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Have you had any sort of calibration done on your JVC and Panasonic?

My JVC has been calibrated, but not tweaked since I added the Panasonic.
In watching "The Intern" on Saturday night, I initially thought maybe it was a little red on a few scenes but after reading the blu-ray review it sounds like it was how it was shot.

Everything else I have watched, has looked great with zero red push...unlike my previous Samsung.
No calibration , I'm on my own in that regard. I'm too far in Bob's country:D to have a calibration person available . The movie I watched was The Huntsman, faces looked at times to be a tad red but as you say may have been a part of what the producer intended. The movie had a dark undertone and many orange/red fire lamps used in almost every scene. I'll watch a few movies before I make any assumptions, regardless, a calibration will be required at some point. I've hit the 160 hour mark, the lamp should be settled down by now I would expect.:p
 

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No calibration , I'm on my own in that regard. I'm too far in Bob's country:D to have a calibration person available . The movie I watched was The Huntsman, faces looked at times to be a tad red but as you say may have been a part of what the producer intended. The movie had a dark undertone and many orange/red fire lamps used in almost every scene. I'll watch a few movies before I make any assumptions, regardless, a calibration will be required at some point. I've hit the 160 hour mark, the lamp should be settled down by now I would expect.:p
You really ought to try and have a go with your Lumagen Pro, its a great bit of kit, and with the likes of Calman etc, calibration of the 3D LUT is really quite straight forward, and largely automated. The increase in picture quality from having a properly calibrated 3D LUT is worth the effort and learning curve.

In addition when Calman etc eventually release a working calibration workflow/LUT for HDR in the Pro we should finally be able to get a well calibrated HDR image (and possibly with the outgoing HDR flags removed by the Lumagen so we can (hopefully) use the RS600's DI).
 

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Hi HTPCat,

Would you mind sharing your settings with me for these presets for BD, 3D, 4K HDR, 4K SDR bt2020? I am new to RS500 but would like to take a shortcut by just starting with what you get? Thanks.
My media room is in process of some remodeling, so I don't have access to the projector. Maybe Monday. I used zombie10k settings for BD. You can find those linked in his signature. For 4K HDR and 4K SDR I used mostly Javs settings.
 
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The law of diminishing returns applies I would think. Once you reach a certain level, every incremental step beyond that is much more complicated, less noticeable and much more expensive. To be honest what I saw on my screen last night running the UB900 -> Fury -> RS600 was near nirvana , albeit just a tad dim. This is definitely a new level of experience, it's what keeps this hobby so interesting. :p
That being said I did notice a slight red push to flesh tones,a calibration of any level would likely tweak the colors.
The problem is that there is no way at this moment to calibrate the grayscale to "perfection" when using HDR and that is why you see a red push in fleshtones. This will also differ from unit to unit and some might get a green push and so on, this and many other problems is why I don´t think HDR is a good idea at the moment and probably will not look very good on projectors from a calibrators point of view in quite a while. I will check out and calibrate a 2016 flagship LG OLED (don´t remember the model name) in a few weeks and I will bring my Panasonic UHD player and some discs to see how it performs with HDR.
 

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The problem is that there is no way at this moment to calibrate the grayscale to "perfection" when using HDR and that is why you see a red push in fleshtones. This will also differ from unit to unit and some might get a green push and so on, this and many other problems is why I don´t think HDR is a good idea at the moment and probably will not look very good on projectors from a calibrators point of view in quite a while. I will check out and calibrate a 2016 flagship LG OLED (don´t remember the model name) in a few weeks and I will bring my Panasonic UHD player and some discs to see how it performs with HDR.
The HDR is stripped , using the HD Fury, so were are seeing SDR WCG BT2020 . Not sure if your theory still applies in this situation , not sure it's red push or intentional either. My feelings about HDR
overall are like yours certainly, but most of my comments/frustration are from trying to work with the Samsung K8500 and other bleeding edge issues with HDMI cables etc.
 

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The HDR is stripped , using the HD Fury, so were are seeing SDR WCG BT2020 . Not sure if your theory still applies in this situation , not sure it's red push or intentional either. My feelings about HDR
overall are like yours certainly, but most of my comments/frustration are from trying to work with the Samsung K8500 and other bleeding edge issues with HDMI cables etc.
With UHD SDR my theory is not valid.:)

Have you calibrated it in SDR?

And you need to get rid of the Samsung if you want the best UHD SDR picture available today and get the Panasonic, or just wait a couple of months (rumors) for the Oppo...;)
 

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Greetings to all,

I wanted to turn to the forum for advice on a recent RS600 purchase. Mike Garrett has been extremely helpful to this point and I really really love the picture being put out by this unit thus far. However there are a couple of issues that have me wondering whether I should exchange the projector or not.

First off, I'm had issues getting a perfectly square picture. I was able to get 3 corners perfect, but the 4th would not square out. Through more tinkering with projector mount location, I was able to get an almost-square picture except for a bow at the bottom of the image. Mike suggested zooming past the bow if focus and convergence was good (focus looks good to me, not sure about convergence), but I swear Oppo's horizontal menu looks like it droops to the left. The projector is ceiling mounted with a Big Chief mount.

