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Most here create custom user presets for BD, 3D, 4K HDR, 4K SDR bt.2020 and perhaps 4K SDR rec 709. I might tweak a little at beginning of movie, but usually I don't have to. It does require some time setting up each preset, but is well worth it. Once these are created you just select user preset from remote based on material being played. Or if you have the ability to create macros in your remote you can setup a macro that makes all the selections for you.
Hi HTPCat,

Would you mind sharing your settings with me for these presets for BD, 3D, 4K HDR, 4K SDR bt2020? I am new to RS500 but would like to take a shortcut by just starting with what you get? Thanks.
 

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To clarify one of your points, SDR uses 8-bit color - 256 bits with bit 16 representing black and bit 235 representing white, as you noted.

HDR10 (ST.2084) is 10-bit - 1024 bits with bit 64 representing black and bit 940 representing the max HDR luminance. HDR white (100 nits) is at the 50% point of the 64-940 range - bit 438.
Hi, some corrections, according to the SMPTE ST.2084 EOTF, 50% Point which called reference white (normal diffuse white)is 99.19nits with 509.509.509 RGB Triplet for TV Legal (Video) Levels. (438.438.438 you mention is 42.7% Grey = 43.41 nits). 509 is the closest bit to 100nits since the 510 goes 101.05nits.
 

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I have a few questions and theories I would like to run through the expert members of the forum.

Am I right to assume that the hdr to sdr trick can also be achieved using a lumagen pro? Or is hd fury still needed?
I believe that lumagen pro has options to turn rec.2020 and hdr on/off separately.
So I would guess that ideally one could calibrate a 3d lut based on a 1886 gamma and rec.2020 gamut...and this would be awesome.
My guess is that the hdr to sdr conversion is still being done by the panasonic player (use of lumagen pro)?
But what really happens when we trick our player to convert hdr to sdr? Is there clipping of highlights? Did anybody test this?
See copy of the same question(below) from the Lumagen thread. Apparently it can be done and this is good since I have a Lumagen Pro 4440 sitting idle while I sort out other issues with players etc. I received a new 4K Panasonic UB900 Friday and installed the HD Fury in the chain with my RS600. BT2020 4K HDR>SDR is incredible, far better than anything I could achieve with 4K from the Sammy regardless of the settings .Really excited to replace the Fury with the Lumagen but first have to get this setup dialed in. Will give it a while then install the Lumagen, ditch the Fury and enter the world of calibration.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill DePalma
Quick question
I will soon be getting the Panasonic UHD player and hope to pass the BT2020 profile minus HDR.
Am I correct in assuming the Lumagen Pro is capable of passing BT2020 with SDR and not HDR? Or, would I need an Integral to accomplish this?
Playing with settings on my Lumagen Pro being fed by a Samsung UHD player, I don't see a setting for passing BT 2020 with SDR?
Thanks


If you go in to Global Settings - Video there are options to selectively a turn on/off both BT2020 and HDR.
 

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If you have a well calibrated unit, like many of us do, who both used Autocal, and, or, manual colour and gamma calibration along with most importantly test patterns to actually set our contrast and brightness clipping controls to ensure there is no clipping going on at the reference level, then you should NOT have to, under any circumstances, alter your picture settings whatsoever. It's set and forget if you calibrate to Rec.709 standards, you never ever have to touch your controls. If a film doesn't look right, its not meant to look right at that point.
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Carry on :)

I appreciate what you said. I've always had a problem with people accepting Directors Intent cart blanche without some level of scrutiny and push back when the post production facility botched the blu ray release. Listed below are a few "incidences" where informed audiences noted and/or pushed back on the blu ray release ... some of the push back actually resulted in blu rays being re-released. :)


4K Oblivion: image detail is no longer reference quality. Hopefully, it will be re-released.


I'm sure many remember all the issues with DNR (Digital Noise Reduction) and Edge Enhancement done on blu rays: 2k Gladiator was re-released in part due to DNR ... why re-release it if it was Director's Intent? I remember applying for and getting at least 2 blu ray re-releases due these issues.


"However, I've seen some films where it looked like an idiot took DNR to the extreme." came from this thread on DNR and Edge Enhancement: http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=209585&page=2


I assume most have seen plastic looking faces on Patton 40th Anniversary and Predator blu rays? :D


Ridley Scott never graded blu ray Prometheus ... so there's no Director's Intent for blu ray Prometheus? ... just an approximation by the post production facility. :eek:


All the over and under exposed blu rays I mentioned were analyzed on a rec709 calibrated Penta Broadcast Monitor: http://www.hd2line.com/products/hd2line/ :)
This monitor has a gamma between off and 5.0. lol.


