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So the serial number 064400XX is a Jan Manufacture date. Mine shipped today and has the same 064400XX
Same batch as you...Mine performed flawlessly out of the box! I bet yours will too. I did a calibration using the JVC autocal s/w and all the primaries and secondaries (colors) are spot. DI is silent as well.
 

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My prediction is that the NX9 and N7 are extremely close in comparison and performance and one just expects a lot more out of an NX9 due to the price difference.
Interesting! When I used that very same argument for the Sony 760 vs the 870 I was told by many that the lens was way, way better and that the difference was night and day...… ;)
There will be many rationalising the extra cost in their minds and self justifying.... ;):rolleyes:

Stands to reason the differences will be minimal unless you start scrutinising everything with a microscope. :)
 

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Over a million people live on the Queensland coast between the sunny coast and Cairns old mate but I guess we don't count compared to the cockroaches of Sydney
Makes noise like someone slapping the hindquarters of a horse...

Ouch... :)
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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Interesting! When I used that very same argument for the Sony 760 vs the 870 I was told by many that the lens was way, way better and that the difference was night and day...… ;)
There will be many rationalising the extra cost in their minds and self justifying.... ;):rolleyes:

Stands to reason the differences will be minimal unless you start scrutinising everything with a microscope. :)
LOL @ night and day. The difference between 1080p and 4K isn't even night and day. Honestly, you have to be so close to the screen to notice the difference in lens quality like this. My RS4500 is very sharp compared to either of my Sony's for example. But sitting on my chair even 7 feet away, it's still not night and day. I'm guessing the 870 is generally sharper. But there could be 760's out there that are just as sharp or 870's out there that are worse than some 760's in sharpness. I bet most that "night and day" BS comes from the focus reality creation enhancement.
 

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I've had a lot more time to play with the RS2000 lately and actually hooked up the RS600 as well to see if there really was a difference. Keep in mind this is subjective, I'll leave the others with much better equipment to give you the hard numbers.

1.) My original comment that HDR was much better holds. After clicking brightness down to -3 and turning auto-tone mapping to -1, the picture has gotten significantly better from a gamma standpoint.
2.) On SDR content, after running calibration and calibrating brightness/contrast I no longer notice a difference in black level. The iris on the RS2000 seems to be much more aggressive than the RS600 as well. I had forgot and left dynamic iris in Auto 1 while playing a game with the kids (super smash brothers) and during the loading screen the image is completely black, except for a Grey Smash logo in the bottom right. On the RS2000 the iris closes farther to the point of the black level blending into the velvet frame. When the character select screen opens the entire picture is almost white until the iris adjusts. Trying the same thing on the RS600 it doesn't get as dark.
3.) I watched Harry Potter 1 in both HDR via the UHD and the Blu-Ray SDR, there's a lot of dark scenes, especially in the castle and the gamma can get a bit off. I couldn't tell the difference between each picture gamma and black level wise on the SDR copy. HDR copy popped a lot more on the RS2000 and you can make out a lot more detail. It's too bad the movies after the 1st two are fake 4k.

I think the initial difference I was seeing in black level comes down to the bulb being brighter, brightness being a titch off and my RS600 bulb having 600-700 hours on it.

You can probably see more of a difference if you have a perfectly setup room; however, my room is blue not completely bat cave.

There's also a certain convenience that the RS2000 has fixed. MADVR is great, I have a Fury as well to strip out HDR for the RS600 before MADVR. It's nice to just click on the movie and start it rather than having to go through a bunch of hoops.

I still think the RS2000 is the projector to buy, the RS3000 may offer a bit more in terms of lens; however, I'd wait until Gen 2 or Gen 3 and pick up the additional contrast and bug fixes. The RS2000 is a good carry over until then.
 

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I've had a lot more time to play with the RS2000 lately and actually hooked up the RS600 as well to see if there really was a difference. Keep in mind this is subjective, I'll leave the others with much better equipment to give you the hard numbers.

1.) My original comment that HDR was much better holds. After clicking brightness down to -3 and turning auto-tone mapping to -1, the picture has gotten significantly better from a gamma standpoint.

