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I have asked this question before and have been told to update the driver, this does not work for me. The drivers need to be Apple/Bootcamp drivers, which I have installed. I am wondering if anyone actually uses a Mac/Bootcamp laptop to successfully run Autocal.
I just installed Bootcamp on my Early 2013 Macbook Pro. Autocal runs fine just like on a Windows laptop. I'm running Autocal v7 but I don't expect v11 to be any different.
The Apple/Bootcamp drivers are only for the MacBook itself (ethernet, wifi, webcam); the Spyder and all other external devices should use the same drivers as any Windows computers.

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | 6.1.4: B&W 802D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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I notice sparkles every once in a blue moon on my ST130 G3, but not enough that it bothers me.
I notice them, too on my ST130 G4 but only a tiny bit. At first, I never saw them but I can see them sometimes now. It's so small it doesn't bother me at all. The ST130 is outstanding. It really was a significant brightness boost over my 1.0 gain.
 

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Mike--For me, it occurred twice while watching Aquaman--UHD disk. Both times, I was using the frame by frame HDR mode and using Auto-2 aperture control. I have since stopped using any auto mode on the aperture. Have not experienced it again, but have not tried to recreate. It concerned me that in both cases, I switched back to my "user 1" mode, the picture was very dark on SDR.
Send me a picture of the serial number.
 

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Don't know if this is the same issue we saw with the previous generation. But I recall that those of us that always turned the JVC off as the last device in the chain never encountered the stuck iris. It seemed to occur if the JVC was powered down while receiving an SDR input signal. SDR because the iris is often configured to a more closed down position. Then when powered up again the iris was stuck at the setting used for SDR.
Auto iris and aperture function is not totally stuck. Iris just doesn't open fully anymore. I am using -6 setting now with SDR (with new lamp -10) but iris does not even open up to this level. And it happens always in the middle of presentation, disk or stream. At first I thought it was because of high temps but measured exhaust air temp has always been quite stable, 56 C +/- 2 C, room temp 22-28 C.
I am using Logitech Hub to control my home theater devices. I'll check now command chain when JVC is powered down and if your suggestion has any effect. N5 worked 900 hrs without iris problem (14 months). Thanks for this tip.
 

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I notice them, too on my ST130 G4 but only a tiny bit. At first, I never saw them but I can see them sometimes now. It's so small it doesn't bother me at all. The ST130 is outstanding. It really was a significant brightness boost over my 1.0 gain.
I've never noticed them on my ST130 G4, but don't know what to look for. I also try to avoid looking beyond what I see, which is a stunning image!
 

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I just installed Bootcamp on my Early 2013 Macbook Pro. Autocal runs fine just like on a Windows laptop. I'm running Autocal v7 but I don't expect v11 to be any different.
The Apple/Bootcamp drivers are only for the MacBook itself (ethernet, wifi, webcam); the Spyder and all other external devices should use the same drivers as any Windows computers.

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Hmm, my laptop is a late 2008 MacBook Pro and I am running Windows 7 32 bit. Windows 10 64 bit would not load the Bootcamp drivers. I can get Autocal v11 to open and recognize my projector, but it fails to recognize the meter, either the SpyderX in v12 or Spyder5 in V11. You had earlier recommended that I update the driver in Device Manager but what driver do I use? You had mentioned “winusb”, tried that but no change. If you have any other thoughts I‘d love to not purchase a PC. Much thanks
 

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Hmm, my laptop is a late 2008 MacBook Pro and I am running Windows 7 32 bit. Windows 10 64 bit would not load the Bootcamp drivers. I can get Autocal v11 to open and recognize my projector, but it fails to recognize the meter, either the SpyderX in v12 or Spyder5 in V11. You had earlier recommended that I update the driver in Device Manager but what driver do I use? You had mentioned “winusb”, tried that but no change. If you have any other thoughts I‘d love to not purchase a PC. Much thanks
I had to install the Datacolor software for Spyder 5 Pro, which includes and installs the driver. I did not run the software, and closed the background monitor which may interfere.
The Winusb driver is only for the Spyder X, which I’m unable to test with my e-Shift projectors.
 

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I had to install the Datacolor software for Spyder 5 Pro, which includes and installs the driver. I did not run the software, and closed the background monitor which may interfere.
The Winusb driver is only for the Spyder X, which I’m unable to test with my e-Shift projectors.
That's what I have done also. Just install the manufacturer software but you don't need to run the software. The drivers will install automatically. It shouldn't be an issue with autocal.
 

