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Ive got the last one on the page- Red light (solid)-orange in the middleand then the waning light solid red. Spoke to ivc--they told me to send it in. First world problems. Frustrating nonetheless.
Doesn’t that pattern indicate a lamp problem? Have you tried taking it out and reseating it?
 

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Ive got the last one on the page- Red light (solid)-orange in the middleand then the waning light solid red. Spoke to ivc--they told me to send it in. First world problems. Frustrating nonetheless.
I'm not sure. The last one on the page has the standby lamp off. If yours is on, that's something else. :unsure:
 

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I'm not sure. The last one on the page has the standby lamp off. If yours is on, that's something else. :unsure:
The Standby indicator is not part of the pattern. This is what the manual says:
3092009
 

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The way I look at it, is it's free to try to pull the lamp and re-seat it. Worth a shot. Can always try a new bare bulb from Dominic, if he is still selling them. Even if it doesnt work, you have a spare bulb for cheap.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 

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The way I look at it, is it's free to try to pull the lamp and re-seat it. Worth a shot. Can always try a new bare bulb from Dominic, if he is still selling them. Even if it doesnt work, you have a spare bulb for cheap.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
So I did just that--and everything seemed solid on removal. Lamp looked intact for what thats worth--put it back in and it worked. Only had time to run it for 30 minutes or so but thats where I am for now. guess I try and use it a bunch and see what happens.
 

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I have a JVC RS520 and something is off with the picture. I never really tweaked any settings out of the box and it’s been just OK. Sometimes the picture is outstanding but lots of times I can’t see any detail whatsoever in darker scenes and now all of a sudden the lighter colors are gone.

We’ve been watching She-Ra on Netflix with my daughter and now all skin tones are completely white. She-Ra’s gold hair, flesh colored skin and white outfit are all white. It looks completely washed out. But darker colors like reds and blues look completely fine.

Any idea what could be causing this or what my settings should actually be? I have a completely dark room and I am running the HDMI through my Denon 6300 receiver.

Look at She-Ra’s arms and hair.



When I pause Netflix the colors actually look better (look at her arms) but the lettering on the left side that should be clear are totally washed out:



Thanks.
 

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Maybe you have it in the wrong mode? I have a 520 and I was setting it to hdr, but it shouldn't have been that way. It would make sdr thing look bad. I can't remember, it has been so long ago.
 

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upgraded from an RS20 to a used RS620 - difference is stunning (1880 hrs on bulb)
i am an ISF/THX certified calibrator, but gave it a rest in 2016, couldn't justify upgrading all the equipment for 4K
but here i am back with my own 4K PJ now
Calman 5.6 Ultimate, (2) i1pro, Spectracal C6 (i1D3 in disguise), Accupel 4000 signal generator

i did an autocal gamma/color with my i1pro & saved it - bad decision - looked terrible (i did have screen mode enabled which i saw later was not good)
restored from init file, red primary is up near yellow!!
restored again to be sure - same
any idea what happened with my init file? - corrupted?

did color again (not gamma) with my i1pro (iris 0, -5, -10, -15), CMD Off - PJ looks great again, so assuming gamma was restored properly (this is just SDR, no 4K source yet)?
this time realized that autocal was trying initialize my i1pro, so had the shutter closed when it started (dark screen) and flipped it open when the bright screen appeared with the orange box
i had many issues trying to get autocal to read values properly
most runs had Lv:0000.000 for most values, i just cancelled those, some times correct patterns were not displayed
finally think i fixed by changing the PJ network DHCP off/on

put new bulb in (saving old bulb in case new one dies)
i realize that things will shift, but it's just my time

now faced with doing the iris again with CMD On (altho i doubt i will ever use it)

what should i do now?
i could use the alternate sensor method to get the C6 working in autocal and make sure the gamma is correct
or, assume it's correct and fix using calman (i can profile my C6 to the i1pro)
or, load the custom custom curves, then fix using calman

next issue is my AVR (Anthem D2v) only supports 1080p, no Atmos, just the older formats which i am happy with
looking at Pana UB420, i'm not a disc person, just want streaming apps i.e. Netflix & Prime, but occasional disc would be nice
the Pana makes this easy with the 2 HDMI outs - best choice?
i have poked at the Pana thread & got back that the streaming apps weren't that great
anyone confirm the current status of the apps in 4K?
ATV, Firestick, Roku are out as they only have 1 HDMI out, yes, maybe i could get some sort of switcher...

