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Little more difficult for me as the projector is in a different room...I can try being right up against the wall...will see if that works. Still no luck so far
oh ... well maybe thats the issue the RF isnt getting through to other room ? I can wear my glasses a little way into next room (with door open and projector is near door.) while still watching but soon will cut out..

you'd need to synch it in the room same as projector Suspect ? or need to make and extension with a cable and have the emitter in the room ?
 

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I had an unusual issue occur last nite while watching Aquaman movie (ie UHD 4k disc with HDR). After the movie started, I noticed the screen was very dark during some of the early underwater scenes. In fact, the screen went dark on some occasions. I did a quick menu check to see if frame by frame HDR was on and as the "menu" came on, the entire screen brightened a lot where I could see the movie. Since it was on, I hit the menu button and as the "menu" disappeared, the screen got dark again. I then went to aperture setting and I was using Auto-2. I moved to auto 1 and it got better but was still very dark. I then turned it off and the scene lighted up a lot. I then changed to my Directv input which automatically goes to my USER1 picture mode which I recently calibrated for SDR and typical 1080 input. IT was very dark. I could lighten up by adjusting the aperture or contrast, but the picture was very dark for any applicable setting. I turned the projector off and then back on and everything returned to normal (as far as brightness/contrast at my standard aperture and contrast settings). I am assuming somehow the aperature was being driven by the auto 2 or auto 1 settings but I was surprised that switching to USER1 or any other picture mode setting did not correct issue.
Has anyone else had this issue with using AUTO 2 or AUTO1 versus manual?
Hi,

This is exactly how my N5 act nowadays. It started few months ago when it had about 900 hrs in lamp. Your solution to power off and on again is the only remedy I found. I am not using auto iris anymore because it is very disturbing when it happens during the film. It seems that it mostly happens when there is a very dark scene and iris/aperture is controlled below -12 or so. Iris/aperture then does not return fully open and stays below -10 or so even if setting is 0 and manual. I contacted JVC authorized service in my country (Finland) but they have no experience servicing this series and could not tell if it is problem with iris mechanics or with controlling software. However, this happens now more often, almost at every film having very dark scenes. Failure is independent of the source as far as I have managed to test.
 

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That's the same problem that has plagued the RS540. I've had my iris turned off for almost a year now for the same reason (RS540).
 

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Is there any repair available? And if there is, does mechanical iris or control board need to be changed? Just trying to find something to guide service before my warranty expires. I don't want them second guessing what to do and keep pj weeks or months.
 

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oh ... well maybe thats the issue the RF isnt getting through to other room ? I can wear my glasses a little way into next room (with door open and projector is near door.) while still watching but soon will cut out..

you'd need to synch it in the room same as projector Suspect ? or need to make and extension with a cable and have the emitter in the room ?
Do the glasses have to be able to see the screen / 3D content on the screen to sync for some reason? I’ve been in the non theater room that has the projector (which is right up against the adjoining wall) and holding the glasses right up to the 3D emitter...it can’t see the screen of course from there but figured it’d still pair then I could go in the theater room from there
 

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Do the glasses have to be able to see the screen / 3D content on the screen to sync for some reason? I’ve been in the non theater room that has the projector (which is right up against the adjoining wall) and holding the glasses right up to the 3D emitter...it can’t see the screen of course from there but figured it’d still pair then I could go in the theater room from there
dont think so. as long as near the projector to pair .... but no I dont think can then go off with them to another room, likely the RF signal wont reach and drop out soon.
 

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To pair the 3D glasses an actual 3D signal must be playing, and nothing to do with "seing" the screen, the signal from the emitter to the glasses is via RF ( Radio Frequencies ), but true the glasses need to be near the emitter to pair easily.
 

