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This past weekend I performed a calibration using autocal and my spyderX and i1pro. Everything appeared to go smoothly and is looking good again on my aged (3000hr) bulb. The problem is the projector no longer automatically switches picture mode when the signal changes from SDR to HDR or visa versa. This is anoying but not something that effects the picture quality but I still want it fixed. Do I need to do a factory reset? I have used autocal once previously and didn't have this issue. Anyone else have this issue or know how to correct it?

Thanks
 

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Quick thoughts, I recall someone said a while back, if you change from the default SDR (i.e. Natural to Cinema) it may not acknowledge a HDR signal change. You may need to play a 4K media source, switch Picture mode to DTM (Frame to Frame/Scene to Scene), maybe that would help. Also check your projector HDR settings to ensure nothing has changed.

Before, I factory reset, I would unplug it first for ~10min to see if that helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke
 
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I typically use natural for SDR and DTM for HDR. I have a few other custom picture modes but it used to automatically switch between natural and DTM going from SDR to HDR signal. I will try unplugging tonight. Thanks
 

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I fired up my NX7 with DCR-C for the first time in over a month this weekend. I am awed every time I get to sit down and use it. Put on almost 40 hours over the last 4 days.

The comments above about lens shift and Paladin lens.

Lens shift is never perfect. I have never had one go back exactly to where it was before, shift, focus or zoom. It’s a nice to have for a once in a while aspect ratio change. It’s helpful but still a pain if you are switching AR every time you fire it up. It requires a bit of fine tuning after you get it close with memory. It’s even more prevalent if you have a zero edge style screen. Just accept that.

I used a Paladin lens on my past 3 JVC projectors. Once you have a lens you won’t want to be without. The lens never moves. The AR changes are instant and perfect every time. If you want a scope screen, you want a lens!

Earlier this summer I added the new DCR-C lens and replaced my Paladin. I had no complaints about the Paladin, but the advantages of the new compact DCR is that it allows you to get the Panamorph IN the NX5/7 opening and place the Panamorph as close as possible to the JVC lens. This was not possible with the regular Paladin.

Beyond that the DCR-C allows you to use Anamorphic Mode C & D. These modes use the full horizontal resolution of the projector improving the brightness on the screen.

The regular Paladin uses the 3840 horizontal pixels by JVC modes A & B.

Both lenses are leaps and bounds above zooming. Not only in the convenience, but the improvement of having 8.7 million pixels on the screen with DCR / DCR-C or 8.3 million pixels with the Paladin vs having 6.1 million pixels with the zoom method is very apparent from the first time you sit down to enjoy your new addition.

For the NX5 and 7 the DCR-C is like the rum to the coke. Who doesn’t enjoy a cold coke? But add some rum and you have a match made in heaven!

The Panamorph lens has been my favorite addition to my system out of every piece of gear.
 

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This past weekend I performed a calibration using autocal and my spyderX and i1pro. Everything appeared to go smoothly and is looking good again on my aged (3000hr) bulb. The problem is the projector no longer automatically switches picture mode when the signal changes from SDR to HDR or visa versa. This is anoying but not something that effects the picture quality but I still want it fixed. Do I need to do a factory reset? I have used autocal once previously and didn't have this issue. Anyone else have this issue or know how to correct it?

Thanks
The projector has a user-selectable default Picture Mode for HDR (you can select from HDR10, Frame Adapt HDR, or a User mode). However, it has no default Pictured Mode for SDR and just goes back to the "previous mode".
If you first place the projector in Natural mode and play an SDR disc, and then play an HDR disc, it should switch automatically to the default HDR mode, and back to Natural for SDR. The problem occurs if you manually switch modes when playing and HDR disc; that will confuse the projector and it will no longer switch back to Natural. IMHO it's a bug, although some others disagree.
 

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I am positive this has happened on accident. But now how do I retrain it to behave properly?
 

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The projector has a user-selectable default Picture Mode for HDR (you can select from HDR10, Frame Adapt HDR, or a User mode). However, it has no default Pictured Mode for SDR and just goes back to the "previous mode".
If you first place the projector in Natural mode and play an SDR disc, and then play an HDR disc, it should switch automatically to the default HDR mode, and back to Natural for SDR. The problem occurs if you manually switch modes when playing and HDR disc; that will confuse the projector and it will no longer switch back to Natural. IMHO it's a bug, although some others disagree.
I thought that was you DC, but I wasn't sure :).

Peace and blessings,

Azeke
 

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I am positive this has happened on accident. But now how do I retrain it to behave properly?
Put in an SDR disc or SDR streaming and change the setting to natural, BT709 and what ever else you want used for SDR. Then put in an HDR source and confirm it changes over to your HDR settings.
 

