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Hi guys,

Quick probably stupid question. After doing a whole pixel adjust on rs2000, do you have to leave the adjust setting to on for adjustments to be used or can the adjust setting be turned to off and whatever adjustments were made while adjust was on are used. Thanks

Ron
 

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Mostly in regards to sharpness? My understanding is that as far as light output and contrast your old projector and the NX-5 should be comparable?

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My RS400 was calibrated by CHADB so I feel he had it set to its limitations. I think the NX5 is brighter, sharper and has more contrast. I am on his schedule to this one done. Still out of the box this one is a BIG difference.
 

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Sharpness, processing, HDR - the RS1000 JVC brought over to demo in my theater looked sharper and cleaner picture wise than my previous RS600. It looked similar in many ways to my RS4500. But not that close - I'll be keeping my RS4500 thank you ! ;)
I forgot to add I sold my OPPO 203 and replaced it with the PANNY UB9000. I set them up with instructions from VALUE ELECTRONICS. WHich I would recommend.
 

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My RS400 was calibrated by CHADB so I feel he had it set to its limitations. I think the NX5 is brighter, sharper and has more contrast. I am on his schedule to this one done. Still out of the box this one is a BIG difference.
Yeah my main worry is brightness since I do want the HDR to pop and maybe have lights on a little bit for sports etc. I would prefer not to run high lamp all the time unless it isn't too loud. I'm guessing contrast is still going to kick butt on Epson 6050.

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Also I was planning to get an Elunevision reference 4k screen slim but it is only 1.0 gain and it sounds like getting a custom order for 1.3 will add quite a bit of cost.

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Hi guys,

Quick probably stupid question. After doing a whole pixel adjust on rs2000, do you have to leave the adjust setting to on for adjustments to be used or can the adjust setting be turned to off and whantever adjustments were made while adjust was on are used. Thanks

Ron
If the setting is off then the adjustments are not used.
 

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Hi guys,

Have another newbie question. I want to try the zoom function in installation modes to use full panel while watching wider aspect ratios (ie. My screen is 16:9). How exactly do I do this to get increased light. Do I just turn aspect ratio from native to zoom or is there something else I need to do in addition to that. Thanks

Ron
 

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You shouldnt need to physically unplug cables. Both displays should be unplugged and the anthem off to start. Power on only one display leaving the other unplugged. Then power on anthem. It should show video on the one display. To switch displays, power off the active one, power off the socket, power on the new display socket, power on the display, then perhaps power cycle anthem. This is how I managed my 2 projectors last year with the anthem.
No dice...3 smart plugs, tv, pj, anthem...both monitor outs connected, all plugs off...switch pj plug on, switch anthem plug on, play hdr movie on pj...all good...power down pj, switch off pj plug, power down anthem, switch anthem plug off...switch anthem plug on (enables tv pass thru when in standby) switch tv plug on, turn tv on, no video to tv...

Edit: switched monitor outs (1 to 2 and 2 to 1) still no dice...Pj will fire up fine with both monitor outs connected, but tv will not with both monitor outs connected, have to physically unplug the pj monitor out to get tv to fire up...
 

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DreamScreen, just has not designed an electric screen, but no reason you could not do so with this fabric.
I received a reply from them (Jon) and no, it is not suitable for tensioned electric screens as it requires too much side tension only possible with fixed frames.
 

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I tried that with my Onkyo 1100. I was using Rupro 40' fiber optic to RS1000 and 12' premium certified HDMI to TCL TV. Would work intermittently. Also tried RS640 and same results. If I used 6' premium certified cables to the TV and the projector, they worked every time. I ended up replacing the rupro cable with Atlona HD Base T system.
Question: I currently have an ONKYO RZ5100 A/V Preamp, which is ONKYO's present flagship preprocessor. The HDMI run to our 1080p projector is approximately 25 feet. We have never had any connectivity issues from the preamp.

Based on your experience and information, when switching to a JVC 4K projector, will my ONKYO Preprocessor be able to handle this run using a Rupio optical HDMI cable or am I going to have "connectivity issues" and have to go another route to make it work?
 

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You are 100 percent correct, the output is just split...I have a wall switch which totally kills power and therefore standby mode to the pj...Still can't get vid on tv without physically unplugging an hdmi monitor out...Also the 50 ft hdmi run to the pj is active BUT I think ive tried both active and inactive...Any other thoughts or things I could try? Thanks again
Hey, I have the exact same issue with my setup on the RS1000 and my Sony 65" 900e.

-My Problem-
My Denon 4500H on 'auto' screen select can't work out what to output, If I have the Apple TV on and the Sony TV on and I want to switch to the PJ, I turn off the TV which also then turns off the Apple TV, and the PJ says no input. If I turn the apple TV back on, it turns the PJ off and turns the TV on. From time to time it will display the Apple TV on both the PJ and the Sony simultaneously - So turn off the TV, which turns off the Apple TV and we start the Cycle again and again.

I have been through the manual unplugging etc to try to isolate the culprit, disabled CEC on everything (btw Apple TV turns this back on by itself each update), changed from Optical HDMI cables to short normal cables, different ports.

-FIX-
The fix is easier than you think, and relatively painless.

Set the output manually on the amp, its the only way to effectively change without unplugging or de-powering anything.

For easier, buy a Logitech Harmony (~$30), and code the button combo on the amp into the remote as the Logitech can perform step changes. I have two programs, switch from TV -> PJ, and switch PJ -> TV. Only downside is you have to keep the harmony pointed at the receiver until it complete the steps.