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Jumping in here with a question concerning Autocal. I have been trying desperately to connect to my Spyder5 meter and Autocal via a Macbook pro running windows with Bootcamp. my problem is that Autocal NEVER recognizes the meter, “not connected” message each time I try. It is a problem with the correct drivers I am assuming. I have asked this question before and have been told to update the driver, this does not work for me. The drivers need to be Apple/Bootcamp drivers, which I have installed. I am wondering if anyone actually uses a Mac/Bootcamp laptop to successfully run Autocal. Cannot get out the starting gate and have been trying for a long time. Thanks
 

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Jumping in here with a question concerning Autocal. I have been trying desperately to connect to my Spyder5 meter and Autocal via a Macbook pro running windows with Bootcamp. my problem is that Autocal NEVER recognizes the meter, “not connected” message each time I try. It is a problem with the correct drivers I am assuming. I have asked this question before and have been told to update the driver, this does not work for me. The drivers need to be Apple/Bootcamp drivers, which I have installed. I am wondering if anyone actually uses a Mac/Bootcamp laptop to successfully run Autocal. Cannot get out the starting gate and have been trying for a long time. Thanks
I was a full Apple house. But after trying everything to get this going, I ended up investing in a $300 PC laptop for just this purpose. :)
 

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Hi,

This is exactly how my N5 act nowadays. It started few months ago when it had about 900 hrs in lamp. Your solution to power off and on again is the only remedy I found. I am not using auto iris anymore because it is very disturbing when it happens during the film. It seems that it mostly happens when there is a very dark scene and iris/aperture is controlled below -12 or so. Iris/aperture then does not return fully open and stays below -10 or so even if setting is 0 and manual. I contacted JVC authorized service in my country (Finland) but they have no experience servicing this series and could not tell if it is problem with iris mechanics or with controlling software. However, this happens now more often, almost at every film having very dark scenes. Failure is independent of the source as far as I have managed to test.
Xenofin--Thanks for the reply. I was worried since I had not seen any responses that my experience was unique. I know there was a bug in the earlier released models (if I remember correctly) that kept the Auto 1 and Auto 2 from working correctly but I thought there was a firmware update that corrected that issue. I also have stopped using the Auto 1 and Auto 2 settings but was hoping to see if this was something common with use of these auto Iris features or if I have something wrong with my unit.
Pinging M. Garrett, Arrow or other "super" technical guys on the site--Is this issue normal or is this something we as an owner of these projectors should be concerned with?
 

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oh ... well maybe thats the issue the RF isnt getting through to other room ? I can wear my glasses a little way into next room (with door open and projector is near door.) while still watching but soon will cut out..

you'd need to synch it in the room same as projector Suspect ? or need to make and extension with a cable and have the emitter in the room ?
Since the emitter plugs into what looks like a 5 pin DIN jack, maybe you can find a cable to plug into the jack and let you move the emitter into the theater.

I think that's the kind of jack that was used for S-Video, so if you have an old S-Video cable lying around, see if it fits. If it does, here's a 25 foot male-to-female S-Video extension cable at Amazon
 

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Xenofin--Thanks for the reply. I was worried since I had not seen any responses that my experience was unique. I know there was a bug in the earlier released models (if I remember correctly) that kept the Auto 1 and Auto 2 from working correctly but I thought there was a firmware update that corrected that issue. I also have stopped using the Auto 1 and Auto 2 settings but was hoping to see if this was something common with use of these auto Iris features or if I have something wrong with my unit.
Pinging M. Garrett, Arrow or other "super" technical guys on the site--Is this issue normal or is this something we as an owner of these projectors should be concerned with?
Has this happened only once or multiple times?
 

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Has this happened only once or multiple times?
Don't know if this is the same issue we saw with the previous generation. But I recall that those of us that always turned the JVC off as the last device in the chain never encountered the stuck iris. It seemed to occur if the JVC was powered down while receiving an SDR input signal. SDR because the iris is often configured to a more closed down position. Then when powered up again the iris was stuck at the setting used for SDR.
 
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Since the emitter plugs into what looks like a 5 pin DIN jack, maybe you can find a cable to plug into the jack and let you move the emitter into the theater.

