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Just heard back. David took photos off his OLED screen using an iPhone. I suspect that the phone is skewing colors to optimize photos for its screen, which may be a little undersaturated. We're having a discussion now about why what I see on this end is not what he sees on his end.

As I recall, when we worked together, I helped him out a couple times with review images and all the photos he sent me were similarly oversaturated.

Anyway, point being that you should take those images in the review with a grain of salt. They're intended only to break up the text and are not necessarily representative of what the disc looks like. I trust that his TV is calibrated and that what he describes in the text is accurate.
Awesome work man!! Amaaaaazing how you just happened to know him...small word! Yeah, I read his reviews meticulously before I buy a disc...I always thought the oversaturated shots were what the disc looked like...He made want to add some sort of disclaimer on the screen shots or perhaps he has and I missed it...

THIS BOARD CONTINUES TO AMAZE ME IN A GOOD WAY 👍🏽
 
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Yes, this is how the DI looks and works on the NX5/7. It doesn't really happen on the NX9 though , probably something to do with the completely different lens and such.
I have read that several times that the Auto aperture on the nx9 does not produce such effects. But some People also write that it occurs with the nx9. I don't know what is right now.
My projector is now 1 year old, has had 2 updates and the auto Aperture has never been improved.
Nö idea why jvc does not fix it.
 

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I have read that several times that the Auto aperture on the nx9 does not produce such effects. But some People also write that it occurs with the nx9. I don't know what is right now.
My projector is now 1 year old, has had 2 updates and the auto Aperture has never been improved.
Nö idea why jvc does not fix it.
The NX9 has a little color shift to yellow, but its a lot less than the NX5/7. The NX9 has no clipping issues though.

I have personally seen and tested 3 NX5, 2 NX7 and 2 NX9.

I doubt it's really fixable. I have seen the clipping issue as far back as the RS600 even. It seems like a deliberate choice in order to attempt to enhance the percieved contrast as the iris closes. It boosts the brightness by altering the gamma, but if something is near white, it has nowhere to go but to pure white and starts clipping.
 

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Wow. That is bad.
So Sony don't have a monopoly on issues then! ;)
A lot of us use the Auto iris, myself included, and really don't run into anything objectionable. Keep in mind this phenomenon affected the previous e-shift models (out for years), we just didn't notice.

I haven't seen enough NX models to say if there is sample to sample variance. However the two other owners local use the Auto iris with no complaint (I've watched content on both). You can certainly disable it and still have 3 times the native contrast of the bulb based Sony competitors.
 

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Hey owners:

Decided on an NX7. Does it make any sense at all to get a 17:9 ratio screen to exactly match the panel if I didn't want to use the zoom function to maximize content height & width? My wall is height-limited for a 16:9 screen but a 17:9 screen for my max width would work. Can the NX7 scale 4K/3840 content to 4K/4096 on its own? I'm fine with having both HDTV and scope movies be letterboxed.
With the installation modes you could also consider a 2.35:1 screen. Otherwise a 17:9 screen certainly isn't a bad idea.
 

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I have an NX7 with the Panamorph DCR lens. When I an in anamorphic C and D modes with an image from JRiver on my PC, I don’t see any change in image size when I change the Aspect setting. I normally leave it in Auto but I thought switching to Zoom would show a stretched image when the source is a 16x9 Bluray.
 

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I have an NX7 with the Panamorph DCR lens. When I an in anamorphic C and D modes with an image from JRiver on my PC, I don’t see any change in image size when I change the Aspect setting. I normally leave it in Auto but I thought switching to Zoom would show a stretched image when the source is a 16x9 Bluray.
Is the PC outputting 4096 wide or 3840? I'm not sure the aspect are effective at 4096.
 

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I have an NX7 with the Panamorph DCR lens. When I an in anamorphic C and D modes with an image from JRiver on my PC, I don’t see any change in image size when I change the Aspect setting. I normally leave it in Auto but I thought switching to Zoom would show a stretched image when the source is a 16x9 Bluray.
A DCR owner can probably verify this, but I believe the anamorphic modes meant to work with it automatically engage the full panel and override the zoom/auto funciton.
 

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Just heard back. David took photos off his OLED screen using an iPhone. I suspect that the phone is skewing colors to optimize photos for its screen, which may be a little undersaturated. We're having a discussion now about why what I see on this end is not what he sees on his end.

As I recall, when we worked together, I helped him out a couple times with review images and all the photos he sent me were similarly oversaturated.

Anyway, point being that you should take those images in the review with a grain of salt. They're intended only to break up the text and are not necessarily representative of what the disc looks like. I trust that his TV is calibrated and that what he describes in the text is accurate.
My Box set arrived today...just watching Vertigo...drop dead gorgeous restoration...facials are no where close to sunburnt as the pics indicate...definitely pinkish/slightly sunburnt in some shots (perhaps taking on the shadows of a red room as an example) but then natural looking in other shots...just gorgeous...
 
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A DCR owner can probably verify this, but I believe the anamorphic modes meant to work with it automatically engage the full panel and override the zoom/auto funciton.
You should not use the zoom mode if using a DCR. That should be set to AUTO. The Anamorphic C/D modes will set the zoom appropriately.
 

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Hey - I am getting ready to mount a RS1000 in my 21' wide x 27' deep x 9' high dedicated HT. With the JVC's lens, I have a lot of leeway as to where I mount it. Using a 115" wide 16x9 screen (Seymour Glacier White PS 1.3 gain), it looks like I can mount it 13'9" ... all the way back to 27' 11". I understand that the image will be brighter if I mount it towards the front end of the allowable range.