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I had to install the Datacolor software for Spyder 5 Pro, which includes and installs the driver. I did not run the software, and closed the background monitor which may interfere.
The Winusb driver is only for the Spyder X, which I’m unable to test with my e-Shift projectors.
That makes sense but I did do this with the SpyderX pro and was told that this was my problem. maybe I opened the app and created an issue. How do you close the background monitor without first opening the app? Probably a dumb question
 

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That makes sense but I did do this with the SpyderX pro and was told that this was my problem. maybe I opened the app and created an issue. How do you close the background monitor without first opening the app? Probably a dumb question
Yes, that sounds contradictory but immediately after installation the software turned on the background monitor, which I turned off. It was at the system tray (the group of hidden icons at the bottom right corner).
 

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Hi,

This is exactly how my N5 act nowadays. It started few months ago when it had about 900 hrs in lamp. Your solution to power off and on again is the only remedy I found. I am not using auto iris anymore because it is very disturbing when it happens during the film. It seems that it mostly happens when there is a very dark scene and iris/aperture is controlled below -12 or so. Iris/aperture then does not return fully open and stays below -10 or so even if setting is 0 and manual. I contacted JVC authorized service in my country (Finland) but they have no experience servicing this series and could not tell if it is problem with iris mechanics or with controlling software. However, this happens now more often, almost at every film having very dark scenes. Failure is independent of the source as far as I have managed to test.
I had an unusual issue occur last nite while watching Aquaman movie (ie UHD 4k disc with HDR). After the movie started, I noticed the screen was very dark during some of the early underwater scenes. In fact, the screen went dark on some occasions. I did a quick menu check to see if frame by frame HDR was on and as the "menu" came on, the entire screen brightened a lot where I could see the movie. Since it was on, I hit the menu button and as the "menu" disappeared, the screen got dark again. I then went to aperture setting and I was using Auto-2. I moved to auto 1 and it got better but was still very dark. I then turned it off and the scene lighted up a lot. I then changed to my Directv input which automatically goes to my USER1 picture mode which I recently calibrated for SDR and typical 1080 input. IT was very dark. I could lighten up by adjusting the aperture or contrast, but the picture was very dark for any applicable setting. I turned the projector off and then back on and everything returned to normal (as far as brightness/contrast at my standard aperture and contrast settings). I am assuming somehow the aperature was being driven by the auto 2 or auto 1 settings but I was surprised that switching to USER1 or any other picture mode setting did not correct issue.
Has anyone else had this issue with using AUTO 2 or AUTO1 versus manual?

I have the same/similar problem. I have only see it happen after the RS1000 has been on for ~3 hours (ambient air temp ~71F). After I watch an HDR movie, I switch to an SDR source and ~20-60 min later the screen appears to get much darker, but it's not actually the entire screen (see pic). It does not happen consistently, but it did just start recently. When I switch back to an HDR source the issue goes away. While watching normal programming, most of the screen appears to darken, but I waited for a full white background commercial to get a better idea of what was happening. Also, attached a pic of the blue background without an input.
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jvc-prob4.JPG jvc-prob3.JPG
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | 6.1.4: B&W 802D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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I've never noticed them on my ST130 G4, but don't know what to look for. I also try to avoid looking beyond what I see, which is a stunning image!
Sounds great! I'd never go intentionally looking hard for something that could only result in you enjoying your system worse should you find it.
 

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Start the task manager ( Ctrl + Alt + Suppr ), click on the startup tab and disable the Datacolor appl autostart.
You can also uninstall the Datacolor program, it normally leaves the driver installed.
 

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If you aren't sure how to get to msconfig in Win 7, you type that in under Windows / Run.
 

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What is the best way to measure light output for HDR now that I have calibrated my projector? I tried using a 100 IRE test pattern and was surprised by the final value for foot lamberts.

Perhaps my light meter needs to be calibrated. Or perhaps there is a better method,
 

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What is the best way to measure light output for HDR now that I have calibrated my projector? I tried using a 100 IRE test pattern and was surprised by the final value for foot lamberts.

Perhaps my light meter needs to be calibrated. Or perhaps there is a better method,
The difference between HDR and SDR (+46%) is smaller than I expect. However, it would be more consistent to use HDR10, rather than Frame Adapt, for the comparison.
On my RS500, I get 65 nits on SDR (Iris -8, no filter, low lamp) and 124 nits on HDR (Iris 0, filter, high lamp), a 90% increase. Measured with the same pattern, same lens zoom.
 

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What sort of light meter is used? Can a DSLR's through the lens meter be used? How would I translate its f/stop-shutter speed - ISO combination into the kind of numbers that are talked about here? Or could I use one of the meters I used with AutoCal?
 
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