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aka jfinnie
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Since the Roku doesn't have Dolby Vision, what does it do when it is fed a Netflix movie that is available in Dolby Vision?
Well, logically you can't feed it a DV movie if it doesn't support DV.
You'd be reliant on Netflix having a head-end version available in HDR10 that they could stream to you.
If there isn't an HDR10 version available I guess you end up with streamed 4K SDR only.
 

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Well, logically you can't feed it a DV movie if it doesn't support DV.
You'd be reliant on Netflix having a head-end version available in HDR10 that they could stream to you. If there isn't an HDR10 version available I guess you end up with streamed 4K SDR only.
That's what I was figuring also. Thanks.
 

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I'll choose to take that first sentence as being "tongue in cheek". :) Bradenton, FL has some very affluent tenants. Very nice Cinemas and a IMAX. The individual who own the home shown lives in a gated Community, but the "Custom Built to Spec" home allowed no input after signing the build contract, so the Room had to come as the plans showed. Then there was the personal wishes of the Owner / Wife to consider. Still, as I state below, I was able to make something more special happen than one might expect.

I'm sorry you mistook my comments. They were about "Byhalia, Mississippi" which is where your location is listed. I looked up Byhalia on wikipedia and it showed info about "your location" with a population of about 1,200 people and a average income of $36k. Now read my comments and you will find I was being sincere as well as tongue in cheek. I don't know where Bradenton, FL is in regards to your location. :)
 

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If I look at the screen from up close, I can see what looks like pixels dancing around in the gray background of the menu. Like a high speed noise. Is this normal? Perhaps the mosquito noise that people talk about? I'm not seeing it from viewing distance.
 

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Quick update. So i checked convergence again with pixel alignment off and it is better now. Almost to the point where i think i can live without zone adjustment. I guess this lens really needs a break in period. It will be interesting to see how my replacement unit does. This is one quirky odd piece of optics. :p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Since the Roku doesn't have Dolby Vision, what does it do when it is fed a Netflix movie that is available in Dolby Vision?
Every Netflix title encoded to Dolby Vision also has an HDR10 encode and an SDR encode. The Roku will output the HDR10 encode of the title.

http://www.streamingmedia.com/Artic...flix-Talks-Dolby-Vision-and-HDR10-118853.aspx

Streaming Media: When you say your HDR sources are Dolby Vision (DoVi), what does that mean? Is that a container format? Codec? Both with metadata?

We ingest Dolby Vision IMF masters. They are IMF with J2K video and Dolby Vision metadata.

Are you using a separate encoder, or did you build HDR into your cloud encoder?

We partnered with Beamr (formerly Vanguard Video) and Dolby to add Dolby Vision support into V265, the HEVC encoder that we use in our UHD encoding workflow (4K Rec. 709, DoVi, and HDR10).

Are you preparing separate encodes for DoVi, HDR10 and Rec709 or can you create a single output that includes two or more?

Dolby tools natively enable deriving Rec. 709 and HDR-10 from the DoVi source. This allows us to produce all of our encodes from the Dolby Vision source. These profiles include the Rec. 709 profiles: CE1 & CE2 (legacy VC1), CE3 (H264), CE4 (10-bit HEVC, and VP9), and our mobile profiles AVC-HiProfile and VP9-M (8-bit), in addition to the CE4 HDR profiles: Dolby Vision and HDR10 (HEVC), and VP9.
 

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MississippiMan is absolutely correct. Never having seen the RPMA and SLM281 in person, I was assuming that the adapter plate was the same in both cases. Now the picture of the RPMA makes more sense. Assumptions are always dangerous!



That said, since I'm very conservative sometimes (especially after what I spent on my RS3000), I'm more comfortable with the thumb nuts. It seems that there's more chance for error in making sure the locking plate is properly engaged (but I might change that opinion if I actually had hands on with it).



Thus I'm happy with the RPA/SLB combination that I've had for many years. For me, tightening the thumb nuts is simplicity itself. You just push up one side of the projector, tighten 3 nuts and repeat on the other side. That part is an easy one man operation.



I also much prefer the RPA for flush mounting. It has a big area that bears against the ceiling vs just the small collar on the RPMA. Of course, for pipe mounting, there is no difference.



The big factor is adjustment. Obviously, the RPMA is MUCH better in this regard. I just spent over 3 hours doing the adjustment on my RPA. I estimate that it would have taken only 1/2 to 1 hour with the RPMA. Still, it won't have to be done again for the life of the projector so I don't consider that a very big deal.



I'm not trying to advocate one over the other here, but just trying to make sure that anyone reading this will have the full benefit of my experience.


I don’t think you can use the SLB281 with the RPM mount.

From what I’ve read:

SLM281 goes with RPM mount.
SLB281 goes with RPA mount.
 

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I switched to the RPMA/SLM from the RPA/SLB while mounting the RS3000 last night, so that I still had a mount for the RS600 being taken down. The RPMA has 3 closed keyhole slots on one end and 3 open on the other, and the locking plate then slides over when you push the lever. The key lock (with key options A/B/C) is just to keep the locking plate lever in the locked position for security (it's a PC case style cheap lock). So long as you can see all the slots as you lift, they are pretty similar for ease of install but as already mentioned the RPMA is a doddle to align.


Good deal. Glad to hear that you had a good experience.
 

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MississippiMan is absolutely correct. Never having seen the RPMA and SLM281 in person, I was assuming that the adapter plate was the same in both cases. Now the picture of the RPMA makes more sense. Assumptions are always dangerous!

That said, since I'm very conservative sometimes (especially after what I spent on my RS3000), I'm more comfortable with the thumb nuts. It seems that there's more chance for error in making sure the locking plate is properly engaged (but I might change that opinion if I actually had hands on with it).

