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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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No mine is in service getting a part replacement. I bought an Epson on the cheap to tie me over. Not sure where you got your Information from
I'm not sure where I'm getting it from either, lol. Maybe @woofer mentioned it in another thread. I thought you sent your proejctor in and they decided it was "fine" so they're sending it back as is and you bought an epson and decided it was good enough in the meantime and were returning the JVC. Glad that's not the case.
 

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I don't think anything substantially better is coming in the next year or more. The problem is your room though. There's no point getting a high end projector if you cant even light contol your room. If that's the situation, I'd stick with the DLPs - although right now only JVC and Sony provide true 4K. For games at 4K there's a huge sharpness advantage to true 4K over something like an Epson pixel shifting. Some of the 4k DLPs sport a high enough resolution to be very sharp for 4K games also.

Hi. Thanks for that information. At night, my room is black. I do the majority of my gaming and movie watching at night, though it's not uncommon to do some gaming in day time. I have a Sony 260ES, which with the exception of the colour banding, has been really good. I don't have any issues with the picture.



In NZ the JVC is around $7600 which is pretty up there in my budget, if you are saying I am not going to significantly benefit from a projector like the JVC because of my uncontrolled lighting, is there anything else native 4K suitable for my requirements, that won't have colour banding, that would be cheaper or better suited for me?



Thanks!
 

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I am viewing the QBF pattern through my PC on my RS3000. The sharpness looks on par with what I have seen others here post. However the 1x1 checkerboard grid has a red tint to it. It even has this when I defocus the image completely. Is this normal? If not, any thoughts on what could cause it? I have not calibrated the projector. The normal image looks fantastic but I'm still curious about this.
Have you tried disabling 8K e-shift?
 

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I'm not sure where I'm getting it from either, lol. Maybe @woofer mentioned it in another thread. I thought you sent your proejctor in and they decided it was "fine" so they're sending it back as is and you bought an epson and decided it was good enough in the meantime and were returning the JVC. Glad that's not the case.
No I mentioned Epson Is quite impressive for its price. There just replacing a part so hopefully I should receive my JVC back soon.
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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Hi. Thanks for that information. At night, my room is black. I do the majority of my gaming and movie watching at night, though it's not uncommon to do some gaming in day time. I have a Sony 260ES, which with the exception of the colour banding, has been really good. I don't have any issues with the picture.



In NZ the JVC is around $7600 which is pretty up there in my budget, if you are saying I am not going to significantly benefit from a projector like the JVC because of my uncontrolled lighting, is there anything else native 4K suitable for my requirements, that won't have colour banding, that would be cheaper or better suited for me?



Thanks!
Ok if you can get your room totally black at night, then I think the JVC is the way to go. You'll fully benefit from its enhanced contrast as long as you can fully kill the lights. I use my projector 33% games, 33% tv, 32% desktop and music, 1% movies. JVC is great for 4K gaming.
 

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Ok if you can get your room totally black at night, then I think the JVC is the way to go. You'll fully benefit from its enhanced contrast as long as you can fully kill the lights. I use my projector 33% games, 33% tv, 32% desktop and music, 1% movies. JVC is great for 4K gaming.

It’s just unfortunate it will not support all the gaming goodies that hdmi 2.1 offers for the next gen consoles coming out the end of the year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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... And rs232 control which is simpler to implement (and probably more reliable)
RS232 is neither easier to implement nor more reliable when compared to IP control. RS232 is slower and it's a bit more complicated to implement due to requiring admin privileges on Windows to access the com ports. IP control is pretty much superior to RS232 in every way. RS232 is to IP control what fax is to email. Welcome to 2020.
 

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RS232 is neither easier to implement nor more reliable when compared to IP control. RS232 is slower and it's a bit more complicated to implement due to requiring admin privileges on Windows to access the com ports. IP control is pretty much superior to RS232 in every way. RS232 is to IP control what fax is to email. Welcome to 2020.

Not sure about windows.. was referring to automation control systems (crestron , control 4) - isn’t rs232 still preferred and more supported in those systems ?
 

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Not sure about windows.. was referring to automation control systems (crestron , control 4) - isn’t rs232 still preferred and more supported in those systems ?
As a Control4 user, yes RS232 is a perfectly legitimate choice, and I've found it to be perfectly reliable. I use it to control my Marantz SR7010, and I haven't had any trouble at all with it.

As for RS232 vs IP vs IR control, I don't know if one is universally preferred over the other per se - I think it would depend on the particular device you're controlling, and the quality of the Driver that is used for control.
 

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Hi Everyone-

Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw

I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.

when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.

I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.

There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?

Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?

Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:

SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2
HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium

I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?

