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Guys i wonder if you can give me a few pointers on ceiling projector fixing.

So this is my current Sony projector:


So i converted my attic into a small cinema room, as you can see the ceiling in in an angle because of the roof. So we installed a suspended ceiling hiding the apex of the roof and creating a zone where i could put lights, run cables and eventually hang a projector from.


So this Sony is not super heavy it's about 10kg, so we fixed it directly into the drywall ceiling with butterlfy plugs, i'm sure it's not the best way to do it but at the time it worked and has been up there for some years now.

Now the new beast seen here wrapped on a barbecue table (just for testing purposes :) )


It weights about double the Sony, so while waiting on the the Chief mount i've been thinking about this, and i'm really worried and afraid, and i decided not to install the JVC without reinforcing somehow that area.
Does anyone here have experience in fixing ceiling projectors and suspended ceilings that can give a few pointers?
When the outbreak calms down i plan to get some ceiling guys here to fix this, but they might have limited experience with cinema projectors, so if you guys could give me some pointers for me to take notes and talk to them eventually on what should be done, maybe some kind of metal grill above the drywall?

Also if this is the wrong forum area sorry, is there a better plate to put this up?
 

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Guys i wonder if you can give me a few pointers on ceiling projector fixing.

So this is my current Sony projector:


So i converted my attic into a small cinema room, as you can see the ceiling in in an angle because of the roof. So we installed a suspended ceiling hiding the apex of the roof and creating a zone where i could put lights, run cables and eventually hang a projector from.


So this Sony is not super heavy it's about 10kg, so we fixed it directly into the drywall ceiling with butterlfy plugs, i'm sure it's not the best way to do it but at the time it worked and has been up there for some years now.

Now the new beast seen here wrapped on a barbecue table (just for testing purposes :) )


It weights about double the Sony, so while waiting on the the Chief mount i've been thinking about this, and i'm really worried and afraid, and i decided not to install the JVC without reinforcing somehow that area.
Does anyone here have experience in fixing ceiling projectors and suspended ceilings that can give a few pointers?
When the outbreak calms down i plan to get some ceiling guys here to fix this, but they might have limited experience with cinema projectors, so if you guys could give me some pointers for me to take notes and talk to them eventually on what should be done, maybe some kind of metal grill above the drywall?

Also if this is the wrong forum area sorry, is there a better plate to put this up?
A few options. Secure the ceiling plate to the joists and drop tube that extends down through the drop ceiling. If no joist in the area where you want to mount the projector, you could screw wood blocking to the ceiling, hitting two or more joist and then attach the ceiling plate and drop tube. Another method would be to get a drop ceiling plate to replace the panel in the ceiling. You would need to have support wires at all four corners of the panel and the wires need to be connected to solid structure above. I would go one of the first two methods. As for your Sony, no installer that knows what he is doing would ever mount a projector, just to drywall. I am surprised your projector has not hit the floor.
https://www.legrandav.com/products/chief/accessories/projector/suspended_ceiling/suspended_kits
 

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A few options. Secure the ceiling plate to the joists and drop tube that extends down through the drop ceiling. If no joist in the area where you want to mount the projector, you could screw wood blocking to the ceiling, hitting two or more joist and then attach the ceiling plate and drop tube. Another method would be to get a drop ceiling plate to replace the panel in the ceiling. You would need to have support wires at all four corners of the panel and the wires need to be connected to solid structure above. I would go one of the first two methods. As for your Sony, no installer that knows what he is doing would ever mount a projector, just to drywall. I am surprised your projector has not hit the floor.
https://www.legrandav.com/products/chief/accessories/projector/suspended_ceiling/suspended_kits
Theres two joist that run along the ceiling at the edges, you gave me some options, thank you, i need to think :)
 

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A few options. Secure the ceiling plate to the joists and drop tube that extends down through the drop ceiling. If no joist in the area where you want to mount the projector, you could screw wood blocking to the ceiling, hitting two or more joist and then attach the ceiling plate and drop tube. Another method would be to get a drop ceiling plate to replace the panel in the ceiling. You would need to have support wires at all four corners of the panel and the wires need to be connected to solid structure above. I would go one of the first two methods. As for your Sony, no installer that knows what he is doing would ever mount a projector, just to drywall. I am surprised your projector has not hit the floor.
https://www.legrandav.com/products/chief/accessories/projector/suspended_ceiling/suspended_kits
For reference, here's a picture of my RS3000 installation using a Chief mount.
 

