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JVC Autocal and when to use on x770RB/RS520?

I have a new x770RB/RS520 on the way. First JVC projector. I want to calibrate it to get the best picture/colour/gamma when I get it. I have been reading up on calibration. The only calibration I have ever done was with a DVE calibration disk. But I am trying to understand a little about the JVC Autocal software. I am thinking of getting a Spyder 5 Pro. I have a few questions.

Is JVC's Autocal supposed to be a full calibration for best picture/colour/gamma or only something you run to keep your projector within spec as the lamp gets older?

Should an Autocal be run to calibrate a new projector or should it have a certain number of hours first?

I assume Autocal is better than a calibration disc?

Is there something better for a calibration to get the best picture/colour/gamma? I would prefer something not overly complicated but I am willing to learn a tool. I also prefer to have a do it yourself solution so I can tweak as the bulb gets older.

Are JVCs pretty good in terms of calibration out of the box? x770RB/RS520 in particular.

Thanks,

Knight
 

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I was watching Looper the other night and had to turn off the DI because it was pumping too much. I didn't think too much about it and just chalked it up to it being a difficult film. I have about 700 hours on the projector and this is the first time I have had to turn it off. Last night while watching the first episode of Ozark I noticed it pumping again and then it went crazy. Going dark in bright scenes and bright in dark ones and everywhere in-between. It also made a loud noise right before losing its mind. I switched it to auto 1 and back to auto 2 and it was perfect for the rest of the episode. Hoping it stays good but wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else?
I have noticed the tiniest bit of this DI "pumping." I watched a bunch of the Harry Potter films on blu ray and saw it a bit. Havent seen it since. Don't know if it is a function of the media.

I did see banding with CMD off on FastFurious 8 UHD lots of shots of Cipher's forehead in the airplane. A lot. Havent seen it in other UHD movies though.

So I don't know how much is from the blu ray/uhd itself ... versus the projector.
 

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You only need Spyder Express.

Because these units suffer from Gamma droop a lot in the first 1000 hours or so, you want to run Gamma Autocal at 250 / 500 / 750 hours. I am betting your gamma will continue to droop until around then. Mine has.

The Autocal will get your PJ very close to reference. For most people its more than good enough, then you would just run touch up cals generally every 500 hours or so as the lamp ages. Its just I recommend 250 for the first 1000 hours since the panels themselves will suffer from substantial droop which needs to be corrected.

Yes it should be very good out of the box for greyscale and colour should be pretty good too, enough that you arguably wont need to worry much in those first couple hundred hours until you can put in the time it takes to get a good Autocal done. It will be pointless to do it before that first major droop starts to hit since you will only need to do it again.

Please continue the discussion in the Autocal thread.

Despite the thread being for older models, nothing much has changed and Mannis guide it excellent.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/2246658-jvc-calibration-software-v6-2015-models-x9000-x7000-x5000-rs400-rs500-rs600.html
 

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I have noticed the tiniest bit of this DI "pumping." I watched a bunch of the Harry Potter films on blu ray and saw it a bit. Havent seen it since. Don't know if it is a function of the media.

I did see banding with CMD off on FastFurious 8 UHD lots of shots of Cipher's forehead in the airplane.
A lot. Havent seen it in other UHD movies though.

So I don't know how much is from the blu ray/uhd itself ... versus the projector.
This is the elusive CMD bug which actually turns on CMD at random even though it shows as off, if you ever see it again just cycle CMD on and off and it will vanish.
 

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I assume you could create a Game user mode with Low Latency mode enabled, and that should stick in that user mode. I never found a way to convert from one format to the other. Theoretically you can generate the codes and Off/On would be 30/31, but I was never successful with that method, you can see here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/93-remote-control-area/2293850-urc-ccp-hex-code-help-mx880-jvc-rs4910.html
I feel your pain! Been there, done that with a number of AV devices. I always struggle to refamiliarize myself with MakeHex, IRScrutinizer, Pronto Edit, etc. and then actually get the code to work correctly.

You’ll laugh in that my favorite remote is the MX-850. I just love the 10 hard keys and simple text screen. Our guests can even figure it out without being shown how to use it. I love MX-850 Editor as I can just fly with that software. I’m so bummed that they stopped updating the IR database.

I finally resorted to getting an MX-990 and Complete Control Software. I really don’t like it that much as I find programming with it to be much more slow and cumbersome. What I end up doing is programming the IR codes I need and then teach them to the MX-850s I have.