It would better serve the film industry if a more informed audience would push back against Director's Intent when it's warranted. Most of the blu ray movies are very good. Some are bad. With these bad ones, I sometimes get a feeling that people hide behind Director's Intent. Lazy comes to mind ... or maybe some post production houses are better than others ... just like some calibrators are better than others. :)
 

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See copy of the same question(below) from the Lumagen thread. Apparently it can be done and this is good since I have a Lumagen Pro 4440 sitting idle while I sort out other issues with players etc. I received a new 4K Panasonic UB900 Friday and installed the HD Fury in the chain with my RS600. BT2020 4K HDR>SDR is incredible, far better than anything I could achieve with 4K from the Sammy regardless of the settings .Really excited to replace the Fury with the Lumagen but first have to get this setup dialed in. Will give it a while then install the Lumagen, ditch the Fury and enter the world of calibration.
wow that processor is expensive, I just saw someone selling one used for $4K US. What is your main goal with this unit? Do you also own a calibrated meter + CP or Calman?

I have a Lumagen mini 3D and a 2041. That reminds me to finally put the 2041 for sale, it was used exactly 2 times. With the autocal and a spyder 5, you can get very close to reference for minimal cost. Learning calibration with the Lumagen + CP or Calman can be a long deep dive + learning curve. These were great years ago when the color gamut and gamma were off by a good margin on the various projectors. Today they are quite close out of the box with tweaks that can be done with autocal or a basic CP / Calman cal.

There is no real point in using them for scaling, especially when a player like the UB900 does a great job with BD content.
 

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It would better serve the film industry if a more informed audience would push back against Director's Intent when it's warranted. Most of the blu ray movies are very good. Some are bad. With these bad ones, I sometimes get a feeling that people hide behind Director's Intent. Lazy comes to mind ... or maybe some post production houses are better than others ... just like some calibrators are better than others. :)
Nobody's saying every disc is perfect, we all know there are botched discs out there. But that doesn't make the reverse true, that it's the wild west, and it's up to the end user to figure each title out on their own.

If you've calibrated your display to the correct standard (generally Rec.709 and BT.1886 or the appropriate gamma), you shouldn't have to tweak it for every title. If you notice something odd, more likely than not, it's supposed to be that way (like the green vs blue casts of The Matrix). Of course there are always outliers with botched discs or messed up content, but those are rather rare, and you can usually confirm that pretty quickly with a trip to google.

DLCPhoto, it is of course your prerogative to tweak however you want. Frankly I don't find the need or that it's worth the effort. Of course I don't look at other people's content like I look at my own photos, I don't feel the need to try and improve the content, that's not my job when watching someone else's work.

Regarding your cable box, if there is a calibration issue with it, it's likely to be an all or nothing sort of thing, if it's crushing blacks, it's doing it for everything, there's realistic reason you'd have to calibrate differently for each show you watch. I'd try and find something (record it if possible) that's got a good bit of black in it. Turn off the Auto Iris, then with just the brightness control, adjust it so that black is the same level as when you use the "Hide" command in the JVC. Unless you can find someone who broadcasts test patterns like HDnet used to do.

I've never had to do anything special for Dark Matter, but then again, like I said above I'm not watching it to evaluate the quality of the grading.
 

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Hi, some corrections, according to the SMPTE ST.2084 EOTF, 50% Point which called reference white (normal diffuse white)is 99.19nits with 509.509.509 RGB Triplet for TV Legal (Video) Levels. (438.438.438 you mention is 42.7% Grey = 43.41 nits). 509 is the closest bit to 100nits since the 510 goes 101.05nits.
I pulled 438 as the value for for reference white from this post, and I assume that everything that I read on the internet is true. ;) If the 50% point of the 64 - 940 range is reference white, bit 438 seemed to be the right number since 940 - 64 x .5 = 438. These things would be clearer if I could just reference ST.2084 directly, but the only download site that I've seen for that doc charges $80. :(

Thanks for the enlightenment!
 