then there is HDR, once i get a 4K device
 

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I have a JVC RS520 and something is off with the picture. I never really tweaked any settings out of the box and it’s been just OK. Sometimes the picture is outstanding but lots of times I can’t see any detail whatsoever in darker scenes and now all of a sudden the lighter colors are gone.

We’ve been watching She-Ra on Netflix with my daughter and now all skin tones are completely white. She-Ra’s gold hair, flesh colored skin and white outfit are all white. It looks completely washed out. But darker colors like reds and blues look completely fine.

Any idea what could be causing this or what my settings should actually be? I have a completely dark room and I am running the HDMI through my Denon 6300 receiver.

Look at She-Ra’s arms and hair.



When I pause Netflix the colors actually look better (look at her arms) but the lettering on the left side that should be clear are totally washed out:



Thanks.
In case anyone is having the same issues, I figured out the problem. My HDMI cable was not passing along all of the colors it should. I popped it out of the back of the Xbox One and reseated it and everything looked good again.

I am ordering a new cable. I had no idea this was even a possibility - I always thought an HDMI cable either sends the signal or it doesn’t. The bad colors have happened twice now and each time I was able to fix it by unplugging the cable and plugging it back in. It isn’t moving so sometimes I guess it just decides to not push those colors through. Really weird but I’m super relieved it isn’t an issue with my projector.
 

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Hi All! First, thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, which helped me a lot if deciding to purchase a new-to-me DLA-X770 (=RS520 if I understand correctly).
I have a couple quick questions which I couldn't answer by searching, even though I'm sure the info is hidden somewhere in the 262 pages of this thread:

1) My lamp has 1760 hours. How much am I missing here? I have a completely light-controlled room so do I really need the extra brightness a new (expensive) lamp would bring? Perhaps for HDR? Would it be a good idea to buy one now before they don't exist anymore? What's the preferred source for lamps (I'm in Canada)?

2) Calibration: I really like the concept of the JVC auto calibration solution since I could do one, then redo it as the lamp wears and colors/brightness shift, or redo it if I change something in the room (darker surfaces etc.) or the screen. However, it seems only specific meters can be used, and there's some gamma issue that can arise to mess everything up? Would I be better off going to another calibration solution (as automated as possible)? I have no idea what professional ISF/THX technicians charge for a calibration but I'm assuming it's not much less than the price of a meter...

3) Clear Motion Drive, even on low, does give me a little camcorder/soap opera effect, which could sometimes be an acceptable tradeoff for a lot of added smoothness on panning camera movements and the like. However, am I the only one to notice a significant lag, most easily detected as lip sync issue whenever the Low Latency function is set to off (thereby allowing CMD)? Any drawback to using Low Latency other than no CMD?
Are people inserting a kind of "lip-sync correction" to delay the audio at the source when they have Low Latency turned off? If so, by how much?

4) I will soon get a Panasonic blu-ray player, which I understand will do tone mapping to maximize HDR content quality on the projector. Should I get the 820 or is the 420 sufficient? 420 doesn't have Dolby Vision but would this be at all useful with a projector? I am not sure what the best settings will be for both the projector and 420/820, is there a reference post somewhere I couldn't find?

5) I will also get an HDFury Vertex to get high res audio through HDMI to my receiver that cannot handle 4K. I saw somewhere there were some settings for the Vertex that were specific to JVC projectors, could someone direct me to those please?