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For reference, here's a picture of my RS3000 installation using a Chief mount.
Sweet thank you!

your column is attached to that wood joist, how did you fix it there, how to keep it from slipping of the metal braces, does it have some kind of screw? Is there a Chief part number for those braces?

Thank you.
 

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Sweet thank you!

your column is attached to that wood joist, how did you fix it there, how to keep it from slipping of the metal braces, does it have some kind of screw? Is there a Chief part number for those braces?

Thank you.
The column is a chief CMA018 18" Fixed Column. It is held in place using 2 "U" bolts with metal backup plates purchased at a local hardware store. The backup plates are located on the other side of the joist to provide a more solid surface for the "U" bolt nuts. I also added a short bolt through the side of the column to prevent any possibility of the column moving vertically. The bolt head rests against the top edge of the "U" bolt preventing the possibility of the column moving down. In addition I added a thread on collar (the blue thing on top of the column) so that the wires going down the column wouldn't get nicked. This was first installed almost 13 years ago to support my JVC RS1 and has provided a very reliable solution since then. Of course the Chief RPM184 Projector Mount and SLM281 Mounting Plate are added to the bottom of the column.
 

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Theres two joist that run along the ceiling at the edges, you gave me some options, thank you, i need to think :)
I had some drywall guys doing some other work at my house and asked them to build out some plywood between the joists in my HT room. Anchor bolts are just not a viable solution no matter the weight specs of the anchor bolts. Eventually over time the anchors may shift and weaken. Hope this helps. Be safe be kind and be well everyone.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke
 
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From what i have seen, Active cables are better for long runs (this is my understanding, i could be wrong), this is prior to fiber HDMI. Monoprice is known for having decent HDMI cables. The cable you sent is not an Active cable which "theoretically" is less likely to work, than the cable I got at the 30' distance.
hi one thing I can tell you and this is for SURE is premium certified is THE only guarantee when comes to longer length HDMI cables, if you want any surety at all, and want to eliminate one variable best ways would be to utilise premium certified cable. they ARE certified to work.
I( will say I have seen people still have issues with HDMI certified cables but I have not seen anyone having issues with Fiber HDMI cables.
No cable is infallible, cables can fail and hdmi is a whole signal path thing. One thing falls over it’s a domino thing. Your experience with fibre is limited in that case I would suggest if seen no one with issues. In our tiny market I can point you to folk with failed fibre due to faults, folks with handshake issues, no signals all fibre.
 

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I( will say I have seen people still have issues with HDMI certified cables but I have not seen anyone having issues with Fiber HDMI cables.


My projector is in another room with the gear and my HDMI length to my Marantz av8805 is 3m. Is it worth me changing to Fiber HDMI Cable ?

I didn’️t think it was caused by Hdmi cables but if it I will change ASAP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
At 3m absolutely no need. Use premium certified mono price or other. Certified to work. Fibre is good for greater than 10m lengths. Eg 15m and such where no choice but to use fibre
 

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I think for long runs fiber is the way to go (i might be wrong) i got one of these for a 12 meter run (39 feet):
https://www.stereo.net.au/news/ruipro-announces-next-gen-8k-hdmi-cables


Already tested it with normal HDR 4K and passed with flying colours
for 12m, ie over 10m i am only aware of one premium certified cable, this gtek 15m which may not be available where you are

https://www.egline.com.au/product-page/certified-premium-high-speed-hdmi-cables-v2-0-ultrahd-15m

so yes options limited and typically over 10m as i indicated folk tend to use fibre... 10m and under fibre is really not necessary given the premium certified cables commonly available and at very affordable prices :)

for @Franin there is absolutely no need to change his 3m for a fibre.

in his local market can pick up the prolink 3m premium certified for $33.95 with 5 year local warranty

or if has amazon prime membership the mono price 10ft or 3m premium certified at only $15.30 :)

https://www.amazon.com.au/Monoprice-115429-HDMI-Cable-1/dp/B01GCGKK82/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/358-0538993-8198709?
 

