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I updated my original post to include a new version of the zip file - the curves are the same as before, but the conf files are now included. See the "Edit" note at the bottom of that post for more details: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/2222586-official-jvc-rs600-rs500-x950r-x750r-x9000-x7000-owners-thread-772.html#post51658777
Thanks again for doing this...your medium conf file works perfectly with my screen and I don't have to adjust the parameters at all to set brightness and contrast using the RM files. I have the JVC & Oppo set at zeros for CN & BR as well. When I have some time, I am going to use your guide and see what I get...:)

As a reminder, I have a 130" wide Center Stage XD AT screen, RS-400, Oppo 203 & Linker...
 

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I'm going to do it tonight. I'm looking at lovingdvds steps now and am a bit confused by step 15, specifically the bbi, bbo part.

The Harry Potter UHD's are up next so I know I'll need a special, extraordinarily bright curve for them.
bbi bbo are for setting black levels...do you have the 4k patterns to properly set black levels?
I think I'd keep things simple at the stage of the game, and not worry about black level, bbi, bbo, etc. Just do the main adjustment using the Contrast control, and call it a night. See what you think and go from there.
 

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bbi bbo are for setting black levels...do you have the 4k patterns to properly set black levels?
I've got the Sony test patterns.

I think I'd keep things simple at the stage of the game, and not worry about black level, bbi, bbo, etc. Just do the main adjustment using the Contrast control, and call it a night. See what you think and go from there.
Ok. When I did the black/white clip patterns before I was only 2-clicks away from what's recommended.
 

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I've got the Sony test patterns.



Ok. When I did the black/white clip patterns before I was only 2-clicks away from what's recommended.
If you're talking about the Sony test patterns on a regular Blu-ray, then that's not going to give you what you need for setting levels with UHD Blu-ray.

If you're talking about the Sony test patterns on a UHD Blu-ray, I don't believe they have the Black patterns, and I found the White patterns to be almost unusable - they're very brief, and don't flash.

To do this effectively, you would need Ryan Masciola's HD10 patterns. So unless things seem really off after doing the main curve, I wouldn't worry about black level just now.
 

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If you're talking about the Sony test patterns on a regular Blu-ray, then that's not going to give you what you need for setting levels with UHD Blu-ray.



If you're talking about the Sony test patterns on a UHD Blu-ray, I don't believe they have the Black patterns, and I found the White patterns to be almost unusable - they're very brief, and don't flash.



To do this effectively, you would need Ryan Masciola's HD10 patterns. So unless things seem really off after doing the main curve, I wouldn't worry about black level just now.
I was referring to the Sony UHD patterns.

What is the benefit of the flashing? I mainly hear about people talking about test pattern 77 and 81 (I think) and those levels are available on the Sony disc and I just hit the pause button and it stays up forever.

I'm not opposed to buying things but if I have something that works...

I also have a Spyder 5. I know I can put that to use. The goal is to get it 90% there now and fine tune after I can absorb the info in Manni's thread that seems to start with "In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth"...2000 pages later, go forth and tune your JVC. :D

I just feel like the way my projector is operating UHD now is artificially darkening the entire picture too dark and drab so that the brightest image appears blinding (which creates very unpleasant images when skies and such are present) whereas the regular Blu-ray provides a pleasing image the entire time.
 

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I was referring to the Sony UHD patterns.

What is the benefit of the flashing? I mainly hear about people talking about test pattern 77 and 81 (I think) and those levels are available on the Sony disc and I just hit the pause button and it stays up forever.

I'm not opposed to buying things but if I have something that works...

I also have a Spyder 5. I know I can put that to use. The goal is to get it 90% there now and fine tune after I can absorb the info in Manni's thread that seems to start with "In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth"...2000 pages later, go forth and tune your JVC. :D

I just feel like the way my projector is operating UHD now is artificially darkening the entire picture too dark and drab so that the brightest image appears blinding (which creates very unpleasant images when skies and such are present) whereas the regular Blu-ray provides a pleasing image the entire time.
Again, are you talking about the Sony patterns on a Regular Sony Blu-ray, or the Sony patterns on a Sony UHD Blu-ray?

