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Ha, yes I have been trying to tell you for a few weeks that Lucy looks excellent in HDR. :p:)

Regarding those patterns - can you explain how to use them to set Picture Tone / Bright / Dark level? Thanks!
SDR still kills it sorry to say :)

Just use 12/4/5 Gamma D settings, anything other than that doesnt look right or crushes blacks, or lifts the black floor. Set your brightness and contrast and go from there...

There is black clipping, which you use to set your brightness level, and white clipping is used for contrast level, that's it! Pretty simple.
 

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SDR still kills it sorry to say :)

Just use 12/4/5 Gamma D settings, anything other than that doesnt look right or crushes blacks, or lifts the black floor. Set your brightness and contrast and go from there...

There is black clipping, which you use to set your brightness level, and white clipping is used for contrast level, that's it! Pretty simple.
Well I have to agree that for some (most perhaps) of the movies SDR+WCG is better. But there are some gems out there like Lucy that look better to me in HDR.

Regarding 12/4/5 - Do you think that is a universal setting that is OK for everyone to use? I was under the impression that it was environment/setup specific. For instance apparently Picture Tone needs to be set according to the size of the screen? I thought you were saying you used those patterns to figure out the idea numbers, in this case 12/4/5. But if that's universal and you already did the work for us, then thank you and all the better. :)
 

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Hey guys, just got a Logitech Harmony 700 and was curious if any of you had knowledge of how to set up quick buttons for "Anamorphic A" and "Anamorphic B"

Hate going into the menus to toggle them and thought for sure there would be a preset code for an easy way.
 

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Got it! Perfect, thanks man! You only have to tell me 4 times, then "most" times, I finally get it!:eek:
Special thanks to both you guys- Asharma (Arun) and Piomaniac.
Arun's a great guy to deal with and Pio's posts I have followed for quite some time. His JVC pics sold me on getting one, as did his 1080 ub pics on my own settings.:D
 

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Well I have to agree that for some (most perhaps) of the movies SDR+WCG is better. But there are some gems out there like Lucy that look better to me in HDR.

Regarding 12/4/5 - Do you think that is a universal setting that is OK for everyone to use? I was under the impression that it was environment/setup specific. For instance apparently Picture Tone needs to be set according to the size of the screen? I thought you were saying you used those patterns to figure out the idea numbers, in this case 12/4/5. But if that's universal and you already did the work for us, then thank you and all the better. :)
12/5/4 is recommended by JVC, (I use 12/4/5) yeah you could go 13 or so if you have larger screen they did say, but I didnt like it, looks overcooked, changing that one top setting affects the black and white clipping point.

Best to leave it pretty much there and then set brightness and contrast properly.

Those gamma settings basically take the straight 2.4 gamma curve if you will and it modifies it into an S curve, tweaking each setting will intensify the S curve on each end (Bright/Dark) or overall (Picture Tone). I used to like Dark Level on 2 with the Samsung since it kept the black part of the S curve quite bias towards good thick shadows which counteracted the raised blacks the Samsung has (Everyone else seemed to set Samsung settings to Contrast +7 and Brightness +3 IN the UHD Player but I hated doing this).

This is random off google but exactly shows how the JVC Gamma D affects regular 2.4 gamma and bends it to work for HDR, by curving the gamma, you can see now you have far more steps in both black and highlights assuming black is the bottom left and peak white is top right. Raising Dark level rasises the S curve at the bottom more towards linear the further you go, which in turn where HDR is concerned raises the black floor. Picture tone takes the whole curve and twists it even further though I cant remember in which direction.

Anyways, stick with 12/4/5 if you have a screen around 120inch diag. And set your brightness and contrast accordingly with the patterns. Its easy to see while looking at this curve how bad, and how much info you lose in the image if you are crushing blacks for eg.

Oh and when you tweak your contrast for 1200nit clipping, you are basically flattening out the very top of the curve inwards towards the middle. You can actually see all this in real time if you run autocal and put it in gamma d and mess with it, and keep running log scans of your gamma, you will see how the S curve works.




I should add that when you adjust Dark level, if you want to see how it works you can have a look when you are checking out the black clipping pattern, it wont necessarily show you more bars as the brightness setting will do, but lets say you see bar 73 onwards with brightness on +2, which IMO would be correct as 69 is almost impossible, what dark level will do if you increase it is it will increase the luminance of bar 73 onwards, make them brighter, it will NOT reveal more bars, but go too far, and this lifts the overall black floor, meaning you are killing the definition of what total black is according to the projector.