FWIW, if I were you, I'd be looking at getting an x40, they've refined the HDR handling on it, and it shouldn't be too much more expensive with preorder pricing vs closeout pricing.
Definitely – I hope to get either an RS-440 or RS-540. While I think the 440 would do the job for me, I’d probably get the itch to upgrade much earlier to get the THX Cert, Wide Color Gamut (WCG), 130,000:1 vs 40,000:1 Native Contrast Mode, Dynamic Iris Differences that the 540 offers. I think the 440 would keep me content for a few years whereas the 540 would make me blissful for at least four years. Like everyone else, the biggest obstacle will likely be to get my wife’s blessing.

The last document on this page does a better job of showing you some available codes:
http://support.jvc.com/consumer/support/support.jsp?pageID=11
There are discrete codes for CMD and a code that brings up a MPC selection menu. I have not seen any codes for low latency published yet but there may be some. It I get chance I'll play around and see if I can find any.
Not all the ir codes listed work on the current models but most do. PM me if you want to know about any particular codes.
Thanks for finding that information. If you ever happen to find an IR code for the low latency – please PM me as that would be great to have. It’s frustrating that JVC publishes the codes for that for the RS-232 but does not provide IR codes for the latency or all the other things they do for RS-232.

Zorax... I can confirm what Stranger has said. One of the only things left out of the saved USER settings, is the function for screen masking. That is a stand alone function.
Thank you for confirming Stranger89s post. It is very important to me that the USER settings retain all the proper settings to simplify operations of the projector and different operating modes to make it easy to use for my family.

@stanger89, @Dundas, @Bytehoven:

Again – thank you all for your help. While I live in the Minneapolis / St. Paul metro area, JVC only lists 3 projector dealers. Two of them are Best Buy Magnolias and the other is an independent with a nice retail showroom.
One of the Magnolias had a RS-420 in a room but when I got there they told me it hasn’t worked for at least six weeks as they can’t get the optical/HDMI link to work properly. They did have an Epson 5040 and a Sony VPL-VW675ES. While the Epson was setup reasonably well, the Sony looked like crap. I have no idea as to what they did to make it look so bad – a real shame.

While the other Magnolia and Independent told me they had JVCs and to come take a look, they neglected to tell me they didn’t have any JVCs on display. Rest assured, all three places pounded into me the great merits of the Sony and Epson. I truly can’t knock either the Sony or Epson as they also have a lot of strengths but I thought it was interesting. It’s hard to believe JVC hasn’t managed to build a better presence in a large metro area like the Twin Cities.

Given all that, I will not have a chance to see a JVC in action until I actually purchase a JVC projector. I’d sure love to see one first but I’m confident based on all I’ve read and the support of folks like you that I’ll be thrilled with the performance and learn to tweak anything I need based on everyone’s feedback. I’m very grateful that all of you were able to help me confirm that I can save all settings to a USER setting to make it work in the manner our family is accustomed to. That was my big roadblock but I’m happy to hear it will all work as intended.

I look forward to getting the pre-order pricing – I hope I can make it all work out!
 

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This is the elusive CMD bug which actually turns on CMD at random even though it shows as off, if you ever see it again just cycle CMD on and off and it will vanish.
Thanks for that Javs.
 

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Zorax... I can confirm what Stranger has said. One of the only things left out of the saved USER settings, is the function for screen masking. That is a stand alone function. I imagine it is that way because JVC did not consider those of us with 2:40:1 screens and our zooming/scaling the projected image depending on the format of the source image.
Masking isn't save with lens memory is it? That's really where I wish it was saved, but it's not on my RS600.

I feel your pain! Been there, done that with a number of AV devices. I always struggle to refamiliarize myself with MakeHex, IRScrutinizer, Pronto Edit, etc. and then actually get the code to work correctly.

You’ll laugh in that my favorite remote is the MX-850. I just love the 10 hard keys and simple text screen. Our guests can even figure it out without being shown how to use it. I love MX-850 Editor as I can just fly with that software. I’m so bummed that they stopped updating the IR database.

I finally resorted to getting an MX-990 and Complete Control Software. I really don’t like it that much as I find programming with it to be much more slow and cumbersome. What I end up doing is programming the IR codes I need and then teach them to the MX-850s I have.
I've actually been quite happy with my MX880 and CCP, I find programming it to be quite easy and straightforward, especially compared to what I read in threads about people trying to get Harmony's to work.

Definitely – I hope to get either an RS-440 or RS-540. While I think the 440 would do the job for me, I’d probably get the itch to upgrade much earlier to get the THX Cert, Wide Color Gamut (WCG), 130,000:1 vs 40,000:1 Native Contrast Mode, Dynamic Iris Differences that the 540 offers. I think the 440 would keep me content for a few years whereas the 540 would make me blissful for at least four years. Like everyone else, the biggest obstacle will likely be to get my wife’s blessing.
It will be interesting to see preorder pricing this year. JVC dropped the RS540 MSRP $1000 and the 640 $2000, I wonder if that's an actual price drop, or if they just lowered the MSRP to be a bit closer to normal street pricing. The former would be great. FWIW, the THX Cert is, as far as I can tell, worthless, but the other differences are real, and IMO very much worth it.
 

