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Have to wait until I have time to learn the calibration process, have never done this before.What do I use to train my colorimeter? Well, since it's still in the box new have never opened I wouldn't expect it to be off already they are calibrated from the factory I would assume. Geeze, if I need a spectrometer to calibrate my colorimeter then what is needed to train/calibrate the spectrometer ? :eek:

Best I can do on short notice is a disney WOW disc calibration, no training required. Many have said the calibration process with Chromapure/Autocal and Lumagen is simple and mostly automated, my gut feeling is this will take a while to learn. Would be nice to plug and play, I think there is more that needs to be done than that I am guessing. Which it were so. :(
Roxie, your i1D3 was profiled with against a Jeti by Tom Huffman before shipping out so you should not need to re-profile since you haven't even opened the box yet. You do have to re-profile from time to time though, but am not sure what the intervals are. Autocal with the Lumagen/Chromapure/i1D3 is much simpler than using the JVC autocal with the Spyder 5. However, it is definitely worth the time and effort to do the JVC autocal to establish a great baseline. After that, you can always do some final tweaks with Chromapure and the I1D3/Lumagen pro (in your case).
 

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Hi, Carbon. I understand what you're saying. But I think there's more to it than that for me. After calibrating my X750 with Autocal V7 and also manually w/i1disp3, everything has looked great and I haven't had the need to go to different settings for anything but UHD discs.

As for "lazy," I'm thinking you're joking in a way. This is the RS500/600 thread, the enthusiast's machine thread, and to be sure these owners will look for any excuse to tinker around with the many calibration tools at their disposal. The real issue, I think, is whether calibrating to disc as opposed to standard is worth it when it opens the door to subjective results.




Maybe this will help explain things better. Sorry for all the I’s and We’s ahead of time, but can’t explain it any better.


I’m a tweaker. I don’t speak for all tweakers. I do know quite of few like myself. Tweakers first calibrate then we tweak the settings based on what we are seeing on the screen, when warranted. We’re source centric. Calibration to standards is always the first step because we can’t critique source material otherwise. We always have "calibration to stds" settings stored in memory … so they can be recalled at any time despite all our tweaking. If we don’t see anything to change, we may tweak back and forth (and we may try non-std gamuts) anyhow just to “verify” the source is nicely dialed in … from our perspective. Can’t do that without having a calibrated display device. We appreciate well done source material … meaning blu ray movies … and look forward to be amazed.


The yang of Tweakers (yin and yang) are “standards purists”. Their level of patience is zero when it comes to those who use non-standards based color gamuts :rolleyes:… even though JVC has them (cinema, film, ect). Their DNA seems to be devoid of curiosity lol. :D I know quite of few purists. They usually come down very hard if one deviates from standards. I come down hard on studios that botch blu ray movies … so you may see words like lazy used for dramatic effect. Still, we co-exist comfortably because both sides strongly recognize and support an individual’s personal preferences. There are lots of JVC owners who love movies and have calibrated projectors on this thread … that’s why I’m here. :)
 

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No calibration , I'm on my own in that regard. I'm too far in Bob's country:D to have a calibration person available . The movie I watched was The Huntsman, faces looked at times to be a tad red but as you say may have been a part of what the producer intended. The movie had a dark undertone and many orange/red fire lamps used in almost every scene. I'll watch a few movies before I make any assumptions, regardless, a calibration will be required at some point. I've hit the 160 hour mark, the lamp should be settled down by now I would expect.:p

I don't think you need one tho Rox as you have seemingly everything you need to DIY but you do need to spend the time to read & learn about how to actually use what you bought (seems for you to be the biggest challenge; as it is for most here I think… Time!;) ).

What Rick is saying is what a lot do after AutoCal. Once complete you will very close but you could us CP & your i1D3 to fine tune your white balance. ;)
 

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Have to wait until I have time to learn the calibration process, have never done this before.What do I use to train my colorimeter? Well, since it's still in the box new have never opened I wouldn't expect it to be off already they are calibrated from the factory I would assume. Geeze, if I need a spectrometer to calibrate my colorimeter then what is needed to train/calibrate the spectrometer ? :eek:

Best I can do on short notice is a disney WOW disc calibration, no training required. Many have said the calibration process with Chromapure/Autocal and Lumagen is simple and mostly automated, my gut feeling is this will take a while to learn. Would be nice to plug and play, I think there is more that needs to be done than that I am guessing. Which it were so. :(
If you have a good reference (spectroradiometer) you don´t need anything to train it with, but you need to recalibrate the spectro from time to time, every year according to Jeti, Photo Research and the others. But if you take care of it and don´t use it much you can stretch the intervals. I am planning to recalibrate my Jeti around every 3 years as I don´t do that many calibrations each year and keep it in a dark place with even temperature and silica gel in the pelicase.