Just to give you an idea how how dark this pattern has to be when you correctly set black level, here is the black clipping pattern, this is actually pretty much correct apparently, the photo appears a little darker than how it does in VLC, I can see some bars in the top section in VLC, but here is the screengrab I extracted from the pattern.



Look at the very same picture when I invert it in photoshop, the black clipping detail is definitely there, its just that the last 10 steps in HDR are SO damn dark and has super fine black gradations.

 

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12/4/5 is recommended by JVC...
You mean 12/5/4 (but it is environmental Ric so by all means play around... mine was calibrated by Chad against this setting so I've not touched it on my 110" AT screen)...


This provides information on adjusting image quality suitable for viewing HDR content.
Refer to the instruction manual, select a Picture Mode other than Film or THX, and adjust the following five items.

Gamma setting : D
Picture Tone : +12
Dark Level : +5
Bright Level : +4
Lamp Power : High

* The above settings are recommended for projecting on a 100-inch screen.
To project on a screen smaller than 100 inches, decrease the Picture Tone setting slightly;
for screens larger than 100 inches, increase the Picture Tone setting slightly. And adjust to the preferred image quality.
 

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You mean 12/5/4 (but it is environmental Ric so by all means play around... mine was calibrated by Chad against this setting so I've not touched it on my 110" AT screen)...


This provides information on adjusting image quality suitable for viewing HDR content.
Refer to the instruction manual, select a Picture Mode other than Film or THX, and adjust the following five items.

Gamma setting : D
Picture Tone : +12
Dark Level : +5
Bright Level : +4
Lamp Power : High

* The above settings are recommended for projecting on a 100-inch screen.
To project on a screen smaller than 100 inches, decrease the Picture Tone setting slightly;
for screens larger than 100 inches, increase the Picture Tone setting slightly. And adjust to the preferred image quality.
Thanks Kevin, corrected.

I do use 12/4/5, I never liked the extra raised black floor at 12/5/4, I found the brightness control as far as actually setting the black level at that point became far more sensitive. less clicks on the brightness before the black became more grey. Lowering the Dark level gives you more room to play with the brightness control before black is raised...
 

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Hi Guys,

I need some advice on here about Projector Screen Size and the type of project I can push myself to get.

Firstly I had my eyes set on the Epson 6040UB due to the high lumens output which can get me a bigger screen size but after reading so many recommendation and claims JVC is superior than the Epson my question are the following:

My Projector can be mounted anywhere in the room even up close to the screen as much as possible.

Would it be pushing it if I went for a Centre Stage XD Screen at 16:9 140 Inch Diagonal? With a JVC 550R or a JVC 750R?

I downloaded the Projectorcentral Ipad Software which calculates the FL Light output what would be the largest size I can go for.

The First Row of seat is placed 14.7 feet from the screen.

The Second Row of Seats is placed 19 feet from the screen.

I would like to get a 140 inch or 150 inch screen if possible. Which projector out of the JVC can adequately power up the Screen with Enough brightness.

At the moment Projector Central Calculation at 140inch screen

JVC X750R Mounted at 4.3 Meters (14.10 feet) from screen it calculates at 31FL Would this be OK

JVC X550 would be 29FL


Would it be ideal for me to jump on to the JVC or look at the Epson?
The Epson's brightness falls to well below 1,000 lumen once it's calibrated and throwing correct colors. And just setting white balance is only the beginning of the calibration process. On the other hand, my RS500 throws 1680 lumen fully calibrated with a LUT box. As it turns out it tracks luminance and saturation so well it doesn't even need the LUT box, especially with JVC's auto-cal.

I have a 138" diagonal 16:9 screen and get 30 fL with a full open iris on high and fully calibrated. It has stayed there for about 500 hours so far... the bulb seems to be very stable.

So... I would go for the JVC because you get incredible contrast performance along with that brightness.
 

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The Epson's brightness falls to well below 1,000 lumen once it's calibrated and throwing correct colors. And just setting white balance is only the beginning of the calibration process. On the other hand, my RS500 throws 1680 lumen fully calibrated with a LUT box. As it turns out it tracks luminance and saturation so well it doesn't even need the LUT box, especially with JVC's auto-cal.

I have a 138" diagonal 16:9 screen and get 30 fL with a full open iris on high and fully calibrated. It has stayed there for about 500 hours so far... the bulb seems to be very stable.