Second issue is the stock JVC remote doesn't work well at all. If I point it at the rear IR sensor, it works better-- but still has issues. I'm now using a Harmony univ. remote, it works much better than the JVC remote-- but after more time with it, I'm noticing it is unresponsive at times as well.

Third: I noticed this issue today Google Video Link. The video shows a strange video artifact when modifying the "Motion Enhance" settings. The problem persists when content is playing as well. Not sure if I'm overreacting, because the video artifact never makes an appearance when watching content. It only happens when I specifically modify the "Motion Enhance" settings. I also thought it was strange the CMD was a greyed out option on this menu. It becomes available when a HDMI signal is being sent to the input.

Fourth (long): Just a few moments ago I turned on the projector to watch a video-- I did not see the DILA logo at start and the front light was off, AVR, and bluray player were OFF. I Could see light emitting from the iris of the PJ, but nothing on screen.


I then turned on the AVR, and the screen quickly flashed a grey noisey pattern. Thought it was an HDMI cable issue, so I reseated the cables. Powered off the AVR and bluray, powered them back on... same issue (i did not power cycle the PJ at this point). I then turned the projector off with the universal remote. I could not see anything on the screen, just hoping that a double press of the power button was good enough (it was) and the projector turned off.

I waited a few minutes and turned the projector back on. This time the DILA screen appeared and went to the usual blue screen. I did some tinkering in the AVR menu to get OSD for volume control and watched some content. Afterward, I tried powering off the PJ using the universal remote and the remote was unresponsive.

Convergence: I don't know much about what a good sample or a bad sample is. When displaying the white-grid pattern. I can see a thin blue line below the horizonal white line and a thin green line above the white line. From my seating position, I can not detect and blue or green lines. I tried to snap a picture of the convergence pattern, but without much luck,

I would greatly appreciate any insight or advice on how to proceed here. Mostly want to make sure I'm not overreacting to anything. The artifacts generated while changing Motion Enhance seem (to me) like reason enough consider an exchange. I'm not sure if the HDMI issues are PJ related or cable related--but we have watched a movie already (no HDMI static/noise/etc that would indicate a bad cable). Its a heavy HDMI cable and I worry that those bulky cables cause issues for a cable sitting comfortably in the socket.

Again, thanks for any comments and insight you can provide.
Sent you an email this morning regarding aligning the projector with the screen. Sounds like the problem with the IR may be the projector and not the remote. If you can't see the convergence from your seat, then I would not worry about it, but it may be a mute point, if we are exchanging.
 

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If this was a new machine I would discuss w/ Mike on having it exchanged. Could be a flaky video board or something (mine does not do this nor have I ever had an issue with the DILA logo not appearing). Depending on your mount point to the screen (should be right above your top border), along w/ material I've heard of remote issues but even with my transparent material my JVC remote never misses a beat (w/ good batteries of course). Lastly if you go back to the beginning you'll see a LOT of people complaining about the squareness of the image to screen (but all I know of including me had it fixed by re-centering your image then either moving your screen to accommodate or using horiz. shift). ;)
Yes, I think the alignment is setup issue, but the remote not working looks like the projector. Earlier we thought it was the remote, based on how the universal remote was working fine, at first.
 

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Second issue is the stock JVC remote doesn't work well at all. If I point it at the rear IR sensor, it works better-- but still has issues. I'm now using a Harmony univ. remote, it works much better than the JVC remote-- but after more time with it, I'm noticing it is unresponsive at times as well.
Check to see if there's some peel off protective plastic covering the IR sensors. I can't remember if there is, but if there is and you haven't removed it, that might explain why your pj isn't responsive to the remote.

If that's not it, try fresh batteries in the remote.
 

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Check to see if there's some peel off protective plastic covering the IR sensors. I can't remember if there is, but if there is and you haven't removed it, that might explain why your pj isn't responsive to the remote.
Great advice!! I'm pretty sure there wasn't any to begin with, but its worth trying out.

I still wonder what people think of the video glitch I'm getting--if I should even be concerned with it or what. But it is happening consistently and regardless of whether a device is connected to that input.

Edit: Definitely tried fresh batteries in the remote. The JVC remote is the least responsive. The Harmony Elite works most of the time, but has been unresponsive at times.

 

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With UHD SDR my theory is not valid.:)

Have you calibrated it in SDR?

And you need to get rid of the Samsung if you want the best UHD SDR picture available today and get the Panasonic, or just wait a couple of months (rumors) for the Oppo...;)
Have the Panasonic UB900 it arrived on Friday past. Stripped of UHD running SDR BT2020 WCG through the Fury is incredible , a new level of immersion indeed. Still a tad dim but the detail
of 4K and WCG BT2020 is a treat that I did not expect. Manni figured this out, listed his settings a few pages back.

