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Leaving the lens in place for 16:9 content is a non issue IMO. I don’t watch my content and say... gee. That’s too blurry or dim.

Also if you are going to move the Panamorph out of the way, it’s not that simple. You will ALSO need to shift/zoom/focus to get your 16:9 in the middle of your screen. So there your are, back to lens memory on top of moving a lens.

When you buy a scope screen you are choosing that 2.40 is more important to you than 16:9.

As far as 1.85, 2.0 or 2.2 aspect ratio you don’t have to do anything either if you don’t want. You can leave it as is, and you will have black bars on both sides and top/bottom.

Or you can use anamorphic mode and crop some of it. This is how I usually watch my movies. I want the immersion of my 2.40 screen. I watched Gemini Man 4K 60FPS in anamorphic mode. This allowed me to watch all 8.7 million pixels on my screen. Some of the image was cropped, but I was filling the screen. Full brightness, maximum resolution.

Same goes for any of the IMAX changing movies. Dunkirk and Aquaman come to mind. For me, 2.40 all the way. Lens in place, full brightness, full resolution.

To me, it’s more important than when I game on my PS4 or watch any 16:9 content. My movies are more important than my games or re-runs for Friends so I want the best for the movies.

JVC and Panamorph has made this easy. No lens sleds, no lens memory to mess with.
 

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I'm looking into buying a JVC projector since I've read they have the best contrast

I've also read one of the pros of the NX5 (still debating between that one and the X790/RS540) is the automatic tone mapping, but is that only applicable to physical media?

I was wondering if that would also work for HDR in services like Netflix, HBO Max, Amazon Prime, Hulu, and Disney+

My apologies if this has been answered before.
 

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Yes, but when the lens is in place, you need to scale to 16:9 pillarbox first to correct the image geometry. This is effectively the worst of both options. You lose resolution when you scale and you lose brightness when you zoom up.



Correct, but pricey.



Panamorph's current philosophy is that the lens should remain in place at all times. They don't sell slide mounts anymore. Also, because the JVC's projector lens is recessed, you'll want to mount the anamorphic lens as close to it as possible. In order to remove the a-lens, you'll not only need a side-to-slide slide, but something that allows the lens to swing upwards and out of the recess first. Probably a custom job.
Maybe, if you are at 1.4 throw ratio, but if you are 1.5 or more, you can just use a regular slide. Not that I recommend this, because you would be using lens memory and a DCR lens. Loss of accuracy and time when switching.
 

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I'm looking into buying a JVC projector since I've read they have the best contrast

I've also read one of the pros of the NX5 (still debating between that one and the X790/RS540) is the automatic tone mapping, but is that only applicable to physical media?

I was wondering if that would also work for HDR in services like Netflix, HBO Max, Amazon Prime, Hulu, and Disney+

My apologies if this has been answered before.
DTM works with all services...it's done within the projector, so you're good to go.
 

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Maybe, if you are at 1.4 throw ratio, but if you are 1.5 or more, you can just use a regular slide. Not that I recommend this, because you would be using lens memory and a DCR lens. Loss of accuracy and time when switching.
I lose more time when my wife has to go pee than removing the lens !
 

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I lose more time when my wife has to go pee than removing the lens !
Lol I get that problem with my kids. At the cinemas no issue but at home three times I’m pausing the movie. I’m usually screaming “ cmon guys wasting globe time “
 

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I lose more time when my wife has to go pee than removing the lens !
3027468
Yeah, but that is because you use the wrong seats in your theater. You need a set of these.
 

