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JVC NX5 at 140", Denon X4200W (5.1.2) with Axiom Audio speakers + Bass Shakers
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How about writing us a full tutorial for running autocal with the Spyder X for those of us who are a bit timid to do it for the first time? ;)
Well, for written instructions we have already had that by Manni on the other forum that covers everything you could ever need or want to know about autocal.
 

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One critique I'd make of the video is it is not totally clear which tables the calibration applies to. The variables that have different tables are
Lamp, high vs. low
Color filter, on vs. off
And various ranges on how open/closed the MANUAL Iris is in increments of 4

The DI is not taken into account, only the manual iris setting. This is why if you only calibrate the color table for Manual Iris setting of 0 and post calibration switch from -3 to -4, you'll see quite easily what the change in the color calibration is doing.
I tried that with the spyder x and for gamma and colour it didn't turn out.the picture got duller and red's were to red. So I just use the spyder x for gamma and the EFI ES-2000 Spectrophotometer for colour. And I got my brightness back with more pop and the red's look spot on now.
 

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JVC NX7 Projector, Draper 132" (2.35:1) Techvision XT 1300x, Panasonic DP-UB420, Zidoo Z9x, Zappit
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You can't just have a box with an opening at the back and a hole in the front for the lens. That is a good way to cook your projector. The box needs to have fans forcing cool air in and fans pulling hot air out. If you just have fans pulling hot air out, the air will travel the path of least resistance. Meaning the exhaust fans would pull air into the box from the nearest hole, which would be the hole for the lens. You also want an alarm for high temperatures, incase something goes wrong, like a fan dies.
It's interesting reading a discussion about a "Hush Box". When I purchased my first projector long ago (Davis DLP), a Hush Box was an absolute MUST. The things were seriously noisy and put out a lot of heat. I purchased a Hush Box from a gentleman from the east coast. It was made out of plexiglass and the front panel was custom cut (for the lens opening) based upon the specific projector. Inside the box were whisper fans and ducting to move hot air out of the box and keep the projector in normal operating temps. In my case, the builder used reflective mylar on the sides of the box. That made the sides reflect the ceiling and significantly reduced the perceived presence of this box. If I recall correctly, the box was affixed to the ceiling with bolts. It worked very well to "tame the beast".
 

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Then what about making some soundproofing just the projector without touching either air inlet or outlet? Possible? Will that drop some decibels? Thanks!
Yes, you can do that, but not sure how much quieter it would be. If you build a hush box that has fans at the back and the fans have the capability to bing in as many CFM as the projector can use and also have exhaust fans that can do the same, then you are good to go. I would want an alarm system, so you know the temperature is maintained correctly in the box. Here is one I helped a customer design, last month, for his RS3000.
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Yes, you can do that, but not sure how much quieter it would be. If you build a hush box that has fans at the back and the fans have the capability to bing in as many CFM as the projector can use and also have exhaust fans that can do the same, then you are good to go. I would want an alarm system, so you know the temperature is maintained correctly in the box. Here is one I helped a customer design, last month, for his RS3000.
I built something similar but eventually tore it down. The fans that are used to move air in and out of the hush box made as much noise as the projector fan. On top of that they developed a bit of an oscillation tone that would go up and down in frequency due to the use of multiple fans that sort of interacted with one another. It drove me crazy over time.

So I tore the whole thing down and went back to the normal chief mount. The projector still makes noise but it seems livable because it is lower frequency and doesn't oscillate. I also added more sound damping foam and baffles to the ceiling and surrounding walls, (I have a pitched ceiling) which reduced the reflected sound and quieted down the fan noise.
 

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I'm beginning to think that the reason that I don't experience problems with fan noise, even though I run my RS1000 on high all the time and sit only a few feet away from it, may be because I didn't mount the projector up near the ceiling, which can reflect the sound back down, or near a rear wall that can reflect it forwards. Instead it's three feet down from the ceiling and a third of the way forward of the rear wall on a wireframe shelf (like the ones used in bakeries, but painted flat black).

In fact, more may be involved than just distance. It's possible that a ceiling mount may physically transmit the projector's vibration up to the ceiling, turning the ceiling into a resonator.