For an even easier option without buying an additional remote is see if there is an app from an iOS or Android device and change it in the app - Denon AVR app on iOS can switch the output from TV to PJ.

I wish my Denon remote had was an output button, as my old Yamaha Aventage did.

Not an ideal fix (as I was blaming the Denon as my old Yamaha didn't do this), but I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Hey, I have the exact same issue with my setup on the RS1000 and my Sony 65" 900e.

-My Problem-
My Denon 4500H on 'auto' screen select can't work out what to output, If I have the Apple TV on and the Sony TV on and I want to switch to the PJ, I turn off the TV which also then turns off the Apple TV, and the PJ says no input. If I turn the apple TV back on, it turns the PJ off and turns the TV on. From time to time it will display the Apple TV on both the PJ and the Sony simultaneously - So turn off the TV, which turns off the Apple TV and we start the Cycle again and again.

I have been through the manual unplugging etc to try to isolate the culprit, disabled CEC on everything (btw Apple TV turns this back on by itself each update), changed from Optical HDMI cables to short normal cables, different ports.

-FIX-
The fix is easier than you think, and relatively painless.

Set the output manually on the amp, its the only way to effectively change without unplugging or de-powering anything.

For easier, buy a Logitech Harmony (~$30), and code the button combo on the amp into the remote as the Logitech can perform step changes. I have two programs, switch from TV -> PJ, and switch PJ -> TV. Only downside is you have to keep the harmony pointed at the receiver until it complete the steps.

For an even easier option without buying an additional remote is see if there is an app from an iOS or Android device and change it in the app - Denon AVR app on iOS can switch the output from TV to PJ.

I wish my Denon remote had was an output button, as my old Yamaha Aventage did.

Not an ideal fix (as I was blaming the Denon as my old Yamaha didn't do this), but I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Dave
Thanks...on the Denon, can you choose what monitor out to use (1 or 2?)...i “don’t” think the Anthem has that capability...perhaps someone can correct me if I am wrong...
 

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I have an NX5, projecting onto a 110" from 14 feet. If you can see from the attachment, there is approximately 7 inches of clearance on each side of felt edges of the screen. I was thinking of moving up to a 120" screen, which would be a tight fit and only leave about 1-1.5" on each side beyond the felt borders of the screen. Is there any reason why I should not move up to a bigger screen, would the edges of the screen being too close to the side walls? Do i need to leave a set amount of clearance, or it is ok to go right up against the other walls?
 

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Question: I currently have an ONKYO RZ5100 A/V Preamp, which is ONKYO's present flagship preprocessor. The HDMI run to our 1080p projector is approximately 25 feet. We have never had any connectivity issues from the preamp.

Based on your experience and information, when switching to a JVC 4K projector, will my ONKYO Preprocessor be able to handle this run using a Rupio optical HDMI cable or am I going to have "connectivity issues" and have to go another route to make it work?
The problem is not the JVC. The problem is the Onkyo, per my discussions with Onkyo. The Onkyo and I suspect the Anthem have a problem powering both outputs for long distance at 18Gbps. Like I said, I could connect the TV and the projector using 6' premium certified HDMI cables and completely issue free, but as soon as I use long cables (50' Rupro) and 12' premium certified to TV, issues galore. If all you are doing is connecting a 25' premium certified HDMI cable to the projector and not using the second HDMI output, you probably will not have any problems, though you would need to test to know for sure.
 

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Hi guys,

Quick probably stupid question. After doing a whole pixel adjust on rs2000, do you have to leave the adjust setting to on for adjustments to be used or can the adjust setting be turned to off and whatever adjustments were made while adjust was on are used. Thanks

Ron
You leave adjustment setting on. What were you hoping to achieve by turning in off?
 

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The problem is not the JVC. The problem is the Onkyo, per my discussions with Onkyo. The Onkyo and I suspect the Anthem have a problem powering both outputs for long distance at 18Gbps. Like I said, I could connect the TV and the projector using 6' premium certified HDMI cables and completely issue free, but as soon as I use long cables (50' Rupro) and 12' premium certified to TV, issues galore. If all you are doing is connecting a 25' premium certified HDMI cable to the projector and not using the second HDMI output, you probably will not have any problems, though you would need to test to know for sure.
Thank you for the answer. I will be using a single HDMI run to the projector when the time comes so hopefully it will work. We shall see.

By the way, what is a "Atlona HD Base T system"? Can you provide me with a link so that I, along with others can research it as an option if needed, thanks in advance.
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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Considering the NX-5 and just wondering about any known issues/limitations. I do like the idea of a native 4K projector compared to Pixel shifters but a little apprehensive because this model is the entry level one. Planning to use a 135" 16:9 screen in a light controlled environment (darkish walls but not velvet at this point) sitting about 11-12 ft away. Would like to be able to have a little bit of light in the room when watching sports and do like a fairly bright picture if possible but hoping I wouldn't have to be running in high lamp mode all the time. Thanks!

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On a 135" 16x9 you will have plenty of light. This is the same screen I have. I've always run my JVC's always on low lamp and low lighting for sports is fine.

Edit: and you do not need a 1.3 gain screen for this size. 1.0 is just fine. I have a 1.0 gain screen and have always run low lamp on all my JVC machines in here. You get about 1250 lumens on low lamp on JVC which will be fine for you. For HDR you may want to kick into high but good tone mapping you can get away with running on low also. On all projectors, HDR is not going to pop like a TV. But really good tone mapping can make it look pretty good.
 
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