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The FOURTHPHASE 4K Trailer

Hi Guys
I had to drop out of this thread months ago due to me not having an HDR UHD bluray player yet and a gazillion posts on tweaking HDR settings to get them to play reasonably well, starting with the Samsung player. Am holding out for the Oppo and fervent hope it will again have Darbee processing, but now in 4K and with hopefully a pass thru function so other 4K or UHD sources can take advantage of "the Darbee". Has there been any news of that yet?

I searched back a few pages and saw no mention of this new trailer yet .... looks like more than worthy kind of a sequel to The Art of Flight with Travis Big Balls Rice. The point of view footage looks amazing from GoPro who has partnered with Red Bull going forward for marketing and content production ..... plus of course Red Bull Media House's always s.o.t.a. filming gear and use of planes and helicopters.

This trailer only appeared a few days ago and I have not seen it outside in my theater yet with the RS500 fed 4K from Youtube. Has anyone else seen it yet in that manner? Am guessing WOW!!! Can't wait for the movie and 4K bluray.


 

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DLCPhoto, it is of course your prerogative to tweak however you want. Frankly I don't find the need or that it's worth the effort. Of course I don't look at other people's content like I look at my own photos, I don't feel the need to try and improve the content, that's not my job when watching someone else's work.

Regarding your cable box, if there is a calibration issue with it, it's likely to be an all or nothing sort of thing, if it's crushing blacks, it's doing it for everything, there's realistic reason you'd have to calibrate differently for each show you watch. I'd try and find something (record it if possible) that's got a good bit of black in it. Turn off the Auto Iris, then with just the brightness control, adjust it so that black is the same level as when you use the "Hide" command in the JVC. Unless you can find someone who broadcasts test patterns like HDnet used to do.

I've never had to do anything special for Dark Matter, but then again, like I said above I'm not watching it to evaluate the quality of the grading.
I appreciate the reply and suggestions. You may be right as far as the TWC box doing whatever it does for all that it outputs. To be honest, I really haven't watched much TV other than Dark Matter with my Projector (I have a VT60 series Panasonic Plasma in another room for more casual TV watching). The Projector room has been 95% or more Blu-ray.

I think I'm kind of "tuned in" to looking for and wanting to see shadow detail, in part because of my photography experience, and partly because I'm new to Projectors, and wanting to get the most I can out of mine.

I'll play around with your suggestions, and hopefully maintain the bulk of my JVC Autocalibration, with relatively small tweaks to bring out the shadow detail I prefer. If so, I'll just have a saved preset with these settings, to use when I'm watching TWC TV. The rest of the time, I'll have the 'regular' settings, based on JVC Autocal and Disney WOW, for Blu-ray.

I do think that Carbon Ft Print has a point regarding the Blu-rays we buy, where they are not always the perfect creation that we would want. When that's the case, I don't think there is anything unreasonable about tweaking the settings as needed, for those few situations.
 

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wow that processor is expensive, I just saw someone selling one used for $4K US. What is your main goal with this unit? Do you also own a calibrated meter + CP or Calman?

I have a Lumagen mini 3D and a 2041. That reminds me to finally put the 2041 for sale, it was used exactly 2 times. With the autocal and a spyder 5, you can get very close to reference for minimal cost. Learning calibration with the Lumagen + CP or Calman can be a long deep dive + learning curve. These were great years ago when the color gamut and gamma were off by a good margin on the various projectors. Today they are quite close out of the box with tweaks that can be done with autocal or a basic CP / Calman cal.

There is no real point in using them for scaling, especially when a player like the UB900 does a great job with BD content.
Long story why I have the Lumagen Pro but I started out thinking to do a simple calibration, I ended up with this beast. I was going to keep my Sony VW600 and bridge the next wave of projectors two years away.
By keeping the VW600 I would want to do a calibration since one has never been done before and I do not have a pro that I can call on because I do not live in a major center. A Lumagen Pro would allow me to do the calibration, stretch 4K and the software when available, allow mapping of 4K HDR. I would essentially have faux HDR on my projector. I actually started off looking for a lower end Lumagen to start but found the PRO at a really good price and figured it would last through the next two tiers of projectors.

Then my dealer calls me up and offers me a rocking deal on the JVC RS600 that I couldn't turn down, the VW600 sold and here I am. Don't really need the Lumagen as the JVC autocal and Spider5 would do . I actually listed the Lumagen, if it sells fine, if not I have a bit of homework to do in the calibration end .:p


I purchased Chromapure with autocal and picked up the i1 display 3 pro. The calibration process will not start until late fall, going to enjoy things the way they are for now, dig in when the leaves start to fall .;)
 

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I appreciate what you said. I've always had a problem with people accepting Directors Intent cart blanche without some level of scrutiny and push back when the post production facility botched the blu ray release.


