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You will never see bar 69 without raising the black floor a ton, just like we cant see bar 17 without doing the same.

Focus on seeing bar 70, and fricken BARELY seeing it, I mean, you think you see it but you're not sure kind of seeing it. :)
Cool. Bar 70 it is! Did you do any other tests---such as color clipping?
 

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Cool. Bar 70 it is! Did you do any other tests---such as color clipping?


Had a look, slight clipping in red but didnt rectify.

Still not going to use HDR at this time, SDR looks too good :)
 

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Actually nah mate I did have it all set on the 8500, I was able to use those patterns to get the best possible image from the Samsung in HDR. Thats why I bought the patterns actually, I ended up at contrast +14 with the samsung. I tweaked the black clipping point on that just the same way.

Mind you Lucy is not a low APL film, if I were to have a look at Batman v Supes I would probably get the ****s with the Panasonic in HDR just the same :)
Ahh okay I thought I remembered you using only the Sony 7669 on it but good to know you did the 8500 as well. What about my others question/thoughts on your results? ;)
 

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Hi folks...

Looks like I pulled the trigger on the x750...


Question - stripping out HDR when I need too...is it just a matter of switching Edid' s on the Integral from my iPad remote app or is there another config required for stripping out HDR or including HDR with the flip of a switch? Is there an edid with bt2020 and HDR and an edid with bt2020 and no HDR?

Thanks folks, appreciate the help...sorry there are 16,000 posts here and I didn't quite see the exact answer...
Any input would be appreciated folks...thanks kindly
 

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Any input would be appreciated folks...thanks kindly
HFDury Integral

EDID 8 for 4K24p HDR BT.2020 4:2:0 Full Sound
EDID 10 for 4K24p SDR BT.2020 4:2:0 Full Sound

as I mentioned (several times) 5-6 pages back
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/2222586-official-jvc-rs600-rs500-x950r-x750r-x9000-x7000-owners-thread-551.html

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/2222586-official-jvc-rs600-rs500-x950r-x750r-x9000-x7000-owners-thread-552.html

All my settings for my JVC X750, HDFury Integral and Panasonic player
complete with screen shots of every setting option for HDR and SDR
are in my build thread page 13 (link in my sig line)

also my AVR settings (Yamaha RX-A3050)
and the HDMI cable info you requested.
 

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Any input would be appreciated folks...thanks kindly
Yes, just a matter of switching EDID with the app. Yes there is one for 4k hdr bt2020 & 4k sdr bt2020. I believe 8 & 10 from the EDID list.
 
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HFDury Integral

EDID 8 for 4K24p HDR BT.2020 4:2:0 Full Sound
EDID 10 for 4K24p SDR BT.2020 4:2:0 Full Sound

as I mentioned (several times)
All my settings for my JVC X750, HDFury Integral and Panasonic player
complete with screen shots of every setting option for HDR and SDR
are in my build thread page 13 (link in my sig line)

also my AVR settings (Yamaha RX-A3050)
and the HDMI cable info you requested.
Thank-you...missed the builder thread part...will go there now!
 

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Lookie Lookie... I gotta cookie...

I know what I'm doin' tonight! :D


(BTW - Anyone know why AVSF attachments put some of my pics sideways... is it a size or dimension issue?? :confused: )
 

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Thank-you...missed the builder thread part...will go there now!
On your JVC you need to setup a custom slot for 2D BT.709 (regular HD)
See zombie10k's newbie setup post (link in his sig)
if you want 3D you need to set that up too.

and you'll need two different slots for 4K BT.2020, one for HDR and one for SDR.

Every time you make a change in content format,
whether its HD to UHD disc or EDID SDR to HDR
You will also have to switch to the matching user mode on the JVC to match.
 

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Keep in mind too you never had the Samsung calibrated for HDR like this (IIRC), and I'm not saying the Panny isn't better (by all observations written & read... it is) but your "acceptable and natural" comment is very similar to mine now that it was properly cal'd by Chad using the Samsung HDR disc (did you also detect a bit of a darker more subdued (refined if you will), image when defining "natural" as I did (don't get me wrong as I mean it in a very positive way and when the benefits/advantages of HDR are called upon it's definitely there to give you that POP!)? Mine resulted in Chad choosing +10/0 for Ct/Br so I'd be interested in your take of IQ if you were to drop your brightness and open your iris all the way (just curious your take in that mode since mine seems so darn pleasing to the eye... not perfect by any means and I'm sure in the end your SDR/2020 will still be the preferred mode but for certain movies I much prefer HDR (but again full well knowing it might only be because I have a Samsung at this point).
;)
Yeah so, I was using basically the same settings on the Samsung in the end, remember how I always hated using any picture controls on the Samsung itself, pretty much a while before Chad was turning off the Samsung picture controls? Well, I guess I was pretty much always looking at the more calm and natural HDR effect, I just still never really liked it on the Samsung, even when I had the Masciola patterns and set it up right. By the way, it was only ever the black floor clipping that the patterns helped with, I was always setting the 1200nits regardless of the 10x rule as I thought that looked a bit too crazy, so it was a few clicks on brightness that got me where I am with black clipping.