Calibration is not easy as it takes some experience to do it right, what looks perfect in the report don´t have to look good on screen.
 

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If you have a good reference (spectroradiometer) you don´t need anything to train it with, but you need to recalibrate the spectro from time to time, every year according to Jeti, Photo Research and the others. But if you take care of it and don´t use it much you can stretch the intervals. I am planning to recalibrate my Jeti around every 3 years as I don´t do that many calibrations each year and keep it in a dark place with even temperature and silica gel in the pelicase.

Calibration is not easy as it takes some experience to do it right, what looks perfect in the report don´t have to look good on screen.

So, so true… Book Smarts can never replace field experience (which is why I gave up after years of frustration and left it to a Pro "artist" like ChadB :) ). But for people like Roxie who choose to live in remote areas (a.k.a - another planet :D ), and don't have that as an option at least they have AutoCal to get them close. ;)
 

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Have the Panasonic UB900 it arrived on Friday past. Stripped of UHD running SDR BT2020 WCG through the Fury is incredible , a new level of immersion indeed. Still a tad dim but the detail
of 4K and WCG BT2020 is a treat that I did not expect. Manni figured this out, listed his settings a few pages back.

No, have not done a calibration SDR but now that I have 160 hours on the lamp and things are FINALLY starting to work, that is next on the agenda. My Lumagen Pro is too much for now will
probably just do a simple WOW calibration and wait until the fall. I have the JVC Autocal program but my i1 Display 3 pro does not work with that. I have Chromapure with autocal for the Lumagen.

Really?? All the high-end cash you've spent… you have everything you need (well sans the time maybe ;) ), but you won't spend ~$130 for a Spyder5 to get your AutoCal going?

:eek: :eek: :D

Send me your Lumagen and I'll send you either of my two Spyders (4 Elite or 5 Pro; your choice!). :D
 

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P.S. How does one go about using the JVC in "converting color spaces from rec709 to both cinema and RS2020"? What is the theory and implementation behind this?


Sorry for late reply. Busy.


JVC does this automatically when you're playing a rec709 blu ray movie and select JVC's cinema (close to DCI P3 RGB coordinates) or RS2020 color gamuts. The video lag (vs. audio) everyone talks about with JVC indicates a lot of video math crunching is going on, in part, to make this color space conversion possible. When one converts from one color space to another, matrix algebra (easy math to understand ... all multiplication) is used to do this conversion. If you go to http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...r-calibration-discussion-18.html#post46002609 you'll see that some DCI movies in commercial movie theaters have been graded on rec709 monitors, then color space converted to P3 ... common practice at the time. Sotti replied stating DCI to RS2020 conversion could be done through "simple" matrix algebra http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...r-calibration-discussion-19.html#post46011889. I'm sure JVC color space conversions are proprietary, but IMHO they do this better than any other projector that I know of because the memory colors look so good! :)
 

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Sorry for late replay. Busy.


JVC does this automatically when you're playing a rec709 blu ray movie and select cinema (close to DCI P3 RGB coordinates) or RS2020. The video lag (vs. audio) everyone talks about with JVC indicates a lot of math crunching is going on, in part, to make this color space conversion possible. When one coverts from one color space to another, matrix algebra (easy math to understand ... all multiplication) is used to do this conversion. If you go to http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...r-calibration-discussion-18.html#post46002609 you'll see that some DCI movies in commercial movie theaters have been graded on rec709 monitors, then color space converted to P3 ... common practice at the time. Scotti replied stating DCI to RS2020 conversion could be done through "simple" matrix algebra http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...r-calibration-discussion-19.html#post46011889. I'm sure JVC color space conversions are proprietary, but IMHO they do this better than any other projector that I know of because the memory colors look so good! :)
No worries; thanks for the reply.