In order to get the HDR patterns, you need to use the ones on a Sony UHD Blu-ray. I have tried this, and found they are not nearly as comprehensive as on a regular Blu-ray, and not nearly as useful. Perhaps the particular Sony UHD Disc I used was atypical, but perhaps not.

I really think that doing a straight-forward custom curve using the Contrast Adjustment method in lovingdvd's post will get you 90% of what you're looking for.

Autocalibration is a tougher nut to crack, and probably should be done, but for now, just see what you get HDR looking like with the custom curve approach.
 

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Again, are you talking about the Sony patterns on a Regular Sony Blu-ray, or the Sony patterns on a Sony UHD Blu-ray?



In order to get the HDR patterns, you need to use the ones on a Sony UHD Blu-ray. I have tried this, and found they are not nearly as comprehensive as on a regular Blu-ray, and not nearly as useful. Perhaps the particular Sony UHD Disc I used was atypical, but perhaps not.



I really think that doing a straight-forward custom curve using the Contrast Adjustment method in lovingdvd's post will get you 90% of what you're looking for.



Autocalibration is a tougher nut to crack, and probably should be done, but for now, just see what you get HDR looking like with the custom curve approach.
UHD discs. I may be green...but not THAT green. ;)

Thanks for the info. I plan to watch some shows to let the projector warm up then do lovingdvds instructions followed by Harry Potter 6.

David Yates you brightness draining minx. I will conquer your darkness.
 

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Being that I'm a total noob at front projection (or any projection for that matter) I would be grateful if any traveling calibrators that service Metro ATL shoot me a pm.

Thanks
 

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I was talking to him last night and it sounds like he is constantly improving his Gamma curves for HDR.

Just curious, what size and type screen do you have? Also- were you using SDR 2020 prior to him coming?
Thanks.


I have a Stewart " Luxus Model A Electriscreen" made with FireHawk G3 material.
I purchased it in 2007 and way back then it cost a whopping $3500.:D


Ray
 

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...I'm also using LD's speed guide and find it works very well (and takes like 7min!)...
They don't call it the speed guide for nothin' :)

If your screen size is greater than 100 inches diagonal then there is a good chance that Manni's curves are not going to look good to you; especially not the 800 curve. As suggested use lovingdvd's instructions for the JVC Tool contrast method to create your own curve. It is so easy to do and the first one I created was so much better in my setup than any I had previously imported that were created by others.
In addition to trying the speed guide, for those with less than 100 nits, I would try importing my Medium jgd curve from the zip file I posted. I watched the first Planet Earth II with my medium curve and it was fantastic. No HDR oddities which is a big win. I switched over to my darker curve on a few scenes to make sure I was not crushing (at least not in an obvious way) and for each A/B I found that the darker curve looked identical, just darker - confirming that the extra brightness I was getting from the medium curve was not impacting the color saturation or causing noticeable crush. That said it probably has less HDR highlights than compared to the dark version, but I like the medium much better, even if it is a bit more SDR-like (guessing). On the contrary. when looking at the snowy mountain in the opening scene with the Bright curve, it was blooming pretty significantly in certain portions. Switching to the Medium curve showed no blooming. It's quite nice to finally be fully content with both my calibration and HDR curve and overall PQ. Whew. That was at least 100-120 hour exercise. :eek:

bbi bbo are for setting black levels...do you have the 4k patterns to properly set black levels?
He'll need at least the wip branch of Arve's tool. Otherwise he won't find those params, which may be his source of confusion.

Thanks again for doing this...your medium conf file works perfectly with my screen and I don't have to adjust the parameters at all to set brightness and contrast using the RM files. I have the JVC & Oppo set at zeros for CN & BR as well. When I have some time, I am going to use your guide and see what I get...:)

As a reminder, I have a 130" wide Center Stage XD AT screen, RS-400, Oppo 203 & Linker...
I have a Stewart " Luxus Model A Electriscreen" made with FireHawk G3 material.
I purchased it in 2007 and way back then it cost a whopping $3500.:D

Ray
Great! Very happy to hear others are benefiting from my curve. It was a ton of work so the more people that get good use out of it the better I feel about all the time invested learning how to do it and experimenting to find the proper "blend".
 

