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When I see a video of a JVC projector playing it looks like its flickering like mad. Is this just the way camera pick up DILA or is the flicker similar when watching in person? I'm struggling to find a local demo (UK) otherwise id simply go check it out.

Also how is the motion compared to the new Epson 5040? I was not impressed with the motion with its FI on low or off. How does clear motion drive compare?

What projectors would be a big step up compared to the new Epson? X7000?
 

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I was confused as well. But I believe he was referring to using the Integral to force the HDR flag when viewing test patterns for calibration. Not for viewing actual HDR content.
It wouldn't matter what you're watching, whether movies or calibration discs. If you switch the projector to Gamma D, you are engaging its HDR mode. Some displays don't allow you to force the HDR mode like this so a Fury is needed to inject the metadata so they'll go into their HDR mode, the JVC doesn't require this.
 

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That's an interesting and important point Nathan. Am not sure who the Canadian equivalent of Chad would be, but I have talked to a few Pros who all say that the JVC autocal is not necessary for a proper REC 709 and BT 2020 HDR/SDR calibration. I was also of the opinion that the JVC autocal played a critical part of the whole process and, as a result, I haven't proceeded with a professional calibration. Can the usual informed suspects comment on this? Is the JVC autocal a critical step? If the JVC autocal is of no consequence to achieve a decent calibration in both SDR and HDR then I can proceed to have my unit calibrated.

Edit: Forgot to ask: for those who have used Chad (Kevin and Nathan), can you confirm whether Chad does a JVC auto-cal prior to his normal calibrations?
The "best" method appears to be to use autocal FIRST, then touch up with a traditional calibration using the accessible controls and a meter.

The reason appears to be that autocal accesses more nuanced controls behind the scenes than what is available to adjust manually. But the autocal results can usually be improved upon, manually, afterwards.

--

That being said, it is completely possible to do a calibration without the autocal step, and get darn decent results. So if your only option is to go with a good calibrator who doesn't do the autocal step, it is by no means a waste to do so. It will still be better than what you can do on your own, and might well be within the margin of "imperceptible differences" for most elements.
 

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I think you meant you need an Integral to turn Off HDR (Gamma D engages HDR on the JVC automatically while the Integral strips the HDR out through a custom EDID definition). ;)


The following is the "current" thought process. It's fully controllable through Integral. :):


SetUp:


a: JVC User2 is set to BT2020 (custom1) and SDR (that way one can flip btwn HDR and SDR with Integral).
b: K8500 output set to up rez any 2k content to 4k.
c: Integral is set up for custom EDID, max video and audio. Just switch between EDID 8 (HDR) and EDID 10 (SDR) as needed. Integral always starts up in EDID 8 (HDR) ... because Integral is set to EDID 8 before JVC power down at day's end movie viewing.


A. Calibrating w. 4K "HDR" Patterns


1. For 2K Cal Disk (e.g. Teds 2k cal disk): K8500 takes Ted's 2k calibration disk and up rez's to 4k output, SDR. Integral forces both JVC and K8500 into "HDR" mode. JVC expects 4K "HDR" patterns from K8500. K8500 is sending 4k "HDR" patterns to JVC.


2. For Sony 4k (7669) Disk (HDR Only): K8500 outputs 4k in "7669" mode. Never chk'd to see if K8500 Sony/7669 outputs HDR or SDR because one can control this "reliably" through the Integral. Integral forces both JVC and K8500 into HDR. K8500/JVC are sending/receiving HDR patterns.


B. Calibrating w. 4K SDR Patterns


Set Integral Custom EDID to 10 (SDR). This will force K8500 and JVC into SDR mode (remember, JVC User2 is normally BT2020/SDR). Repeat A for SDR now ... replace "HDR" with "SDR" in A.:)


EDIT: Yes, the Integral is always there for 4k movie watching in HDMI1. OPPO is for 2K in HDMI2.
EDIT2: Sony "7669" disk patterns are for HDR only because it is "absolute luminance based" where as Ted's 2k sdr disk is "relative luminance based" which is required in SDR. Never use Sony for SDR.
 

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Using the Integral in my system for SDR2020 gives me less black crush than HDR,but I can't seem to be able to get the colors to pop like they do in HDR mode,tried different gamma's but still not as vibrant as HDR mode,what settings are you using to get the colors to pop like they do in HDR mode?
I just tried out SDR BT2020 with my RS600 using the Panasonic and Fury last night. My initial impression was that the image is dim and lacks the pop of regular Blu-ray. I played around with the down conversion slider and using about +8 got it to the point where the overall image brightness and pop was in the same ballpark as BD. However, I then noticed that this was doing some pretty significant clipping of the highlights. Backing down to around +2 seemed to help with the highlights, but the image was back to looking less impressive than regular BD. so I tried raising the JVC's contrast a bit and that seemed to help some, but I don't feel like it is at all optimized yet.