I set my JVC up this way because it was easy. Putting it atop the wireframe shelving that holds all the electronics saved the work of installing a ceiling mount and let me use standard 6' HDMI cables throughout - and it may be that by doing so I inadvertently dodged a bullet in terms of projector noise. I sit about three feet in front of and about two feet below the projector and have never found it annoyingly loud - and I have fairly good high frequency hearing.
 
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Im not sure what to input into the Theater Optimizer in my situation. I have a 130in wide Stewart Studiotec 130 G4, perforated, 2.4:1 with anamorphic lens. I understand that the aspect ratio, the perforation, and the lens will require setting TO up with parameters other than the actual sizes, but I am not sure how they all interact. If this has already been covered, perhaps a link the the right thread to make the calculation would help me as I haven't been able to find it. Thanks in advance. I had posted this in the display calibration section but then thought I might get more of a response in this thread

Christian
 

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Im not sure what to input into the Theater Optimizer in my situation. I have a 130in wide Stewart Studiotec 130 G4, perforated, 2.4:1 with anamorphic lens. I understand that the aspect ratio, the perforation, and the lens will require setting TO up with parameters other than the actual sizes, but I am not sure how they all interact. If this has already been covered, perhaps a link the the right thread to make the calculation would help me as I haven't been able to find it. Thanks in advance. I had posted this in the display calibration section but then thought I might get more of a response in this thread

Christian
Sent you an email.
 

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Yeah I have used a few SpyderX and compared them to the two i1 Pro 2 I have. They have always been quite close in my experience.

Can you get a bad SpyderX? Sure it's possible, but it's the exception in my experience, not the rule. The SpyderX are much better than the Spyder5 in terms of color accuracy.

I would run both Gamma and Color with the SpyderX, and then toggle your iris manually between the cut-off points to see the before/after color calibration results in various scenes and decide if you like what it's doing.

If you don't, then revert the calibration and stick with gamma only.

Of course you can add an i1 Pro to your tools if you want to go deeper.
Hi, I used the previous autocal with a spyder 5 on an x7900 but I now have an N5. Presumably I need to download different JVC autocal software ?.
Also I only use low lamp for everything and manual iris -9 for SDR and -1 to 0 for HDR and 3D, would I need to run autocal for both of those iris settings as im not sure what the iris cutoff points are etc ?.

thanks for any help.
 
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Hi, I used the previous autocal with a spyder 5 on an x7900 but I now have an N5. Presumably I need to download different JVC autocal software ?.
Also I only use low lamp for everything and manual iris -9 for SDR and -1 to 0 for HDR and 3D, would I need to run autocal for both of those iris settings as im not sure what the iris cutoff points are etc ?.

thanks for any help.
Unfortunately the Spyder5 only works up to v3.10 of the NX firmwares.

If you are on v3.50 you will have to use a hacked DLL for autocal that can still allow you use the Spyder5.

See this thread for information on that:

The iris calibration ranges are 0 to -3, -4 to -7, -8 to -11, and -12 to -15. Iris position only affects color autocal, so you can do 1 gamma autocal and 2 color autocals.

Just do the gamma autocal in iris position 0, and your color autocals in the actual iris position that you use.
 

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Unfortunately the Spyder5 only works up to v3.10 of the NX firmwares.

If you are on v3.50 you will have to use a hacked DLL for autocal that can still allow you use the Spyder5.

See this thread for information on that:

The iris calibration ranges are 0 to -3, -4 to -7, -8 to -11, and -12 to -15. Iris position only affects color autocal, so you can do 1 gamma autocal and 2 color autocals.

Just do the gamma autocal in iris position 0, and your color autocals in the actual iris position that you use.
Thanks for that, yes sorry I meant to say I need the spyder X, had it in my Amazon basket then it went up to £149 so I again hesitated, now it’s £159 lol.

so it’s advised to run gamma only with iris wide open and that’s good for SDR, HDR and 3D ?.
 

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Thanks for that, yes sorry I meant to say I need the spyder X, had it in my Amazon basket then it went up to £149 so I again hesitated, now it’s £159 lol.

so it’s advised to run gamma only with iris wide open and that’s good for SDR, HDR and 3D ?.
Since gamma isn't really affected by the iris position and there is only 1 gamma calibration table for all iris positions it's fine to just run it in iris position 0.
 