Most of the blu ray movies are very good. Some are bad. With these bad ones, I sometimes get a feeling that people hide behind Director's Intent. Lazy comes to mind ... or maybe some post production houses are better than others ... just like some calibrators are better than others. :)

Hi, Carbon. I understand what you're saying. But I think there's more to it than that for me. After calibrating my X750 with Autocal V7 and also manually w/i1disp3, everything has looked great and I haven't had the need to go to different settings for anything but UHD discs.

As for "lazy," I'm thinking you're joking in a way. This is the RS500/600 thread, the enthusiast's machine thread, and to be sure these owners will look for any excuse to tinker around with the many calibration tools at their disposal. The real issue, I think, is whether calibrating to disc as opposed to standard is worth it when it opens the door to subjective results.
 

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Long story why I have the Lumagen Pro but I started out thinking to do a simple calibration, I ended up with this beast. I was going to keep my Sony VW600 and bridge the next wave of projectors two years away.
By keeping the VW600 I would want to do a calibration since one has never been done before and I do not have a pro that I can call on because I do not live in a major center. A Lumagen Pro would allow me to do the calibration, stretch 4K and the software when available, allow mapping of 4K HDR. I would essentially have faux HDR on my projector. I actually started off looking for a lower end Lumagen to start but found the PRO at a really good price and figured it would last through the next two tiers of projectors.

Then my dealer calls me up and offers me a rocking deal on the JVC RS600 that I couldn't turn down, the VW600 sold and here I am. Don't really need the Lumagen as the JVC autocal and Spider5 would do. I actually listed the Lumagen, if it sells fine, if not I have a bit of homework to do in the calibration end .:p

I purchased Chromapure with autocal and picked up the i1 display 3 pro. The calibration process will not start until late fall, going to enjoy things the way they are for now, dig in when the leaves start to fall .;)
A Radiance Pro can give you a 17x17x17 3D LUT cal with a true tone mapped HDR to SDR output after Lumagen releases their LUT shaping FW update and the calibration SW vendors release their Lumagen patches. JVC's CMS is crude in comparison to what the Radiance offers. It all depends on how picky you are about accuracy.

Many pro calibrators will travel out of town if you're willing to pay their expenses.
 

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wow that processor is expensive, I just saw someone selling one used for $4K US. What is your main goal with this unit? Do you also own a calibrated meter + CP or Calman?

I have a Lumagen mini 3D and a 2041. That reminds me to finally put the 2041 for sale, it was used exactly 2 times. With the autocal and a spyder 5, you can get very close to reference for minimal cost. Learning calibration with the Lumagen + CP or Calman can be a long deep dive + learning curve. These were great years ago when the color gamut and gamma were off by a good margin on the various projectors. Today they are quite close out of the box with tweaks that can be done with autocal or a basic CP / Calman cal.

There is no real point in using them for scaling, especially when a player like the UB900 does a great job with BD content.

Why are you keeping the mini Jason? I sold mine this past spring. ;)
 

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I pulled 438 as the value for for reference white from this post, and I assume that everything that I read on the internet is true. ;) If the 50% point of the 64 - 940 range is reference white, bit 438 seemed to be the right number since 940 - 64 x .5 = 438. These things would be clearer if I could just reference ST.2084 directly, but the only download site that I've seen for that doc charges $80. :(

Thanks for the enlightenment!
The post you used as reference has errors also...for example: ''0.1nit would be at 6% input so step 53 (876*0.06''....this is incorrect... the correct way is: 0.1 nit = 6.27% = 119

@ ST.2084 PQ Curve each bit from 64 (0 nits) until 940 (10.000 nits) has specific luminance level defined by Dolby, it's Golden Reference data's.

Even if you pay these $80 to get these numbers, it's illegal to post them at public.

Since I got that file, I posted the correct codes for you and for the others which reading that thread. ;)
 

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Need opinions and advice on recent RS600 purchase

Greetings to all,

I wanted to turn to the forum for advice on a recent RS600 purchase. Mike Garrett has been extremely helpful to this point and I really really love the picture being put out by this unit thus far. However there are a couple of issues that have me wondering whether I should exchange the projector or not.

