AVS Forum banner

14021 - 14040 of 32885 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,902 Posts
Greetings fellow JVCers...

You may recall that a while back I tried to spearhead a group buy for a spare bulb for the RS600/500/400s.

Unfortunately, that effort kind of died on the vine. We never made it to the required 10 participants, and we even had some folks from the initial list that opted out.

And, on top of that, I didn't stay with it like I should have. And for that I apologize to those that were still interested. I just got pulled too many ways, and wasn't able to keep the push going. In fact, even though I keep a couple of windows open on some of the threads I'm interested in, I don't think I have actually read a single post for over a month...

So, I haven't looked through the thread, at all, to see if there have been other postings about this. The reason I'm posting this now is that I just reloaded one of the windows that I keep open on the forum, and noticed that I had a PM on the subject of the group buy.

Sorry for the let-down.

- s.west

Ah don't worry too much. By the time the bulb is ready to go, a lot of the owners will be on the JVC laser by then. :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,039 Posts
With HDR, the K8500's audio delay is manually set to 240ms. Your results may vary. :)

I set the delay to 70ms on the Panasonic looks about right now. Thanks for the tip.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Carbon Ft Print

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,039 Posts
If HDR is too dim:
- Switch to High Lamp.
- Open the aperture. (Use manual mode.)
- Raise the Contrast. The Contrast setting in the main menu makes a huge difference in the overall image brightness when viewing HDR content.

If you're still not satisfied with HDR, switch to SDR. Since you have a Radiance Pro you don't need an Integral to do that. There's an HDR setting in the Pro's Global menu that can disable it. SDR looks much better to me since it maintains your Brutal Contrast Monster black levels. Why give those up if you don't have to?

Increased the contrast looks much better. I do have the Lumagen Pro 4440 BTW, still not in the chain. :eek: May insert in the chain later this week or weekend.
 
  • Like
Reactions: henrich3

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,375 Posts
Fourth (long): Just a few moments ago I turned on the projector to watch a video-- I did not see the DILA logo at start and the front light was off, AVR, and bluray player were OFF. I Could see light emitting from the iris of the PJ, but nothing on screen.


I then turned on the AVR, and the screen quickly flashed a grey noisey pattern. Thought it was an HDMI cable issue, so I reseated the cables. Powered off the AVR and bluray, powered them back on... same issue (i did not power cycle the PJ at this point). I then turned the projector off with the universal remote. I could not see anything on the screen, just hoping that a double press of the power button was good enough (it was) and the projector turned off.

I waited a few minutes and turned the projector back on. This time the DILA screen appeared and went to the usual blue screen.
I read that someone (maybe it was rHarkness ?? just not sure) had a similar experience a few months ago and had it exchanged.
I have had, and am still having, the same issue. It sometimes goes for weeks without issue but the other day I had the flashing lights syndrome twice in a row before it would then power up normally. I think it was DavidHir that had his replaced and then had no problem, so I might have to do that too - but my lack of bright corners is telling me otherwise!

I've tried multiple things to try and resolve it (starting the projector a few seconds after everything else, starting it with everything off and delaying their start by 30s) but no long term joy. Maybe when my remodel kicks in I'll send it in. It seems there are just a few examples of this, so a repair/replacement should cure it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,039 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,131 Posts
It sometimes goes for weeks without issue but the other day I had the flashing lights syndrome twice in a row before it would then power up normally. I think it was DavidHir that had his replaced and then had no problem, so I might have to do that too - but my lack of bright corners is telling me otherwise!
It has only happened to me once and I am reluctant to return anything based on the low frequency of occurrence and relatively small sample size.

Same goes for the remote. I'm not completely convinced it's the IR sensor at fault. The Universal remote works fine 95% of the time and I've only had the "flashing lights syndrome" once (actually, it was a lack of lights on the PJ when it failed to sync up to my AVR).

On the other hand. I really think I have a good sample with regard to focus and convergence. I love the picture. I love the colors. The image is sharp. What I really want to know if the video glitching in this video is normal... and if it warrants further exploration or a return.


This is my first high end projector I had an Infocus IN76 and an Infocus XXX before that. My biggest complaints with both was soft picture, black level, and could never get the PJ perfectly square with screen.

I've managed to fix 67% of my past gripes. I'm willing to pay someone to come center this projector so its dead square. But before I do, I want to fact-certain that this projector will be staying for a while.

Can anyone recommend an installer in Illinois to do the work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,131 Posts
FWIW, if you've got 3 out of 4 corners square, it sounds to me like your screen isn't flat, I'd check that.
Mike had me do the string test across the bottom of the screen frame. It looked pretty flat to me.