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Masking isn't save with lens memory is it? That's really where I wish it was saved, but it's not on my RS600..
No, the masking option is not saved and I agree it would be nice to have the option as part of screen zoom user presets.
 

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I feel your pain! Been there, done that with a number of AV devices. I always struggle to refamiliarize myself with MakeHex, IRScrutinizer, Pronto Edit, etc. and then actually get the code to work correctly.

You’ll laugh in that my favorite remote is the MX-850. I just love the 10 hard keys and simple text screen. Our guests can even figure it out without being shown how to use it. I love MX-850 Editor as I can just fly with that software. I’m so bummed that they stopped updating the IR database.

I finally resorted to getting an MX-990 and Complete Control Software. I really don’t like it that much as I find programming with it to be much more slow and cumbersome. What I end up doing is programming the IR codes I need and then teach them to the MX-850s I have.
I've got that beat! I'm still using MX-500s and MX-600s. I have over 15, 7 in daily use and 3 new in a box. All but my first 2 were picked cheap on eBay. With IRCloneMX and the CCF2MX utility I have full Windows PC programing and editing and CCF import capabilities. The only codes I've ever had any problem with are Roku's because they are ridiculously long so I could not import them but the MX500 was still able to learn usable codes.
One consistent remote around the house helps with other users and the 3 dedicated macro buttons are great.

irScrutinizer should be all you need these days especially if you have a sender/receiver which makes it very easy to analyze and test signals.
Barf's design can be built for under $20. http://www.harctoolbox.org/arduino_nano.html
I am using all irScrutinzer generated signals with my DLA-X970.
 

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Thanks for the kind comments however I am just a simple guy with a taste for high end HT.
Personally I would stay away form high gain screens due to artifacting but many will challenge this of course, what distance will you have your PJ if you placed it at the back of the room? The 620 is 2000 lumens which is no slouch and can light up some serious screens. I have no issue running low lamp from about 5 meters.
My room is 12.6 x 22 ft. Effective throw distance worst case would be a 19ft throw (if I go with a hush box / separate equipment room through glass at back). First seating position would be 13ft-15ft from screen in either place. I would really like to avoid having the projector right above the first seating position because I have terribly low ceilings in my dungeon. :( But with your 5m comment, I might have to.

Once again appreciate the help.
 

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Zorax... I can confirm what Stranger has said. One of the only things left out of the saved USER settings, is the function for screen masking. That is a stand alone function. I imagine it is that way because JVC did not consider those of us with 2:40:1 screens and our zooming/scaling the projected image depending on the format of the source image. I have a flat black wall behind my screen, so it's not too much of an issue, but otherwise it might be.

Tech manuals are not yet posted for the new projectors, but you can see the current projector manuals here... http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/inst_man.jsp?model_id=MDL102474&feature_id=11

Then keep an eye out for when they add the new manuals to this link... http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/features.jsp?model_id=MDL102506
I've mentioned this in other threads but saw this post and thought I would chime in. For those using the zoom method with a scope screen and using an Oppo UHD player, it now has a 21:9 picture mode that you can use. If you use 21:9 cropped it will do the screen masking in player for you. It also has an on the fly 16x9 mode for switching instantly to a scaled 16x9 image within the 2.40:1 frame so you don't have to change zoom for menus and such (or movies if you don't want to). It is in the public beta now and will be in the official update very soon (the actual masking isn't in the beta, but is in the upcoming official). Just FYI.
 

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I have noticed the tiniest bit of this DI "pumping." I watched a bunch of the Harry Potter films on blu ray and saw it a bit. Havent seen it since. Don't know if it is a function of the media.

I did see banding with CMD off on FastFurious 8 UHD lots of shots of Cipher's forehead in the airplane. A lot. Havent seen it in other UHD movies though.

So I don't know how much is from the blu ray/uhd itself ... versus the projector.
I think my DI just went nuts for a little bit. I rewatched episode 1 of Ozark last night after resetting the DI and it worked perfectly. The banding with CMD can now be fixed if you send it to Mendtronix for service.
 