First off, I'm had issues getting a perfectly square picture. I was able to get 3 corners perfect, but the 4th would not square out. Through more tinkering with projector mount location, I was able to get an almost-square picture except for a bow at the bottom of the image. Mike suggested zooming past the bow if focus and convergence was good (focus looks good to me, not sure about convergence), but I swear Oppo's horizontal menu looks like it droops to the left. The projector is ceiling mounted with a Big Chief mount.

Second issue is the stock JVC remote doesn't work well at all. If I point it at the rear IR sensor, it works better-- but still has issues. I'm now using a Harmony univ. remote, it works much better than the JVC remote-- but after more time with it, I'm noticing it is unresponsive at times as well.

Third: I noticed this issue today
. The video shows a strange video artifact when modifying the "Motion Enhance" settings. The problem persists when content is playing as well. Not sure if I'm overreacting, because the video artifact never makes an appearance when watching content. It only happens when I specifically modify the "Motion Enhance" settings. I also thought it was strange the CMD was a greyed out option on this menu. It becomes available when a HDMI signal is being sent to the input.

Fourth (long): Just a few moments ago I turned on the projector to watch a video-- I did not see the DILA logo at start and the front light was off, AVR, and bluray player were OFF. I Could see light emitting from the iris of the PJ, but nothing on screen.


I then turned on the AVR, and the screen quickly flashed a grey noisey pattern. Thought it was an HDMI cable issue, so I reseated the cables. Powered off the AVR and bluray, powered them back on... same issue (i did not power cycle the PJ at this point). I then turned the projector off with the universal remote. I could not see anything on the screen, just hoping that a double press of the power button was good enough (it was) and the projector turned off.

I waited a few minutes and turned the projector back on. This time the DILA screen appeared and went to the usual blue screen. I did some tinkering in the AVR menu to get OSD for volume control and watched some content. Afterward, I tried powering off the PJ using the universal remote and the remote was unresponsive.

Convergence: I don't know much about what a good sample or a bad sample is. When displaying the white-grid pattern. I can see a thin blue line below the horizonal white line and a thin green line above the white line. From my seating position, I can not detect and blue or green lines. I tried to snap a picture of the convergence pattern, but without much luck,

I would greatly appreciate any insight or advice on how to proceed here. Mostly want to make sure I'm not overreacting to anything. The artifacts generated while changing Motion Enhance seem (to me) like reason enough consider an exchange. I'm not sure if the HDMI issues are PJ related or cable related--but we have watched a movie already (no HDMI static/noise/etc that would indicate a bad cable). Its a heavy HDMI cable and I worry that those bulky cables cause issues for a cable sitting comfortably in the socket.

Again, thanks for any comments and insight you can provide.
 

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Why are you keeping the mini Jason? I sold mine this past spring. ;)
mainly for the pattern generator when I use CP. It also works in 3D mode so it helps with the 3D calibrations through the glasses.

i've been floored with the UHD / SDR / WCG combo. genuinely excited now about the UHD format. I go back and forth with the HDR but for some reason keep going back the SDR WCG. I guess it's the BT1886 gamma I'm used to, running -10, auto 2, etc so the overall behavior the projector feels the same when watching BD content except the overall cleaner image + WCG and the same low APL peformance + FTB.

As bizarre as Lucy is (never saw it till friday night) it's hard to believe how good it looks on the RS600 with this setup.


JB 3D import is here, we have 8 people for a viewing tonight so charging all the 105RF glasses with this cool charger. I think you recommended it or something similar?

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-Multi-Port-PowerPort/dp/B00YRYS4T4
 

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Greetings to all,

I wanted to turn to the forum for advice on a recent RS600 purchase. Mike Garrett has been extremely helpful to this point and I really really love the picture being put out by this unit thus far. However there are a couple of issues that have me wondering whether I should exchange the projector or not.


Again, thanks for any comments and insight you can provide.

If this was a new machine I would discuss w/ Mike on having it exchanged. Could be a flaky video board or something (mine does not do this nor have I ever had an issue with the DILA logo not appearing). Depending on your mount point to the screen (should be right above your top border), along w/ material I've heard of remote issues but even with my transparent material my JVC remote never misses a beat (w/ good batteries of course). Lastly if you go back to the beginning you'll see a LOT of people complaining about the squareness of the image to screen (but all I know of including me had it fixed by re-centering your image then either moving your screen to accommodate or using horiz. shift). ;)
 

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Well, first off, not fully understanding the many functions doesn't equate with NOT having an impressive out of the box image.

