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Yes, the dynamic tone mapping supersedes / obsoletes the panasonic UB9000 tone mapping.
But does it supersede Dave's observation of what the OPPO 203/205 or Sony x700, x800m2 or 1100es players can do, using a HDFury Sony A1 LLDV EDID to output a Dolby Vision signal to the projector, in a HDR PQ container?

Aztar, we are definitely going to have to check this out with either your nx7 or during the 5/7/9 demo. :)

I have scene examples to easily compare, how the Sony A1 LLDV EDID forcing a DV signal from the x800m2 to the x990, is showing superior luminance dynamics, versus the best the ub820 can do. The examples are now with both DV and HDR10 mastered titles. I definitely would not call it DTM, but there is something the player led DV is doing that is well beyond static tone mapping.

Exciting stuff.
 

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But does it supersede Dave's observation of what the OPPO 203/205 or Sony x700, x800m2 or 1100es players can do, using a HDFury Sony A1 LLDV EDID to output a Dolby Vision signal to the projector, in a HDR PQ container?

Aztar, we are definitely going to have to check this out with either your nx7 or during the 5/7/9 demo. :)

I have scene examples to easily compare, how the Sony A1 LLDV EDID forcing a DV signal from the x800m2 to the x990, is showing superior luminance dynamics, versus the best the ub820 can do. The examples are now with both DV and HDR10 mastered titles. I definitely would not call it DTM, but there is something the player led DV is doing that is well beyond static tone mapping.

Exciting stuff.
Hi, RJ. They'll have a brand new NX7 at the demo, so bring your gear, including the Vertex. I guess they will update it to FW V. 3.10. We can do comparisons. But for Frame Adapt to run correctly, the two types of TM should not be used together.

By the way, after experimenting with the NX7's DTM, I found the scene-by-scene medium setting gave me the best overall results for almost all content. I set it and leave it. F-B-F, at times, showed blown out whites even in the low DTM setting and gave the picture a dry, chalky look (sorry, best I can describe).
 

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Hi, RJ. They'll have a brand new NX7 at the demo, so bring your gear, including the Vertex. I guess they will update it to FW V. 3.10. We can do comparisons. But for Frame Adapt to run correctly, the two types of TM should not be used together.

By the way, after experimenting with the NX7's DTM, I found the scene-by-scene medium setting gave me the best overall results for almost all content. I set it and leave it. F-B-F, at times, showed blown out whites even in the low DTM setting and gave the picture a dry, chalky look (sorry, best I can describe).
Thanks for the info...what screen are you using?
 

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Stewart Cima Neve, 2.35:1, 125 inches diagonal.
Awesome! Oh yes, I forgot...same screen as me...when my screen arrives, I’ll give those settings a whirl!
 

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To all, especially Mike,



this is a picture of my focus screen after 20 minutes. This is the best I can get it. Photo taken with a Canon 60D 55-250 EFS lens on a tripod with mirror lock up. The colour fringing isn't noticeable when looking at the screen directly, but the blurriness is what it is like with the naked eye.



Is this a good representation of what you guys are seeing with yours.


No. This is definitely the crispier “focus” letter I have seen. At least from my NX7 (RS2000), it is much sharper. I can see a tad of color smearing on the lettering. To me, that’s not optimal as I don’t see any in mine even as this close range. For the Color fringing, I have a feeling that you might have overdone the pixel alignment adjust. Can do a reset to the pixel alignment and then take a look at the “focus” and see if the sharpness improves even though you did not have good convergence. The point is to see if there is any correlation with too much adjustment causing this color fringing issue here.



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One problem with the DLA-RS420 (DLA-X570R) that I own is the very long delay with HDMI sync. Sometimes it is 8-10sec or more.



I know that this has been slightly reduced in the NX series but is it to the point of not being an issue?



I went from a JVC RS-1 that had very minimal HDMI sync delays to a much much better (image wise) X570 but the delay bothers me as I sometimes like to flip between demo scenes with different resolutions, framerate and/or color depth.



I am tempted with all of the talk about the NX7 but still wondering if JVC could fix the issue.

Do the Sony's or the Epson's have the same HDMI sync delay?


Yes, the hdmi syncing delay has improved quite a fair bit compared to the previous X series. I would say it is within tolerable threshold. PQ wise, it will make you happy to forget about this issue.



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With my brand new RS1000, my screen goes black for about 10 seconds when I start a disc or change sources. Sound starts about halfway through that period.

I can set my Oppo UDP-203 to avoid the HDMI negotiation about the display's HDR capability by choosing "Force HDR" (which does not affect SDR disks). Would setting the player this way speed up the image appearing?

My Oppo and AVR are set to upscale everything to 4K - is there a setting in the RS1000 that short-circuits the negotiation, for faster display at the beginning?
 
