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Do we have other owners of this projector in the forum who could try the same? Is this level of increase in noise really normal? This is quite an expensive (and huge) unit, i would expect better noise control, it was surprising that previous Sony was so much better in this regard.

Thanks
Tuomas
I haven't measured mine but there is a fairly good jump from low fan to high fan especially in high altitude mode.

One thing you can try, lower the temperature of your theater room. If your projector is ceiling mounted and your room temp is above 70 degrees then your fan could be working more than it needs to be to keep your projector cool.

If you drop your room temp down to say 68 or lower it might seem a little cool in the room but fan noise will drop quite a bit. We live at 8000 feet and I have to run in high altitude mode but our theater is always around 65 degrees and the fan noise isn't too bad. I notice it is louder when our room temp exceeds 70 degrees.
 

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Not sure if this is the right place to post ....
Have decided to go over budget and get an NX5

I'm looking to make the most of this projector in a 155" - 166" 2.35:1 screen space

Is there an ideal throw position considering brightness / zoom, etc
 

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Not sure if this is the right place to post ....
Have decided to go over budget and get an NX5

I'm looking to make the most of this projector in a 155" - 166" 2.35:1 screen space

Is there an ideal throw position considering brightness / zoom, etc
That is pretty large for this projector. You will want to be as close as possible to get the most light possible. Ask Mike Garrett or check out the JVC manual for minimum throw distance for that size screen.

For something that big, I think you need to think about getting an anamorphic lens for 2.35:1 and a higher gain screen.
 

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For those who have run AutoCal did it result in any noticeable difference? Either good or bad. :) I presume I can always restore the original settings (init file) however I'm wondering in practice what benefits you typically see. If I restore the settings I presume I'll be undoing everything I had previously saved regardless of the number of times I ran it with various settings.
 

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For those who have run AutoCal did it result in any noticeable difference? Either good or bad. :) I presume I can always restore the original settings (init file) however I'm wondering in practice what benefits you typically see. If I restore the settings I presume I'll be undoing everything I had previously saved regardless of the number of times I ran it with various settings.
I ran JVC's Autocal last October, using a Spyder X for gamma and for color an ESI EF-2000 (the budget OEM version of the XRite i1Pro2 - it's the same piece of hardware, it even has the XRite logo on its bottom - it's just not licensed for some XRite software that JVC's Autocal doesn't use).

I found that the Autocal calibration resulted in richer colors because the stock setting's color was a little too cool (not enough red).

The effect wasn't "knock your socks off" different but subtly richer color.

This is a link to my post of screenshots here last October showing the difference. The image is of a peacock feather from the demo section of the Spears & Munsil UltraHD calibration disk.

I posted four photos of the same frame (in Frame Adapt mode) with the Manual Iris setting moved one step at a time, from -2 to -3 to -4 to -5.

The difference between calibrated and uncalibrated is the step between the two middle photos: -3 and -4.

The outer pair of photos are just there to show how little effect one step of the iris has - the first two photos (-2 and -3) are inside the range that's calibrated (0 to -3), the other two (-4 and -5) are outside the calibrated range. The reason for including all four is to show that the difference of one step of the iris isn't what makes the difference - the transition between inside and outside of the calibrated range is.
 
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Wanted to know if the NX7 will work on an Elite Screen 150" 16:9 Cinegrey 3D?
I already have that screen and planning on upgrading to the NX7

. I've had it for 3 years on an Epson 5040 and 100% content with using it along with my Epson 5040

Would appreciated any advice if it works with it


Thanks
 

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I haven't measured mine but there is a fairly good jump from low fan to high fan especially in high altitude mode.

One thing you can try, lower the temperature of your theater room. If your projector is ceiling mounted and your room temp is above 70 degrees then your fan could be working more than it needs to be to keep your projector cool.

If you drop your room temp down to say 68 or lower it might seem a little cool in the room but fan noise will drop quite a bit. We live at 8000 feet and I have to run in high altitude mode but our theater is always around 65 degrees and the fan noise isn't too bad. I notice it is louder when our room temp exceeds 70 degrees.
Hi, thank you for the response. Projector is indeed ceiling mounted and room is always quite stable at 68-69 fahrenheit (20.5-22celcius). I live in Finland so during winter time i guess i could just open the door :)

Seems quite strange that dropping from 70f to 65f would change the way the fans work, as almost all rooms are around 68-69f so one would assume JVC would design their cooling to be optimised for that temperature, its not a huge difference from cooling point of view to drop 5f.. Anyway, i will will test this out, although i think i wont be able to get my living room under 20c.
 

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Hi folks. I'm new to the world of projectors and started out with the DLA-NX5. After reading a bit about ceiling mounts, it seemed like I was limited to the Chief, Peerless or Strong. I ended up going with the Strong as I was installing and adjusting it myself and the fine adjustment knobs seemed super easy. To anyone with this mount (that is, the SM-PROJ-XL), I have it mounted into a joist with two lag screws and I'm not concerned about the ceiling plate's sturdiness, but I'm a little concerned about the strength of the arms of the projector plate. It seemed pretty sturdy when I screwed it in, but the arms are extended out as far as they can go and now that it's supporting the full 43 lbs of the projector, it seems only the tips of the arms are still touching the projector. Is it normal that the main plate be lifted up off the projector by a bit?