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They don't call it the speed guide for nothin' :)



In addition to trying the speed guide, for those with less than 100 nits, I would try importing my Medium jgd curve from the zip file I posted. I watched the first Planet Earth II with my medium curve and it was fantastic. No HDR oddities which is a big win. I switched over to my darker curve on a few scenes to make sure I was not crushing (at least not in an obvious way) and for each A/B I found that the darker curve looked identical, just darker - confirming that the extra brightness I was getting from the medium curve was not impacting the color saturation or causing noticeable crush. That said it probably has less HDR highlights than compared to the dark version, but I like the medium much better, even if it is a bit more SDR-like (guessing). On the contrary. when looking at the snowy mountain in the opening scene with the Bright curve, it was blooming pretty significantly in certain portions. Switching to the Medium curve showed no blooming. It's quite nice to finally be fully content with both my calibration and HDR curve and overall PQ. Whew. That was at least 100-120 hour exercise. :eek:



He'll need at least the wip branch of Arve's tool. Otherwise he won't find those params, which may be his source of confusion.





Great! Very happy to hear others are benefiting from my curve. It was a ton of work so the more people that get good use out of it the better I feel about all the time invested learning how to do it and experimenting to find the proper "blend".
Not sure where my setup fits on the NIT scale. I'm using a 110" 16:9 Stewart ST100 with a 1.0 gain. Throw from my JVC is around 12'. The dark curve seems to look great for my setup. Thanks. SJ
 

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UHD discs. I may be green...but not THAT green. ;)
Interesting. I'll have to take another look at the Sony UHD Patterns. When I tried them before, there was a series of perhaps 6 solid color patterns, and then a single, very brief, pattern showing white bars. That only stayed up for a few seconds, so I had to hit pause to use them at all. After that, it returned to the original Top Menu.

Are you seeing more patterns than this, or some Menu for them?
 

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Interesting. I'll have to take another look at the Sony UHD Patterns. When I tried them before, there was a series of perhaps 6 solid color patterns, and then a single, very brief, pattern showing white bars. That only stayed up for a few seconds, so I had to hit pause to use them at all. After that, it returned to the original Top Menu.

Are you seeing more patterns than this, or some Menu for them?
No menu. There are 23 chapters of test colors/patterns that are a few seconds long each. The last 3 is what you're after and have the black/white clipping patterns. They are vertical bands / swatches going from black to white with actual values for each level/step from 0 to 10000 nits. You have to pause it and it does go back to the menu right after the last white clip patterns if you don't pause it. I skip though to the black pattern and then pause it. So far so good.

I'm sure the R. Mascoila patterns are great, but I like that the Sony disc has actual values They list the levels as 0.000, 0.001, 0.005, 0.010 instead of test pattern 77, 81, etc. Also, pretty much everyone should have a Sony UHD disc by now.
 

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No menu. There are 23 chapters of test colors/patterns that are a few seconds long each. The last 3 is what you're after and have the black/white clipping patterns. They are vertical bands / swatches going from black to white with actual values for each level/step from 0 to 10000 nits. You have to pause it and it does go back to the menu right after the last white clip patterns if you don't pause it. I skip though to the black pattern and then pause it. So far so good.

I'm sure the R. Mascoila patterns are great, but I like that the Sony disc has actual values They list the levels as 0.000, 0.001, 0.005, 0.010 instead of test pattern 77, 81, etc. Also, pretty much everyone should have a Sony UHD disc by now.
Perhaps I missed a bunch of them waiting for the HDMI sync. Will recheck another time.