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No. This is definitely the crispier “focus” letter I have seen. At least from my NX7 (RS2000), it is much sharper. I can see a tad of color smearing on the lettering. To me, that’s not optimal as I don’t see any in mine even as this close range. For the Color fringing, I have a feeling that you might have overdone the pixel alignment adjust. Can do a reset to the pixel alignment and then take a look at the “focus” and see if the sharpness improves even though you did not have good convergence. The point is to see if there is any correlation with too much adjustment causing this color fringing issue here.



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The focus does seem sharper before setting convergence when I am looking at the three separate colours. When you say you think I have overdone the pixel adjustment, I have no choice. It needs nearly all the available adjustment in both full pixel and fine adjustment to get it close.

I will report back when I get it fixed/replaced. It is being collected on Monday. Thank you for your comments.
 

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The focus does seem sharper before setting convergence when I am looking at the three separate colours. When you say you think I have overdone the pixel adjustment, I have no choice. It needs nearly all the available adjustment in both full pixel and fine adjustment to get it close.



I will report back when I get it fixed/replaced. It is being collected on Monday. Thank you for your comments.


Glad to know that u sent in for repair/replaced. All the best.


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The focus does seem sharper before setting convergence when I am looking at the three separate colours. When you say you think I have overdone the pixel adjustment, I have no choice. It needs nearly all the available adjustment in both full pixel and fine adjustment to get it close.



I will report back when I get it fixed/replaced. It is being collected on Monday. Thank you for your comments.
Duplicate post.

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Hello,

Thanks in advance to everyone who contributes to this forum - it's been invaluable to me as a reader over the years.

I'm hoping someone can advise me regarding an issue I'm having with my projector. I recently purchased an RS2000 and a UB9000. I'm running the UB9000 (and also a 4K Apple TV and an Xfinity cable box) through my Anthem MRX 720 AVR and then to the RS2000. Unfortunately the video on all three sources (UB9000, Apple TV and the cable box) occasionally cuts out completely when I'm watching DVDs, iTunes movies, and cable TV. If I'm watching a 2-hour movie it cuts out ~3 to 4 times during the moving for about 10 - 30 seconds and simply displays a grey screen (sometimes blue but most often grey). The audio works the entire time though.

Any idea what the problem could be? I'm thinking it could be:
-A defective HDMI cable, or
-An HDMI handshaking issue, or
-A defective RS2000

I'm using Chromis Tech. Pinnacle4K HDMI cables that are 10 meters long. I've installed the latest firmware on both the RS2000 and the Anthem MRX 720. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Thanks for that. Which would you say is the most accurate for it’s reading ?


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Well the i1 Pro 2 is great for color calibration. However it is not suitable for gamma because it is not accurate at reading the dark patterns that is required for gamma calibration.

The Spyder5 and SpyderX are both great at gamma, though the X is much faster.

Both the 5 and X are not so great for color and are pretty inconsistent, but it’s possible maybe you could receive one that does OK on color.
 

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There is a few things in my Home Theatre.
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Well the i1 Pro 2 is great for color calibration. However it is not suitable for gamma because it is not accurate at reading the dark patterns that is required for gamma calibration.

The Spyder5 and SpyderX are both great at gamma, though the X is much faster.

Both the 5 and X are not so great for color and are pretty inconsistent, but it’s possible maybe you could receive one that does OK on color.


So basically you need both. Thank you for that.
I’m going to have to order both

Cheers


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So basically you need both. Thank you for that.
I’m going to have to order both

Cheers


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Yep pretty much everyone will tell you that you need both.

But the good news is that with both you can get a pretty fantastic calibration and it’s pretty quick and easy to run it.

Will be great to run every say 250-500 hours to keep the projector looking near perfect all though it’s life.

Color cal with the i1 Pro 2 in some cases seems to restore some of the lost brightness over time as well which is nice. It adjusts things in the projectors calibration tables that otherwise cannot be adjusted manually.
 

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Yep pretty much everyone will tell you that you need both.

But the good news is that with both you can get a pretty fantastic calibration and it’s pretty quick and easy to run it.

Will be great to run every say 250-500 hours to keep the projector looking near perfect all though it’s life.

Color cal with the i1 Pro 2 in some cases seems to restore some of the lost brightness over time as well which is nice. It adjusts things in the projectors calibration tables that otherwise cannot be adjusted manually.


Thank you so much for that. Looking forward to when my arrives

Cheers


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Yep pretty much everyone will tell you that you need both.

But the good news is that with both you can get a pretty fantastic calibration and it’s pretty quick and easy to run it.

Will be great to run every say 250-500 hours to keep the projector looking near perfect all though it’s life.

Color cal with the i1 Pro 2 in some cases seems to restore some of the lost brightness over time as well which is nice. It adjusts things in the projectors calibration tables that otherwise cannot be adjusted manually.


So using BOTH meters with JVC's Auto Cal software, correct? Just crossing my "t"s and dotting my "i"s, so when it's my turn to calibrate mine. =)


Sent from my iPhone X
 
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