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At 3m absolutely no need. Use premium certified mono price or other. Certified to work. Fibre is good for greater than 10m lengths. Eg 15m and such where no choice but to use fibre
so i got one of these cables from Monoprice to see if the "certified Premium" will finally end this madness. Were pretty close to the threshold at 10m where I could go Fiber, or try this cable out. I have had no issues today so far with any video. Hopefully Monoprice ships soon, i know they are delayed.


https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=301&cp_id=30101&cs_id=3010101&p_id=32992&seq=1&format=2
 

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Interesting comparison as Phil Hinton reviewed both the NX-9 and the NX-5 regarding brightness and contrast. Basic interpretation I see is the NX-9 is not quite as bright, has a better black floor, has better contrast, has better sharpness, and more saturated colors versus the NX-5. The thing that stands out is the brightness difference. I realize the bulb and projector variance factor is in play but it seems like the NX-5 had better brightness at both ends of the zoom range. Is the color filter making that much of a difference?

Taken from NX-9 Review:
We measured a peak brightness of 245 nits on a 10% window at approximately half zoom. This increases to 267 nits with no zoom and decreases to 76 nits on maximum zoom. This is with the projector positioned 13ft from our screen surface, which is a Screen Excellence Enlightor 4K. On/Off contrast measures in at 41,628:1 (267.1/0.006) at minimum zoom and 126,107:1 (75.9/0.001) at full zoom and the manual iris was open to full for all measurements. Results will vary from projector to projector as they are bulb based, so factors like screen and room also have an impact. However, this should give you a general idea of possible performance.

Taken from the NX-5 review:
We measured 460nits in the best D65 capable HDR mode (Frame Adapt) and contrast measured in at 47,734:1 (460/0.01) with no zoom and 47,874:1 (304.9/0.006) at full zoom with the manual iris wide open. Results like these will vary from projector to projector as they are bulb based and each age differently, but the contrast results are very close to those advertised by JVC.

Thoughts?
the brightness am sure relates to the n5 not having the filter vs n7 and nx9 doing so. that said there is nothing stopping not running the filter of the n7 and nx9 but then will loose colour saturation, as they highlight as one of "The Bad" or the n5,

"Verdict.
The Good
Excellent SDR picture quality
Excellent HDR picture quality
Frame Adapt dynamic tone mapping
Good calibration controls
Excellent black levels and shadow details
Very good 3D playback
Motorised lens shift, zoom, focus
The Bad
No motorised lens cover
Slightly lacking absolute colour saturation for HDR
Auto Calibration needs to feature all high-end meters"Slightly lacking absolute colour saturation for HDR"
 

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for 12m, ie over 10m i am only aware of one premium certified cable, this gtek 15m which may not be available where you are

https://www.egline.com.au/product-page/certified-premium-high-speed-hdmi-cables-v2-0-ultrahd-15m

so yes options limited and typically over 10m as i indicated folk tend to use fibre... 10m and under fibre is really not necessary given the premium certified cables commonly available and at very affordable prices :)

for @Franin there is absolutely no need to change his 3m for a fibre.

in his local market can pick up the prolink 3m premium certified for $33.95 with 5 year local warranty

or if has amazon prime membership the mono price 10ft or 3m premium certified at only $15.30 :)

https://www.amazon.com.au/Monoprice-115429-HDMI-Cable-1/dp/B01GCGKK82/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/358-0538993-8198709?



Cleveland Plasma suggested https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QS98N68/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2P2S0WOWR2NTI&psc=1


Cheap enough for me.
 

