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New member in the problematic HDMI cables camp.
After I got my Xbox One S to send the HDR/WCG signals to the PJ it became apparent that my cables can't hold these signals in a stable manner. I have two 10m HDMI cables running from my processor to the PJ, and each of them can hold 1.4a wihout issues (including in 4K resolution), but nether of them can pass stable 2.0.
Is ther a way to make the two cables work in parallel (by utilizing 2 outputus of the receiver and 2 inputs of the PJ), or may be there is a splitter/merger device that can send signal over 2 parallel cables?
The cables are built into the walls, and it would suck if have to reinstall a new cable.
You're going to have to pull new cable. To be completely safe at that distance, I'd consider the Celerity HDMI/Fiber solution. The good thing is the cable is very small and easy to pull.
 
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Right, from memory, I think I did much prefer at some point something like -6 or 7 in low lamp for HDR at one point, that would be at near 20fl too I imagine, possibly a little further. I hit 27fl in low lamp wide open.

This puts things a little in perspective, for yourself, if you can get HDR looking good at 19fl, I see why you may not be fussed, since its not far off the spec brightness we all use for SDR anyway... If you were looking at a 33fl HDR image, you may agree like many of us that despite the 'pop' its just too unnatural and synthetic, in your face, jammed down your throat if you will. Not only are the highlights stupidly bright, but the natural skin tones we are all used to looking at are WAY overly bright too.

I think if there was a way to spec all this within the projector, it could be like, ok lets use 16fl for up to reference white, then the last 4 or 5 fl for specular highlights and anything beyond reference white. I could probably set it up properly that way, but I am not sure I can be fussed. But I do imagine that would be a far more pleasing image, since we would effectively still be looking at the same range of brightness for the majority of content, but there is 4-5fl more just for that brighter stuff which we dont often see in frame. I think that would stop it looking too intense.

My apologies as I must have gotten my modes confused. I didn't have access to my thumb drive where Chad put all my pdf chart results last night and the one I posted he only sent me the chart thru email when he refreshed my calibration in August using the Samsung HDR cal disc (I don't think he told me my resulting ftL and I never asked... guess I was too busy catching all the drool coming out of my mouth!). The SDR-BT1886 reports at -6 iris low lamp shows a ftL = 17.5 and my orig HDR wide open shows a ftL = 27.5ftL.

I really don't remember where I got the 19ftL from unless that's what he told me over the phone (but I doubt I went from 27.5 to 19 from his HDR touchup). I'll email him for clarification. ;)
 

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Hi Guys,

I need some advice on here about Projector Screen Size and the type of project I can push myself to get.

Firstly I had my eyes set on the Epson 6040UB due to the high lumens output which can get me a bigger screen size but after reading so many recommendation and claims JVC is superior than the Epson my question are the following:

My Projector can be mounted anywhere in the room even up close to the screen as much as possible.

Would it be pushing it if I went for a Centre Stage XD Screen at 16:9 140 Inch Diagonal? With a JVC 550R or a JVC 750R?

I downloaded the Projectorcentral Ipad Software which calculates the FL Light output what would be the largest size I can go for.

The First Row of seat is placed 14.7 feet from the screen.

The Second Row of Seats is placed 19 feet from the screen.

I would like to get a 140 inch or 150 inch screen if possible. Which projector out of the JVC can adequately power up the Screen with Enough brightness.

At the moment Projector Central Calculation at 140inch screen

JVC X750R Mounted at 4.3 Meters (14.10 feet) from screen it calculates at 31FL Would this be OK

JVC X550 would be 29FL


Would it be ideal for me to jump on to the JVC or look at the Epson?
 

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Hi Guys,

I need some advice on here about Projector Screen Size and the type of project I can push myself to get.

Firstly I had my eyes set on the Epson 6040UB due to the high lumens output which can get me a bigger screen size but after reading so many recommendation and claims JVC is superior than the Epson my question are the following:

My Projector can be mounted anywhere in the room even up close to the screen as much as possible.

Would it be pushing it if I went for a Centre Stage XD Screen at 16:9 140 Inch Diagonal? With a JVC 550R or a JVC 750R?

I downloaded the Projectorcentral Ipad Software which calculates the FL Light output what would be the largest size I can go for.

The First Row of seat is placed 14.7 feet from the screen.

The Second Row of Seats is placed 19 feet from the screen.

I would like to get a 140 inch or 150 inch screen if possible. Which projector out of the JVC can adequately power up the Screen with Enough brightness.

At the moment Projector Central Calculation at 140inch screen

JVC X750R Mounted at 4.3 Meters (14.10 feet) from screen it calculates at 31FL Would this be OK

JVC X550 would be 29FL


Would it be ideal for me to jump on to the JVC or look at the Epson?
My screen size is 135" diagonal (inexpensive elite screen) and I feel its plenty bright with the jvc 750. 140 doesn't seem that much bigger, I think it would be fine.
 

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Anyone know why AVSF attachments put some of my pics sideways... is it a size or dimension issue?? :confused:
Hmm. Let's check this out. Maybe it always converts portrait-mode to landscape?