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I am positive this has happened on accident. But now how do I retrain it to behave properly?
  1. Check your preferences to confirm the default HDR mode is what you want it to be
  2. Play an SDR disc
  3. Select Natural picture mode, if not already in that mode
  4. Play a UHD disc and check that the projector automatically switches to the default HDR mode
If it is not be behaving as above, please describe what exactly is happening.
 

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I agree that laser does have advantages beyond cost. The problem is that at the present time the price of the laser with the more stable light source and wider gamut is out of reach for many. I would expect in a year or two the cost will come down. With the upgraded firmware just announced it will JVC more time to hopefully get the cost of the laser light source down to a reasonable price point. The competition could also help do this. Many of us remember what the cost of a LED light bulb was a few years ago. Hopefully costs will also come down for laser light sources sooner than later.
Yeah, but why?

With the XPR DLPs that use laser, you see only about a $1K to $2k hike over the lamp-based version. The laser doesn't add that much cost there. If it can be done there at that premium, why are the Sony and JVC lasers adding such a high premium here?

Now, perhaps some will retort, "well that's because those are DLP; this is Lcos...and it's three chips, reflective panels, better contrast, etc." Heck with an outstanding lens and full features, Epson did it over five years ago with their laser LCos/LCoq and charged only c. $6K (LS9600) and c. $8k for the UHD compatible (LS10000) LCos projectors.
 

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Yeah, but why?

With the XPR DLPs that use laser, you see only about a $1K to $2k hike over the lamp-based version. The laser doesn't add that much cost there. If it can be done there at that premium, why are the Sony and JVC lasers adding such a high premium here?

Now, perhaps some will retort, "well that's because those are DLP; this is Lcos...and it's three chips, reflective panels, better contrast, etc." Heck with an outstanding lens and full features, Epson did it over five years ago with their laser LCos/LCoq and charged only c. $6K (LS9600) and c. $8k for the UHD compatible (LS10000) LCos projectors.
We are not quite talking the same type of laser system. The RS4500 has three sets of banks of laser. It is built such, that if some fail, the projector still has the ability to provide full light output. Not saying that explains all of the difference. just saying it is not apples to apples.
 

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Past page or 2 there was some discussion of electrical isolation via hdmi with what im assuming are hybrid cables? There is still an electrical connection even if you arent sending 5v power through the cable, ground, edid, etc. are all copper, and the only fiber in the cable is the data lines. You would need to use mm om3 fiber hdbaset hdmi extenders to provide complete galvanic isolation between components.
 

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I am thinking about updating my Sony projector and installing a 2.4:1 aspect ratio screen. If I am using zoom for widescreen movie files, do I need to make any other hardware changes to my HTPC? I am assuming I can just use it in 16:9 aspect ratio until I start playing the movie.

It also sounds like I want start saving up for an anamorphic lens. Is that just a drop in replacement I can add later without having to move the projector?
 

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I am thinking about updating my Sony projector and installing a 2.4:1 aspect ratio screen. If I am using zoom for widescreen movie files, do I need to make any other hardware changes to my HTPC? I am assuming I can just use it in 16:9 aspect ratio until I start playing the movie.

It also sounds like I want start saving up for an anamorphic lens. Is that just a drop in replacement I can add later without having to move the projector?
Yes you would want to save for a DCR lens, I believe you can get a combo deal, if you're interested. It was one of the best HT investments I've ever made.

Also, I installed the DCR lens w/o taking down the NX7, which I have Chief ceiling mounted.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke
 

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We are not quite talking the same type of laser system. The RS4500 has three sets of banks of laser. It is built such, that if some fail, the projector still has the ability to provide full light output. Not saying that explains all of the difference. just saying it is not apples to apples.
Well....okay, but they're both fruit!
 

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It also sounds like I want start saving up for an anamorphic lens. Is that just a drop in replacement I can add later without having to move the projector?
An anamorphic lens will provide a boost in light output, since you're using all of the projector's pixels on the active image and not wasting any on letterbox bars, but it is not strictly necessary to do Constant Image Height on a 2.40:1 screen. Most people start by simply using the projector's optical zoom and letting letterbox bars spill off the screen onto the wall.

A Paladin lens is a very expensive add-on. I'd suggest starting with Zoom Method and then evaluate whether you are lacking for brightness at your screen size. If not, just enjoy what you have and evaluate again later after you've put some hours on the lamp. (Remember, increasing brightness will also raise black levels.)

