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Like I have said my main concerns are that I have never had a PJ before where the convergence went out of whack just by inverting the image.
Far off when just inverting image, not projector, as I said earlier is strange.
As I said before here, that aspect is normal—it's just the (I'd argue) non-intuitive way that JVC's pixel adjustments interact with installation styles: if you do pixel adjustments to improve convergence in one installation style, and then you just switch to the inverse style (e.g. tabletop front to ceiling front), the convergence will become "far off" (twice as bad as it would be with no pixel adjustments)—you have to invert all of the pixel adjustment values along with inverting the installation style.

I agree with others here who said that you should be concerned if you can't get acceptable results with your projector within the range of whole pixel adjustments.

FWIW, I've attached a snapshot of my RS1000's focus/convergence pattern with my normal settings (see first photo). That's with a whole pixel adjustment to red of H -1 and V -1 in Ceiling Front installation style. You can see a slight red fringe below the letter and the horizontal line, because the vertical whole pixel adjustment overshot by a little bit, but it's better than with it at zero—and that fringe is invisible to me at more than half a screen width away.

And to the earlier point, if I just switch from Ceiling Front to Front installation style and change nothing else, red will move completely off the horizontal and vertical lines—see the second snapshot attached, with the upside-down "Focus" text. To get that to look like the first snapshot I'd have to switch red to H +1 and V +1. That's just a choice JVC made in the design of this user experience, but not something to be concerned about with your projector.

Note that if you're using fine pixel adjustments, I'd expect that to cause a little bit of apparent softening of crisp pixel edges at least when viewed up close.
 

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Just a quick post before I go to work. Thanks to everyone for their comments and photos. I will do some more tests tomorrow and perhaps take off the fine adjustment to see if it looks sharper and to take photos of how far out it is with just the -2 and +2 full pixel adjustments.
 

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One problem with the DLA-RS420 (DLA-X570R) that I own is the very long delay with HDMI sync. Sometimes it is 8-10sec or more.

I know that this has been slightly reduced in the NX series but is it to the point of not being an issue?

I went from a JVC RS-1 that had very minimal HDMI sync delays to a much much better (image wise) X570 but the delay bothers me as I sometimes like to flip between demo scenes with different resolutions, framerate and/or color depth.

I am tempted with all of the talk about the NX7 but still wondering if JVC could fix the issue.
Do the Sony's or the Epson's have the same HDMI sync delay?
There will always be a slight delay at least a sec or two? I do not believe I have ever had a devise that was instotanious.
 

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What’s the consensus on the RS2000’s DI. Are people using it for HDR material with little to know signs of pumping?

And are they prone to having light corners on a black screen. Is it also like past generations where it is kind of luck of the draw?

Only asking as I’m contemplating upgrading from the X790 of which the DI showed way to much pumping on HDR material to use. However my X790 has absolutely no bright corners which is nice.
 

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What’s the consensus on the RS2000’s DI. Are people using it for HDR material with little to know signs of pumping?

And are they prone to having light corners on a black screen. Is it also like past generations where it is kind of luck of the draw?

Only asking as I’m contemplating upgrading from the X790 of which the DI showed way to much pumping on HDR material to use. However my X790 has absolutely no bright corners which is nice.
am using the DI for HDR material. no sign of any pumping or anything, in fact the iris i would suggest seems to have come quite some ways to how remember o the x7000 :)

definitely will see some light corners though i woudl suggest. but then we saw them too with the previous gen jvc... though seems to wear off a bit over time ? not sure if that will happen with this series too with use :)
 

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What’s the consensus on the RS2000’s DI. Are people using it for HDR material with little to know signs of pumping?

And are they prone to having light corners on a black screen. Is it also like past generations where it is kind of luck of the draw?

Only asking as I’m contemplating upgrading from the X790 of which the DI showed way to much pumping on HDR material to use. However my X790 has absolutely no bright corners which is nice.


I don’t think there is a consensus.

Some people like using the DI and some don’t.

Personally I find the DI introduces too much yellowing and blown out highlight detail that I prefer just keeping it off.

FWIW I see no bright corners with it on or off.
 

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What’s the consensus on the RS2000’s DI. Are people using it for HDR material with little to know signs of pumping?