The Panasonic when HDR is set right, reminds me more of SDR than anything else, just a tad brighter at least, I only watched the first 10 mins of Lucy and not much in the way of HDR happens in that time, but nothing really looked wrong there to me. But then one thinks, why would I waste lamp power when I can clamp down in low lamp and gain 60-80k:1 vs the -4 high lamp setting... and gain auto iris function to boot. I didn't see compelling reasons to stick in HDR.

I think thats a thing, you need to source out someone with a Panasonic or something have a look at a really well set up SDR WCG... its honestly not that dissimilar to how HDR looks except there is a TON more contrast... The bright highlights are still more than enough to blind me at -10, I don't see what the fuss is all about by being blinded even more.

BTW, what fl are you at with your HDR viewing? I am at 16fl -10 in low lamp, -4 in high must be about 27fl or so since I get 33fl in high lamp -0...
 

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just got done.. wow!! excellent 3D conversion

Yep!

That one shot with the Star Destroyer, front on, like it was going to poke your eye out! Very, very good 3D.

 

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Yeah so, I was using basically the same settings on the Samsung in the end, remember how I always hated using any picture controls on the Samsung itself, pretty much a while before Chad was turning off the Samsung picture controls? Well, I guess I was pretty much always looking at the more calm and natural HDR effect, I just still never really liked it on the Samsung, even when I had the Masciola patterns and set it up right. By the way, it was only ever the black floor clipping that the patterns helped with, I was always setting the 1200nits regardless of the 10x rule as I thought that looked a bit too crazy, so it was a few clicks on brightness that got me where I am with black clipping.

The Panasonic when HDR is set right, reminds me more of SDR than anything else, just a tad brighter at least, I only watched the first 10 mins of Lucy and not much in the way of HDR happens in that time, but nothing really looked wrong there to me. But then one thinks, why would I waste lamp power when I can clamp down in low lamp and gain 60-80k:1 vs the -4 high lamp setting... and gain auto iris function to boot. I didn't see compelling reasons to stick in HDR.

I think thats a thing, you need to source out someone with a Panasonic or something have a look at a really well set up SDR WCG... its honestly not that dissimilar to how HDR looks except there is a TON more contrast... The bright highlights are still more than enough to blind me at -10, I don't see what the fuss is all about by being blinded even more.

BTW, what fl are you at with your HDR viewing? I am at 16fl -10 in low lamp, -4 in high must be about 27fl or so since I get 33fl in high lamp -0...
Fair enough. ;)

I think as I recall I'm at 19ftL wide open high lamp and 98.7% of 1K-nit level (but I'm also in the back ⅔ of max throw at 17.5' on a 110" Seymour AT screen so can't complain I guess).

:)
 

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Fair enough. ;)

I think as I recall I'm at 19ftL wide open high lamp and 98.1% of 1K-nit level (but I'm also in the back ⅔ of max throw at 17.5' on a 110" Seymour AT screen so can't complain I guess).

:)
Right, from memory, I think I did much prefer at some point something like -6 or 7 in low lamp for HDR at one point, that would be at near 20fl too I imagine, possibly a little further. I hit 27fl in low lamp wide open.

This puts things a little in perspective, for yourself, if you can get HDR looking good at 19fl, I see why you may not be fussed, since its not far off the spec brightness we all use for SDR anyway... If you were looking at a 33fl HDR image, you may agree like many of us that despite the 'pop' its just too unnatural and synthetic, in your face, jammed down your throat if you will. Not only are the highlights stupidly bright, but the natural skin tones we are all used to looking at are WAY overly bright too.

I think if there was a way to spec all this within the projector, it could be like, ok lets use 16fl for up to reference white, then the last 4 or 5 fl for specular highlights and anything beyond reference white. I could probably set it up properly that way, but I am not sure I can be fussed. But I do imagine that would be a far more pleasing image, since we would effectively still be looking at the same range of brightness for the majority of content, but there is 4-5fl more just for that brighter stuff which we dont often see in frame. I think that would stop it looking too intense.
 