Man, I would hate to have an arm fail or a screw break and this whole thing come down.
 

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Hi folks. I'm new to the world of projectors and started out with the DLA-NX5. After reading a bit about ceiling mounts, it seemed like I was limited to the Chief, Peerless or Strong. I ended up going with the Strong as I was installing and adjusting it myself and the fine adjustment knobs seemed super easy. To anyone with this mount (that is, the SM-PROJ-XL), I have it mounted into a joist with two lag screws and I'm not concerned about the ceiling plate's sturdiness, but I'm a little concerned about the strength of the arms of the projector plate. It seemed pretty sturdy when I screwed it in, but the arms are extended out as far as they can go and now that it's supporting the full 43 lbs of the projector, it seems only the tips of the arms are still touching the projector. Is it normal that the main plate be lifted up off the projector by a bit?

Man, I would hate to have an arm fail or a screw break and this whole thing come down.
I have the same mount on an NX-7...I just checked mine for you...it seems from the tip to about an inch back from the tip are touching the projector...I‘ve wobbled my projector a bit and in my case I don’t think it’s going anywhere...as you mentioned, the mount is super easy to dial in...I initially was concerned about a bit of wobble but a very knowledgeable source on this board told me all mounts have a bit of wobble...I am now very happy with my Strong mount as I’ve had to dial it in a few times due to bulb replacement etc...
 
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Hi folks. I'm new to the world of projectors and started out with the DLA-NX5. After reading a bit about ceiling mounts, it seemed like I was limited to the Chief, Peerless or Strong. I ended up going with the Strong as I was installing and adjusting it myself and the fine adjustment knobs seemed super easy. To anyone with this mount (that is, the SM-PROJ-XL), I have it mounted into a joist with two lag screws and I'm not concerned about the ceiling plate's sturdiness, but I'm a little concerned about the strength of the arms of the projector plate. It seemed pretty sturdy when I screwed it in, but the arms are extended out as far as they can go and now that it's supporting the full 43 lbs of the projector, it seems only the tips of the arms are still touching the projector. Is it normal that the main plate be lifted up off the projector by a bit?

Man, I would hate to have an arm fail or a screw break and this whole thing come down.
Crimson also has a nice gear adjustable mount that is available with a custom plate, rather than arms.
 

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For those who have run AutoCal did it result in any noticeable difference? Either good or bad. :) I presume I can always restore the original settings (init file) however I'm wondering in practice what benefits you typically see. If I restore the settings I presume I'll be undoing everything I had previously saved regardless of the number of times I ran it with various settings.
I ran autocal on my first NX9 (returned due to the green line issue) and the impact was not noticeable and when I checked with my Chromapure, the white balance was way off. I did several Autocals which I found moved the 6500 point from too low to a little too high. However, after several autocals (I did reset back to factory a couple of times during that process) the 6500 point was very close and the color depth and white balance got better per my Chromapure. However I was never able to get all of the colors balanced via Chromapure even though autocal said they were closer. shortly after that, the green line appeared a third time and I got the unit replaced (thanks MG).

The new unit looked great out of the box and a run with the autocal did improve it somewhat but it looked very good even before the autocal. My pleasant surprise however was when I checked with Chromapure, White balance, gamma and color were dead on. I never had a projector that nice looking out of the box and especially after the autocal.

THis was on SDR only. I am still struggling how to get a calibration with HDR however. Its probably my inexperience but many times I prefer SDR (go figger) to HDR. I have gotten a better handle on HDR by using TO and tweaking the light and dark shades but I do not understand exactly what I am doing so its by eyeball versus a meter or reading for HDR.
One final point, check your panel alignments. THe first one was off particular on the red panel. If the panel alignment is off, the picture will not be as sharp. THe second unit I had was only slightly off but the minor adjustment on a couple of places did improve the overall sharpness.
 

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Hi folks. I'm new to the world of projectors and started out with the DLA-NX5. After reading a bit about ceiling mounts, it seemed like I was limited to the Chief, Peerless or Strong. I ended up going with the Strong as I was installing and adjusting it myself and the fine adjustment knobs seemed super easy. To anyone with this mount (that is, the SM-PROJ-XL), I have it mounted into a joist with two lag screws and I'm not concerned about the ceiling plate's sturdiness, but I'm a little concerned about the strength of the arms of the projector plate. It seemed pretty sturdy when I screwed it in, but the arms are extended out as far as they can go and now that it's supporting the full 43 lbs of the projector, it seems only the tips of the arms are still touching the projector. Is it normal that the main plate be lifted up off the projector by a bit?

Man, I would hate to have an arm fail or a screw break and this whole thing come down.
This post made me question what I have on order with my local dealer. I have an NX5 and the SM-PROJ-L on order. I selected this mount because the distance to the ceiling was shorter than the SM-PROJ-XL (my ceiling height is 96"). Upon checking the specs it mentions that the maximum hole spread is 16-7/8" and to check that it's compatible with JVC projectors. Does anyone know what the maximum mounting hole configuration of the NX5 is? Will this mount fit the NX5 or do I need order a different mount?