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Yeah, but that is because you use the wrong seats in your theater. You need a set of these.
Those are good for horror movies that scare the crap out of you ( I couldn’t resist )!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Put in an SDR disc or SDR streaming and change the setting to natural, BT709 and what ever else you want used for SDR. Then put in an HDR source and confirm it changes over to your HDR settings.
I tried this last night and it still does not work. I first turned the projectors on with my roku as the source in SDR. I made sure to select the natural setting. I then switched over to my PS4 and fired up a game that outputs in HDR which used to trigger the switch automatically and the projector remained on natural. I manually changed to the frame adapt HDR mode. When I switch back to the roku as the source which is SDR again it remains in the frame adapt HDR mode and I manually set it back to natural. I can repeat this over and over again. I have used the projector for 18mo with no issue until performing the autocal this past weekend so I know its related to that and has introduced some sort of BUG.
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | 6.1.4: B&W 802D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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I am thinking about updating my Sony projector and installing a 2.4:1 aspect ratio screen. If I am using zoom for widescreen movie files, do I need to make any other hardware changes to my HTPC? I am assuming I can just use it in 16:9 aspect ratio until I start playing the movie.

It also sounds like I want start saving up for an anamorphic lens. Is that just a drop in replacement I can add later without having to move the projector?
You wont need any physical changes to your HTPC for this. Do you already run madvr?
 

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I tried this last night and it still does not work. I first turned the projectors on with my roku as the source in SDR. I made sure to select the natural setting. I then switched over to my PS4 and fired up a game that outputs in HDR which used to trigger the switch automatically and the projector remained on natural. I manually changed to the frame adapt HDR mode. When I switch back to the roku as the source which is SDR again it remains in the frame adapt HDR mode and I manually set it back to natural. I can repeat this over and over again. I have used the projector for 18mo with no issue until performing the autocal this past weekend so I know its related to that and has introduced some sort of BUG.
Your projector would be the first one since JVC started making projectors that did HDR that would not auto change over, so I don't believe that is the problem. When you go to your PS4 to play 4K HDR, press the info button and show a pic of the menu. A lot of stuff that is streamed is 4k and not HDR. If it is only 4K, then it is SDR. So when you change your settings, you are actually changing SDR settings and that is why it is not working for you.
 

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I tried this last night and it still does not work. I first turned the projectors on with my roku as the source in SDR. I made sure to select the natural setting. I then switched over to my PS4 and fired up a game that outputs in HDR which used to trigger the switch automatically and the projector remained on natural.
What is your setting for HDR10 Auto Select?
3027520
 

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Guys,

For a rs2000 at 1.38x zoom ratio matched with a 92” screen, a slate 0.8 is enough or is better to go with 1.2 version?
My room will have normal ambient light during the day but i am more worried about overall ALR capability and better contrast and black levels during night sessions....

many thanks !
 

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Guys,

For a rs2000 at 1.38x zoom ratio matched with a 92” screen, a slate 0.8 is enough or is better to go with 1.2 version?
My room will have normal ambient light during the day but i am more worried about overall ALR capability and better contrast and black levels during night sessions....

many thanks !
I would look at FireHawk and HALR. Both will provide a better image, especially at night time, particularly Stewart HALR.
 

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Guys,

For a rs2000 at 1.38x zoom ratio matched with a 92” screen, a slate 0.8 is enough or is better to go with 1.2 version?
My room will have normal ambient light during the day but i am more worried about overall ALR capability and better contrast and black levels during night sessions....

many thanks !
Couple of problems here that I did not catch when I first replied. One, you are not going to be able to fill a 16:9 screen with only 1.38 throw. Problem number two, Slate, FireHawk, HALR and all the other ALR screens need a longer throw, to not hotspot.
 

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Am I not doing this right?

View attachment 3027633
If the screen size you want is 234cm and you have selected the right projector, then yes. It is telling you the minimum throw is 2.91 meters. But ALR screens require a longer throw than the projector minimum.
 

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Right, my real throw will be 4 meters, somewhere in the middle of the minimum-2.91 and the maximum-5.94.
Is this good for ALR?
For an ALR screen you would be looking at around 104" diagonal 16:9 to 120" diagonal 16:9. Depends on throw requirements of the ALR screen.
 
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