I still think the RS2000 is the projector to buy, the RS3000 may offer a bit more in terms of lens; however, I'd wait until Gen 2 or Gen 3 and pick up the additional contrast and bug fixes. The RS2000 is a good carry over until then.

I've seen a few people talking about lowering the brightness in HDR. Could you just put the color filter in place instead? If, as Arrow's saying, the filter drops brightness 20%, maybe you can get the best of both worlds? I don't know what percentage of brightness is taken away with each click down.
 

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I've seen a few people talking about lowering the brightness in HDR. Could you just put the color filter in place instead? If, as Arrow's saying, the filter drops brightness 20%, maybe you can get the best of both worlds? I don't know what percentage of brightness is taken away with each click down.
The brightness control is really mis-labelled in displays - it is a black level control. They're using the brightness control to reduce the brightness of the very dark grey level, as it appears that the lower very dark grey levels are elevated excessively above digital black.

Putting the filter in place wouldn't help as it would dim both digital black and the lower very dark greys equally; the dark greys would still be too light for the now darker digital black.
 

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The brightness control is really mis-labelled in displays - it is a black level control. They're using the brightness control to reduce the brightness of the very dark grey level, as it appears that the lower very dark grey levels are elevated excessively above digital black.

Putting the filter in place wouldn't help as it would dim both digital black and the lower very dark greys equally; the dark greys would still be too light for the now darker digital black.
Correct, black looks grey in some HDR shots. I think that is because of the auto tone mapping which seems overly aggressive at stock.
 

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ABSOLUTE ULTIMATE AV
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Discussion Starter #4,771
I've seen a few people talking about lowering the brightness in HDR. Could you just put the color filter in place instead? If, as Arrow's saying, the filter drops brightness 20%, maybe you can get the best of both worlds? I don't know what percentage of brightness is taken away with each click down.
Not 20%... 25%

:wink:
 

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Australia is COLOSSAL in size. The flooding up in Townsville is a very small area way up north where barely anyone lives.
Over a million people live on the Queensland coast between the sunny coast and Cairns old mate but I guess we don't count compared to the cockroaches of Sydney
From where I come from it's really difficult to tell what's happening at times, the news is so sensationalized to get people to watch, accuracy doesn't seem to matter anymore, what's important are ratings and to get people to watch the sponsors.
That's why I posted this as well, to get some accurate feed back on this situation.
 

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So I finally installed my 130 inch XYscreens AT Soundmax screen, replacing a 106inch Elitescreen Cinegrey 5D.

I can finally experience the sharpness of the image that NX7 throws. With the Cinegrey, there were way too many artifacts / sparkles that the picture appeared blurred at times especially in high brightness scenes. Today I was able to see how 'clean' the image is.Watching Planet Earth 2 on Netflix, the image was breath taking.

One more thumbs up to NX7 ... but you need a good screen to really see what it can do!
Im using Cinewhite currently and waiting on my NX7. Are you saying I should definitely upgrade my screen? My seats are 13 and 17ft from 135in screen.
 

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Im using Cinewhite currently and waiting on my NX7. Are you saying I should definitely upgrade my screen? My seats are 13 and 17ft from 135in screen.
Are you seeing sparkles now? I had a Cinewhite 100" that I sat 10ft from and I could notice sparkles in any bright content, especially whites and solid colors. I upgraded to Studiotek 100 and its a pretty noticeable difference. Just taking a sample and putting it up on a bright spot on the screen was pretty noticeable, but my brightness was really high , I am not that far from the screen,and my room is velvet treated. If anything you can always order samples for free and take a look.
 

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ABSOLUTE ULTIMATE AV
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Discussion Starter #4,779
I don't understand how having the gamma set wrong would only affect the bottom 10% of the image. The upper 90% looks correct. I've included a picture of my screen displaying clouds in the lower half and a blue sky in the upper half. The entire bottom half should be white clouds but you can see in the picture that the bottom 10% is mostly blue. Note that even displaying the test patterns for focus, zoom, and shift the lines near the bottom are blue rather than white.
Well my JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 comes in VIOLET/PURPLE with a lovely undefeatable RED PUSH above black!



:frown:
 
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