Thank you for the input!
 

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Wanted to know if the NX7 will work on an Elite Screen 150" 16:9 Cinegrey 3D?
I already have that screen and planning on upgrading to the NX7

. I've had it for 3 years on an Epson 5040 and 100% content with using it along with my Epson 5040

Would appreciated any advice if it works with it


Thanks
I used the 135" 16:9 Cinegrey 3D screen with NX7 for an year. The Combination looked great and definitely recommend if you are on budget.
As per ChadB the actual gain is about 0.9.
Eventually upgraded to ST130 G4 as I wanted bigger screen 160" when I built the dedicated room.
 

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For those who have run AutoCal did it result in any noticeable difference? Either good or bad. :) I presume I can always restore the original settings (init file) however I'm wondering in practice what benefits you typically see. If I restore the settings I presume I'll be undoing everything I had previously saved regardless of the number of times I ran it with various settings.
I would strongly recommend doing Autocal. I'm relatively new to projectors but am fairly tech savvy and incredibly facile with computers. Initially, I wondered if it would be worth it as I was enjoying the stock image. I also wasn't sure I wanted to shell out for more than just the SpyderX and there have been plenty of people here on this forum and elsewhere talking about how you should only use the SpyderX for Gamma and not color.

What ultimately changed my mind was watching SirMaster's youtube video on AutoCal. I'd found that my experience basically agreed with his assessments 100% when reading his forum posts so I elected to trust his opinion on the Autocal with SpyderX only and just give it a go. The results are dramatic. As has been well documented, there is far too little red in the stock calibration, particularly in high lamp. It's fairly easy to A/B it once calibrated by changing manual iris settings (I use the DI normally) and once you see how different skin tones look post-calibration, it's hard to unsee.

My recommendation is to save the $$$ and just get a Spyder X if you're on the fence. It's very easy to use and the results speak for themselves.
 

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JVC NX5 at 140", Denon X4200W (5.1.2) with Axiom Audio speakers + Bass Shakers
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I would strongly recommend doing Autocal. I'm relatively new to projectors but am fairly tech savvy and incredibly facile with computers. Initially, I wondered if it would be worth it as I was enjoying the stock image. I also wasn't sure I wanted to shell out for more than just the SpyderX and there have been plenty of people here on this forum and elsewhere talking about how you should only use the SpyderX for Gamma and not color.

What ultimately changed my mind was watching SirMaster's youtube video on AutoCal. I'd found that my experience basically agreed with his assessments 100% when reading his forum posts so I elected to trust his opinion on the Autocal with SpyderX only and just give it a go. The results are dramatic. As has been well documented, there is far too little red in the stock calibration, particularly in high lamp. It's fairly easy to A/B it once calibrated by changing manual iris settings (I use the DI normally) and once you see how different skin tones look post-calibration, it's hard to unsee.

My recommendation is to save the $$$ and just get a Spyder X if you're on the fence. It's very easy to use and the results speak for themselves.
Yeah I have used a few SpyderX and compared them to the two i1 Pro 2 I have. They have always been quite close in my experience.

Can you get a bad SpyderX? Sure it's possible, but it's the exception in my experience, not the rule. The SpyderX are much better than the Spyder5 in terms of color accuracy.

I would run both Gamma and Color with the SpyderX, and then toggle your iris manually between the cut-off points to see the before/after color calibration results in various scenes and decide if you like what it's doing.

If you don't, then revert the calibration and stick with gamma only.

Of course you can add an i1 Pro to your tools if you want to go deeper.
 

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I got burned when I bought an i1Pro 2. I paid $1,200 for it at Amazon and found when I picked it up at an Amazon ship center that it was someone else's return. Sent it back through that same ship center for a refund, they lost it, and I had to chase Amazon for two months to get my money back. (It helped that the manager of the ship center remembered me and vouched for me with them.)

Then I learned about the EFI ES-2000 being the same device and found one used at eBay for less than $300 - not much more than I paid for the Spyder X new.

A few tips on the i1Pro/EFI:

1) If you don't get a software disk because you're buying it used, its driver software can be downloaded for free at the XRite website - go to the Support section and grab the program to calibrate the probe - it installs the probe's Windows driver as part of its own installation. (By contrast, you should avoid installing any of the Spyder X's supplied software, which can block Autocal, which uses a driver for the Spyder X that's built into Windows.)

2) Each time you use the i1Pro/EFI, it needs to calibrate itself by first being seated on its calibration plate, a tiny white piece of porcelan under a protective slide in one of the frames that you can sit the probe into. (You may have to squeeze a recessed button under a rubber grip on the side of the probe to start this self-calibration.)

3) The probe does not have a threaded tripod socket, so you should get a cellphone "selfie" tripod mount for it for about $10. Because the probe's teardrop shape only lets the mount's clips touch it at one point on each side, I found it most stable to put it into the mount sideways since the front and back of the probe are flat and parallel.
 
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