I think that's the kind of jack that was used for S-Video, so if you have an old S-Video cable lying around, see if it fits. If it does, here's a 25 foot male-to-female S-Video extension cable at Amazon
Thats kind of my next thing to try if moving the projector into that room ends up getting it to work. Ill be trying to move it later today to see if that works
In the mean time, I've tried looking for extension cables for it, but they don't seem to exist
Definitely looks like a proprietary port? Its not a 5 pin DIN jack...its got 3 pins. I dont have an s video cable to try...but I dont see any possible way an S Video cable would fit into this
I know its tough to see here, couldn't find a quality pic quickly...but I haven't been able to find a cable like this. I thought about purchasing the IR version which I believe includes like a 1 ft cable thats attached directly to the IR device...then I'd have to cut it and maybe solder 3 pins with a CAT 6 cable? I don't know...I wouldn't exactly know what I am doing there if it comes to that. Otherwise I return this and just go with IR glasses.
3049378
 

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Thats kind of my next thing to try if moving the projector into that room ends up getting it to work. Ill be trying to move it later today to see if that works
In the mean time, I've tried looking for extension cables for it, but they don't seem to exist
Definitely looks like a proprietary port? Its not a 5 pin DIN jack...its got 3 pins. I dont have an s video cable to try...but I dont see any possible way an S Video cable would fit into this
I know its tough to see here, couldn't find a quality pic quickly...but I haven't been able to find a cable like this. I thought about purchasing the IR version which I believe includes like a 1 ft cable thats attached directly to the IR device...then I'd have to cut it and maybe solder 3 pins with a CAT 6 cable? I don't know...I wouldn't exactly know what I am doing there if it comes to that. Otherwise I return this and just go with IR glasses.
View attachment 3049378
Tried it with the projector in the room for over an hour...still no luck :(
 

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JVC NX5 at 140", Denon X4200W (5.1.2) with Axiom Audio speakers + Bass Shakers
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Jumping in here with a question concerning Autocal. I have been trying desperately to connect to my Spyder5 meter and Autocal via a Macbook pro running windows with Bootcamp. my problem is that Autocal NEVER recognizes the meter, “not connected” message each time I try. It is a problem with the correct drivers I am assuming. I have asked this question before and have been told to update the driver, this does not work for me. The drivers need to be Apple/Bootcamp drivers, which I have installed. I am wondering if anyone actually uses a Mac/Bootcamp laptop to successfully run Autocal. Cannot get out the starting gate and have been trying for a long time. Thanks
Instead of bootcamp, you could use virtualization to run autocal.


This is free, and you could just install Windows without a key for the 30 day grace period and run autocal. You can easily pass-through USB devices like the Spyder5 into the VM.
 

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Jumping in here with a question concerning Autocal. I have been trying desperately to connect to my Spyder5 meter and Autocal via a Macbook pro running windows with Bootcamp. my problem is that Autocal NEVER recognizes the meter, “not connected” message each time I try. It is a problem with the correct drivers I am assuming. I have asked this question before and have been told to update the driver, this does not work for me. The drivers need to be Apple/Bootcamp drivers, which I have installed. I am wondering if anyone actually uses a Mac/Bootcamp laptop to successfully run Autocal. Cannot get out the starting gate and have been trying for a long time. Thanks
As SirMaster mentions, I have had absolutely no issues what-so-ever running autocal on a Mac using Parallels windows 10 virtualization. I just loaded the drivers from the manufacturer for windows 10. You can get Parallels for $50 or less and there are free virtualization packages as well.
 

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Has this happened only once or multiple times?
Mike--For me, it occurred twice while watching Aquaman--UHD disk. Both times, I was using the frame by frame HDR mode and using Auto-2 aperture control. I have since stopped using any auto mode on the aperture. Have not experienced it again, but have not tried to recreate. It concerned me that in both cases, I switched back to my "user 1" mode, the picture was very dark on SDR.
 

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Last night I was viewing the S&M UHD disc and (for the first time) chose to look at the option "ticker tape". I was astounded that, although the upper banner was readable, neither the middle or lower banner (as well as the thumbnails) could be perfectly read unless I enabled C.M.D. on high and motion enhance on (at least) low. Obviously, I would prefer to avoid the dreaded S.O.E., but should "ticker tape" appear like this without enabling interpolation on the NX7?
 
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