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I think this is worth a reference for those who can't get AutoCal to run because of the sensor (SpyderX) not being detected. Here is one solution...
 

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For those watching DIRECTV 4k programing(particularly live sports), do you have any recommended JVC picture settings for the HLG signal DIRECTV uses? I recently from cable and the 4K picture is too dark. Directv uses HDR HLG format as they changed from HDR10 which explains this issue.
 

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The one thing that is not clear in any of the write-ups is proper meter positioning. The positioning greatly impacts reading and it would be nice to see in a picture what the optimal position is.
Yes I would also like to see the angle of the spyder x from someone that had a good calibration for gamma and colour.
I don't know how much this helps but I just did a Autocal with really good results last week. Prior to Autocal I needed to profile my meter, so I did all my HCFR stuff first, but you can take just this part of my profiling run and I think it will help you setup. As part of setting up my profiling run, I have to get the meters pointed at the same spot, which is also center screen and get the best reading. I ran a 1% sized 100IRE window pattern in HCFR (at the advice of Dominic Chan) and tuned the meter via that super tiny window to get the best reading\highest ftl for that spot. When I was done I left my meter in that exact spot for Autocal. Distance wise I am probably somewhere 1-2ft off the screen mainly due to obstruction of the feet of my meter, which is outside the 1ft recommended in the text, but the meter showed as being in the orange box inside Autocal itself. My Autocal for SDR required no adjustment in HCFR afterwards and my Autocal for MadVR only required around a 2pt negative in blue and 1 in red, which was pretty close.
 

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I ran JVC's Autocal last October, using a Spyder X for gamma and for color an ESI EF-2000 (the budget OEM version of the XRite i1Pro2 - it's the same piece of hardware, it even has the XRite logo on its bottom - it's just not licensed for some XRite software that JVC's Autocal doesn't use).

I found that the Autocal calibration resulted in richer colors because the stock setting's color was a little too cool (not enough red).
I finally got my SpyderX working and ran it for both Gamma & Color. I noticed the same "richness" (similar to adjusting the color setting upwards). Looking at skin tones I first thought there might be too much red (influenced by the various reports here) however looking at "faces" among various movies I found it only enhanced what was there to start with... as in adding richness not altering the (I'm guessing intended) color.

It did dim the image to some degree although what I noticed most was the added depth. Like before the contrast setting was too high and washing out the image. IRIS 0 to -3 appear darker than -4 and has the increased depth. Perhaps the added depth is Gamma related? For lack of a better explanation objects appeared more solid like a "white" filter has been removed.

Just my take without any numbers to back it up...
 
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Have had my DLA-1000 for over a year but just started playing around more with HDR.

I'm finding that for videos on Netflix on my Roku Ultra I have either UHD or HDR available but not both. Same when running from my PC.

Disney-plus runs HDR and 4k fine from the Roku, but I'm guessing that's because the films are at 24fps vs 60fps. Note that ROKU reports display as 4K HDR10 at 60Hz HDCP 2.2.

Wondering if my PJ is working properly. I'm on HDMI 1. I already know that my HDMI 2 is defective as it will only allow 1920x1080 from any source.

Cable is a 18gpbs "certified" cable but I only have one I'm sure was advertised for that speed... so there could conceivably be an issue there. Have a second cable on order arriving tomorrow.
When it lists only UHD, that is 4K SDR material. When it lists HDR, that is 4K HDR material.
 

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The one thing that is not clear in any of the write-ups is proper meter positioning. The positioning greatly impacts reading and it would be nice to see in a picture what the optimal position is.
For me, I get great results with the Spyder at about 1/3 the height of the screen pointing up at 30 degrees about 12 inches from the screen.
 

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I would love to see you measure how loud yours is when measured using iphone app directly in front of the front vents on both high and low modes :)
1) Measured how many inches away from the vent? Remember the inverse square law, which says that when you move twice as far away, radiant energy (whether sound, light, or radio) drops to one-quarter as strong. Three times as far away, it's one-ninth as strong. Ten times as far away it's one one-hundredth as strong. The fan's sound measured at 2" would thus be 466.56 times as loud than at my seating position about 3.6 feet away!

2) I don't use an iPhone but an Android, and I have no idea how standardized and comparable the numbers from such apps are - particularly given the variations in hardware. I suspect these apps are most useful for comparisons made using the same phone.

3) This also doesn't take into account reflected sound from the ceiling and rear wall, and

4) It also doesn't take into account the potential resonator effect of directly coupling the projector's frame to the ceiling.

When I was rebuilding my theater in the fall of 2019, I heard an annoying hum from overhead whenever the recessed LED lights in the ceiling were dimmed all the way off. The hum turned out to be coming from the LED lights' power bricks, which were sitting on top of the drywall ceiling and making the whole ceiling hum. I banished that noise by hanging the power bricks from 2x4s above the ceiling so they didn't touch the ceiling and couldn't make it resonate.
 

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Any word on adding laser housing upgrades to the NX line of JVC's?