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Thanks for that, yes sorry I meant to say I need the spyder X, had it in my Amazon basket then it went up to £149 so I again hesitated, now it’s £159 lol.

so it’s advised to run gamma only with iris wide open and that’s good for SDR, HDR and 3D ?.
Run gamma for each combination of lamp power (high, low) and color filter (wide, normal)...Iris position does not impact a gamma run, it does impact a color run however...
 
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I have a tripod that I mount my iDisplayPro to and a cell phone mount\holder I put my i1Pro2 in then mount to the tripod. Looking for a solution to have both up at the same time for when I profile the meter prior to autocal. Should I try to mount both to the same tripod (I do have a 3d printer to build something custom) or just pick up a second tripod and move them as close as possible? Figure some people here have this solved already =)
 

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So to all that are experiencing the iris stuck when using mode 1 or 2, I can confirm after loading firmware 3.5. I have been messing with my RS2000 for the weekend and it has become unwatchable. Tried to watch 1st man last night and the first part of the movie is quite dark. Then when things brighten up the picture was very dark. I have now had to switch Iris to manual. Switching between SDR and HDR made no difference to the picture. Seems stuck in a minus 12 position. I have cycled through full open to full closed and picture even at full open is very dark even on SDR content. I can hear the IRIS motor run but nothing happens to the picture?
 

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Have had my DLA-1000 for over a year but just started playing around more with HDR.

I'm finding that for videos on Netflix on my Roku Ultra I have either UHD or HDR available but not both. Same when running from my PC.

Disney-plus runs HDR and 4k fine from the Roku, but I'm guessing that's because the films are at 24fps vs 60fps. Note that ROKU reports display as 4K HDR10 at 60Hz HDCP 2.2.

Wondering if my PJ is working properly. I'm on HDMI 1. I already know that my HDMI 2 is defective as it will only allow 1920x1080 from any source.

Cable is a 18gpbs "certified" cable but I only have one I'm sure was advertised for that speed... so there could conceivably be an issue there. Have a second cable on order arriving tomorrow.
 

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Well, for written instructions we have already had that by Manni on the other forum that covers everything you could ever need or want to know about autocal.
The one thing that is not clear in any of the write-ups is proper meter positioning. The positioning greatly impacts reading and it would be nice to see in a picture what the optimal position is.
 

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The one thing that is not clear in any of the write-ups is proper meter positioning. The positioning greatly impacts reading and it would be nice to see in a picture what the optimal position is.
Yes I would also like to see the angle of the spyder x from someone that had a good calibration for gamma and colour.
 

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When i got my RS1000 i was surprised how difficult it was to find a ceiling mount for the RS1000 / NX5 due to the weight and dimensions - a problem i did not expect since projectors of this size are so widely available. So i wanted to share what i finally was recommended by one hi-fi dealer in Finland and ended up buying and being happy with

I got the BT899XL from B-tech, its a simple design but works very well. Cost was only around 140€.

Not sure how widely this is available, but since i found a supplier from Finland, i assume this can be found around the globe.

Official page:

Some pictures:
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3083566
 

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I'm beginning to think that the reason that I don't experience problems with fan noise, even though I run my RS1000 on high all the time and sit only a few feet away from it, may be because I didn't mount the projector up near the ceiling, which can reflect the sound back down, or near a rear wall that can reflect it forwards. Instead it's three feet down from the ceiling and a third of the way forward of the rear wall on a wireframe shelf (like the ones used in bakeries, but painted flat black).

In fact, more may be involved than just distance. It's possible that a ceiling mount may physically transmit the projector's vibration up to the ceiling, turning the ceiling into a resonator.

I set my JVC up this way because it was easy. Putting it atop the wireframe shelving that holds all the electronics saved the work of installing a ceiling mount and let me use standard 6' HDMI cables throughout - and it may be that by doing so I inadvertently dodged a bullet in terms of projector noise. I sit about three feet in front of and about two feet below the projector and have never found it annoyingly loud - and I have fairly good high frequency hearing.
I would love to see you measure how loud yours is when measured using iphone app directly in front of the front vents on both high and low modes :)
 
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