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Thanks. I switched off Colorimetry and rec.709 content looks amazing now. But for HDR content, doesn't the bt.2020 filter cut down a lot of light ?


Only about 10%.


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The yellowing is not rare. It happens every time whenever the Auto DI closes down and is visible especially on white colored areas.

Many people don’t notice it and that’s fine. But for some of us that are sensitive to the color, we see it whenever the DI closes and there is white in the scene. So I just don’t use the Auto DI which is fine IMO as the native contrast is high enough on its own.


Have you tried using BT.2020 color profile for all content - for my setup I don’t see any yellow color shift when DI engages.

Agree that the native contrast is so good you don’t really ‘need’ the DI



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Have you tried using BT.2020 color profile for all content - for my setup I don’t see any yellow color shift when DI engages.

Agree that the native contrast is so good you don’t really ‘need’ the DI
I would assume there’s no such workaround for an RS1000? I personally don’t feel the native contrast is good enough, at least not on RS1000 but I keep the DI disabled because of the yellowing issue.
 

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Lifting a 43 lb box by yourself while standing on a ladder step and sliding it into a mount, holding with one hand while tightening the screws? I am in reasonably good shape but no superhero and would need another able bodied person to help me.
Getting another person to help you out makes it much easier.....

Looks like a forklift driver wasn't paying attention to my NX7! Took two months for this one and one month later I still don't have the replacement. Frustrating!
You did use it a little while you are waiting for the pickup of the damaged one right ? That's cosmetic damage only? You may be able to get a pretty penny off that unit ;)
 

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Factory reset from service menu will NOT erase custom gamma/color settings since they are stored in a different memory. At least on my N9 they are still there after a factory reset.
Careful here. If you do an Autocal and save the calibration it WILL NOT erase those settings and the results. BUT, if you LOAD a custom color profile (including the JVC color profiles designed to work with the Panasonic players) this WILL be erased with a factory reset.
 

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Careful here. If you do an Autocal and save the calibration it WILL NOT erase those settings and the results. BUT, if you LOAD a custom color profile (including the JVC color profiles designed to work with the Panasonic players) this WILL be erased with a factory reset.
Kris, Do you know what gamma the THX setting on the RS3000 is using? If I were to run a gamma only autocal on the THX setting what target should I be using? 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 ? Currently the menu just shows THX for gamma and I don't know what the actual curve is.
 

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Kris, Do you know what gamma the THX setting on the RS3000 is using? If I were to run a gamma only autocal on the THX setting what target should I be using? 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 ? Currently the menu just shows THX for gamma and I don't know what the actual curve is.
Hmm. Not sure exactly. I would imagine 1886, since it is the standard, but I could also see them using 2.2 because it fits a wider range of viewing environments. I would just run a gamma autocal on another picture mode and select that it applies to all. That should give you a baseline for all gamma presets for all picture modes using that lamp/iris configuration.
 

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I would assume there’s no such workaround for an RS1000? I personally don’t feel the native contrast is good enough, at least not on RS1000 but I keep the DI disabled because of the yellowing issue.


I don’t think so - when I use the HDR color profile the yellow DI tears it ugly head again.

But I haven’t seen NX5 personally to comment on whether the workaround applies or not

What is your room setup? Batcave with black velvet? On my NX7 the contrast is phenomenal and in terms of specs NX series is not that far apart. If you don’t have a batcave difficult to see the contrast these machines can deliver.
 
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I would give it 8 weeks before you look into it. So far there are no reports of MIR getting lost or miss handled yet.

I agree, sent my request on the 13th of May (bought from Cleveland Plasma 😀) and got my bulb 4 days ago. I’m in California though.
I received my bulb (middle of last week) about four weeks after mailing the paperwork.
 

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I experienced the issue in the photo at about 20 hours, but only once...until last night at the end of the movie we were watching at 103 hours and again this morning at 104 hours. Power cycling "solved" the issue long enough for us to finish the last 10 minutes of Avengers: Infinity War last night, but it showed up again 20 minutes into another movie this morning (Passengers--see photo). I was actually trying to see if the issue would occur again and it did.

I contacted my dealer to see how we proceed. He's all over it, but I'm wondering how JVC will approach this.
 

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I live in chicago also.
I am on chad b list to calibrate my nx9.
When was yours done. I did not get my 9 until April 1,
I should not say this, but i have had no issues.
The only thing i have done is set different aspect ratios,
I still have an OPPO 203.
Do you think it is worth switching to a panny 820 or 9000
I no longer have an anaphoric lens.
The picture out of the box hands down beat my Sony es600
Gerry
It was calibrated a couple months ago. I actually got on his list before I ordered the projector, and I only got on that tour as there was a last minute cancellation. He's a popular guy!
I have the 820 and it looks great. I'm still following Kris Deering's recomendation of using the optimizer and sending tone-mapped SDR to the JVC, and it looks great. I know others here have experimented with double-mapping, but this works well for me. Chad set up profiles and did not use the 820-JVC mapping profile. I didn't think the 9000 was worth the difference (my audio is not all separates). I agree that OOB it was very good, but after Chad it's even better!
 