Thanks in advance.
 

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To be honest, the only dealer near me with one on demo doesn't really know that much about them (in detail per se). There are millions of menu options but yeah, they didn't even know about the tone mapping (which I still don't understand).



I guess, if I am honest, I am right up there near the top of my budget, so if I make the jump, I really want to feel like Colour Banding is definitely not going to be an issue, and that a cheaper model wouldn't suit me almost as well for what I am doing, or that if I wait 3-6 months something substantially better might be along soon. This would be a 3-5 year purchase for me at that price.


I did take a look online at the Optoma gaming ones which are 240hz @ 1080P, though I'd be SUPER happy with 120hz at 4K.



When do companies release their new models, any idea what's in the next gen line up for likely features?


Sorry, lots of questions.
Companies do not talk about what they are going to release. They do not want their competition to know. But since JVC just brought out a whole new line, I do not expect much to change with their offerings, especially with the virus situation. I think that situation is going to affect all AV manufacturers to some extent. As for color banding, that will not be an issue on any of the JVC. Can be an issue on older, Sony projectors. If you are keeping for 3-5 years, the JVC with dynamic tone mapping is the only projector that I would consider. If only short term, then a cheaper projector, like the Epson 5050.
 

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Hi Everyone-



Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw



I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.



when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.



I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.



There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?



Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?



Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:



SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2

HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium



I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?



Thanks in advance.
Keystone should really never be used. Only if you have no other options. Most walls are not flat . Not noticeable until you try to align a projector with a screen. Start over . First things to do are to take a level to your projector and projector screen and ensure they are level horizontally with Earth. Then watch this video.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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Not sure about windows.. was referring to automation control systems (crestron , control 4) - isn’t rs232 still preferred and more supported in those systems ?
Every new device comes with IP control. Serial ports are a thing of the past. I think control 4 supports all this stuff so it shouldn't matter as far as that's concerned.
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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8,444 Posts
Hi Everyone-

Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw

I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.

when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.

I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.

There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?

Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?

Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:

SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2
HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium

I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?

Thanks in advance.
Oh yea you made a pretty big mistake using keystone and moving the projector onto the screen. Go turn your keystone off - thats the first step. That is a purely digital change and uses up your resolution to make the image square. Then use the shift and zoom to get the image onto your screen. The way you do it is you build trapezoids and then point to the smaller side. So you use shift to get the image onto the screen, use zoom to zoom it out so you can square it (make it a little smaller than the screen for ease). Then look at the image. If it's a perfect rectangle, you're good to go just shift it down. If it's not a perfect rectangle, then rotate the projector clockwise or counter clockwise until you have a perfect trapezoid. Point the projector psychically towards the small side, use shift to get the image back centered, and evaluate again. Keep repeating until you got a perfect rectangle then zoom back to fill the screen.
 

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Oh yea you made a pretty big mistake using keystone and moving the projector onto the screen. Go turn your keystone off - thats the first step. That is a purely digital change and uses up your resolution to make the image square. Then use the shift and zoom to get the image onto your screen. The way you do it is you build trapezoids and then point to the smaller side. So you use shift to get the image onto the screen, use zoom to zoom it out so you can square it (make it a little smaller than the screen for ease). Then look at the image. If it's a perfect rectangle, you're good to go just shift it down. If it's not a perfect rectangle, then rotate the projector clockwise or counter clockwise until you have a perfect trapezoid. Point the projector psychically towards the small side, use shift to get the image back centered, and evaluate again. Keep repeating until you got a perfect rectangle then zoom back to fill the screen.
Oh, i figure moving the mount would be better to get the lens dead center, but that makes sense bc my projector is sloped downwards. Will use the lens shift feature when i get home.
 

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Oh yea you made a pretty big mistake using keystone and moving the projector onto the screen. Go turn your keystone off - thats the first step. That is a purely digital change and uses up your resolution to make the image square. Then use the shift and zoom to get the image onto your screen. The way you do it is you build trapezoids and then point to the smaller side. So you use shift to get the image onto the screen, use zoom to zoom it out so you can square it (make it a little smaller than the screen for ease). Then look at the image. If it's a perfect rectangle, you're good to go just shift it down. If it's not a perfect rectangle, then rotate the projector clockwise or counter clockwise until you have a perfect trapezoid. Point the projector psychically towards the small side, use shift to get the image back centered, and evaluate again. Keep repeating until you got a perfect rectangle then zoom back to fill the screen.

As far as aspect mode mode to use, would you use auto, zoom, or native?

Does the HDR settings have to be adjusted when the hdr settings are on screen?


At 17 feet from screen in the back of the room, front or ceiling mount (f) is the correct choice, right?
 
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