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I'm using a used EFI ES-2000 I got on eBay a weeks or so ago for $300 plus tax and shipping. It's few years old. It worked fine for me.

Just remember to make sure that it comes with the "calibration plate" that has, under a slider, the white self-calibration tile SirMaster referred to. You can download the i1Pro's manual at the X-Rite site to see a picture of its accessories - and grab i1Diagnostics while you're there, since that's what installs the driver Autocal needs to use the device - it worked for my EFI as well.

Don't manually install any software for the Spyder - Windows will do that for you invisibly. If you install the Datacolor software, it will hog the device and not let Autocal use it.

You'll also need to rig up a way to attach it to your tripod, since it doesn't have a socket for that. I got a tripod-mount holder for cellphones for $10. I clipped the EFI in it to front-to-back (i.e. sideways) at its narrowest point and tilted the head of the tripod so it was aimed upwards at the center of the screen.

Both the gamma and color probes have fairly short USB cables, so you might need to use a short female-to-male USB extension cord, so plug into a USB 3.0 jack on your computer, which has more power available to drive devices than older USB 2.0 jacks.
 
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Don't manually install any software for the Spyder - Windows will do that for you invisibly.
That’s true only for the SpyderX. Spyder5 needs the Datacolor driver to be installed manually.
 

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I'm using a used EFI ES-2000 I got on eBay a weeks or so ago for $300 plus tax and shipping. It's few years old. It worked fine for me.

Just remember to make sure that it comes with the "calibration plate" that has, under a slider, the white self-calibration tile SirMaster referred to. You can download the i1Pro's manual at the X-Rite site to see a picture of its accessories - and grab i1Diagnostics while you're there, since that's what installs the driver Autocal needs to use the device - it worked for my EFI as well.

Don't manually install any software for the Spyder - Windows will do that for you invisibly. If you install the Datacolor software, it will hog the device and not let Autocal use it.

You'll also need to rig up a way to attach it to your tripod, since it doesn't have a socket for that. I got a tripod-mount holder for cellphones for $10. I clipped the EFI in it to front-to-back (i.e. sideways) at its narrowest point and tilted the head of the tripod so it was aimed upwards at the center of the screen.

Both the gamma and color probes have fairly short USB cables, so you might need to use a short female-to-male USB extension cord, so plug into a USB 3.0 jack on your computer, which has more power available to drive devices than older USB 2.0 jacks.
I use the same cell phone holder but mounted my ES-2000 sideways (horizontally not vertically)...how did u mount yours?
 

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I use the same cell phone holder but mounted my ES-2000 sideways (horizontally not vertically)...how did u mount yours?
I believe I put one of its shorter edges against the back of the holder and had the sides clamp against its front and back. Not the obvious way to use it, but more stable than clamping onto its edges, which are not parallel but taper and thus have a varying width, so it only would be gripped at one narrow point. By contrast, the front and back of the device are parallel, so inserted sideways it is gripped stably along the whole length of the clamping pieces.
 
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Just remember to make sure that it comes with the "calibration plate" that has, under a slider, the white self-calibration tile SirMaster referred to.
Actually I am referring to this:

"Special Green Filter and LED Performs instrument self-check on every Calibration."

"i1PRO2 has a reference spectrum of the (green) wavelength LED stored in its firmware, during the wavelength calibration the driver computes a wavelength offset in the sensor to wavelength interpolation tables to ensure that the measured spectrum of the green LED matches that of the firmware reference. Too large a shift and it will error out. Zero shift and nothing has moved in the hardware."

"Instrument can automatically self-diagnose and correct for small shifts as well as identify recalibration needs."

"Damaged instruments can be identified for required repair."
 

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Actually I am referring to this:

"Special Green Filter and LED Performs instrument self-check on every Calibration."

"i1PRO2 has a reference spectrum of the (green) wavelength LED stored in its firmware, during the wavelength calibration the driver computes a wavelength offset in the sensor to wavelength interpolation tables to ensure that the measured spectrum of the green LED matches that of the firmware reference. Too large a shift and it will error out. Zero shift and nothing has moved in the hardware."

"Instrument can automatically self-diagnose and correct for small shifts as well as identify recalibration needs."

"Damaged instruments can be identified for required repair."
I may have misunderstood you, but without the calibration plate to put the device onto to read the white tile for a moment at the beginning of a session, the device can't be used at all.
 

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That may be, but without the calibration plate to put the device onto to read the white tile for a moment at the beginning of a session, the device can't be used at all.
Yes of course you need the calibration tile, but that doesn't help account for minor senor drift. A different mechanism does that.
 

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If I'm off topic, please let me know where I should take this.

I did the gamma autocal with the Spyder X last week with no issues. I received a used X-Rite i1Pro2 Rev E today from eBay today. I did the diagnostics and passed. However, when I try to select it in the JVC Autocal, it says can not detect the sensor try again. The white, green, and red lights on the device flash so I don't believe it is a UBS power issue.
 

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If I'm off topic, please let me know where I should take this.

I did the gamma autocal with the Spyder X last week with no issues. I received a used X-Rite i1Pro2 Rev E today from eBay today. I did the diagnostics and passed. However, when I try to select it in the JVC Autocal, it says can not detect the sensor try again. The white, green, and red lights on the device flash so I don't believe it is a UBS power issue.
Try pressing the recessed button on its side (under one of the rubber "grips") while it's sitting on the calibration plate with the plate's slider pulled back to expose the round white calibration tile so it can be read by the sensor's lens.
 