I'm not sure I completely follow this (I'm a bit out of my depth here), but am curious about any thoughts you have on jav's comments on this, and the other issues I asked about in this post. I don't mean to stir up disagreements; just wanting to hear multiple views in order to have a more solid understanding.

Don
 

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Roxie, your i1D3 was profiled with against a Jeti by Tom Huffman before shipping out so you should not need to re-profile since you haven't even opened the box yet. You do have to re-profile from time to time though, but am not sure what the intervals are. Autocal with the Lumagen/Chromapure/i1D3 is much simpler than using the JVC autocal with the Spyder 5. However, it is definitely worth the time and effort to do the JVC autocal to establish a great baseline. After that, you can always do some final tweaks with Chromapure and the I1D3/Lumagen pro (in your case).

Figured the same, thanks.
 

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Sorry for late replay. Busy.


JVC does this automatically when you're playing a rec709 blu ray movie and select cinema (close to DCI P3 RGB coordinates) or RS2020. The video lag (vs. audio) everyone talks about with JVC indicates a lot of math crunching is going on, in part, to make this color space conversion possible. When one coverts from one color space to another, matrix algebra (easy math to understand ... all multiplication) is used to do this conversion. If you go to http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...r-calibration-discussion-18.html#post46002609 you'll see that some DCI movies in commercial movie theaters have been graded on rec709 monitors, then color space converted to P3 ... common practice at the time. Scotti replied stating DCI to RS2020 conversion could be done through "simple" matrix algebra http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...r-calibration-discussion-19.html#post46011889. I'm sure JVC color space conversions are proprietary, but IMHO they do this better than any other projector that I know of because the memory colors look so good! :)

I'm so caught up in the great picture I forgot to ask about the audio lag I see you mentioned , thanks for the reminder btw .


So, when displaying a 4K movie from the Panny->Denon 7200Wa->HD Fury->RS600, HDR->SDR BT2020
I am getting a slight audio lag. I think my Denon has some compensation for this but probably best to work
from the Panny on this one. Anyone else having this issue and a solution if possible please?
 

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What Gamma to select for Autocal?

My first JVC Autocal was done a little before my RS400 had 100 hours, and I'm planning on redoing it today or tomorrow, and include BT2020, since I hadn't done that the first time around (I'm hoping to get the Panny DMP-UB900 soon).

I have reviewed Manni01's JVC Autocal thread, especially posts 9 and 10, and want to clarify something:

When I do the full 33-step Gamma+Color calibration, using the "Standard" Color Profile as specified in his posts, what Gamma do I select (or does it matter, since all Gamma's will be calibrated)?

In one paragraph, where he's talking more about BT2020 and HDR, he says to use Gamma "Normal" (as I'm pretty sure I did the first time around, or Gamma 2.4. Which is the preferred Gamma to select?

And connected to this, there is frequent reference to using Gamma 2.3 or 2.4, with Black Level up 2 clicks, to get a close approximation to BT1886. Should these adjustments be dialed in *before* the Autocal, or *after*?

Just want to make sure I get it completely right.

Thanks.
 

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Manni and Zombie posted some settings which I followed to a T, have not deviated from this yet . Samsung 4K was terrible but that was with the HDR . I managed to get the 4K HDR to a watchable level, always too dim .

I'm going to watch a different movie tonight, something a bit lighter overall . Will pay attention to the brightness and flesh tones , adjust as necessary . Will post my settings tomorrow if it improves or the movie I watched ( The Huntsman) was supposed to be darker. Maybe the red push and darker tone was intentional, who knows.
If HDR is too dim:
- Switch to High Lamp.
- Open the aperture. (Use manual mode.)
- Raise the Contrast. The Contrast setting in the main menu makes a huge difference in the overall image brightness when viewing HDR content.

If you're still not satisfied with HDR, switch to SDR. Since you have a Radiance Pro you don't need an Integral to do that. There's an HDR setting in the Pro's Global menu that can disable it. SDR looks much better to me since it maintains your Brutal Contrast Monster black levels. Why give those up if you don't have to?
 

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I'm so caught up in the great picture I forgot to ask about the audio lag I see you mentioned , thanks for the reminder btw .