No, have not done a calibration SDR but now that I have 160 hours on the lamp and things are FINALLY starting to work, that is next on the agenda. My Lumagen Pro is too much for now will
probably just do a simple WOW calibration and wait until the fall. I have the JVC Autocal program but my i1 Display 3 pro does not work with that. I have Chromapure with autocal for the Lumagen.
 

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Any Nvidia Shield TV owners in this thread? Can you help confirm if the Netflix on Shield plays HDR titles on JVS RS400/RS500/RS600? Or use SPMC to play some HDR demo clips? What mode is it in, like 4K60 4:2:2 10-bit or 4K60 4:2:0 8-bit?

I'm an Epson 5040ub owner, but can't get Shield to play HDR at all. So I'm thinking switching to JVC, but would like to first make sure HDR videos can be played from Shield TV on this projector. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Great advice!! I'm pretty sure there wasn't any to begin with, but its worth trying out.

I still wonder what people think of the video glitch I'm getting--if I should even be concerned with it or what. But it is happening consistently and regardless of whether a device is connected to that input.

Edit: Definitely tried fresh batteries in the remote. The JVC remote is the least responsive. The Harmony Elite works most of the time, but has been unresponsive at times.

I get that on occasion, as well. It's rather jarring with the black background I use. I just chalk it up to the known HDMI signal lock issues these units are known to exhibit.
 

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Have the Panasonic UB900 it arrived on Friday past. Stripped of UHD running SDR BT2020 WCG through the Fury is incredible , a new level of immersion indeed. Still a tad dim but the detail
of 4K and WCG BT2020 is a treat that I did not expect. Manni figured this out, listed his settings a few pages back.

No, have not done a calibration SDR but now that I have 160 hours on the lamp and things are FINALLY starting to work, that is next on the agenda. My Lumagen Pro is too much for now will
probably just do a simple WOW calibration and wait until the fall. I have the JVC Autocal program but my i1 Display 3 pro does not work with that. I have Chromapure with autocal for the Lumagen.
Your JVC has almost 100% sure got the gamma drop as this most of the time happens around 100 hours and your grayscale is also off by quite a lot so why wait. What do you use to train/profile your colorimeter with?
 

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Have the Panasonic UB900 it arrived on Friday past. Stripped of UHD running SDR BT2020 WCG through the Fury is incredible , a new level of immersion indeed. Still a tad dim but the detail
of 4K and WCG BT2020 is a treat that I did not expect. Manni figured this out, listed his settings a few pages back.

No, have not done a calibration SDR but now that I have 160 hours on the lamp and things are FINALLY starting to work, that is next on the agenda. My Lumagen Pro is too much for now will
probably just do a simple WOW calibration and wait until the fall. I have the JVC Autocal program but my i1 Display 3 pro does not work with that. I have Chromapure with autocal for the Lumagen.
It's still dim? I actually thought the Panny would take care of that. I have the samsung now. Are you adjusting any brightness on the JVC?
 

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Your JVC has almost 100% sure got the gamma drop as this most of the time happens around 100 hours and your grayscale is also off by quite a lot so why wait. What do you use to train/profile your colorimeter with?
Have to wait until I have time to learn the calibration process, have never done this before.What do I use to train my colorimeter? Well, since it's still in the box new have never opened I wouldn't expect it to be off already they are calibrated from the factory I would assume. Geeze, if I need a spectrometer to calibrate my colorimeter then what is needed to train/calibrate the spectrometer ? :eek:

Best I can do on short notice is a disney WOW disc calibration, no training required. Many have said the calibration process with Chromapure/Autocal and Lumagen is simple and mostly automated, my gut feeling is this will take a while to learn. Would be nice to plug and play, I think there is more that needs to be done than that I am guessing. Which it were so. :(
 

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Can anyone confirm whether or not the older model of JVC 3D glasses (PK-AG2-B) will work with the current RS600? The new JVC emitter is PK-EM2G, where these glasses were originally sold as compatible with the JVC synchro emitter PK-EM1. Thanks for any information you can provide!
 

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It's still dim? I actually thought the Panny would take care of that. I have the samsung now. Are you adjusting any brightness on the JVC?
Manni and Zombie posted some settings which I followed to a T, have not deviated from this yet . Samsung 4K was terrible but that was with the HDR . I managed to get the 4K HDR to a
watchable level, always too dim .

I'm going to watch a different movie tonight, something a bit lighter overall . Will pay attention to the brightness and flesh tones , adjust as necessary . Will post my settings tomorrow if it improves
or the movie I watched ( The Huntsman) was supposed to be darker. Maybe the red push and darker tone was intentional, who knows.
 

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Not wrong. It's a frustration of mine. These settings used to be accessible manually and by programs such as CalMAN. Now they are not.

Agreed! but in reality the internal CMS has all but been broken since the RS50 days when instead of JVC fixing it, they scaled it back to the point of it not being very useful for outside sources (I think that's why a lot of even the most experiences calibrators such as Manni use (and like!), AutoCal). ;)
 
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