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I am soon to venture into this as well, but have not as of yet. Take this with a grain of salt and just my interpretation of the instructions.

I believe he suggests the "Normal" preset since it should be a 2.2 gamma. This will help you to see if your "after" results in the JVC Autocal line up perfectly with that standard. My assumption is that the PJ uses this as a baseline, all the other Gamma modes shapes should fall into place.

Again, while you can use another Gamma preset, it will be easiest to make the comparison of your "after" result to a flat, (Normal) 2.2 gamma.

Quite sure this would be after the Autocal. He is taking a 2.4 gamma preset and adding some brightness to the dark end of the curve to make an approximation of BT. 1886.
I'm pretty sure you must have your Brightness and Contrast settings nailed prior to entering the Autocal process.

You and me both, brother!:)
I appreciate the reply.

I think you're right, and it is what I was thinking, but I'm new enough to this that I'm on thin ice here!

Regarding the Brightness/Contrast settings being optimized before or after the Autocal, I've had this question, and asked it as well, but haven't received a definitive answer (or rationale). One poster said to do it afterwards, but again I'm not sure either way.

I would have posted these questions on Manni01's dedicated JVC Autocal thread, but I think that thread has gone somewhat dead (possibly due to an unpleasant exchange that was going on there a while back).

Any others here with more knowledge and experience who can comment on these questions?

  1. -- which Gamma (Normal or otherwise) should be selected, along with the Standard Color Profile, when doing the full 33-step Gamma and Color Calibration?
  2. -- Should the Gamma subadjustments (PT, DL, BL) be left at their default 0 setting prior to this Autocal?
  3. -- Should Brightness/Contrast be optimized before or after Autocal?
 

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Greetings fellow JVCers...

You may recall that a while back I tried to spearhead a group buy for a spare bulb for the RS600/500/400s.

Unfortunately, that effort kind of died on the vine. We never made it to the required 10 participants, and we even had some folks from the initial list that opted out.

And, on top of that, I didn't stay with it like I should have. And for that I apologize to those that were still interested. I just got pulled too many ways, and wasn't able to keep the push going. In fact, even though I keep a couple of windows open on some of the threads I'm interested in, I don't think I have actually read a single post for over a month...

So, I haven't looked through the thread, at all, to see if there have been other postings about this. The reason I'm posting this now is that I just reloaded one of the windows that I keep open on the forum, and noticed that I had a PM on the subject of the group buy.

Sorry for the let-down.

- s.west
Good for you, for making the attempt. The cost of the new JVC bulbs is rather blood-curdling.
I'm thankful I was able to get in on the "free spare bulb" given to JVC owners attending the last TAVES audio/video show. So I've got a spare bulb stored, and usually I only have to do one bulb replacement before I upgrade my projector (basically I replace the bulb after a year, though I don't know that I'll actually do that this year given the much higher brightness available from the RS600).
 

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Regarding the Brightness/Contrast settings being optimized before or after the Autocal, I've had this question, and asked it as well, but haven't received a definitive answer (or rationale). One poster said to do it afterwards, but again I'm not sure either way.
I'm not sure it matters. The JVC Autocal uses internally generated (to the projector) patterns, I don't believe the brightness/contrast settings have any effect on these. Brightness and contrast controls are used to map source/video black and white (respectively) to the projector's output black and white. They basically affect where the projector clips the input signal.
 

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I'm not sure it matters. The JVC Autocal uses internally generated (to the projector) patterns, I don't believe the brightness/contrast settings have any effect on these. Brightness and contrast controls are used to map source/video black and white (respectively) to the projector's output black and white. They basically affect where the projector clips the input signal.
Thanks for the reply. Makes sense.

Any thoughts on the other questions: which specific Gamma setting to use for the full Autocal, and whether or not the Gamma sub-adjustments (PT, DL, BL) should be left at the defaults (0), and then tweaked afterwards (DL +2 with Gamma 2.3 to approximate BT1886)?

Don
 

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Thanks for the reply. Makes sense.

Any thoughts on the other questions: which specific Gamma setting to use for the full Autocal, and whether or not the Gamma sub-adjustments (PT, DL, BL) should be left at the defaults (0), and then tweaked afterwards (DL +2 with Gamma 2.3 to approximate BT1886)?

Don
When I autocal'd my RS49 (Haven't done my RS600 yet, waiting for a few more hours and to get a Spyder), I ran the autocal on a one of the custom gammas. Reading Manni's info, it sounds like it doesn't matter, that autocal applies to all gammas, but my thought process was to leave the standard ones alone.