Second, try to not complicate things for yourself.

Simply, overall image brightness mostly has to do with lumens/lambertion...how much light output is coming from the projector/reflected back at you from the screen.

Black level is the display's ability in accurately reproduce black in the image. Since black appears as an absence of light in projection displays, the better the unit's capability to do so, the better the black level.
Here's where JVC has taken the lead!

As for gamma, it involves encoded luminance/encoding of grays and can be managed via color temperature and the overlay of the primary colors red, blue, and green (for imaging purposes as green is really a secondary color in the spectrum [yellow+blue]). While gamma (and color) calibration can impact brightness, gamma is separate from brightness (adjusting black) and contrast (adjusting white) settings. Gamma brightness emphasizes highlights in the scale, while gamma darkness emphasizes darkness.

These items should be set in conjunction with a particular iris setting, as the iris positioning affects all of the above settings, especially light output.
There are typically 3 ranges of brightness in a picture when one watches a movie: shadows (dark), mid-tones and highlights (bright). To set up this brightness range on the projector, one has to get their arms around the entire brightness range first by dialing in the lowest intensity/brightness level (black level) and the highest intensity/brightness level (white level). JVC's brightness and contrast controls are used to make those adjustments. Since these adjustments can affect color, one must make sure the 3 RGB color channels are not clipping at the white level nor being crushed prematurely at the black level ... usually I use Ted's Calibration Disk for this.


Between this single lowest intensity/brightness point (black level: 16,16,16) and the single highest intensity/brightness point (white level 235,235,235) is a range of brightness controlled by JVC's gamma/EOTF controls. For HDR, one uses Gamma D. This brightness range consists of dark levels (shadows), mid-tone levels and bright levels (highlights). That's where Dark Level, Picture Tone and Bright Level comes from. This range of brightness does not include the black or white level but its range is determined by the black and white level ... so when the projector blub is not bright enough, increasing PT can give a brighter looking picture, even though the white intensity level does not change. The mid-tone (Picture Tone) brightness range is where most the action is in a movie ... except at night where the protagonist is in a jungle being hunted by a black leopard! lool.

Btw, tone means gray color, no hue or saturation. Getting the gray color to look D65 gray is important because its the non color (shades of grey) channel (Y) that has all the image information for a movie (YCrCb). JVC has other controls to set the D65 gray scale and prevent any discoloration. Your question had to do with brightness levels.
Good info here, definitely copy and paste :D
 

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Greetings to all,

I wanted to turn to the forum for advice on a recent RS600 purchase. Mike Garrett has been extremely helpful to this point and I really really love the picture being put out by this unit thus far. However there are a couple of issues that have me wondering whether I should exchange the projector or not.
If this was a new machine I would discuss w/ Mike on having it exchanged.

I read that someone (maybe it was rHarkness ?? just not sure) had a similar experience a few months ago and had it exchanged. The only problem I have been having lately is a flapping noise of the internal fan at start up. I will have to look into how to clean the fan without voiding the warranty. I have close to 1500 hours so I am not sure if that is normal. Like kricter1 says, definitely give your dealer a call.
 

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mainly for the pattern generator when I use CP. It also works in 3D mode so it helps with the 3D calibrations through the glasses.

i've been floored with the UHD / SDR / WCG combo. genuinely excited now about the UHD format. I go back and forth with the HDR but for some reason keep going back the SDR WCG. I guess it's the BT1886 gamma I'm used to, running -10, auto 2, etc so the overall behavior the projector feels the same when watching BD content except the overall cleaner image + WCG and the same low APL peformance + FTB.

As bizarre as Lucy is (never saw it till friday night) it's hard to believe how good it looks on the RS600 with this setup.


JB 3D import is here, we have 8 people for a viewing tonight so charging all the 105RF glasses with this cool charger. I think you recommended it or something similar?

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-Multi-Port-PowerPort/dp/B00YRYS4T4

Thanks for the feedback and enjoy (we really enjoyed it in 2D and your subs will get BLOWED up on some scenes too)! I am working w/ a local A/V guy here who wants to buy my K8500 & Samsung UHD video pack for $350 so if that goes thru I'll order the Panny (too many trusted sources like yourself who are Oogling over this not to do it! and if the Oppo blows it away too then I'll ask "Santa" for that too!). :D

Those chargers work great especially for my 10 row 3D shelf system. ;)
 
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