But they should be lasting several minutes, not several seconds, to give you time to make the necessary adjustments. Having the bars flash improves your ability to see when you've reached the correct adjustment point. The RM Patterns do this. And as long as the patterns have some units on them, they're all fine. The PDF with RM's indicate which bars you're looking for, so there's no problem using them even if they're not labeled in nits.

My problem is that my Philips UHD Player will not play the RM HDR patterns on a USB stick. A firmware upgrade is supposed to address this, but it hasn't happened yet. And Ryan is also supposed to be coming out with a UHD Bluray Disc with his patterns, which would also solve my problems, but this hasn't happened yet either.
 

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Perhaps I missed a bunch of them waiting for the HDMI sync. Will recheck another time.



But they should be lasting several minutes, not several seconds, to give you time to make the necessary adjustments. Having the bars flash improves your ability to see when you've reached the correct adjustment point. The RM Patterns do this. And as long as the patterns have some units on them, they're all fine. The PDF with RM's indicate which bars you're looking for, so there's no problem using them even if they're not labeled in nits.



My problem is that my Philips UHD Player will not play the RM HDR patterns on a USB stick. A firmware upgrade is supposed to address this, but it hasn't happened yet. And Ryan is also supposed to be coming out with a UHD Bluray Disc with his patterns, which would also solve my problems, but this hasn't happened yet either.
Yeah. The Sony disc doesn't have the flash feature but the clip patterns are there. If you can pause you get unlimited minutes. :)

Just don't get skip happy getting to the clip patterns or you'll blow right past them and end up back at the menu.
 

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Being that I'm a total noob at front projection (or any projection for that matter) I would be grateful if any traveling calibrators that service Metro ATL shoot me a pm.

Thanks
This sticky thread in the calibrations forum is where you want to post

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/586330-isf-calibrators-where-you-located-please-post-here.html

If you use the search within a thread for Atlanta, I'm sure previous posts will pop up in the thread linked above.

Also, ChadB is a well respected calibrator that travels, as well as Lion AV and Kevin Miller also travel. Using google and their names with isf calibration would bring up contact information. ChadB should show up in member list and you can send him a pm or use the search within this thread for his posts.

Ron
 

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Not sure where my setup fits on the NIT scale. I'm using a 110" 16:9 Stewart ST100 with a 1.0 gain. Throw from my JVC is around 12'. The dark curve seems to look great for my setup. Thanks. SJ
This is a very rough estimate but if we guestimate you are getting 1250 lumens including taking some off there for bulb aging you are probably around 115 nits, +/- 10 nits or so, in high lamp. Subtract 20-25% for low lamp. If you have a light meter we can tell you for sure.
 

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I just followed lovingdvd's contrast adjust.

I did 3 curves at contrast -28, -14 & -5.

I used a Doomsday explosion in BvS.

They all looked good during those explosion scenes but the darker curves look bad elsewhere.

For example, take 0:10:25 in BvS (The Caribbean scene). With a dark curve, does that really look like a bright sunny Caribbean to you? No.

For BvS I'm definitely preferring the -5 contrast auto curve.

Lovingdvd suggested different curves for different nit discs...is there a list somewhere of UHD discs listed by max nits? 1000, 4000 nits, etc?
 

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This is a very rough estimate but if we guestimate you are getting 1250 lumens including taking some off there for bulb aging you are probably around 115 nits, +/- 10 nits or so, in high lamp. Subtract 20-25% for low lamp. If you have a light meter we can tell you for sure.
Then that explains why it looks great! Thanks again for providing. SJ
 

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This sticky thread in the calibrations forum is where you want to post

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/586330-isf-calibrators-where-you-located-please-post-here.html

If you use the search within a thread for Atlanta, I'm sure previous posts will pop up in the thread linked above.

Also, ChadB is a well respected calibrator that travels, as well as Lion AV and Kevin Miller also travel. Using google and their names with isf calibration would bring up contact information. ChadB should show up in member list and you can send him a pm or use the search within this thread for his posts.

Ron
Unfortunately it looks like Chad was just there in Feb but he can check out his website and contact him from there too. ;)
 
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