I'd also zero out all the other adjustments, (whether they affect the actual measurements or not), at least that way when you're done with the autocal, you're seeing exactly what it produced, and aren't confusing things with modifications to the autocal results.
 

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No worries; thanks for the reply.

I'm not sure I completely follow this (I'm a bit out of my depth here), but am curious about any thoughts you have on jav's comments on this, and the other issues I asked about in this post. I don't mean to stir up disagreements; just wanting to hear multiple views in order to have a more solid understanding.

Don


What I recommend is to continue calibrating your projector and watch a bunch of 2k movies and share your opinions backed by data. Good to get source centric observations from people behind the camera, still or motion. Most of the movies will look very good. I said what I had to say about this here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...000-x7000-owners-thread-467.html#post46593849 :)
 

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Good for you, for making the attempt. The cost of the new JVC bulbs is rather blood-curdling.
I'm thankful I was able to get in on the "free spare bulb" given to JVC owners attending the last TAVES audio/video show. So I've got a spare bulb stored, and usually I only have to do one bulb replacement before I upgrade my projector (basically I replace the bulb after a year, though I don't know that I'll actually do that this year given the much higher brightness available from the RS600).
Same here, have a spare lamp that came with my X950 in Canada, probably will not even use it before my next upgrade. :p
 

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Try running it diagonally, both ways, the string should be the same distance off the screen all the way across. It's possible to have all four sides straight, but twisted.
Thank you for this, I will try it tonight when I get home.

Also sent Chad B a PM.
 
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Maybe this will help explain things better. Sorry for all the I’s and We’s ahead of time, but can’t explain it any better.


I’m a tweaker. I don’t speak for all tweakers. I do know quite of few like myself. Tweakers first calibrate then we tweak the settings based on what we are seeing on the screen, when warranted. We’re source centric. Calibration to standards is always the first step because we can’t critic source material otherwise. We always have "calibration to stds" settings stored in memory … so they can be recalled at any time despite all our tweaking. If we don’t see anything to change, we may tweak back and forth (and we may try non-std gamuts) anyhow just to “verify” the source is nicely dialed in … from our perspective. Can’t do that without having a calibrated display device. We appreciate well done source material … meaning blu ray movies … and look forward to be amazed.


The yang of Tweakers (yin and yang) are “standards purists”. Their level of patience is zero when it comes to those who use non-standards based color gamuts :rolleyes:… even though JVC has them (cinema, film, ect). Their DNA seems to be devoid of curiosity lol. :D I know quite of few purists. They usually come down very hard if one deviates from standards. I come down hard on studios that botch blu ray movies … so you may see words like lazy used for dramatic effect. Still, we co-exist comfortably because both sides strongly recognize and support an individual’s personal preferences. There are lots of JVC owners who love movies and have calibrated projectors on this thread … that’s why I’m here. :)
FWIW, my only point regarding calibration and standards is, you shouldn't "have to" fiddle with the settings for each and every different thing you watch. On balance, content is mastered on displays calibrated to standards, if you calibrate your home display to the same or equivalent standards, you really should be able to just sit down and watch, and things should be "correct". The Matrix should have slight green hue in the "matrix" scenes and a blue hue in the "real world" scenes, you don't want to try and chase having "natural" flesh tones throughout that movie (for example). There are of course outliers, mistakes happen, though those are usually relatively quickly corroborated online (like the 4K of Oblivion).

Beyond that, if you like tweaking settings for every title you watch, more power to you. Personally I get more enjoyment out of the content, than the tweaking. Of course a large part of my enjoyment of content is knowing that I've got my setup calibrated as best I'm able, but I do that in my "spare" time.
 

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It just came to my attention that JVC had previously released an Android app ("D-ILA Remote 2" from the Google Play store) which provided remote control for the previous top tier models (DLA-X500R, DLA-RS4910, etc) when the projector was connected by an Ethernet cable to a wireless router and the Wi-Fi Android device was running at 4.0 or above. Has anyone attempted to utilize this app with the current RS500/600 line of projectors?
 

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Here's a piece of good news for folks wishing to wishing to purchase the X750 (RS500) or X950 (RS600) in Canada. The JVC mail-in-rebate for spare bulb has now been extended to September 30. See attached.
Has it followed that, historically, JVC USA would also provide a similar rebate for its customers around the time of CEDIA?
 

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I appreciate the reply.

I think you're right, and it is what I was thinking, but I'm new enough to this that I'm on thin ice here!

Regarding the Brightness/Contrast settings being optimized before or after the Autocal, I've had this question, and asked it as well, but haven't received a definitive answer (or rationale). One poster said to do it afterwards, but again I'm not sure either way.