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By the way, if you only get 19fl in high lamp wide open, where the hell are you set for watching SDR content???

Maybe since you cant stop down to -10 like a lot of us and hit that magic 100k:1 number you are not 'giving up' a hell of a lot by going with HDR?

For me, I am giving up probably at least 60k:1 (half my effective SDR contrast) when I go HDR, that's a noticeable event, even when you discount the fact that the auto iris is not working.

But if you are only giving up 20k:1 that's probably not even visible.
 

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New member in the problematic HDMI cables camp.
After I got my Xbox One S to send the HDR/WCG signals to the PJ it became apparent that my cables can't hold these signals in a stable manner. I have two 10m HDMI cables running from my processor to the PJ, and each of them can hold 1.4a wihout issues (including in 4K resolution), but nether of them can pass stable 2.0.
Is ther a way to make the two cables work in parallel (by utilizing 2 outputus of the receiver and 2 inputs of the PJ), or may be there is a splitter/merger device that can send signal over 2 parallel cables?
The cables are built into the walls, and it would suck if have to reinstall a new cable.
 

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... further strengthening my opinion about you just not being a 3D guy... CptAmer: Civil War is about as good as it gets on the RS series (it was damn near perfect!). As good as the 2D Star Wars was I now highly doubt it'll even ruffle your skirt (let alone blow it up!). ;)
Did anyone else almost break/scratch the disk getting it out of that stupid packaging?

So, I spent a little while watching some scenes from Star Wars last night, here's what I noticed primarily:

  1. Colors are significantly/noticeably less vivid, it "seems" like it's more than just a color shift from the glasses (still need to try a calibration).
  2. It's dimmer, even though I go from Low lamp -13 for 2D to High lamp, 0 for my 3D High preset.
  3. There's a significant amount of flicker, specifically in bright areas
  4. There's something unsettling about the 3D/stereo
  5. Contrast is bad
  6. The stereo was "neat" occasionally, like the star destroyer shot posted above
Starting with 5, contrast is just "terrible", I think this is a lot like what Javs is getting at with HDR, I run my 2D config at -13, so I'm surely well over 100,000:1 (plus DI), to get reasonable brightness for 3D, I have to crank everything wide open and my contrast drops like a rock. Backgrounds are gray/hazy, just like we all remember from before we started using JVCs.

Beyond 3 and 4 are interesting, on first glance you'd think they were connected, but I was playing around switching my glasses between 3D and 2D, and oddly everything felt "calmer" when I switched the glasses to 2D. I wonder if there's something about the relatively low switching speed and the fact that they alternate eyes that bothers me...

2, there's nothing I can do about. I'm not giving up my scope screen, shape or size, and that dictates an AT solution, so I'm SOL there.

1, I'd still like to try a calibration and see if I can improve things.

Or if any of you 3D fans have any tips for things I might be doing wrong, here's basically where I'm at:
RS600
X105BT glasses (the 'Mitsubishi' ones)
High Lamp
Iris at 0 or close to it
3D Cinema profile
Custom1 gamma/white balance from my 2D quick calibration (I know the white balance is a little off).

I really wish I could justify, or had the equipment to try out passive 3D with those Omega 3D filters or something, that might solve all those negatives up there. It would also be interesting to check triple flash 3D from a good DLP, but those are just way too expensive.
 

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I went in for round 2 last night, I thought it looked excellent. with the HP I can crank the iris down quite a bit in high lamp and it's still quite bright through the glasses. Colors did not look muted, Panasonic UB900 as the source player.

gamma was a typical bt.1886 and greyscale calibrated through the glasses. I'll have to watch it a 3rd time on the Sharp 30K 3D DLP, image is rock solid on the DLP's, it looks exactly like 2D in terms of refresh / eye strain.

I think you mentioned big hero 6, if the 3D depth and pops didn't wow from that movie, 3D may not click the same way it does for others. I love the depth if nothing else and a good pop once in a while is fun to see.

maybe check what settings Ralph is using, he gave it 100% on the 3D version of the movie.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/187-o...ns-3d-collector-s-edition-blu-ray-review.html
 

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I think you mentioned big hero 6, if the 3D depth and pops didn't wow from that movie, 3D may not click the same way it does for others. I love the depth if nothing else and a good pop once in a while is fun to see.
FWIW, I could definitely see the depth in BH6, but I had much the same experience, "negatives" wise as I listed for SW. Poor contrast, somewhat muted colors, etc.
 
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