Also, while JVC's current projectors have a scaling mode to pillarbox 16:9 content into the center of a scope screen when using a lens, in-between aspect ratios such as 2.00:1 and 2.20:1 are problematic. You'll have to decide whether to crop those to scope or windowbox them in the center of the screen with bars on all sides. Those ratios are extremely popular these days with content on streaming services such as Netflix and Amazon.
 

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It also sounds like I want start saving up for an anamorphic lens. Is that just a drop in replacement I can add later without having to move the projector?
You'll need a throw distance of 1.4x screen width, or more, to be able to use the DCR Lens. So if you're considering this down the road, you'll want to mount it accordingly now.
Also, while JVC's current projectors have a scaling mode to pillarbox 16:9 content into the center of a scope screen when using a lens, in-between aspect ratios such as 2.00:1 and 2.20:1 are problematic. You'll have to decide whether to crop those to scope or windowbox them in the center of the screen with bars on all sides. Those ratios are extremely popular these days with content on streaming services such as Netflix and Amazon.
You are spot on here, and something I'd like to fix. As I understand it, there are at least 3 additional options:
  1. If your throw distance allows you to zoom the projector lens for a larger image, then you can use whatever Installation Modes you'd need to fill the screen vertically for those 'in-between' aspect ratios.
  2. A Lumagen or MadVR Envy will auto-detect the black bars for those aspect ratios, and scale the image accordingly. If I'm understanding it correctly, it's like having any number of customizable Anamorphic Modes beyond JVC's 2 modes.
  3. Remove the DCR lens from the light path (CineSlide type approach, or just manual removal), and use Installation Modes for these aspect ratios.
I don't have the Throw Distance to Zoom Wider, and am actively looking at Processor options to handle this.
 

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If your throw distance allows you to zoom the projector lens for a larger image, then you can use whatever Installation Modes you'd need to fill the screen vertically for those 'in-between' aspect ratios.
Yes, but when the lens is in place, you need to scale to 16:9 pillarbox first to correct the image geometry. This is effectively the worst of both options. You lose resolution when you scale and you lose brightness when you zoom up.

A Lumagen or MadVR Envy will auto-detect the black bars for those aspect ratios, and scale the image accordingly. If I'm understanding it correctly, it's like having any number of customizable Anamorphic Modes beyond JVC's 2 modes.
Correct, but pricey.

Remove the DCR lens from the light path (CineSlide type approach, or just manual removal), and use Installation Modes for these aspect ratios.
Panamorph's current philosophy is that the lens should remain in place at all times. They don't sell slide mounts anymore. Also, because the JVC's projector lens is recessed, you'll want to mount the anamorphic lens as close to it as possible. In order to remove the a-lens, you'll not only need a side-to-slide slide, but something that allows the lens to swing upwards and out of the recess first. Probably a custom job.
 

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NX9 iris scare: The projector hadn't been on since the night before, and there was some power line work on the street that was about to get started. As a precaution, I decided to turn off the APC conditioner (NX9 is plugged into it) and unplug the conditioner from the wall until the guys on the street were done. They never shut the power off and all was well.

Hours later I get ready to watch Umbrella Academy with my normal setting of Frame Adapt Medium, Low Lamp, Iris 0, but the image was very dim. First thing I did was look at the iris setting, which was still at 0. Of course, to get from the Apple TV 4K menu to Netflix, to playing the episode, there is a blackout with lots of iris shifting (even with frame rate and dynamic range on).

I decided to move it all the way to -15, which didn't appear to affect the image, but as I moved it back open towards 0, the step-by-step brightness increase was immediately noticeable. All seemed normal for the rest of the show on Auto 2 and for a one-hour dinner break and then another episode. I will report back after tonight's viewing.
 

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Yes, but when the lens is in place, you need to scale to 16:9 pillarbox first to correct the image geometry. This is effectively the worst of both options. You lose resolution when you scale and you lose brightness when you zoom up.
Good point to clarify this option. Not an ideal solution at all.

Correct, but pricey.
Pretty much par for the course with this crazy hobby! :p

Panamorph's current philosophy is that the lens should remain in place at all times. They don't sell slide mounts anymore. Also, because the JVC's projector lens is recessed, you'll want to mount the anamorphic lens as close to it as possible. In order to remove the a-lens, you'll not only need a side-to-slide slide, but something that allows the lens to swing upwards and out of the recess first. Probably a custom job.
I had looked into CineSlide doing one - this would definitely be a custom job, and the DCR would need to be sent to them first for some modifications for this to work. I decided it was not worth pursuing.
 
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