String was taught and just resting atop the surface of the frame all the way across.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,130 Posts
Try running it diagonally, both ways, the string should be the same distance off the screen all the way across. It's possible to have all four sides straight, but twisted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,092 Posts
I have had, and am still having, the same issue. It sometimes goes for weeks without issue but the other day I had the flashing lights syndrome twice in a row before it would then power up normally. I think it was DavidHir that had his replaced and then had no problem, so I might have to do that too - but my lack of bright corners is telling me otherwise!

I've tried multiple things to try and resolve it (starting the projector a few seconds after everything else, starting it with everything off and delaying their start by 30s) but no long term joy. Maybe when my remodel kicks in I'll send it in. It seems there are just a few examples of this, so a repair/replacement should cure it.
I had this problem with my RS600 from the get-go; the only thing that worked was what you describe: turn it off, wait for the cool down, then turn it back on, and everything worked fine.

I lived with this for several months (and tried all the combinations of turning the pj, the AVR in various orders, different HDMI cables, etc.) and finally sent it in for service (to Long Beach CA). The service was superb; including the shipping time, I had it back in just over a week. It has been perfect since then. (They said it was some board they had to replace.) I think that may be what you have to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,197 Posts
Greetings fellow JVCers...

You may recall that a while back I tried to spearhead a group buy for a spare bulb for the RS600/500/400s.

Unfortunately, that effort kind of died on the vine. We never made it to the required 10 participants, and we even had some folks from the initial list that opted out.

And, on top of that, I didn't stay with it like I should have. And for that I apologize to those that were still interested. I just got pulled too many ways, and wasn't able to keep the push going. In fact, even though I keep a couple of windows open on some of the threads I'm interested in, I don't think I have actually read a single post for over a month...

So, I haven't looked through the thread, at all, to see if there have been other postings about this. The reason I'm posting this now is that I just reloaded one of the windows that I keep open on the forum, and noticed that I had a PM on the subject of the group buy.

Sorry for the let-down.

- s.west
No worries and I think most feel the $$ which would be saved by this "power buy" is overshadowed by the potential of the warranty expiring prior to even using the bulb. ;)

Nice looking dog tho! :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,197 Posts
I had this problem with my RS600 from the get-go; the only thing that worked was what you describe: turn it off, wait for the cool down, then turn it back on, and everything worked fine.

I lived with this for several months (and tried all the combinations of turning the pj, the AVR in various orders, different HDMI cables, etc.) and finally sent it in for service (to Long Beach CA). The service was superb; including the shipping time, I had it back in just over a week. It has been perfect since then. (They said it was some board they had to replace.) I think that may be what you have to do.

I think yours was the one I was thinking about from earlier this year Bill which is why I said to sonichart it could be a faulty board and he should consider replacing under warranty. ;)

sonichart - If you are also planning on getting your PJ calibrated ChadB also includes this in his calibration fees (he does it all so that you end up with a perfect looking picture). :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
904 Posts
I am soon to venture into this as well, but have not as of yet. Take this with a grain of salt and just my interpretation of the instructions.


I have reviewed Manni01's JVC Autocal thread, especially posts 9 and 10, and want to clarify something:

When I do the full 33-step Gamma+Color calibration, using the "Standard" Color Profile as specified in his posts, what Gamma do I select (or does it matter, since all Gamma's will be calibrated)?

I believe he suggests the "Normal" preset since it should be a 2.2 gamma. This will help you to see if your "after" results in the JVC Autocal line up perfectly with that standard. My assumption is that the PJ uses this as a baseline, all the other Gamma modes shapes should fall into place.

In one paragraph, where he's talking more about BT2020 and HDR, he says to use Gamma "Normal" (as I'm pretty sure I did the first time around, or Gamma 2.4. Which is the preferred Gamma to select?
Again, while you can use another Gamma preset, it will be easiest to make the comparison of your "after" result to a flat, (Normal) 2.2 gamma.

And connected to this, there is frequent reference to using Gamma 2.3 or 2.4, with Black Level up 2 clicks, to get a close approximation to BT1886. Should these adjustments be dialed in *before* the Autocal, or *after*?
Quite sure this would be after the Autocal. He is taking a 2.4 gamma preset and adding some brightness to the dark end of the curve to make an approximation of BT. 1886.
I'm pretty sure you must have your Brightness and Contrast settings nailed prior to entering the Autocal process.

Just want to make sure I get it completely right.
You and me both, brother!:)
 
  • Like
Reactions: stephenbr

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,039 Posts
Wow... That looks gorgeous!! What area is this?

:)
It's the area next to this and this , NL Canada . My playground when not in the HT .:p
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: krichter1
14021 - 14040 of 32885 Posts
Top