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always welcome to do totally as wish...however if only need 30ft as indicated earlier why would buy a 50ft cable ? and also why not premium certified when that option exists ? in quality cables at a fraction of cost ? sorry i dont understand why would not do this at all. however it is totally your choice and do what ever feel happy with :)
 

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Interesting comparison as Phil Hinton reviewed both the NX-9 and the NX-5 regarding brightness and contrast. Basic interpretation I see is the NX-9 is not quite as bright, has a better black floor, has better contrast, has better sharpness, and more saturated colors versus the NX-5. The thing that stands out is the brightness difference. I realize the bulb and projector variance factor is in play but it seems like the NX-5 had better brightness at both ends of the zoom range. Is the color filter making that much of a difference?

Taken from NX-9 Review:
We measured a peak brightness of 245 nits on a 10% window at approximately half zoom. This increases to 267 nits with no zoom and decreases to 76 nits on maximum zoom. This is with the projector positioned 13ft from our screen surface, which is a Screen Excellence Enlightor 4K. On/Off contrast measures in at 41,628:1 (267.1/0.006) at minimum zoom and 126,107:1 (75.9/0.001) at full zoom and the manual iris was open to full for all measurements. Results will vary from projector to projector as they are bulb based, so factors like screen and room also have an impact. However, this should give you a general idea of possible performance.

Taken from the NX-5 review:
We measured 460nits in the best D65 capable HDR mode (Frame Adapt) and contrast measured in at 47,734:1 (460/0.01) with no zoom and 47,874:1 (304.9/0.006) at full zoom with the manual iris wide open. Results like these will vary from projector to projector as they are bulb based and each age differently, but the contrast results are very close to those advertised by JVC.

Thoughts?
the brightness am sure relates to the n5 not having the filter vs n7 and nx9 doing so. that said there is nothing stopping not running the filter of the n7 and nx9 but then will loose colour saturation, as they highlight as one of "The Bad" or the n5,

"Verdict.
The Good
Excellent SDR picture quality
Excellent HDR picture quality
Frame Adapt dynamic tone mapping
Good calibration controls
Excellent black levels and shadow details
Very good 3D playback
Motorised lens shift, zoom, focus
The Bad
No motorised lens cover
Slightly lacking absolute colour saturation for HDR
Auto Calibration needs to feature all high-end meters"Slightly lacking absolute colour saturation for HDR"
Just curious what you or others may have measured as brightness differences using the filter vs no filter?
One other question I had is the difference between color saturation and color volume. If both projectors have the same lamps when you insert a color filter in the path the saturation may increase but it seems the color volume would then have to decrease as the brightness has decreased due to the filter. Does that sound right or am I climbing the wrong tree:).
 

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Just curious what you or others may have measured as brightness differences using the filter vs no filter?
One other question I had is the difference between color saturation and color volume. If both projectors have the same lamps when you insert a color filter in the path the saturation may increase but it seems the color volume would then have to decrease as the brightness has decreased due to the filter. Does that sound right or am I climbing the wrong tree:).
hi clark, I have measured my n7 with and without filter, in FL, though keeping in mind i run a relatively smaller screen output is really not a bother and i use the filter and achieving ~ 100nits/30FL for HDR easy so happy :) folks not using filter i suspect be those with larger scope screens and such that need ever nit can get hands on :D but the option is there if want it. there is more to n7 and n9 i do believe in being a different light engine with the n7 for better contrast. that is far more valuable id suggest and n9 with its optics is a whole another ball game again.... and with its contrast gains...

optics not to discounted i think and why jvc like z1 is as great as what is ...
 

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Do NOT use it for color calibration. It will most likely make things worse.
Sorry Dave, just to be clear, the link is to an xrite i1 display pro plus...I really messed up my wording making it sound like I was going to use the Spyder X for color calibration which I will not use...
 
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Do NOT use it for color calibration. It will most likely make things worse.
Sorry Dave, just to be clear, the link is to an xrite i1 display pro plus...I really messed up my wording making it sound like I was going to use the Spyder X for color calibration which I will not use...
Google jvc autocal v12. There is a very good faq for JVC autocal v12 on another website.

Read the jvc manual . The meter you linked to is not supported by autocal so not it will not work.


I recently used an efi es-2000 with good results for color calibration. The Xrite version is the iPro 2. You need this type of meter to do color right.

Have fun!
 
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