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Your DI is broken, it seems. You should start conversing with a JVC customer service or better through your dealer.
Edit. Just to be fool proof, so you choose the manual option among the Auto 1, Auto 2 and Manual, which then "un-greys" the -15 to 0 slider. And you then proceed to move the slider between -15 to 0. And you hear no motorized sounds and no change of brightness, correct?
Just saw your edit:

Precisely. One has to be in Manual aperture mode in order to move the aperture slider. The slider responds to the remote, shifting from 0 to -15, but the aperture itself doesn't change. I ran back and forth through the range from 0 to -15, multiple times, in the hopes of 'unjamming' it, but it remains at the same aperture.
 

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And when you clamp down from 0 Don you don't hear a motorized sound every Other click down (and the brightness should noticeably change to darker)??
He has a 400, so no dual iris or change every other click. But it should close down.
 

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Just saw your edit:

Precisely. One has to be in Manual aperture mode in order to move the aperture slider. The slider responds to the remote, shifting from 0 to -15, but the aperture itself doesn't change. I ran back and forth through the range from 0 to -15, multiple times, in the hopes of 'unjamming' it, but it remains at the same aperture.
Going from 0 to -15 is a huge change, not subtle, so it would be very easy to see, without looking at the iris. I don't think any kind of reset is going to fix this, since it is a mechanical part that is not working, not software related. I think you are going to have to send the unit in. Do not hear of this type of problem often.
 

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Going from 0 to -15 is a huge change, not subtle, so it would be very easy to see, without looking at the iris. I don't think any kind of reset is going to fix this, since it is a mechanical part that is not working, not software related. I think you are going to have to send the unit in. Do not hear of this type of problem often.
Yeah, that's what I was expecting to hear...

What is the typical JVC turn-around time? I guess I pay shipping one or both ways? Or since it's still within the warranty, do they take care of that?

Really bummed about this... It has been flawless until now...

Don
 

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Yeah, that's what I was expecting to hear...

What is the typical JVC turn-around time? I guess I pay shipping one or both ways? Or since it's still within the warranty, do they take care of that?

Really bummed about this... It has been flawless until now...

Don
You pay to ship to them and they repair for free and pay to ship back to you. Figure a week at repair center at least, plus travel time.
http://shop.mendtronix.com/site/templates/jvc-projector-repair-services.html
 

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I would try a factory reset first just to be sure. It won't wipe your auto cal stuff, only reset all the settings you have in the menus. Just take a picture of them with your phone for taking the PJ back to those quickly.
 

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I would try a factory reset first just to be sure. It won't wipe your auto cal stuff, only reset all the settings you have in the menus. Just take a picture of them with your phone for taking the PJ back to those quickly.
True at this point you have nothing to lose by trying it.
 

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I would try a factory reset first just to be sure. It won't wipe your auto cal stuff, only reset all the settings you have in the menus. Just take a picture of them with your phone for taking the PJ back to those quickly.
Yeah, that makes sense.

I'm also slightly tempted to just leave it as is - when I use High Lamp for HDR and 3D, I'm at 0 aperture anyway, given my large screen (160" diagonal 2.35:1, Gain 1.3, Throw 18') and non-bat-cave room. And while I was at -8 for SDR/Rec709, it still looks pretty good the way it is now.

Such a huge hassle to remove it from the ceiling mount, pack/ship it, and then rehang it. It's a 2-3 person job.

By the way, is there a way for me to determine what the aperture opening really is right now? It seems more toward the open side, but how can I be more precise?
 

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Thanks for the link and sympathy!

Shining a flashlight in when the Projector is off, what I'm seeing appears round, with no obvious diamond-shaped opening as shown in the picture in the graphics at that link. I'll take a more careful look when it's on the next time (trying to avoid blinding myself!).

If so, that confirms my impression that the Aperture is most likely stuck in the fully open position.

Don
 
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Thanks for the link and sympathy!

Shining a flashlight in when the Projector is off, what I'm seeing appears round, with no obvious diamond-shaped opening as shown in the picture in the graphics at that link. I'll take a more careful look when it's on the next time (trying to avoid blinding myself!).

If so, that confirms my impression that the Aperture is most likely stuck in the fully open position.

Don
I know it's probably not the case but just checking, you're not testing HDR without a linker, right? The iris is stuck in fully open position when HDR content is detected unless you use a Linker to disable the HDR flag and get the DI back. You would be able to adjust the opening with the menu, but the iris would go back to fully open as soon as you leave the menu. It doesn't sound like what you describe, but it would be good to rule this out for sure.
 

