different colour temperature.
 

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N7 here and I am a bit concerned about white field uniformity. It's good at an aperture of about -7. Its acceptable at 0 with a slight shift to green towards the right but not noticeable during normal use. However at small aperture numbers like -15 there is significant difference between left and right sides.

On previous JVC projectors I definitely noticed a colour temperature shift from closed to open but not uneven across the frame!

I saw one post describing exactly this earlier in this thread on an RS3000 but no further mention of this unless I am searching the wrong keywords

Have others noticed this?

Slight light corners in the lower corners only too. But overall image is stunning
Yeah, It is common. I have seen this shift from blue-green on one side to pinkish hue on the other side with multiple units. It must have something to do with the way the iris effects the image as it is most noticeable at smaller iris settings of less than -7.

I am actually surprised more people don't complain about this as I noticed it right away and found it to be common among multiple units. The current RS3000 I have has a slight amount of the problem below -10 or so but much better than some of my previous units.
 

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Colour temperature shift with aperture still occurs on the new models, but can be easily corrected using the autocal software.
No, that isn't the issue. There is another issue that can't be fixed with autocal. It is a gradient of color across the screen. It is blue-green on one side and pink on the other side. It is most noticeable with lower iris settings below -7. At 0 it isn't even visible but set the iris at -15 and it becomes apparent if you are sensitive to color.
 

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No, that isn't the issue. There is another issue that can't be fixed with autocal. It is a gradient of color across the screen. It is blue-green on one side and pink on the other side. It is most noticeable with lower iris settings below -7. At 0 it isn't even visible but set the iris at -15 and it becomes apparent if you are sensitive to color.
I understand that. If you look at the quoted text from the OP, I was simply pointing out the other issue exists on both the new and old models, and can be fixed.
 

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For me, I have no issues regarding the hours I put on the projector/bulb however I kinda think of watching something in my HT as like opening up a special bottle of wine. I look at playing vinyl (vs. digital) on my 2 channel system in the same way, but who asked anyway?
At $125 per bulb, I would not be to worried about bulbs either......

Another thing to consider in the discussion of where the projector is mounted is noise. Although I find the fan in high on the NX7 to be less noticeable than the RS520, I'm happy to keep the mount point further back to keep the unit away from the viewer. While I may be losing a bit of brightness, I think it's worth not having the projector right over head.
Hush box

I second the noise issue in regards to projector placement. My NX5 is right over my head and it's too loud in high lamp mode. Not sure if its worth the work to move it about 5 ft back?
Why not build a hush box, probably be a lot cheaper and easier.....

Speaking of hush boxes, anyone out there have a hush box build thread or post so we can look at?
 

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That depends on hour many hours are already on the projector. Gamma droop develops quite fast in the beginning but slows down as time goes on. Just run Autocal in Log Only mode whenever you want to check.
last autocal done at 416 hrs. Currently have approx 580 hrs. on bulb.
 

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How can I check to see what mounts will work with a RS1000? I currently have a Peerless Universal Mount with gear adjustment rated for up to 50lbs. The PJ specs show 43lbs.

Any idea if this would be an acceptable mount? My current PJ is much smaller and lighter.

The mount is: Peerless Universal Mount - PRS-UNV-B. Here is a link to a description.

Thanks!
 

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Lens Center function on NX7

Setting up an NX7. Does the 'LENS CENTER' function engaged from Menu > Installation Mode > Lens Control > Lens Center, actually center the lens within the projector? Or does it memorize the current position of the lens?

If Lens Control doesn't actually center the lens, what is the best way to center the lens? It would seem that all 'Shifting' to position the image on the screen should begin with a centered lens. No?
 

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How can I check to see what mounts will work with a RS1000? I currently have a Peerless Universal Mount with gear adjustment rated for up to 50lbs. The PJ specs show 43lbs.

Any idea if this would be an acceptable mount? My current PJ is much smaller and lighter.

The mount is: Peerless Universal Mount - PRS-UNV-B. Here is a link to a description.

Thanks!
A few of us use the exact same mount...I use mine with the supplied Spyder legs, and I have no issues...Many use the Chief RPMA-281...YMMV...
 

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Same here - 4 or 5 movies a week max. Unless my wife is out of town, then who knows - double features with Blanton's !
Good friend brought me some Indian Whisky from India
trip tonight - I made some homemade pizza - good night - whisky gone now 😁 - going to fire up some John Wick#1 UHD for our viewing pleasure
 

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Good friend brought me some Indian Whisky from India

trip tonight - I made some homemade pizza - good night - whisky gone now - going to fire up some John Wick#1 UHD for our viewing pleasure


Sounds like the perfect evening to me! That pizza looks insane!

Getting ready to sit down and enjoy a movie myself tonight. John Wick #2 is my favourite movie. I haven’t watched #3 yet (I’ve owned it since it came out, but I’ve been waiting for my new theater to get set up before watching!), so perhaps I should do the same. Watch 1 and 2 again before watching 3.


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I’m hoping someone can provide some feedback regarding the suitability of an N7 in my environment.

I have a 135” diagonal AT screen with about a 1.1 gain. Projector would be around 4.5m away, ceiling mounted. My room is completely light-controlled, black velvet side curtains, Rosco-painted ceiling, and black shag rugs on the floor. With the new dynamic tone mapping, how would HDR appear in such a room? I’m sure I could get a great picture, but would there be much HDR “pop”?

Thanks for any thoughts.
 

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I’m hoping someone can provide some feedback regarding the suitability of an N7 in my environment.

I have a 135” diagonal AT screen with about a 1.1 gain. Projector would be around 4.5m away, ceiling mounted. My room is completely light-controlled, black velvet side curtains, Rosco-painted ceiling, and black shag rugs on the floor. With the new dynamic tone mapping, how would HDR appear in such a room? I’m sure I could get a great picture, but would there be much HDR “pop”?

Thanks for any thoughts.
Similar set up to me...if you have a true 1.1 gain screen, IMO, you should do well...I’m running a 125” 2.35 true 1.0 gain screen...r u 16:9 or 2.35?

I get tons of pop with 30 FL...I’m busy covering all my Roscoe paint with triple black velvet...the room is about 85% black velvet now...the more velvet the better for POP!

How many nits/FL are u getting now?
 

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Yeah, It is common. I have seen this shift from blue-green on one side to pinkish hue on the other side with multiple units. It must have something to do with the way the iris effects the image as it is most noticeable at smaller iris settings of less than -7.



I am actually surprised more people don't complain about this as I noticed it right away and found it to be common among multiple units. The current RS3000 I have has a slight amount of the problem below -10 or so but much better than some of my previous units.
Is this what you have seen? This is worst case at -15.


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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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Is this what you have seen? This is worst case at -15.
Hows your convergence? Off more on the left than the right? Perhaps a zone convergence would help in this case.
 
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