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Just got an RS1000 loaded with 2.04. For a few days I've been troubleshooting a studdering / audio loss / frame drop issue which I have narrowed down to being caused by the RS1000 itself when the stream includes 4k+surround(5.1 or better). 4k/60 HDR with stereo works fine and 1080p with Atmos 7.1 works fine. I've tried a half dozen or so different cables and splitters and have even taken my receiver completely out of the equation, plugging two different Nvidia Shield directly into the JVC and see the issue with Netflix, Amazon, YouTube, and Kodi. Either Sheild with same HDMI up in my bedroom works perfectly with a Samsung 4k TV and cheap Pioneer AVR.

I'm really really hoping the 2.05 or 2.06 beta firmware might address this. Is there any way one of you could send me the firmware to try? Today is the last day of the holiday and it's been kind of ruined by this. Poor kids have sat idly by while I've been trying to solve this and I've already tore out my old Sony 1080p projector...

Any other suggestions?
 

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Just got an RS1000 loaded with 2.04. For a few days I've been troubleshooting a studdering / audio loss / frame drop issue which I have narrowed down to being caused by the RS1000 itself when the stream includes 4k+surround(5.1 or better). 4k/60 HDR with stereo works fine and 1080p with Atmos 7.1 works fine. I've tried a half dozen or so different cables and splitters and have even taken my receiver completely out of the equation, plugging two different Nvidia Shield directly into the JVC and see the issue with Netflix, Amazon, YouTube, and Kodi. Either Sheild with same HDMI up in my bedroom works perfectly with a Samsung 4k TV and cheap Pioneer AVR.

I'm really really hoping the 2.05 or 2.06 beta firmware might address this. Is there any way one of you could send me the firmware to try? Today is the last day of the holiday and it's been kind of ruined by this. Poor kids have sat idly by while I've been trying to solve this and I've already tore out my old Sony 1080p projector...

Any other suggestions?
Connect a 4K UHD player direct to the projector and see if you see the problem.
 

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Connect a 4K UHD player direct to the projector and see if you see the problem.
I do. I have tried this with both of my Nvidia Sheilds - they both show the problem when connected directly to the JVC. They both do not show the problem when connected to my Samsung 4k TV or my el cheapo Pioneer AVR.
 

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I'd try blowing out HDMI in the projector with a can of compressed air next. Also, what is your HDMI2 EDID set to, A or B? If that's set to B, that explains it all to me. If it's set to A, then it doesn't.

Air didn't work and I tried switching the EDID and neither did that. The local JVC rep will be coming over to take a look at it. If its nothing he can fit without de installing and repairing then at least he will see it not working and should speed up the process of getting a replacement sent out.
 

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On a good note. I got my free bulb. Literally only took over a week. Must be fast here is SOCAL. Now to just get my projector fully working and all is good.
 

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Air didn't work and I tried switching the EDID and neither did that. The local JVC rep will be coming over to take a look at it. If its nothing he can fit without de installing and repairing then at least he will see it not working and should speed up the process of getting a replacement sent out.


Well hope it’s resolved soon. Seems like a defective HDMI board. Given that no one else is having the issue and you have checked with several devices JVC should repair or exchange the product in short order.
 

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I do. I have tried this with both of my Nvidia Sheilds - they both show the problem when connected directly to the JVC. They both do not show the problem when connected to my Samsung 4k TV or my el cheapo Pioneer AVR.
Nvidia Shield is not a UHD player. Connect a UHD player direct to the JVC using a short certified high speed HDMI cable. Then see if you still have the problem.
 

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My set up has the JVC NX9 and Panasonic UB9000. I used one of the USER custom settings and selected PANA BL, High Lamp on the JVC. On the Panasonic I turned HDR OPTIMIZATION ON. Can someone with this same combo share what other settings on both the JVC and Panasonic that were found critical. I found the Sound & Vision review a little confusing.
 

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Nvidia Shield is not a UHD player. Connect a UHD player direct to the JVC using a short certified high speed HDMI cable. Then see if you still have the problem.
Not sure what you mean then. Shield supports 4k/60, HDR, BT2020... I'm interested in streaming 4k HDR Netflix with 5.1 audio (as well as Amazon, YouTube, Kodi) on the RS1000 like I do in my bedroom on my Samsung 4k TV. I don't own any other 4k players. To me UHD = 4k. Are you suggesting I buy a 4k Bluray player just for this test? Is that what you mean by UHD player?

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