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Yeah, that makes sense.

I'm also slightly tempted to just leave it as is - when I use High Lamp for HDR and 3D, I'm at 0 aperture anyway, given my large screen (160" diagonal 2.35:1, Gain 1.3, Throw 18') and non-bat-cave room. And while I was at -8 for SDR/Rec709, it still looks pretty good the way it is now.

Such a huge hassle to remove it from the ceiling mount, pack/ship it, and then rehang it. It's a 2-3 person job.

By the way, is there a way for me to determine what the aperture opening really is right now? It seems more toward the open side, but how can I be more precise?
All kidding aside I was going to suggest the same thing unless you can physically take it to a repair facility (I wouldn't ship it if it's golden other than this issue). Good luck tho! ;)
 

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I know it's probably not the case but just checking, you're not testing HDR without a linker, right? The iris is stuck in fully open position when HDR content is detected unless you use a Linker to disable the HDR flag and get the DI back. You would be able to adjust the opening with the menu, but the iris would go back to fully open as soon as you leave the menu. It doesn't sound like what you describe, but it would be good to rule this out for sure.
I appreciate the reply and suggestion, Manni.

But unfortunately, I'm seeing this with just plain old Blu-ray on my regular Blu-ray player. No linker or other device in the chain.

Good thought, though - I was hoping I made a similar 'bone-head' mistake, but so far it doesn't seem that way.
 

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All kidding aside I was going to suggest the same thing unless you can physically take it to a repair facility (I wouldn't ship it if it's golden other than this issue). Good luck tho! ;)
I have been thinking the exact same thing - I'd hate to have this problem fixed, and have the back and forth shipping result in other problems.

The nearest repair facility is outside Atlanta - about a 4 1/2 hour drive for me, so it is possible to bring it there, and drive back to pick it up, should I decide to get it repaired.

Don I wouldn't send that back without doing a factory reset first. document your settings the best you can.

Do you know how to do it, it's in the service menu (up/down/left/right/center)

I just did this the other week on my RS600 after reverting to my original init file and it's a quick process.
Yeah, it would be foolish to not try that first, if I were intent on getting it fixed.

Doing a factory reset shouldn't be much of an issue - if I've managed to learn Autocal, and Arve's Custom Curves, this should be pretty simple!

I did wonder why you reverted to the original init file when you did yours. Is there a specific reason or recommendation for doing it that way?

I really appreciate all the help I receive here, provided so generously and promptly!

Don
 

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I did wonder why you reverted to the original init file when you did yours. Is there a specific reason or recommendation for doing it that way?

I really appreciate all the help I receive here, provided so generously and promptly!

Don
i've done so much tinkering and autocals over the last few months I just wanted to start clean and re-load the original INIT file + factory reset and start over. It wasn't necessary but felt good to do it anyway.

I have 4 users profiles I switch between SDR Low, HDR Low, HDR High and 3D High. JVC makes this very easy to have these unique configurations, the Sony GUI is a major pain in this regard.

keep us posted if you have any positive results after the reset.
 

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I have been thinking the exact same thing - I'd hate to have this problem fixed, and have the back and forth shipping result in other problems.



The nearest repair facility is outside Atlanta - about a 4 1/2 hour drive for me, so it is possible to bring it there, and drive back to pick it up, should I decide to get it repaired.







Yeah, it would be foolish to not try that first, if I were intent on getting it fixed.



Doing a factory reset shouldn't be much of an issue - if I've managed to learn Autocal, and Arve's Custom Curves, this should be pretty simple!



I did wonder why you reverted to the original init file when you did yours. Is there a specific reason or recommendation for doing it that way?



I really appreciate all the help I receive here, provided so generously and promptly!



Don


Recently,I had my projector repaired at the Mendtronix facility in Atlanta. They have a really nice service. However, expect like a 3 week turn around.
They normally inspect the unit a day or two after it is received. Then, if new parts are needed, they will request them from JVC and that add another week. After they receive them, it takes like a day or so to repair, fully inspect the unit and ship it back to you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Don I wouldn't send that back without doing a factory reset first. document your settings the best you can.

Do you know how to do it, it's in the service menu (up/down/left/right/center)

I just did this the other week on my RS600 after reverting to my original init file and it's a quick process.
I think it is (up/down/right/left/center)
 
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