I took your pic (and scaled it down 2x), then created stretched images 1-pixel wider, 1-pixel narrower, and finished with the same pic in portrait orientation as a check.

Nope... no rotations at all.
 

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Did anyone else almost break/scratch the disk getting it out of that stupid packaging?

So, I spent a little while watching some scenes from Star Wars last night, here's what I noticed primarily:

  1. Colors are significantly/noticeably less vivid, it "seems" like it's more than just a color shift from the glasses (still need to try a calibration).
  2. It's dimmer, even though I go from Low lamp -13 for 2D to High lamp, 0 for my 3D High preset.
  3. There's a significant amount of flicker, specifically in bright areas
  4. There's something unsettling about the 3D/stereo
  5. Contrast is bad
  6. The stereo was "neat" occasionally, like the star destroyer shot posted above
Starting with 5, contrast is just "terrible", I think this is a lot like what Javs is getting at with HDR, I run my 2D config at -13, so I'm surely well over 100,000:1 (plus DI), to get reasonable brightness for 3D, I have to crank everything wide open and my contrast drops like a rock. Backgrounds are gray/hazy, just like we all remember from before we started using JVCs.

Beyond 3 and 4 are interesting, on first glance you'd think they were connected, but I was playing around switching my glasses between 3D and 2D, and oddly everything felt "calmer" when I switched the glasses to 2D. I wonder if there's something about the relatively low switching speed and the fact that they alternate eyes that bothers me...

2, there's nothing I can do about. I'm not giving up my scope screen, shape or size, and that dictates an AT solution, so I'm SOL there.

1, I'd still like to try a calibration and see if I can improve things.

Or if any of you 3D fans have any tips for things I might be doing wrong, here's basically where I'm at:
RS600
X105BT glasses (the 'Mitsubishi' ones)
High Lamp
Iris at 0 or close to it
3D Cinema profile
Custom1 gamma/white balance from my 2D quick calibration (I know the white balance is a little off).

I really wish I could justify, or had the equipment to try out passive 3D with those Omega 3D filters or something, that might solve all those negatives up there. It would also be interesting to check triple flash 3D from a good DLP, but those are just way too expensive.

Try the OEM polarized JVC glasses. I have the Xpand X105 ( same as yours) and can really see a difference in the colors and brightness. Not supposed to be any difference if the screen does not retain polarization but even non polarized screens obviously retain a little. If your screen does retain polarization then that would cause issues, guaranteed .
 

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On your JVC you need to setup a custom slot for 2D BT.709 (regular HD)
See zombie10k's newbie setup post (link in his sig)
if you want 3D you need to set that up too.

and you'll need two different slots for 4K BT.2020, one for HDR and one for SDR.

Every time you make a change in content format,
whether its HD to UHD disc or EDID SDR to HDR
You will also have to switch to the matching user mode on the JVC to match.
Thanks, is bt2020 preloaded or do I need to upload it from the jvc site? Also if I decide I never want to run HDR and just use edid 10 on the Integral, does the pj automatically switch to bt2020 profile or do I need to select it? Same question for red 709 1080p, does the pj automatically switch to a non bt2020 mode? Thanks again

Oops looks like u answered my last question...I need to manually switch the color profile depending on if 709 or bt2020. Correct?
 

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Thanks, is bt2020 preloaded or do I need to upload it from the jvc site? Also if I decide I never want to run HDR and just use edid 10 on the Integral, does the pj automatically switch to bt2020 profile or do I need to select it? Same question for red 709 1080p, does the pj automatically switch to a non bt2020 mode? Thanks again

Oops looks like u answered my last question...I need to manually switch the color profile depending on if 709 or bt2020. Correct?
Correct me if I'm mistaken,
but I think you're in Canada and ordered your X750 from Eastporters in Ontario?

I bought mine from them in late August and it shipped with the latest FW u83.2
and the BT.2020 color profile already loaded.

...and yes, Every color space change requires a different JVC profile be loaded.
 

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Correct me if I'm mistaken,
but I think you're in Canada and ordered your X750 from Eastporters in Ontario?

I bought mine from them in late August and it shipped with the latest FW u83.2
and the BT.2020 color profile already loaded.
Cool, thanks man, I'm In Halifax Nova Scotia...bought mine from Summit hi-fi, recently Jvc authorized...awesome deal...just sold my x500 to Pat in Red Deer...nice fella :)
 

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Cool, thanks man, I'm In Halifax Nova Scotia...bought mine from Summit hi-fi, recently Jvc authorized...awesome deal...just sold my x500 to Pat in Red Deer...nice fella :)

Thats' Awesome, I remember seeing your price in one of your posts
(was the same as I paid, so thought you getting from Eastporters too)

Did you see Pat's post in my thread or did you catch his want ad on Canuck Audio Mart?
I was thinking of directing him to you when I saw you had a slightly older model he was looking for.

:)
 

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Thats' Awesome, I remember seeing your price in one of your posts
(was the same as I paid, so thought you getting from Eastporters too)

Did you see Pat's post in my thread or did you catch his want ad on Canuck Audio Mart?
I was thinking of directing him to you when I saw you had a slightly older model he was looking for.

