Joined
·
2,600 Posts
Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread
31741 - 31760 of 35400 Posts
Joined
·
2,600 Posts
Detect? As in actually measuring the specific systems brightness? Through Autocal perhaps? I doubt there is a hidden sensor in there...
Joined
·
30,263 Posts
Poor choice of words on my part. I should have said calculate. You enter screen diagonal and screen gain. Projector can take that info and the zoom setting in the projector to determine throw. Projector will use that info, along with lamp age and manual iris setting to determine actual image brightness. From there the projector will be able to optimize the HDR image for your specific setup.
Joined
·
2,650 Posts
With Autocal 12 - the newest version (soon to be replaced) and the coming version 13 that will accompany the new firmware coming out in a month, you need a Datacal Spyder X and an X-Rite i1Pro2 (or equivalent - see below).
1) You need the Spyder X to calibrate gamma (the black and white greyscale) because the i1Pro2 isn't sensitive enough at darker levels. The Spyder X is also a lot faster.
2) You want i1Pro2 to calibrate the color, because the Spyder is too variable from unit to unit.
3) The i1Pro2 is not the i1Display. It is the much more expensive unit - which is now discontinued and mainly available used. Amazon sellers still have it near that price point - used - but on eBay I got the OEM version, the EFI ES-2000, for $300 plus tax and shipping. The ES-2000 is not a clone - it's the same unit, complete with the X-Rite logo and "i1PRO Rev. E" (its other name - search for all three names on eBay to find the best price) on its serial number panel on its bottom.
The EFI is detected by Autocal and DisplayCAL as an i1Pro2.
Joined
·
2,650 Posts
My way of toggling both gamma and color calibrations off or on together by toggling lamp power between High and Low (assuming you've only calibrated at one lamp power) was criticised - even after I brightness-matched my comparison photos - on the basis that changing lamp power requires a half-hour wait to stabilize, making on-the-fly comparison impossible.
I had been unhappy with my first way of comparing, by - in HDR10 mode (how I had set it to calibrate) - changing the manual iris setting from -3 to -4. Since I had calibrated wide open at iris 0, -4 is the first uncalibrated iris setting. But this lost the benefit of Frame Adapt tone-mapping, which adds a lot of life to the image.
But I've realized that I can play with the manual iris setting on the Frame Adapt settings screen where you set the HDR level and control the iris.This doesn't toggle the gamma calibration off, but at least lets you see the color calibration in its full glory with Frame Adapt on, versus Frame Adapt without the color calibration.
The difference between -3 and -4 is dramatic enough that I decided to include pictures not just of those two settings but of -2 and -5, so it's clear that the higher brightness in the calibrated range is not due to the very minor difference in brightness from one step in lens aperture (it's very hard to tell -2 and -3 apart and the same is true of -4 and -5) but is due to the toggling of the color calibration on and off. The pictures were taken with my DSLR all at the same settings in manual mode so that the camera wouldn't do any adjustments, and I turned off all adjustments in my photo editing program other than cropping and horizon leveling so I could make them all line up when moving from one to another.
Here's what my Autocal color calibration of my RS1000 (aka N5/NX5) looks like toggled on and off by adjusting the iris to take it out of the calibrated range with Frame Adapt active the whole time. (The image is from the Demo section of the Spears & Munsil UltraHD calibration disk.)
Click on any image to get the larger version. Click on the "tic-tac-toe board" icon to see the full image, and hit F11 to go full-screen without any bright stuff above or below the images. You can then slide left and right with your arrow keys to move from picture to picture. (The iris setting for each image is visible at its bottom.)
If you have the freeware IrfanView graphics program, download the four images from the screen you get when you click on one of them here, and use IrfanView in fullscreen mode (just hit Enter) to move from one image to the next with the left and right arrow keys without the jumping you get online hrtr, Instead, the image stands still and just changes its appearance. Much better for comparing them.
On more ordinary outdoor scenes, the difference on my JVC looks sort of like the way the color of the light changes when the sun goes behind a cloud and then comes back out. (Digital cameras even have white balance settings called "cloudy" and "sunny.")
![FA -2 Calibrated.jpg]()
![FA -3 Calibrated.jpg]()
![FA -4 Uncalibrated.jpg]()
![FA -5 Uncalibrated.jpg]()
I had been unhappy with my first way of comparing, by - in HDR10 mode (how I had set it to calibrate) - changing the manual iris setting from -3 to -4. Since I had calibrated wide open at iris 0, -4 is the first uncalibrated iris setting. But this lost the benefit of Frame Adapt tone-mapping, which adds a lot of life to the image.