So... I would go for the JVC because you get incredible contrast performance along with that brightness.
This is not the case with the Epson 6040, it has amazing brightness even when calibrated though I have not calculated the lumens. But I got 50+fl (way beyond 1000 lumens) on my 110" 1.0 gain screen after calibration in high lamp, in low it was around 35fl with the iris set to 0. But even with this brightness I will rank the RS500 as a much better machine (I own both the 6040 and RS600).
 
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Special thanks to both you guys- Asharma (Arun) and Piomaniac.
Arun's a great guy to deal with and Pio's posts I have followed for quite some time. His JVC pics sold me on getting one, as did his 1080 ub pics on my own settings.:D
Very pleased it worked out for everyone! I've got a lot to learn! Should keep me busy during the cold dark winter!
 

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Finally got my damaged RS500 back from Mendtronix and I have to re-do the calibration process. Could someone please explain exactly what "Reference" represents as a color profile (accessed in User 1-6) and actually refers to? Is this what is affected by the JVC Auto-calibration software? If I use visual calibration (Didney "WOW") instead of software calibration should I work off of the "Reference" profile? Would this then apply those changed parameters (contrast, brightness, color, hue) to all of the other pre-installed picture modes or would I need to do the same "WOW" tweaking to each of the other picture modes, as well? I'm confused a there doesn't seem to be any way for me to make a single (default) visual calibration that would become the baseline for the PJ upon which all of the other JVC pre-sets would be based. Thanks!
 

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PioManiac
and others,
Do you mind sharing your opinion related to palying 1080P BluRay with Sammy in 4k VS Panny in 4k VS Sammy in 1080P + Darbee.

I currently have Sammy and when I the resolution to Auto or 2160, it upscales the image and RS500 gets 4k signal. I compared it with having Sammy play in 1080P with Darbee in chain and liked it better. It seemed to have more depth and also sharpness.

Wanted to ask if you guys had the same experience? Also those who had Sammy and now have Panny, can you please share if upscaling is better?
 

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I've never had the Samsung Player,

I do up-convert all my 1080p Blurays to 4K in the Panasonic UB900 though, and Yes it does a Very good job.
Do you have Darbee to compare the upscale VS 1080P + Darbee?
 

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This is not the case with the Epson 6040, it has amazing brightness even when calibrated though I have not calculated the lumens. But I got 50+fl (way beyond 1000 lumens) on my 110" 1.0 gain screen after calibration in high lamp, in low it was around 35fl with the iris set to 0. But even with this brightness I will rank the RS500 as a much better machine (I own both the 6040 and RS600).
Have you contributed your Shootout comparisons on Zombies thread? Would be a good thing for you to do to help others who don't own both (an apples for apples comparison). :)
 

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No Darbee
Ah ok. I think you should give it a shot. I think you might be surprised how good it works. Only issue is that its only compatible with 1080P. I wish they had a 4k version as well.
 

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X750R Questions

It's been a while since I've followed this thread, so have a couple "catch-up" questions if you don't mind:

1. I'm at about 900 hrs on my original X750R bulb and did a recalbration to see if I needed to open the iris more, and I didn't have to do anything because nothing had dimmed hardly at all (measured with X1Pro and 100IRE pattern). Are others finding that the bulbs are holding their brightness to this extent?

2. Any significant firmware updates made available that I should be applying?

3. Any other key findings/things I should know about the X750R in regards to making adjustments, etc.?

4. Finally, what is the consensus on pairing the Xbox One S as a 4K player with this projector since it is not a true 4K projector (faux-K)? Would I get the same benefits? Is this a good match?
 

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Ah ok. I think you should give it a shot. I think you might be surprised how good it works. Only issue is that its only compatible with 1080P. I wish they had a 4k version as well.
Nah, I think I'm good for now ;)









...and that's just from my center seat with a samsung smartphone
 

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Nah, I think I'm good for now ;)



...and that's just from my center seat with a samsung smartphone
You are killing me mannnn. Guess what !!!! I am going to order one now. Ok so the images you post are jaw dropping. No doubt. Are these 1080P upconverted or 4K images? If its 4K then may be not an apple to apple comparison. I better comparison would be to post a 1080P movie image upconverted (if you don't mind).
Also what screen gain and size are you using and where is the IRIS set?
I'm using a .8 AT screen 130" 2.35. I have my iris set to -5 but obviously don't get that punchy image even though my whole room is covered by black velvet. Today, I ordered SAT 4K which is supposed to be a 1.18 gain.
 
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