Thus I'm happy with the RPA/SLB combination that I've had for many years. For me, tightening the thumb nuts is simplicity itself. You just push up one side of the projector, tighten 3 nuts and repeat on the other side. That part is an easy one man operation.

I also much prefer the RPA for flush mounting. It has a big area that bears against the ceiling vs just the small collar on the RPMA. Of course, for pipe mounting, there is no difference.

The big factor is adjustment. Obviously, the RPMA is MUCH better in this regard. I just spent over 3 hours doing the adjustment on my RPA. I estimate that it would have taken only 1/2 to 1 hour with the RPMA. Still, it won't have to be done again for the life of the projector so I don't consider that a very big deal.

I'm not trying to advocate one over the other here, but just trying to make sure that anyone reading this will have the full benefit of my experience.
Have had many users that have gone from an RPA mount to an RPMA. Afterwords, not a single one of them would ever go back to an RPA.
 

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If I look at the screen from up close, I can see what looks like pixels dancing around in the gray background of the menu. Like a high speed noise. Is this normal? Perhaps the mosquito noise that people talk about? I'm not seeing it from viewing distance.
Yes and as you said, can't be seen from your seat.
 

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aka jfinnie
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Using a player like the Apple TV 4K that supports Dolby Vision together with a Dolby Vision display, you will only see the Dolby Vision label on titles. Using a HDR10 display with ATV4K, the titles are labeled HDR. Using a player like the Roku that supports HDR10, you will only see the HDR label.
No they won't be, this is wrong. They will be labelled with the "Vision" badge and will be streamed to the ATV4k as Dolby Vision (I've just checked, this is definitely the case). The Dolby Vision profile 5 stream (no HDR10 base layer) is then converted in the ATV4K to "HDR10"ish output (ish because it will often have bogus changing metadata which shouldn't happen for proper HDR10).

You can see this very clearly in action by using Xcode on a Mac to enable the Developer Heads Up Display in the ATV4k, which will show you the streamed format and output format.
 

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No they won't be, this is wrong. They will be labelled with the "Vision" badge and will be streamed to the ATV4k as Dolby Vision (I've just checked, this is definitely the case). The Dolby Vision profile 5 stream (no HDR10 base layer) is then converted in the ATV4K to "HDR10"ish output (ish because it will often have bogus changing metadata which shouldn't happen for proper HDR10).

You can see this very clearly in action by using Xcode on a Mac to enable the Developer Heads Up Display in the ATV4k, which will show you the streamed format and output format.
OK. That is the way the ATV4K works. But not other devices such as the Roku; they do not convert a Dolby Vision stream. They get an HDR10 encode of the title. Which might explain why the Roku does have have the variable metadata that the ATV does.
 
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For the RS2000

If you could ONLY buy either which would you buy and why?

Panamorph DCR Lens
Lumagen

As is in my signature you will see 120" 2:35 Studiotek 130. We watch mostly 4K HDR movies, some Netflix BlueRays and a little AppleTV stuff. No Gaming.
 
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Have had many users that have gone from an RPA mount to an RPMA. Afterwords, not a single one of them would ever go back to an RPA.
I was one of those users. I have to tell you that when it came to lifting the RS3000 onto the mount (at 50% more weight than my old RS60), I was VERY glad I moved to the RPMA. I often struggled to get the pins in place with the RPA and then I had to tighten them, which was difficult with the projector weight hanging on them (or you try to lift and tighten at the same time). I think I could have accomplished it if I had three arms, sure I could with four, but, alas, I only have two of them. It was much easier with the RPMA, which was welcome, given the extra weight.

And, as others have mentioned, it was really easy to adjust into place and locks a bit more firmly. I would highly recommend it.
 

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For the RS2000

If you could ONLY buy either which would you buy and why?

Panamorph DCR Lens
Lumagen

As is in my signature you will see 120" 2:35 Studiotek 130. We watch mostly 4K HDR movies, some Netflix BlueRays and a little AppleTV stuff. No Gaming.
A-lens! Especially if the JVC can tone-map well enough to where I don't see the benefit of the Lumagen. I'm sure I'm missing something, but between built-in tone-mapping, autocal, and A-lens scaling, I don't really see the benefit of a Lumagen other than to squeeze maybe 5% at best better perceived picture with video processing/calibration enhancements. :confused:
 

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I was thinking of getting the ATV 4k for my HT room once my NX7 arrives, but based on your experience I'm going to have to seriously consider the Roku. But the Roku does not do Dolby Vision, right? So what happens when, say, some Netflix program is in Dolby Vision? I did a search on the internet, and one site says you end up with HDR10 (which doesn't make sense to me), while another site said you still get 4K but no HDR.
I have been using the ATV 4K with a new RS3000 and so far no issues. A minor annoyance is that the DolbyVision titles are not sending correct HDR10 metadata to the projector. So some of the DolbyVision titles require adjusting the auto tone mapping until you get a more accurate picture. Honestly it isn't a big deal. It is certainly watchable even without tweaking the tone mapping, it is just better if you tweak it a little. HDR10 titles all appear to be sending correct metadata. Only DolbyVision titles have the HDR10 metadata issue, which is understandable since DolbyVision content doesn't normally contain HDR10 metadata when streaming.
 

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For the RS2000

If you could ONLY buy either which would you buy and why?

Panamorph DCR Lens
Lumagen

As is in my signature you will see 120" 2:35 Studiotek 130. We watch mostly 4K HDR movies, some Netflix BlueRays and a little AppleTV stuff. No Gaming.
I guess part of the answer this, would depend on how many of the features of the Lumagen you would use and how much time and effort you are willing to invest. The Lumagen can do many things, but it is fairly complicated to use many of its features. The DCR is a simple device.
 
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