Joined
·
13,031 Posts
I think this is worth a reference for those who can't get AutoCal to run because of the sensor (SpyderX) not being detected. Here is one solution...
The one thing that is not clear in any of the write-ups is proper meter positioning. The positioning greatly impacts reading and it would be nice to see in a picture what the optimal position is.
I don't know how much this helps but I just did a Autocal with really good results last week. Prior to Autocal I needed to profile my meter, so I did all my HCFR stuff first, but you can take just this part of my profiling run and I think it will help you setup. As part of setting up my profiling run, I have to get the meters pointed at the same spot, which is also center screen and get the best reading. I ran a 1% sized 100IRE window pattern in HCFR (at the advice of Dominic Chan) and tuned the meter via that super tiny window to get the best reading\highest ftl for that spot. When I was done I left my meter in that exact spot for Autocal. Distance wise I am probably somewhere 1-2ft off the screen mainly due to obstruction of the feet of my meter, which is outside the 1ft recommended in the text, but the meter showed as being in the orange box inside Autocal itself. My Autocal for SDR required no adjustment in HCFR afterwards and my Autocal for MadVR only required around a 2pt negative in blue and 1 in red, which was pretty close.Yes I would also like to see the angle of the spyder x from someone that had a good calibration for gamma and colour.
I finally got my SpyderX working and ran it for both Gamma & Color. I noticed the same "richness" (similar to adjusting the color setting upwards). Looking at skin tones I first thought there might be too much red (influenced by the various reports here) however looking at "faces" among various movies I found it only enhanced what was there to start with... as in adding richness not altering the (I'm guessing intended) color.I ran JVC's Autocal last October, using a Spyder X for gamma and for color an ESI EF-2000 (the budget OEM version of the XRite i1Pro2 - it's the same piece of hardware, it even has the XRite logo on its bottom - it's just not licensed for some XRite software that JVC's Autocal doesn't use).
I found that the Autocal calibration resulted in richer colors because the stock setting's color was a little too cool (not enough red).
Could you post a link to this or point me in the direction of the other forum?Well, for written instructions we have already had that by Manni on the other forum that covers everything you could ever need or want to know about autocal.
When it lists only UHD, that is 4K SDR material. When it lists HDR, that is 4K HDR material.Have had my DLA-1000 for over a year but just started playing around more with HDR.
I'm finding that for videos on Netflix on my Roku Ultra I have either UHD or HDR available but not both. Same when running from my PC.
Disney-plus runs HDR and 4k fine from the Roku, but I'm guessing that's because the films are at 24fps vs 60fps. Note that ROKU reports display as 4K HDR10 at 60Hz HDCP 2.2.
Wondering if my PJ is working properly. I'm on HDMI 1. I already know that my HDMI 2 is defective as it will only allow 1920x1080 from any source.
Cable is a 18gpbs "certified" cable but I only have one I'm sure was advertised for that speed... so there could conceivably be an issue there. Have a second cable on order arriving tomorrow.
For me, I get great results with the Spyder at about 1/3 the height of the screen pointing up at 30 degrees about 12 inches from the screen.The one thing that is not clear in any of the write-ups is proper meter positioning. The positioning greatly impacts reading and it would be nice to see in a picture what the optimal position is.
Super cool product I can imagine would be beneficial in a HT room. But at $200/liter and limited availability is a turn off for me.Wow, the blackest paint in the world
1) Measured how many inches away from the vent? Remember the inverse square law, which says that when you move twice as far away, radiant energy (whether sound, light, or radio) drops to one-quarter as strong. Three times as far away, it's one-ninth as strong. Ten times as far away it's one one-hundredth as strong. The fan's sound measured at 2" would thus be 466.56 times as loud than at my seating position about 3.6 feet away!I would love to see you measure how loud yours is when measured using iphone app directly in front of the front vents on both high and low modes![]()
Aha! Thanks Mike. That would never have occurred to me as my Vizio TV Netflix app does say both UHD and HDR at the same time. But I confirmed on my PC that HDR does in fact run at 4k.When it lists only UHD, that is 4K SDR material. When it lists HDR, that is 4K HDR material.
No. Doubtful that will happen this year.Any word on adding laser housing upgrades to the NX line of JVC's?
![]()
When using spider autocal, i suspect the color temp is always towards more warm (red) unlike when using es2000 meter whereby the color temp is spot on n more accurate.I finally got my SpyderX working and ran it for both Gamma & Color. I noticed the same "richness" (similar to adjusting the color setting upwards). Looking at skin tones I first thought there might be too much red (influenced by the various reports here) however looking at "faces" among various movies I found it only enhanced what was there to start with... as in adding richness not altering the (I'm guessing intended) color.
It did dim the image to some degree although what I noticed most was the added depth. Like before the contrast setting was too high and washing out the image. IRIS 0 to -3 appear darker than -4 and has the increased depth. Perhaps the added depth is Gamma related? For lack of a better explanation objects appeared more solid like a "white" filter has been removed.
Just my take without any numbers to back it up...
Last two posts I saw (with actual numbers) this wasn't the case as red was spot on so I think it's hard to make a blanket statement. I do think without numbers we are "easily" influenced by what we read and tend to see exactly what we expect to see.When using spider autocal, i suspect the color temp is always towards more warm (red) unlike when using es2000 meter whereby the color temp is spot on n more accurate.
Of the 4 NX5, 2 NX7, and 2 NX9 that I have calibrated, all were very short on red according to both i1 Pro 2 that I have.Last two posts I saw (with actual numbers) this wasn't the case as red was spot on so I think it's hard to make a blanket statement. I do think without numbers we are "easily" influenced by what we read and tend to see exactly what we expect to see.
In my case I had read too much red and a dimmer image which is exactly what I initially saw. However checking a half dozen (or so) skin tones I didn't see too much red rather all of the colors had a greater "saturation" Regarding the dimmer image it was dimmer but had much more depth. So all and all going from why bother since the SpyderX isn't accurate to getting richer colors and additional image depth I don't think it should be dismissed. Worse case you can restore the factory settings...
I believe Kris Deering posted that this lineup is generally red deficient. Mine certainly is. I tried calibrating with the Spyder X and found it pushed red too much no matter where I positioned it. Got an i1 Pro off Ebay and the colors look great now (though I haven't dug into see what it reads in calibration software). Calibrated all the iris modes for color in both HDR (filter) and SDR. Guessing the Spyder X is just the luck of the draw.Of the 4 NX5, 2 NX7, and 2 NX9 that I have calibrated, all were very short on red according to both i1 Pro 2 that I have.
According to the JVC calculator you can be as close as 13' 4" using the full 17:9 panel with a 138" 2.35:1 screen. So you should just make it (I'd mount at 13' 8" to give a little wiggle room).Hi all, there is lot of good information in this thread. I'm working on my theater setup. For my projector, I started exploring Epson 5040 & 5050UB and finally decided to get JVC-NX5. my room size is 12' W x 31' L x 8' H. the primary seating position will be approx 16 - 17' from the screen. The maximum throw distance I can have is 13' 8" due to HVAC soffit. I am planning for a scope screen (2.35:1 or 2:40:1). what could be the maximum screen size I can accommodate? Since, I have speakers behind the screen, I would like to have minimum 138" screen (diagonal) size. Let me know if it is possible with NX5.
BTW, It is very hard to find JVC-NX5 in-stock. Did anyone received one recently?