So, when displaying a 4K movie from the Panny->Denon 7200Wa->HD Fury->RS600, HDR->SDR BT2020
I am getting a slight audio lag. I think my Denon has some compensation for this but probably best to work
from the Panny on this one. Anyone else having this issue and a solution if possible please?


With HDR, the K8500's audio delay is manually set to 240ms. Your results may vary. :)
 

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I recently emailed Oppo Digital with regards to whether or not their upcoming player will be capable of internally "stripping" HDR to SDR BT2002 (without the need for a device such as Integral FuryHD. This was their reply:

"HDR to SDR and SDR to HDR are things that we are considering, but at the moment we do not know the final specifications of the UHD players."

I'm still keeping my fingers crossed..........

On another subject, is anyone out there able to answer my question form an earlier post today regarding the compatibility of the JVC PK-AG2-B 3D glasses with the RS600?
 
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Maybe this will help explain things better. Sorry for all the I’s and We’s ahead of time, but can’t explain it any better.


I’m a tweaker. I don’t speak for all tweakers. I do know quite of few like myself. Tweakers first calibrate then we tweak the settings based on what we are seeing on the screen, when warranted. We’re source centric. Calibration to standards is always the first step because we can’t critic source material otherwise. We always have "calibration to stds" settings stored in memory … so they can be recalled at any time despite all our tweaking. If we don’t see anything to change, we may tweak back and forth (and we may try non-std gamuts) anyhow just to “verify” the source is nicely dialed in … from our perspective. Can’t do that without having a calibrated display device. We appreciate well done source material … meaning blu ray movies … and look forward to be amazed.


The yang of Tweakers (yin and yang) are “standards purists”. Their level of patience is zero when it comes to those who use non-standards based color gamuts :rolleyes:… even though JVC has them (cinema, film, ect). Their DNA seems to be devoid of curiosity lol. :D I know quite of few purists. They usually come down very hard if one deviates from standards. I come down hard on studios that botch blu ray movies … so you may see words like lazy used for dramatic effect. Still, we co-exist comfortably because both sides strongly recognize and support an individual’s personal preferences. There are lots of JVC owners who love movies and have calibrated projectors on this thread … that’s why I’m here. :)
That's one pretty good explanation.
 

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With HDR, the K8500's audio delay is manually set to 240ms. Your results may vary. :)
''


Thanks for the reply. I'm running the Panny UB900 now probably will have similar setting, will check later.
 

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If HDR is too dim:
- Switch to High Lamp.
- Open the aperture. (Use manual mode.)
- Raise the Contrast. The Contrast setting in the main menu makes a huge difference in the overall image brightness when viewing HDR content.

If you're still not satisfied with HDR, switch to SDR. Since you have a Radiance Pro you don't need an Integral to do that. There's an HDR setting in the Pro's Global menu that can disable it. SDR looks much better to me since it maintains your Brutal Contrast Monster black levels. Why give those up if you don't have to?

I'm running SDR now . Stripped 4K HDR using the Panny > HD Fury > RS600 BT2020 WCG . Will play with the settings a little more , not too far off really . Colors are incredible, contrast is excellent but will try to find the right balance.
 
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So, so true… Book Smarts can never replace field experience (which is why I gave up after years of frustration and left it to a Pro "artist" like ChadB :) ). But for people like Roxie who choose to live in remote areas (a.k.a - another planet :D ), and don't have that as an option at least they have AutoCal to get them close. ;)

Does this look like another planet?:rolleyes: Ok, just a little. Went flying yesterday 6:30 AM took a picture of my Mom's old homestead along the coast.
 

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Greetings fellow JVCers...

You may recall that a while back I tried to spearhead a group buy for a spare bulb for the RS600/500/400s.

Unfortunately, that effort kind of died on the vine. We never made it to the required 10 participants, and we even had some folks from the initial list that opted out.

And, on top of that, I didn't stay with it like I should have. And for that I apologize to those that were still interested. I just got pulled too many ways, and wasn't able to keep the push going. In fact, even though I keep a couple of windows open on some of the threads I'm interested in, I don't think I have actually read a single post for over a month...

So, I haven't looked through the thread, at all, to see if there have been other postings about this. The reason I'm posting this now is that I just reloaded one of the windows that I keep open on the forum, and noticed that I had a PM on the subject of the group buy.

Sorry for the let-down.

- s.west
 
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