:)
I saw his ad on CAM looking for one, so I responded...he got a goooood deal :) I don't mind helping folks out when I can...CAM is a great community...
 

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I saw his ad on CAM looking for one, so I responded...he got a goooood deal :) I don't mind helping folks out when I can...CAM is a great community...
Yup,

Here's Pats' post in my build thread http://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-general-home-theater-media-game-rooms/1062642-finally-my-new-house-basement-plans-14.html#post48099401

followed by my suggestion for him to check out CAM
Glad it worked out for both of my Canuck Brothers!

JVC's are an amazing value for Canadians this year
...mine even came with a spare lamp ($500) worked out to about $4k USD all in

:)
 

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Yup,

Here's Pats' post in my build thread http://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-general-home-theater-media-game-rooms/1062642-finally-my-new-house-basement-plans-14.html#post48099401

followed by my suggestion for him to check out CAM
Glad it worked out for both of my Canuck Brothers!

JVC's are an amazing value for Canadians this year
...mine even came with a spare lamp ($500) worked out to about $4k USD all in

:)
Cool! I should be getting my 750 early next week. I'll be checking out your thread in more detail at that time...If I just wanted to use the default thx setting, do I just create my custom slots under that? I don't do 3D so under thx would need 3 custom slots under thx - 1080p, bt2020 HDR, bt2020 no HDR...does that make sense...I may be confused...
 

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Cool! I should be getting my 750 early next week. I'll be checking out your thread in more detail at that time...If I just wanted to use the default thx setting, do I just create my custom slots under that? I don't do 3D so under thx would need 3 custom slots under thx - 1080p, bt2020 HDR, bt2020 no HDR...does that make sense...I may be confused...
I don't use 3D either.

Start with zombie10k's JVC beginner tips to setup a user slot for 2D/1080p

Thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/1434826-projector-mini-shootout-thread-407.html#post39521362

baby steps ;)
 

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Hmm. Let's check this out. Maybe it always converts portrait-mode to landscape?

I took your pic (and scaled it down 2x), then created stretched images 1-pixel wider, 1-pixel narrower, and finished with the same pic in portrait orientation as a check.

Nope... no rotations at all.
Weird I don't get it and I didn't see any settings under my profile or anything, but maybe it's a size issue (thx)? :confused:
 

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Yep!

That one shot with the Star Destroyer, front on, like it was going to poke your eye out! Very, very good 3D.
Boy you guys were SO right... that was Outstanding last night! I had to replay that scene a couple times it felt soo darn real (I even tried to reach out and touch it; or maybe that was my wife!). :p

Only detected some slight ghosting around the daytime tie fighter scenes on Jakoo but other than that is was clean (even put my ClrBlk on High and it looked excellent!).

BTW - I also watched ST-Beyond in 3D the night before and the first 20min or so it looked very marginal but once the crew landed on the planet it was like I was watching a diff movie and looked very good from then on (anyone else notice on this movie it's like they stripped out the LFE track and the bass was a bit underwhelming?!), ;)
 

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Ok so I had a quick sit down last night to just check out the Masciola HDR patterns on the Panasonic finally.

I ended up at:

Gamma D: 12/4/5
Contrast: 12 - clipping around 1100/1200 nits.
Brightness 3.

Zero black floor compromise when tested with the HIDE button on the remote.

Gamma D's dark level had to go back up from 2 which I had previously to 4 in order to make the lower 4 bars of black clipping show up better.

They were there with Dark Level 2 but they were so dim it would be perceived as black clipping with mixed APL content. Now I should also note that those black clipping charts are super sensitive, what you may not realise is the last 10 bars on that chart are literally almost invisible (Bar 10 is actually pretty much where bar 18 or so would be in SDR), anyway, brightness on 3 showed me the 2nd last bar only very slightly, and I mean so slight that your brain almost thinks its not there, but pausing the video I could barely make it out, so hence it was correct, even if it was nearly invisible, its technically still there; this is where you may be getting caught up with having to go to brightness +18 was it you said? I did notice if I went up to 14 it made the bars more visible and closer to how illuminated bar 18 may be in the SDR patterns, but with the HDR patterns these should be extremely difficult to make out.

I ended up on high lamp - 4 on the iris (didnt measure but since I have 33fl in wide open high lamp im guessing its 28fl or so at -4), remember to set the iris to manual, otherwise any iris setting you do chose when HDR signal is detected and the unit is still on Auto 2 or so will be totally ignored and your iris will open all the way.

Lucy in HDR looked pretty good, the Panasonic does a FAR better job than the Samsung here with HDR. I have to admit, it looked closer to being a totally acceptable and natural picture than I ever remember HDR looking. The whole opening 10 minutes of Lucy actually looked excellent, I could have watched the whole film. Black floor was ok, when I ignored the actual fade to blacks I had no real issue with it, looked pretty stable to me.
Ha, yes I have been trying to tell you for a few weeks that Lucy looks excellent in HDR. :p:)

Regarding those patterns - can you explain how to use them to set Picture Tone / Bright / Dark level? Thanks!
 
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