And are they prone to having light corners on a black screen. Is it also like past generations where it is kind of luck of the draw?

Only asking as I’m contemplating upgrading from the X790 of which the DI showed way to much pumping on HDR material to use. However my X790 has absolutely no bright corners which is nice.
The pumping is reduced or gone on credits and a few freak scenes, at the expense of a significantly higher black floor on fade to black and lower dynamic contrast, so if you complained about pumping, you got your wish :)

Using the DI causes other artifacts especially in HDR when the iris is fully open in some situations, it can vary with settings and source, but the intensity of the artifacts reduces as you close the DI (and reduce the dynamic contrast).

There is yellowing for some, and crushing of highlights. These artifacts are present on older models, so if you don't see them, don't look for them. They are present on older models too (atr least the highlights crushing, I've never seen the yellowing on my rs500), so nothing new here.

If you see them, close your iris down if you can, or switch the DI off, or get an rs3000 if you can as they seem to be immune to the highlights crushing (different lens, lens mechanism and DI algo most likely).

The picture of the new 4K models is stunning, and I wouldn't consider the DI to be a showstopper given how great the picture looks in HDR, even with the DI off (many people enjoy HDR with the DI on). The new Frame Adapt TM in itself is far more important if you don't use madVR or a Radiance Pro (or plan to get an Envy), so that alone would make any DI artifact insignificant.

There is a luck of the draw involved everytime you change your projector (bright corners, convergence, focus, gamut cover, native on/off, brightness), but provided you have reasonable expectations (i.e. don't expect perfection on all these factors and are happy with a great looking unit from sitting position) and a good authorized dealer to support you if anything isn't as it should be, that shouldn't be any problem.

I don't see any reason at this stage to not buy a new model if you can afford it. The JVCs are now significantly better for HDR content than any othe rprojector on the market with their new DTM, so it's really a case of getting the best you can afford.

The rs2000 that replaced my rs500 is not the best unit out there: convergence is not perfect at the screen, but fine from sitting position, I have very slight bright corners at the bottom of the screen only visible in long fade to blacks, my DCI red is very slightly undersaturated. But I don't care because none of this is visible as I watch a film: it's the best projector I ever had in my room. I use the DI in SDR (iris -12) and no DI in HDR (fully open). The picture is stunning in both modes and better than it's ever been in 3D. So it's not going anywhere, and apart from an rs3000 I wouldn't replace it with anything else (including an rs4500 as it wouldn't suit my needs/room). HDMI sync is 4 times faster! So my rs500 on the lower shelf is collecting dust. :)
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | B&W 802D3, HTM1D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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To all, especially Mike,

this is a picture of my focus screen after 20 minutes. This is the best I can get it. Photo taken with a Canon 60D 55-250 EFS lens on a tripod with mirror lock up. The colour fringing isn't noticeable when looking at the screen directly, but the blurriness is what it is like with the naked eye.

Is this a good representation of what you guys are seeing with yours.

Wow, yours have nicely defined edges. What did you think of my focus picture?

And thanks for taking the time with all the replies you have given me.
I think your focus is ok. You can see the pixel grid so that means it's in focus. The word "focus" looks a little blurry though, but I think that's due to your convergence still sucking not due to poor focus. I don't think I'd be happy with your convergence situation. That projector needs to be swapped.
Well yours is not a NX9/RS3000. It will never be as sharp as the lens is quite a bit better on those.
I don't agree with this. I think the RS2000 at just the center of the screen like we see in this focus photo should have just as good as focus as an RS3000. Where the RS3000 lens shines is that it's going to maintain focus uniformity across the whole screen where the RS2000 may or may not as well.

Just a quick post before I go to work. Thanks to everyone for their comments and photos. I will do some more tests tomorrow and perhaps take off the fine adjustment to see if it looks sharper and to take photos of how far out it is with just the -2 and +2 full pixel adjustments.
Yea that photo will be important to judge. Don't worry about convergence changing by flipping the image mode. Worry instead about the fact that you cannot get it to be in convergence since moving it a whole 2 pixels is still not enough.
 