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I received a used X-Rite i1Pro2 Rev E today from eBay today. I did the diagnostics and passed. However, when I try to select it in the JVC Autocal, it says can not detect the sensor try again. The white, green, and red lights on the device flash so I don't believe it is a UBS power issue.
It needs to sit in its cradle facing the exposed white tile, when you select it in autocal.
 

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Try pressing the recessed button on its side (under one of the rubber "grips") while it's sitting on the calibration plate with the plate's slider pulled back to expose the round white calibration tile so it can be read by the sensor's lens.
It passed all of the diagnostic tests. It is not being recognized by the JVC Autocal software. I'm not supposed to have anything attached to it when I have it up on the tripod correct?

1602641519198.png
 

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It passed all of the diagnostic tests. It is not being recognized by the JVC Autocal software. I'm not supposed to have anything attached to it when I have it up on the tripod correct?

View attachment 3046325
When you select it, the meter should not be on the tripod. It should be in its cradle reading the while tile.
 

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Oh Yes! Iris changes only when you change picture mode. Unfortunately I would say... Because this means you have to switch both picture and installation modes at any aspect ratio change. I solved with a Logitech Harmony.
That can't be right? For HDR isn't there only one frame adapt hdr mode that you are using with 16:9 and 2.35:1 installation modes and the installation modes should handle the iris settings etc? Thats what they are for imo.
 

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That can't be right? For HDR isn't there only one frame adapt hdr mode that you are using with 16:9 and 2.35:1 installation modes and the installation modes should handle the iris settings etc? Thats what they are for imo.
I agree, maybe their assumption is that we are always using maximum aperture with HDR to get as much nits as we can (as it is never enough).
It should be set for the specific combination of installation and color mode; one possible approach could be to define the "auto picture mode select" that they are providing with the next 3.5 firmware per installation mode. But we would need much more pic mode slots!
 

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And there’s also a new Auto color mode that allows the projector to automatically determine which mode you should be using based on the colorimetry of the input signal.
Also the JVC news says:
(3) Function which automatically switches to the optimal Color Profile according to the color gamut information of the content.
And just to be very clear, the above is different than this:
(4) Added Auto Pic. Mode Select function transitions according to each input signal (SDR/3D/HDR10/HLG).
So we are talking about swtiching to a different Color Profile, not Picture Mode. And based on gamut, not HDR flag.
I'm wondering how this is going to work... If I'm watching a standard full HD content (i.e. SDR BT.709) and then I switch to SDR BT.2020 material (like my satellite 4K receiver), how is the projector going to react? Is it switching to BT.2020 Color Profile, whatever is the picture mode you are using? If I have multiple BT.2020 profiles (e.g. with or without color filter), which one is selected? How is the picture mode affected? Most likely @Kris Deering can help me understanding.
Anyone? Who had opportunity to test the beta? Thanks in advance!
 

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Hi all !
I got the EFI-ES2000 a while back ago, but without the calibration plate.
Contacted the seller who would send the plate to me.
So far nothing...
But, I tried with a white plastic plate instead, No luck just reported back "error".
So I put the EFI-ES2000 on a white ceramic dinner plate from the kitchen, and the I1 Diagnostic program started.
It did all the tests without an error.
Since I have the original "INIT" file still, I went ahead and did a color calibration with the EFI, and followed up with a 33 point gamma cali with my Spyder X.
The picture was stunning ! A lot "warmer" then before, and skin tones looked more normal.
Tried " The Martian " and "Fantastic Beasts The Crimes Of Grindelwald "
They looked fantastic !!
Was this just blind luck, or can it still work (and pass I1 Diagnostic) with a non original white ceramic "target" ?
Or does this throw the EFI totally off ?
Would be fun to hear your thoughts, and maybe someone could try to do this with their EFI-ES2000 ?
 

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How far should the X-Rite i1 Pro2 meter be placed in front of the screen? Autocal says to place it 12 inches from the screen. However, from reading Manni's directions on the other site, he has it 2-3 feet from the screen.

Also, I can't seem to have it detected within the orange window in Autocal like the SpyderX did. I'm assuming that it's not a big deal?
 

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New Rs1000: I have installed a new RS1000 to replace my RS500. It is a worthy upgrade in picture quality and HDR for my light challenged set up. I really love the HDR performance. I have one issue. When I use the custom picture set-up (moving from a 16:9 to a 17:9 (zoom)), the tracking of the lens is not as accurate as my RS500 and repeatable. Sometimes, the picture ends up out of focus a few clicks. Sometimes, it is fine. Anyone have this issue? Am I doing something wrong? Thanks
 

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How far should the X-Rite i1 Pro2 meter be placed in front of the screen? Autocal says to place it 12 inches from the screen. However, from reading Manni's directions on the other site, he has it 2-3 feet from the screen.

Also, I can't seem to have it detected within the orange window in Autocal like the SpyderX did. I'm assuming that it's not a big deal?
I have my i1Pro2 3-4 feet back from screen...not important for it to show in orange rectangle...on the other had my SpyderX 12” from screen...
 
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New Rs1000: I have installed a new RS1000 to replace my RS500. It is a worthy upgrade in picture quality and HDR for my light challenged set up. I really love the HDR performance. I have one issue. When I use the custom picture set-up (moving from a 16:9 to a 17:9 (zoom)), the tracking of the lens is not as accurate as my RS500 and repeatable. Sometimes, the picture ends up out of focus a few clicks. Sometimes, it is fine. Anyone have this issue? Am I doing something wrong? Thanks
I usually wait approximately 45min-1hr, before any adjustments, as recommended in this forum.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke
 
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