I'd love to get some feedback from others on what settings they are using for SDR from the Panasonic using the Fury on the RS600/500.
 

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For those that use Roomie / Simple Control to control the JVC over IP. What command(s) have you found that will adjust the lamp power (low/high). The only option I can come up with is duplicating user modes with the only difference being the lamp setting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The following is the "current" thought process. It's fully controllable through Integral. :):


SetUp:


a: JVC User2 is set to BT2020 (custom1) and SDR (that way one can flip btwn HDR and SDR with Integral).
b: K8500 output set to up rez any 2k content to 4k.
c: Integral is set up for custom EDID, max video and audio. Just switch between EDID 8 (HDR) and EDID 10 (SDR) as needed. Integral always starts up in EDID 8 (HDR) ... because Integral is set to EDID 8 before JVC power down at day's end movie viewing.


A. Calibrating w. 4K "HDR" Patterns


1. For 2K Cal Disk (e.g. Teds 2k cal disk): K8500 takes Ted's 2k calibration disk and up rez's to 4k output, SDR. Integral forces both JVC and K8500 into "HDR" mode. JVC expects 4K "HDR" patterns from K8500. K8500 is sending 4k "HDR" patterns to JVC.


2. For Sony 4k (7669) Disk (HDR Only): K8500 outputs 4k in "7669" mode. Never chk'd to see if K8500 Sony/7669 outputs HDR or SDR because one can control this "reliably" through the Integral. Integral forces both JVC and K8500 into HDR. K8500/JVC are sending/receiving HDR patterns.


B. Calibrating w. 4K SDR Patterns


Set Integral Custom EDID to 10 (SDR). This will force K8500 and JVC into SDR mode (remember, JVC User2 is normally BT2020/SDR). Repeat A for SDR now ... replace "HDR" with "SDR" in A.:)


EDIT: Yes, the Integral is always there for 4k movie watching in HDMI1. OPPO is for 2K in HDMI2.
EDIT2: Sony "7669" disk patterns are for HDR only because it is "absolute luminance based" where as Ted's 2k sdr disk is "relative luminance based" which is required in SDR. Never use Sony for SDR.
I don't see how this works...

1. For 2K Cal Disk (e.g. Teds 2k cal disk): K8500 takes Ted's 2k calibration disk and up rez's to 4k output, SDR. Integral forces both JVC and K8500 into "HDR" mode. JVC expects 4K "HDR" patterns from K8500. K8500 is sending 4k "HDR" patterns to JVC.

The Integral cannot make the K8500 send HDR for content that is not mastered in HDR. The Integral can only report to the K8500 that HDR is supported or not so that the K8500 will convert HDR to SDR when not supported. The K8500 has no SDR to HDR conversion capabilities.

You can manually enter HDR metadata into the Integral and the JVC will recognize it. (Although no audio is output in this case.)
 
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I just tried out SDR BT2020 with my RS600 using the Panasonic and Fury last night. My initial impression was that the image is dim and lacks the pop of regular Blu-ray. I played around with the down conversion slider and using about +8 got it to the point where the overall image brightness and pop was in the same ballpark as BD. However, I then noticed that this was doing some pretty significant clipping of the highlights. Backing down to around +2 seemed to help with the highlights, but the image was back to looking less impressive than regular BD. so I tried raising the JVC's contrast a bit and that seemed to help some, but I don't feel like it is at all optimized yet.

I'd love to get some feedback from others on what settings they are using for SDR from the Panasonic using the Fury on the RS600/500.
hi, are you sure the HDFury is set correctly and JVC is set to a user mode with BT2020 set as the color profile?

if you hit the info button on the UB900 when playing a UHD disk, what does it say on the screen? What does the JVC output menu state?
 

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I watched The Impossible at my pal's house on the weekend. He owns my previous RS57 with a small graywolf screen.
As usual I was awed by the black levels, DI and motion smoothness of that projector, and it looked beautiful. But throwing that disc on once I got back home once again showed how the RS600 is a real step past the RS57. Even at a larger image size it looked so sharp and detailed, most mostly it just looked obviously more dynamic all around in terms of contrast for all scenes, night, day and in between. It was just a more realistic looking image.
 
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I just tried out SDR BT2020 with my RS600 using the Panasonic and Fury last night. My initial impression was that the image is dim and lacks the pop of regular Blu-ray. I played around with the down conversion slider and using about +8 got it to the point where the overall image brightness and pop was in the same ballpark as BD. However, I then noticed that this was doing some pretty significant clipping of the highlights. Backing down to around +2 seemed to help with the highlights, but the image was back to looking less impressive than regular BD. so I tried raising the JVC's contrast a bit and that seemed to help some, but I don't feel like it is at all optimized yet.