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To all, especially Mike,

this is a picture of my focus screen after 20 minutes. This is the best I can get it. Photo taken with a Canon 60D 55-250 EFS lens on a tripod with mirror lock up. The colour fringing isn't noticeable when looking at the screen directly, but the blurriness is what it is like with the naked eye.

Is this a good representation of what you guys are seeing with yours.

Wow, yours have nicely defined edges. What did you think of my focus picture?

And thanks for taking the time with all the replies you have given me.
I think your focus is ok. You can see the pixel grid so that means it's in focus. The word "focus" looks a little blurry though, but I think that's due to your convergence still sucking not due to poor focus. I don't think I'd be happy with your convergence situation. That projector needs to be swapped.
Well yours is not a NX9/RS3000. It will never be as sharp as the lens is quite a bit better on those.
I don't agree with this. I think the RS2000 at just the center of the screen like we see in this focus photo should have just as good as focus as an RS3000. Where the RS3000 lens shines is that it's going to maintain focus uniformity across the whole screen where the RS2000 may or may not as well.

Just a quick post before I go to work. Thanks to everyone for their comments and photos. I will do some more tests tomorrow and perhaps take off the fine adjustment to see if it looks sharper and to take photos of how far out it is with just the -2 and +2 full pixel adjustments.
Yea that photo will be important to judge. Don't worry about convergence changing by flipping the image mode. Worry instead about the fact that you cannot get it to be in convergence since moving it a whole 2 pixels is still not enough.
Hi markmon1,

What I am going to do later is check convergence on a blank piece of paper in case my “filmex” (a sort of spandex) screen is contributing to the focus issue, and take some more photos.

I take on board what you are saying about the convergence. I will decide what to do when I look at the results later.

Thank you

Graham
 

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I don't agree with this. I think the RS2000 at just the center of the screen like we see in this focus photo should have just as good as focus as an RS3000. Where the RS3000 lens shines is that it's going to maintain focus uniformity across the whole screen where the RS2000 may or may not as well.
It definitely could be lens lottery, but I have seen 1 NX9, 2 NX7 and 1 NX5. The 3 NX7/5 all looked the same to me in terns of focus in the center. It was sharp yes, you could see the pixel edges.

But then NX9 that I saw at least compared to these 3 NX7/5 was on another level of sharpness. It was razor sharp and the only other time I have seen such sharpness with razor sharp pixel edges and such a well defined pixel grid was on the LK970 and HT9060.
 

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Thinking of the NX7, might get a good deal tomorrow, just a few questons:

1-is the price difference worth the jump from the NX5 to the NX7? i usually tend to sell my gear so think this will stay a max of 3 years with me.
2-any benefits for 4k res if mainly my movies are 1080p? i know i will get some as i am using madvr with a 2060 Nvidia 6GB Card.
3-any basic calibration recommendation for it? without any tools, or does it look good out of the box? i know it's a different setting in every room but just wondering.

Btw i have a 160 inch screen,more details in sig.

Thanks
 

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As I said before here, that aspect is normal—it's just the (I'd argue) non-intuitive way that JVC's pixel adjustments interact with installation styles: if you do pixel adjustments to improve convergence in one installation style, and then you just switch to the inverse style (e.g. tabletop front to ceiling front), the convergence will become "far off" (twice as bad as it would be with no pixel adjustments)—you have to invert all of the pixel adjustment values along with inverting the installation style.

I agree with others here who said that you should be concerned if you can't get acceptable results with your projector within the range of whole pixel adjustments.

FWIW, I've attached a snapshot of my RS1000's focus/convergence pattern with my normal settings (see first photo). That's with a whole pixel adjustment to red of H -1 and V -1 in Ceiling Front installation style. You can see a slight red fringe below the letter and the horizontal line, because the vertical whole pixel adjustment overshot by a little bit, but it's better than with it at zero—and that fringe is invisible to me at more than half a screen width away.

And to the earlier point, if I just switch from Ceiling Front to Front installation style and change nothing else, red will move completely off the horizontal and vertical lines—see the second snapshot attached, with the upside-down "Focus" text. To get that to look like the first snapshot I'd have to switch red to H +1 and V +1. That's just a choice JVC made in the design of this user experience, but not something to be concerned about with your projector.