But I've realized that I can play with the manual iris setting on the Frame Adapt settings screen where you set the HDR level and control the iris.This doesn't toggle the gamma calibration off, but at least lets you see the color calibration in its full glory with Frame Adapt on, versus Frame Adapt without the color calibration.
The difference between -3 and -4 is dramatic enough that I decided to include pictures not just of those two settings but of -2 and -5, so it's clear that the higher brightness in the calibrated range is not due to the very minor difference in brightness from one step in lens aperture (it's very hard to tell -2 and -3 apart and the same is true of -4 and -5) but is due to the toggling of the color calibration on and off. The pictures were taken with my DSLR all at the same settings in manual mode so that the camera wouldn't do any adjustments, and I turned off all adjustments in my photo editing program other than cropping and horizon leveling so I could make them all line up when moving from one to another.
Here's what my Autocal color calibration of my RS1000 (aka N5/NX5) looks like toggled on and off by adjusting the iris to take it out of the calibrated range with Frame Adapt active the whole time. (The image is from the Demo section of the Spears & Munsil UltraHD calibration disk.)
Click on any image to get the larger version. Click on the "tic-tac-toe board" icon to see the full image, and hit F11 to go full-screen without any bright stuff above or below the images. You can then slide left and right with your arrow keys to move from picture to picture. (The iris setting for each image is visible at its bottom.)
If you have the freeware IrfanView graphics program, download the four images from the screen you get when you click on one of them here, and use IrfanView in fullscreen mode (just hit Enter) to move from one image to the next with the left and right arrow keys without the jumping you get online hrtr, Instead, the image stands still and just changes its appearance. Much better for comparing them.
On more ordinary outdoor scenes, the difference on my JVC looks sort of like the way the color of the light changes when the sun goes behind a cloud and then comes back out. (Digital cameras even have white balance settings called "cloudy" and "sunny.")
Joined
·
2,650 Posts
Am I correct in assuming that the screen diagonal you enter is that of the Aspect:Auto 16:9 box, regardless of whether you also use Aspect:Zoom for scope films - or do you enter the 17:9 diagonal for lens memories that use Aspect:Zoom?
And by "manual iris" you mean what you set it to as your maximum iris before turning on the Dyamic Iris?
Thank you so much for this breakdown. This makes a lot more sense. I'll keep my eye on ebay.
Joined
·
30,263 Posts
If you have a 16:9 screen you use the diagonal. If you have a scope screen, you use the width of your scope screen to calculate what the diagonal is for a 16:9 screen of the same width of your screen.
Yes, projector uses the manual iris setting to help determine light output. I did not mention, but if you use an A-lens, Theater Optimizer also will take that into account.
Joined
·
30,263 Posts
When will you receive your projector? You are going to love it.
Joined
·
23,787 Posts
I’m putting aside all my fav films until this new update arrives.yep I heard it
and the low medium hight... are to be considered as auto low, auto medium & auto high...just to give opportunity to "season to taste" as Chris says...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Should be here by Tuesday/Wednesday. I'm hoping it'll be a large difference vs my 5040UB. The whole limited bitrate thing started killing my enjoyment on the Epson. (I know I know, I could do MadVR, etc). DTM on the JVC Sealed the deal for me.When will you receive your projector? You are going to love it.
Joined
·
2,650 Posts
I use a 17:9 area of my wall, painted with Cream & Sugar Ultra, a paint recipe from Home Theater Shack consisting of equal parts Valspar flat white latex and Basics silver acrylic paint. It's an 0.93 gain screen. I use maximum lens zoom and set the JVC to Aspect:Auto for anything narrower than 1.85:1 and Aspect:Zoom for everything else. No anamorphic lens.
So would I enter a different diagonal for each installation mode, the real diagonal for Aspect:Auto and the imaginary diagonal for Aspect:Zoom?
For Aspect:Zoom, do I treat the width of the 17:9 image as if it was the width of a 16:9 image and extrapolate the height of that to figure the diagonal?
One trick would be to remember that the hypotenuse of a 16:9 triangle is 18.35756. Divide that by 16, and you get 1.14735, which you can multiply by the width of the screen to get its 16:9 diagonal.
JVC could program that in and just ask the user to enter the width of the screen!
Joined
·
2 Posts
It's said that the Update 3.50 will revert all settings to factory default - does this include calibration data? So will we have to do a new autocal?
Joined
·
611 Posts
I went from 6040 to NX7. Night and day. You will be pleased.
Joined
·
2 Posts
Yes this is it.
I got my i1 pro 2 (also named i1 pro Rev E, not D) from ebay for 350€. You can find it here and there.
Joined
·
884 Posts
Yes, the difference in PQ will be significant and less tweaking is required, based on my transition from the 6040UB to the JVC NX. Enjoy it.
Peace and blessings,
Azeke
31741 - 31760 of 35400 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!