I would have posted these questions on Manni01's dedicated JVC Autocal thread, but I think that thread has gone somewhat dead (possibly due to an unpleasant exchange that was going on there a while back).

Any others here with more knowledge and experience who can comment on these questions?

  1. -- which Gamma (Normal or otherwise) should be selected, along with the Standard Color Profile, when doing the full 33-step Gamma and Color Calibration?
  2. -- Should the Gamma subadjustments (PT, DL, BL) be left at their default 0 setting prior to this Autocal?
  3. -- Should Brightness/Contrast be optimized before or after Autocal?

I can tell you what I did with mine. I believe Manni's thread says to calibrate BT2020, you have to use the Reference profile as it's the related standard color profile to calibrate gamma.

I calibrated Cinema 2 with Autocal V7 (standard signal input) and did the BT2020 profile manually using CP.

I used Normal as, supposedly, it isn't pre-calibrated as are the preset power gammas. I only calibrated one profile because I think the 33 step calibration implicates the luminance encoding across the board. I even recall in Manni's thread that it was said that calibrating yet another profile at the same lamp/iris settings can affect gray scale and thus negatively impact the calibration for another color profile.

Anyway, in that regard, I believe all gamma settings are calibrated incidentally as a result of the one gamma calibration.

With mine, I left everything at default, except for clear black left at low, and MPC set, with low lamp.

After Autocal, I didn't need to set any of those (B/C/PT/DL/BL) above or below 0. The picture just looked incredible; and regardless of any source material I threw at the PJ, the picture just looked right!

I tried the up one/two clicks thing on DL Normal gamma afterwards, but it gave me a slightly washed out look on mine, which wasn't there otherwise. Of course, that was on my unit, so maybe others will benefit from it, IDK.

You know, there have been reports in that thread of a raised black floor every time Autocal is run. I can tell you that I didn't have that problem. Yes, some dark areas of the image are a touch raised but then again the shadow detail post-Autocal is outstanding. The software just flat out targeted 2.2 perfectly.

For the sake of argument, if it's true that the black floor is raised every time, I would wonder whether (excuse the alliteration) reloading the initial out-of-the-box saved ini file back into the PJ would be the clean slate needed to bring back the black level initial starting point, and then run Autocal from there?
 

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I just wanted to follow up after re-reading that the DL up two clicks was for a 2.4 power gamma.
But after Autocal of Normal, for me, going to 2.4 was crushing blacks and the lack of shadow detail at 2.4 in Cinema 2 made me feel like I was missing part of the show.... Up DL two clicks on 2.4 didn't help me and looked a bit washed out with Normal, as I said.
 

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I know there has been some comparison and contrast drawn between how the Samsung K8500 and Panasonic DMP UB900 look on these JVCs. Has anyone compared the Panasonic UB900 or the K8500 to the Phillips BDP 7501 and how the latter looks on these projectors?
 

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If anyone cares the Samsung UHD player is for sale at Costco for $299.

It seems that the Panasonic is the way to go, though.
 

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If anyone cares the Samsung UHD player is for sale at Costco for $299.

It seems that the Panasonic is the way to go, though.
Samsung is the bottom of the list in terms of quality as I read.
I guess Philips is preferred being in same price point.
 

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I had this problem with my RS600 from the get-go; the only thing that worked was what you describe: turn it off, wait for the cool down, then turn it back on, and everything worked fine.

I lived with this for several months (and tried all the combinations of turning the pj, the AVR in various orders, different HDMI cables, etc.) and finally sent it in for service (to Long Beach CA). The service was superb; including the shipping time, I had it back in just over a week. It has been perfect since then. (They said it was some board they had to replace.) I think that may be what you have to do.
To confirm, they just replaced the board but otherwise they returned you the same unit (same serial number)? Sounds good.
 

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If anyone cares the Samsung UHD player is for sale at Costco for $299.

It seems that the Panasonic is the way to go, though.
Samsung is the bottom of the list in terms of quality as I read.
I guess Philips is preferred being in same price point.
I've been getting burned a lot by Samsung lately... :(
Crutchfield also has the K8500 for $319 though I plan to move mine to the bedroom once the UB900 price drops closer to $500. Crutchfield also has a killer sale on AVRs if someone is interested. The Denon 4200 is only $799 plus other nice brands. I like buying from them with their 60 day no questions return service. AVS salesmen also have great customer service and knowledge.

http://www.crutchfield.com/specials...o-Deals-And-Specials.html#&nvpair=FFCategory|[rank10400]Receivers%20%26%20Amplifiers&nvpair=FFSubcategory%7c[rank10420]Home%20Theater%20Receivers
 
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