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I've mentioned this in other threads but saw this post and thought I would chime in. For those using the zoom method with a scope screen and using an Oppo UHD player, it now has a 21:9 picture mode that you can use. If you use 21:9 cropped it will do the screen masking in player for you. It also has an on the fly 16x9 mode for switching instantly to a scaled 16x9 image within the 2.40:1 frame so you don't have to change zoom for menus and such (or movies if you don't want to). It is in the public beta now and will be in the official update very soon (the actual masking isn't in the beta, but is in the upcoming official). Just FYI.
Kris, do you know if the picture takes a hit in quality if you use the 16x9 mode for switching instantly to a scaled 16x9 image within the 2.40:1 frame so you don't have to change zoom?
 

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Kris, do you know if the picture takes a hit in quality if you use the 16x9 mode for switching instantly to a scaled 16x9 image within the 2.40:1 frame so you don't have to change zoom?
Well it is only doing it with scaling. I've used a similar process with my Lumagen for my screen. So of course it isn't the FULL resolution that you would get by viewing 16x9 zoomed back in properly. Ultimately it is up to you how much of a hit it takes in picture quality for the application you plan to use. Honestly, in my viewing the picture still looks fantastic and I bet most would never know it was scaled unless I said something. I use it all the time for menus or for viewing something I don't care about being critical with (music video or something). For full movies I will just use the zoom memory of the projector, but I would completely understand those that just used the convenience of the scaling instead. At the end of the day it is your system, so it is all based on your subjective experience.
 

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Well it is only doing it with scaling. I've used a similar process with my Lumagen for my screen. So of course it isn't the FULL resolution that you would get by viewing 16x9 zoomed back in properly. Ultimately it is up to you how much of a hit it takes in picture quality for the application you plan to use. Honestly, in my viewing the picture still looks fantastic and I bet most would never know it was scaled unless I said something. I use it all the time for menus or for viewing something I don't care about being critical with (music video or something). For full movies I will just use the zoom memory of the projector, but I would completely understand those that just used the convenience of the scaling instead. At the end of the day it is your system, so it is all based on your subjective experience.


Thank you for the information


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I've mentioned this in other threads but saw this post and thought I would chime in. For those using the zoom method with a scope screen and using an Oppo UHD player, it now has a 21:9 picture mode that you can use. If you use 21:9 cropped it will do the screen masking in player for you. It also has an on the fly 16x9 mode for switching instantly to a scaled 16x9 image within the 2.40:1 frame so you don't have to change zoom for menus and such (or movies if you don't want to). It is in the public beta now and will be in the official update very soon (the actual masking isn't in the beta, but is in the upcoming official). Just FYI.
Yeah, I've read that, sounds pretty cool. I forget, does it automatically flip to the 16x9 shrink mode when the menus are activated? Now that we've got HDR sorted out pretty well on these JVCs so the HDR->SDR mapping issues are not relevant, with just native HDR output, how does the Oppo compare to the Panasonic currently?

I originally really wanted an Oppo and was waiting on it, unfortunately they seem to be struggling a bit with the 203 development, so I ended up with the Panny and so far haven't regretted it, but some of these new developments are intriguing.
 

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For a straight HDR player it works great. It is also one of the only ones with no color decoding issues (chroma upsampling).


For the 16x9 mode, you just press the zoom button. It does not do auto aspect detection. The only issue I know of with the 203 is the HDR to SDR conversion, but as a straight HDR UHD player it works great.
 

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The only thing with the Oppo 16x9 mode for scope owners is, Warner and Paramount have their (non scope and non 4:3) Blus framed at 1:78 where the other studios are usually at 1:85 (original aspect ratio) and need to be zoomed just sightly as they currently have a slightly smaller image with the Oppo mode today. I've passed this on to Oppo to create a 1:85 mode to have along with the 16:9 (which is 1:78).

The other issue is, many of us have 2:35 screens and not 2:4 so that creates additional space around 1:78/1:85 owners. If one has enough zoom on the projector they can in essence fix this, but my zoom is already maxed out. It would be great to support 2:35 and 2.4 but that would be a lot of modes to create. They did a nice first step for all of this.
 

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JVC 420/520 throw distance

How accurate/ reliable is the throw distance chart in the back of the user manual? I am trying to verify I can fit one of these and I am within inches. I have a 16x9 132" screen and if I interpolate the values in the manual I calculate I will need 157 inches (rounded up) lens to screen. I have 178 inches screen to back wall so I think I should have JUST enough room with the hdmi cable sticking out the back.

What do you guys think? Do I have room to fit this projector?


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I think there is a caveat in most spec sheets that says what the lens is capable of plus or minus a certain amount. This is due to variances in manufacturing tolerances. Not all lenses are built 100% to spec. If I remember correctly JVC says the claimed throw ratio is +/- 5%. So if you're within a coupe inches it may not fit as that may be within the +/- 5% variance. But if the specific lens you get in your projector is very close to spec then it should fit.
 
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