🤞
 

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Question on using the RS2000 and OPPO 205. when playing a Dolby Vision Disc, do you set the oppo‘s option for the Player to output Dolby Vision or the Source? I know the pj doesn’t do Dolby vision but I just want to know where to set this particular option for the best playback.
 

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When it lists only UHD, that is 4K SDR material. When it lists HDR, that is 4K HDR material.
Aha! Thanks Mike. That would never have occurred to me as my Vizio TV Netflix app does say both UHD and HDR at the same time. But I confirmed on my PC that HDR does in fact run at 4k.
 

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I finally got my SpyderX working and ran it for both Gamma & Color. I noticed the same "richness" (similar to adjusting the color setting upwards). Looking at skin tones I first thought there might be too much red (influenced by the various reports here) however looking at "faces" among various movies I found it only enhanced what was there to start with... as in adding richness not altering the (I'm guessing intended) color.

It did dim the image to some degree although what I noticed most was the added depth. Like before the contrast setting was too high and washing out the image. IRIS 0 to -3 appear darker than -4 and has the increased depth. Perhaps the added depth is Gamma related? For lack of a better explanation objects appeared more solid like a "white" filter has been removed.

Just my take without any numbers to back it up...
When using spider autocal, i suspect the color temp is always towards more warm (red) unlike when using es2000 meter whereby the color temp is spot on n more accurate.
 

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When using spider autocal, i suspect the color temp is always towards more warm (red) unlike when using es2000 meter whereby the color temp is spot on n more accurate.
Last two posts I saw (with actual numbers) this wasn't the case as red was spot on so I think it's hard to make a blanket statement. I do think without numbers we are "easily" influenced by what we read and tend to see exactly what we expect to see.

In my case I had read too much red and a dimmer image which is exactly what I initially saw. However checking a half dozen (or so) skin tones I didn't see too much red rather all of the colors had a greater "saturation" Regarding the dimmer image it was dimmer but had much more depth. So all and all going from why bother since the SpyderX isn't accurate to getting richer colors and additional image depth I don't think it should be dismissed. Worse case you can restore the factory settings...
 

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JVC NX5 at 140", Denon X4200W (5.1.2) with Axiom Audio speakers + Bass Shakers
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Last two posts I saw (with actual numbers) this wasn't the case as red was spot on so I think it's hard to make a blanket statement. I do think without numbers we are "easily" influenced by what we read and tend to see exactly what we expect to see.

In my case I had read too much red and a dimmer image which is exactly what I initially saw. However checking a half dozen (or so) skin tones I didn't see too much red rather all of the colors had a greater "saturation" Regarding the dimmer image it was dimmer but had much more depth. So all and all going from why bother since the SpyderX isn't accurate to getting richer colors and additional image depth I don't think it should be dismissed. Worse case you can restore the factory settings...
Of the 4 NX5, 2 NX7, and 2 NX9 that I have calibrated, all were very short on red according to both i1 Pro 2 that I have.
 

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Of the 4 NX5, 2 NX7, and 2 NX9 that I have calibrated, all were very short on red according to both i1 Pro 2 that I have.
I believe Kris Deering posted that this lineup is generally red deficient. Mine certainly is. I tried calibrating with the Spyder X and found it pushed red too much no matter where I positioned it. Got an i1 Pro off Ebay and the colors look great now (though I haven't dug into see what it reads in calibration software). Calibrated all the iris modes for color in both HDR (filter) and SDR. Guessing the Spyder X is just the luck of the draw.
 

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Hi all, there is lot of good information in this thread. I'm working on my theater setup. For my projector, I started exploring Epson 5040 & 5050UB and finally decided to get JVC-NX5. my room size is 12' W x 31' L x 8' H. the primary seating position will be approx 16 - 17' from the screen. The maximum throw distance I can have is 13' 8" due to HVAC soffit. I am planning for a scope screen (2.35:1 or 2:40:1). what could be the maximum screen size I can accommodate? Since, I have speakers behind the screen, I would like to have minimum 138" screen (diagonal) size. Let me know if it is possible with NX5.

BTW, It is very hard to find JVC-NX5 in-stock. Did anyone received one recently?
 

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Hi all, there is lot of good information in this thread. I'm working on my theater setup. For my projector, I started exploring Epson 5040 & 5050UB and finally decided to get JVC-NX5. my room size is 12' W x 31' L x 8' H. the primary seating position will be approx 16 - 17' from the screen. The maximum throw distance I can have is 13' 8" due to HVAC soffit. I am planning for a scope screen (2.35:1 or 2:40:1). what could be the maximum screen size I can accommodate? Since, I have speakers behind the screen, I would like to have minimum 138" screen (diagonal) size. Let me know if it is possible with NX5.

BTW, It is very hard to find JVC-NX5 in-stock. Did anyone received one recently?
According to the JVC calculator you can be as close as 13' 4" using the full 17:9 panel with a 138" 2.35:1 screen. So you should just make it (I'd mount at 13' 8" to give a little wiggle room).
 
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