Thanks!
 

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Hi All! First, thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, which helped me a lot if deciding to purchase a new-to-me DLA-X770 (=RS520 if I understand correctly).
I have a couple quick questions which I couldn't answer by searching, even though I'm sure the info is hidden somewhere in the 262 pages of this thread:

1) My lamp has 1760 hours. How much am I missing here? I have a completely light-controlled room so do I really need the extra brightness a new (expensive) lamp would bring? Perhaps for HDR? Would it be a good idea to buy one now before they don't exist anymore? What's the preferred source for lamps (I'm in Canada)?

2) Calibration: I really like the concept of the JVC auto calibration solution since I could do one, then redo it as the lamp wears and colors/brightness shift, or redo it if I change something in the room (darker surfaces etc.) or the screen. However, it seems only specific meters can be used, and there's some gamma issue that can arise to mess everything up? Would I be better off going to another calibration solution (as automated as possible)? I have no idea what professional ISF/THX technicians charge for a calibration but I'm assuming it's not much less than the price of a meter...

3) Clear Motion Drive, even on low, does give me a little camcorder/soap opera effect, which could sometimes be an acceptable tradeoff for a lot of added smoothness on panning camera movements and the like. However, am I the only one to notice a significant lag, most easily detected as lip sync issue whenever the Low Latency function is set to off (thereby allowing CMD)? Any drawback to using Low Latency other than no CMD?
Are people inserting a kind of "lip-sync correction" to delay the audio at the source when they have Low Latency turned off? If so, by how much?

4) I will soon get a Panasonic blu-ray player, which I understand will do tone mapping to maximize HDR content quality on the projector. Should I get the 820 or is the 420 sufficient? 420 doesn't have Dolby Vision but would this be at all useful with a projector? I am not sure what the best settings will be for both the projector and 420/820, is there a reference post somewhere I couldn't find?

5) I will also get an HDFury Vertex to get high res audio through HDMI to my receiver that cannot handle 4K. I saw somewhere there were some settings for the Vertex that were specific to JVC projectors, could someone direct me to those please?

Thanks!
I believe all Panasonic bd players will deliver static tone mapping whic is far from optimal and error prone if based on HDR Metadata. Much of the Metadata is wrong and a static map doesnt handle the inevitable changes in max cll that occur in scenes as brightness changes throughout the film. I think all static solutions are Metadata based. I used a static tone mapping solution for a year or two and then bought a lumagen processor that does dynamic tone mapping. This is an outstanding and future proofed solution that I will run until my 620 dies. I recommended looking into a dtm solution.
 
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I believe all Panasonic bd players will deliver static tone mapping whic is far from optimal and error prone if based on HDR Metadata. Much of the Metadata is wrong and a static map doesnt handle the inevitable changes in max cll that occur in scenes as brightness changes throughout the film. I think all static solutions are Metadata based. I used a static tone mapping solution for a year or two and then bought a lumagen processor that does dynamic tone mapping. This is an outstanding and future proofed solution that I will run until my 620 dies. I recommended looking into a dtm solution.
Thanks for your answer. However, purchasing a video processor worth more than my projector is a non-starter for me; I will have to "get by" with the second-best solution of a Panasonic 420/820 player. I'm just not sure if I should get the 820 which supports Dolby Vision or if the 420 will be enough since my projector won't come close to approaching the Dolby Vision specs. But perhaps the 820 can do some useful tone mapping on the small amount of DV content out there?
 

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This makes me think the Panasonic 820 will NOT do any tone mapping on Dolby Vision and that therefore I would not gain anything from it over the 420: Panasonic UB820 4K Blu-ray Player Review: Your Flexible Friend

"Panasonic’s unique HDR Optimizer feature, meanwhile, lets you tell the player what peak brightness your display is capable of, so that it can ‘tone map’ HDR10 content (it doesn’t work with Dolby Vision or HDR10+) before outputting it to your display."

Is that right?
 
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