Note that if you're using fine pixel adjustments, I'd expect that to cause a little bit of apparent softening of crisp pixel edges at least when viewed up close.
If he has saved to installation, then there can be a difference. That is why I think he should reset the projector back to factory. Then just switching mounting styles should not show a sharpness difference.
 

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The pumping is reduced or gone on credits and a few freak scenes, at the expense of a significantly higher black floor on fade to black and lower dynamic contrast, so if you complained about pumping, you got your wish :)

Using the DI causes other artifacts especially in HDR when the iris is fully open in some situations, it can vary with settings and source, but the intensity of the artifacts reduces as you close the DI (and reduce the dynamic contrast).

There is yellowing for some, and crushing of highlights. These artifacts are present on older models, so if you don't see them, don't look for them.

If you see them, close your iris down if you can, or switch the DI off, or get an rs3000 if you can as they seem to be immune to the highlights crushing (different lens, lens mechanism and DI algo most likely).

The picture of the new 4K models is stunning, and I wouldn't consider the DI to be a showstopper given how great the picture looks in HDR, even with the DI off. The new Frame Adapt TM in itself is far more important if you don't use madVR or a Radiance Pro (or plan to get an Envy), so that alone would make any DI artifact insignificant.

There is a luck of the draw involved everytime you change your projector (bright corners, convergence, focus, gamut cover, native on/off, brightness), but provided you have reasonable expectations (i.e. don't expect perfection on all these factors and are happy with a great looking unit from sitting position) and a good authorized dealer to support you if anything isn't as it should be, that shouldn't be any problem.

I don't see any reason at this stage to not buy a new model if you can afford it. The JVCs are now significantly better for HDR content than anything else with their new DTM, so it's really a case of getting the best you can afford.

The rs2000 that replaced my rs500 is not the best unit out there: convergence is not perfect at the screen, but fine from sitting position, I have very slight bright corners at the bottom of the screen only visible in long fade to blacks, my DCI red is very slightly undersaturated. But I don't care because none of this is visible as I watch a film: it's the best projector I ever had in my room. I use the DI in SDR (iris -12) and no DI in HDR (fully open). The picture is stunning in both modesand better than it's ever been in 3D. So it's not going anywhere, and apart from an rs3000 I wouldn't replace it with anything (including an rs4500 as it wouldn't suit my needs/room). HDMI sync is 4 times faster! So my rs500 on the lower shelf is collecting dust. :)
Yep and because too many people expect perfection and exchange trying to get it, I will be surprised if advanced exchange is offered next year. :(
 

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Thinking of the NX7, might get a good deal tomorrow, just a few questons:

1-is the price difference worth the jump from the NX5 to the NX7? i usually tend to sell my gear so think this will stay a max of 3 years with me.
2-any benefits for 4k res if mainly my movies are 1080p? i know i will get some as i am using madvr with a 2060 Nvidia 6GB Card.
3-any basic calibration recommendation for it? without any tools, or does it look good out of the box? i know it's a different setting in every room but just wondering.

Btw i have a 160 inch screen,more details in sig.

Thanks
With a 160" diagonal 16:9 1.2 gain screen, you could use the color filter in the 2000, but not for very long, so the filter is not a must have for you. So it comes down to the contrast difference. With your size screen, I would lean toward the RS1000/NX5.
 

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With a 160" diagonal 16:9 1.2 gain screen, you could use the color filter in the 2000, but not for very long, so the filter is not a must have for you. So it comes down to the contrast difference. With your size screen, I would lean toward the RS1000/NX5.
Thanks appreciate it.

And it has auto HDR just like the NX7 right?

How about brightness would it have issues with my screen size? talking about the nx5.
 

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What’️s the consensus on the RS2000’️s DI. Are people using it for HDR material with little to know signs of pumping?

And are they prone to having light corners on a black screen. Is it also like past generations where it is kind of luck of the draw?

Only asking as I’️m contemplating upgrading from the X790 of which the DI showed way to much pumping on HDR material to use. However my X790 has absolutely no bright corners which is nice.
The pumping is reduced or gone on credits and a few freak scenes, at the expense of a significantly higher black floor on fade to black and lower dynamic contrast, so if you complained about pumping, you got your wish /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

Using the DI causes other artifacts especially in HDR when the iris is fully open in some situations, it can vary with settings and source, but the intensity of the artifacts reduces as you close the DI (and reduce the dynamic contrast).