I am curious to hear from those who already have this projector about the fan noise and if the noise tends to come from the front or the rear of the projector. I am very sensitive to fan noise and am wondering if I would be better off to;

1) Mount the projector at the front end of the range (just in front of my 15' back seating) which would tend to be brighter and may allow me to run in low lamp mode.

2) Mount the projector towards the rear end of the range (7-8 feet behind the seating area) and run in high mode if needed.

Any thoughts or am I overthinking this?
 

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Hey - I am getting ready to mount a RS1000 in my 21' wide x 27' deep x 9' high dedicated HT. With the JVC's lens, I have a lot of leeway as to where I mount it. Using a 115" wide 16x9 screen (Seymour Glacier White PS 1.3 gain), it looks like I can mount it 13'9" ... all the way back to 27' 11". I understand that the image will be brighter if I mount it towards the front end of the allowable range.

I am curious to hear from those who already have this projector about the fan noise and if the noise tends to come from the front or the rear of the projector. I am very sensitive to fan noise and am wondering if I would be better off to;

1) Mount the projector at the front end of the range (just in front of my 15' back seating) which would tend to be brighter and may allow me to run in low lamp mode.

2) Mount the projector towards the rear end of the range (7-8 feet behind the seating area) and run in high mode if needed.

Any thoughts or am I overthinking this?
In most rooms mounting the projector behind the seating cuts down on the fan noise, so I'd want to weigh that vs. the brightness gain. If you're back row isn't used often it may be acceptable, if it is I'd lean towards mounting it further back.
 

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Just found out, Theater Optimizer will automatically update the lamp usage hours every 100 hours. Also Theater Optimizer will account for anamorphic modes. The beta firmware does not do this but the final version will. :)

This firmware offering keeps getting better and better.
 

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Hey - I am getting ready to mount a RS1000 in my 21' wide x 27' deep x 9' high dedicated HT. With the JVC's lens, I have a lot of leeway as to where I mount it. Using a 115" wide 16x9 screen (Seymour Glacier White PS 1.3 gain), it looks like I can mount it 13'9" ... all the way back to 27' 11". I understand that the image will be brighter if I mount it towards the front end of the allowable range.

I am curious to hear from those who already have this projector about the fan noise and if the noise tends to come from the front or the rear of the projector. I am very sensitive to fan noise and am wondering if I would be better off to;

1) Mount the projector at the front end of the range (just in front of my 15' back seating) which would tend to be brighter and may allow me to run in low lamp mode.

2) Mount the projector towards the rear end of the range (7-8 feet behind the seating area) and run in high mode if needed.

Any thoughts or am I overthinking this?
Gain on that screen is close to 1.0 gain, not 1.3. I would mount toward the short end of the throw. Around 14/15'. Noise level is not bad, even in high lamp for HDR.
 

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Just found out, Theater Optimizer will automatically update the lamp usage hours every 100 hours. Also Theater Optimizer will account for anamorphic modes. The beta firmware does not do this but the final version will. :)

This firmware offering keeps getting better and better.
Great news Mike :)
 

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Just found out, Theater Optimizer will automatically update the lamp usage hours every 100 hours. Also Theater Optimizer will account for anamorphic modes. The beta firmware does not do this but the final version will. :)

This firmware offering keeps getting better and better.
Very good news! 10 likes? After all it was not a stupid thing to ask for, right? ;)
 

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Just found out, Theater Optimizer will automatically update the lamp usage hours every 100 hours. Also Theater Optimizer will account for anamorphic modes. The beta firmware does not do this but the final version will. :)

This firmware offering keeps getting better and better.
great news Mike ! that great its upping the automation.

any thoughts what happens with lamp swaps ? eg some folk use a lamp for 1000 hours take out and keep as a back up spare and then pop another in ? will the jvc know hours anyways when a lamp is put in ... put back in... ? so when new one is in its 0 and old one puts back in it remembers its 1000 ? just wondering what happens there ? or is lamp swaps really not recommenced going forward ? or matter of turning HT optimiser off if an old lamp is put in since will think its a new one and 0 ? but its really at 1000 hours ?

I also wonder if using a non jvc lamp ie any number of ushio em types that are 25% dimmer ? wonder what do there ... or just matter of upping the setting on the HT optimiser to liking and it will just keep it there as ages ?
 

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Just heard back. David took photos off his OLED screen using an iPhone. I suspect that the phone is skewing colors to optimize photos for its screen, which may be a little undersaturated. We're having a discussion now about why what I see on this end is not what he sees on his end.
good on you Josh and thanks for confirming :)
 

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great news Mike ! that great its upping the automation.

any thoughts what happens with lamp swaps ? eg some folk use a lamp for 1000 hours take out and keep as a back up spare and then pop another in ? will the jvc know hours anyways when a lamp is put in ... put back in... ? so when new one is in its 0 and old one puts back in it remembers its 1000 ? just wondering what happens there ? or is lamp swaps really not recommenced going forward ? or matter of turning HT optimiser off if an old lamp is put in since will think its a new one and 0 ? but its really at 1000 hours ?

I also wonder if using a non jvc lamp ie any number of ushio em types that are 25% dimmer ? wonder what do there ... or just matter of upping the setting on the HT optimiser to liking and it will just keep it there as ages ?
Impossible for the projector to know hours on a used lamp. If you insert a new lamp and reset the hours, then you will be starting from zero again. If using non OEM lamps that are not the same brightness, then I would not use Theater Optimizer. You will have it all screwed up.
 
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