I'd love to get some feedback from others on what settings they are using for SDR from the Panasonic using the Fury on the RS600/500.
I don't know...using the conversion slider I thought impaired the excellent gamma tracking I achieved through Autocal. What I do for Blacrays SDR BT2020 is set my PJ's gamma to 2.2 and iris at -5 Auto 2; I leave brightness and contrast at 0. In the Panny, I leave everything at default.
 

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When I see a video of a JVC projector playing it looks like its flickering like mad. Is this just the way camera pick up DILA or is the flicker similar when watching in person? I'm struggling to find a local demo (UK) otherwise id simply go check it out.

Also how is the motion compared to the new Epson 5040? I was not impressed with the motion with its FI on low or off. How does clear motion drive compare?

What projectors would be a big step up compared to the new Epson? X7000?
it is not the camera, those JVCs flicker like mad. But like everyone who bought one, you should get used to it...:)
 

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I watched The Impossible at my pal's house on the weekend. He owns my previous RS57 with a small graywolf screen.
As usual I was awed by the black levels, DI and motion smoothness of that projector, and it looked beautiful. But throwing that disc on once I got back home once again showed how the RS600 is a real step past the RS57. Even at a larger image size it looked so sharp and detailed, most mostly it just looked obviously more dynamic all around in terms of contrast for all scenes, night, day and in between. It was just a more realistic looking image.
I think having substantially more lumens at your disposal helps make the picture more dynamic. " The Impossible " was a good movie !
 

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it is not the camera, those JVCs flicker like mad. But like everyone who bought one, you should get used to it...:)
Wow. This is news to me.
I hate when the PJ flickers. :mad:
 

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Hmmm sounds like I 100% need to demo first. Flicker would ruin it for me.

Can someone say what JVC Clear motion is like vs Epson frame Interpolation, both on low?

Or do most people not switch it on and are happy with motion?
 

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I think having substantially more lumens at your disposal helps make the picture more dynamic. " The Impossible " was a good movie !
Agreed. The RS57 was at -11 aperture setting on a small 92" 1.4 gain screen.
My RS600 was at -11 on a 112" wide scope image, and it was still brighter and punchier.
I'm guessing I'm getting the benefit of having that extra brightness combined with a similar or better contrast level that makes the image look more dynamic.
 

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Agreed. The RS57 was at -11 aperture setting on a small 92" 1.4 gain screen.
My RS600 was at -11 on a 112" wide scope image, and it was still brighter and punchier.
I'm guessing I'm getting the benefit of having that extra brightness combined with a similar or better contrast level that makes the image look more dynamic.
Yup! When people say they don't need more lumens, I can only imagine what an RS600 would look like if it had 3000 lumens, and you could get 18 foot lamberts at -15. Oh, that's an RS4500. :eek:
 

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Hmmm sounds like I 100% need to demo first. Flicker would ruin it for me.

Can someone say what JVC Clear motion is like vs Epson frame Interpolation, both on low?

Or do most people not switch it on and are happy with motion?
I am sorry about the flicker joke...I thought the smily at the end of my sentence made it obvious...No, no flicker at all. None. Nada.
 

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hi, are you sure the HDFury is set correctly and JVC is set to a user mode with BT2020 set as the color profile?

if you hit the info button on the UB900 when playing a UHD disk, what does it say on the screen? What does the JVC output menu state?
The Fury is on EDID 10.

The Panasonic menu shows (from memory) SDR BT2020 4:2:2. (What I was expecting based on the info/pictures in this thread)

JVC shows the proper UHD resolution, 12 bit, and I think it was YUV color? It is NOT showing "HDR YES", so it is getting an SDR signal.

I was looking at Star Trek Into Darkness. The BD was coming from an oppo 103D using the user setting calibrated by Chad into input 2. The UHD BD was coming from the Panasonic through the Fury directly into the JVC's input 1. The image I was seeing was not what I expected based on the reports in this thread.

I didn't have the Panasonic when Chad calibrated things in July, but he cal'd a BT2020 profile and grey scale with basically the same BT1886 gamma he did for Blu-ray. Except he did not use the filter for that color profile, so it wouldn't be reaching the highest percent of the color profile it should be able to do. He is coming back next month to redo the BT2020 profile using the filter, and I'm sure he can better set up UHD BT2020 SDR since I'll have the player this time. But I still think I should be able to get things looking better before then.

My impression is that is didn't look bad, but the overall image looked dim compared to the BD and the colors didn't look as saturated (paused both at the same time stamp and switched back and forth). When I upped the HDR to SDR conversion slider to about 8 it looked very close to the BD in overall image brightness and maybe a bit nicer with colors (basically, what I was expecting with this combo). But I then noticed that highlights were clipping.

So when using BT2020 SDR from the Panny using the Fury your overall image brightness looks similar to the normal SDR of Blu-ray without having to raise the JVC's contrast (or raise the conversion slider)? If so, something has to be off with my set-up and Chad can probably help figure it out.
 
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