There is yellowing for some, and crushing of highlights. These artifacts are present on older models, so if you don't see them, don't look for them.

If you see them, close your iris down if you can, or switch the DI off, or get an rs3000 if you can as they seem to be immune to the highlights crushing (different lens, lens mechanism and DI algo most likely).

The picture of the new 4K models is stunning, and I wouldn't consider the DI to be a showstopper given how great the picture looks in HDR, even with the DI off. The new Frame Adapt TM in itself is far more important if you don't use madVR or a Radiance Pro (or plan to get an Envy), so that alone would make any DI artifact insignificant.

There is a luck of the draw involved everytime you change your projector (bright corners, convergence, focus, gamut cover, native on/off, brightness), but provided you have reasonable expectations (i.e. don't expect perfection on all these factors and are happy with a great looking unit from sitting position) and a good authorized dealer to support you if anything isn't as it should be, that shouldn't be any problem.

I don't see any reason at this stage to not buy a new model if you can afford it. The JVCs are now significantly better for HDR content than anything else with their new DTM, so it's really a case of getting the best you can afford.

The rs2000 that replaced my rs500 is not the best unit out there: convergence is not perfect at the screen, but fine from sitting position, I have very slight bright corners at the bottom of the screen only visible in long fade to blacks, my DCI red is very slightly undersaturated. But I don't care because none of this is visible as I watch a film: it's the best projector I ever had in my room. I use the DI in SDR (iris -12) and no DI in HDR (fully open). The picture is stunning in both modesand better than it's ever been in 3D. So it's not going anywhere, and apart from an rs3000 I wouldn't replace it with anything (including an rs4500 as it wouldn't suit my needs/room). HDMI sync is 4 times faster! So my rs500 on the lower shelf is collecting dust. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Thanks for the review. Really appreciate it!

I pretty much have a golden sample with my X790 and it throws a fantastic picture for SDR and HDR material.

I currently have my SDR set at -12 and HDR at -4 which is plenty bright on my 100” studiotek 130 screen so I would guess these settings would stay about the same with the RS2000. I would just need to decide if the DI worked well enough for me. Did you notice much of a difference in black levels coming from your older projector?

I am using Javs custom curves and I find they do a great job. Is the DTM that much better? And can it be used for gaming on a PS4?

Sorry for all the questions but just trying to do my research before putting down some cold hard cash. And getting feedback from owners on the forum is the best way I can think to do that 🙂
 

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I am using Javs custom curves and I find they do a great job. Is the DTM that much better? And can it be used for gaming on a PS4?
Yes and yes. I used custom curves and the Panasonic HDR Optimizer on my RS520. DTM is a whole different level. Those who have gamed on these projectors report that DTM is excellent in that application.
 

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What’s the consensus on the RS2000’s DI. Are people using it for HDR material with little to know signs of pumping?

And are they prone to having light corners on a black screen. Is it also like past generations where it is kind of luck of the draw?

Only asking as I’m contemplating upgrading from the X790 of which the DI showed way to much pumping on HDR material to use. However my X790 has absolutely no bright corners which is nice.
am using the DI for HDR material. no sign of any pumping or anything, in fact the iris i would suggest seems to have come quite some ways to how remember o the x7000 :)

definitely will see some light corners though i woudl suggest. but then we saw them too with the previous gen jvc... though seems to wear off a bit over time ? not sure if that will happen with this series too with use :)
Mine falls into this camp; the DI doesn't exhibit pumping, nor do I see the yellowing of text that some report.

This DI visibly brings down black levels but does so invisibly and silently. I have to say this DI implementation is now the best I've seen.
 

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Mine falls into this camp; the DI doesn't exhibit pumping, nor do I see the yellowing of text that some report.

This DI visibly brings down black levels but does so invisibly and silently. I have to say this DI implementation is now the best I've seen.
I'm with you there. Owned the NX7 since April and I think may have noticed coloration twice. So at least for me the DI has way more positives than negatives.
 
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